Car stalling

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/help-please-car-stalls-put-d-275855.html?highlight=please--car+stalls

This was my original thread (^^), however this time I have no CEL at all. I cleaned the MAF and replaced the air filter. No luck. Had this issue a year ago too. Sticky throttle body? Sticky TPS?

Someone please help me, I am a poor college student with barely any money.

Have you checked the Air/Fuel learning and correction? If you are leaning out or going way too rich it could cause a problem

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Have you checked the Air/Fuel learning and correction? If you are leaning out or going way too rich it could cause a problem

 

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How do I do that? I mean I have a bluedriver connected with data logging. I do have a SPT intake, not sure if maybe that an aftermarket intake could be causing that?

How do I do that? I mean I have a bluedriver connected with data logging. I do have a SPT intake, not sure if maybe that an aftermarket intake could be causing that?

It depends on the software you are using for data logging but it should just be a parameter as AF learning and correction to log. I know if you have btssm its easy to pull up but im not sure what program you are using.

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An aftermarket intake can cause too lean of a condition but not to the point of stalling the car (in most cases) it usually causes problems in the upper ranges of rpm where the car is taking in a lot more air than usual. Do you know if the previous owner got the car tuned for the intake?

 

It depends on the software you are using for data logging but it should just be a parameter as AF learning and correction to log. I know if you have btssm its easy to pull up but im not sure what program you are using.

 

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I am the one who put the intake on, did not get it tuned yet however.

I am using BlueDriver. (https://www.bluedriver.com/)

This may be a dumb question..but could a bad battery be causing this?

Thanks!

In your other thread you stated the mechanic saw low compression in 3 of the cylinders and that you have to let the car go at a loss. Why is this thread going in the completely opposite direction?

Also, if you are crying poverty, might I suggest you select a car that isn't so finicky?

From reading your previous thread, I assume you got the compression issue dealt with?

The website for bluedriver says you can log short and long term fuel trims. You will want to log those at idle and when it stalls. If you log air fuel ratio also you could see what's going on there when you stall.

I haven't heard of cars stalling from a battery, but if you want to get it tested you could take it to a local auto parts store.

I used to have a kia with a bad tps which would stall all the time. You could also log the accelerator and throttle body opening angle at the time of the stall to see if something isn't working the way it should.

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From reading your previous thread, I assume you got the compression issue dealt with?

 

The website for bluedriver says you can log short and long term fuel trims. You will want to log those at idle and when it stalls. If you log air fuel ratio also you could see what's going on there when you stall.

 

I haven't heard of cars stalling from a battery, but if you want to get it tested you could take it to a local auto parts store.

 

I used to have a kia with a bad tps which would stall all the time. You could also log the accelerator and throttle body opening angle at the time of the stall to see if something isn't working the way it should.

 

 

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Yes I got the compression dealt with, swapped head with a low mileage one.

They said my battery and alternator are good, but the battery is leaking quite a bit.

I see autopart stores selling the TPS separately, but did some research and saw you can't replace it on this car..? So confused by that.

Yes I got the compression dealt with, swapped head with a low mileage one.

 

They said my battery and alternator are good, but the battery is leaking quite a bit.

 

I see autopart stores selling the TPS separately, but did some research and saw you can't replace it on this car..? So confused by that.

I think the TPS is integrated into the throttle body so you would have to replace the whole throttle body. I would log the related parameters before jumping to that though.

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If the battery is leaking you should replace it anyway.

 

I think the TPS is integrated into the throttle body so you would have to replace the whole throttle body. I would log the related parameters before jumping to that though.

 

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I will order one after logging but for now I need my car to get back home for break and I will clean the TB tomorrow (if I am not mistaken it is underneath the TMIC?) The battery is under warranty but since it is "good" I have to buy a new one.

The good news atleast is that there is no TCU codes. I was able to borrow my friends laptop quickly to check and there were no codes that appeared. I used FreeSSM.

FYI, it is possible to replace the throttle position sensor on its own. You can find them used on ebay. Otherwise you can buy a new throttle pedal assembly all together. You probably won’t find the throttle position sensor brand new for sale on its own.

Usually issues with your TPS will result in a check engine light for TPS voltage low.

Please don't just throw parts at the car hoping it will fix it.

This is an ej20x swap, I think it's important to note that for those reading. It sounds like you've had p0021 and ocv issues on and off for some time now, you mentioned that earlier this month. The FSM says ocv issues can cause stalling. I think I remember you replacing your ocv's with aftermarket ones and still having issues. I don't want you to take my post the wrong way, I just don't want to see you throw your money away.. I'd look into your ocv's more, and the possible banjo filter behind the t-belt cover. In some other threads I think they say how to check the ocv numbers with something like freessm.

FYI, it is possible to replace the throttle position sensor on its own. You can find them used on ebay. Otherwise you can buy a new throttle pedal assembly all together. You probably won’t find the throttle position sensor brand new for sale on its own.

 

Usually issues with your TPS will result in a check engine light for TPS voltage low.

Hmm and it is weird that I do not have a CEL...I will look into this, I found used assemblies for around $100. Thanks.

Please don't just throw parts at the car hoping it will fix it.

 

This is an ej20x swap, I think it's important to note that for those reading. It sounds like you've had p0021 and ocv issues on and off for some time now, you mentioned that earlier this month. The FSM says ocv issues can cause stalling. I think I remember you replacing your ocv's with aftermarket ones and still having issues. I don't want you to take my post the wrong way, I just don't want to see you throw your money away.. I'd look into your ocv's more, and the possible banjo filter behind the t-belt cover. In some other threads I think they say how to check the ocv numbers with something like freessm.

What do you recommend I use to clean up the OCV? I plan on cleaning the TB tomorrow so might as well clean up the OCV's. I will try my best to get that filter behind the cover out but I am not sure if my skills would be good enough for that.

Oh and I had the code (P0021) beginning of November but it went away by itself after 2 days, which I did find weird. Fingers crossed that cleaning up carbon/debris/dirt off the TB will help.

So I decided to check my oil after a lot of people recommended me to..and good thing I did. See pictures..oil change done about 2 weeks ago with 5W-40 and some people say that it may be too thick and the banjo filter(s) may be causing it to spew out oil.

Edit: sorry, do not know why my pictures always seem to upload weird.

BUMP- @apexi

Stored codes- P0700 & P1718, car runs and drives fine. I drive it slow though even on the freeways. Bought and already got a used TCM. Can anyone, please, chime in and give me some advice? I read that even a loose connection could be causing all this. Oh and if I am not mistaken, is the TCM located driver side firewall? Can anyone tell me what is the best method to get to it?

Thanks again all. Appreciate the help!!

There are just too many possibilities... I'm not really comfortable giving many suggestions, because they'd just be guesses.

p0700 + p1718 caused by bad stop lamp switch?

https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/cel-p0700-and-p1718-solved.607049/

Another guy said LED taillights caused his p0700. It might sound crazy, but those just look like transmission network codes, so anything with the wiring could be funky. I remember in an older post a mechanic said you had some oil leaks, and obviously there are some in the pictures above. The bottom of your transmission pan looks pretty damp, I wonder if there's oil inside a plug/connector causing issues, or some other corrosion.

Is your transmission ground okay? give it a tug on both ends. The pictures in the link below are from my manual transmission. Your firewall connection should be the same, but I don't know where the other end goes to for AT. The Subaru parts diagram makes it look like the top of the transmission.

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2006_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5AT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/_52016_6023012/CORD-ANOTHER/B13-818-01.html

my mt

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5854064&postcount=12

For ocv's, I've heard cleaning does nothing, they have to be replaced. If you swap ocv's and the code stays on the same side, then I'm thinking it's the filter behind the timing belt cover and not the ocv's.

There are just too many possibilities... I'm not really comfortable giving many suggestions, because they'd just be guesses.

 

p0700 + p1718 caused by bad stop lamp switch?

https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/cel-p0700-and-p1718-solved.607049/

 

Another guy said LED taillights caused his p0700. It might sound crazy, but those just look like transmission network codes, so anything with the wiring could be funky. I remember in an older post a mechanic said you had some oil leaks, and obviously there are some in the pictures above. The bottom of your transmission pan looks pretty damp, I wonder if there's oil inside a plug/connector causing issues, or some other corrosion.

 

Is your transmission ground okay? give it a tug on both ends. The pictures in the link below are from my manual transmission. Your firewall connection should be the same, but I don't know where the other end goes to for AT. The Subaru parts diagram makes it look like the top of the transmission.

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2006_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5AT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/_52016_6023012/CORD-ANOTHER/B13-818-01.html

 

my mt

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5854064&postcount=12

 

For ocv's, I've heard cleaning does nothing, they have to be replaced. If you swap ocv's and the code stays on the same side, then I'm thinking it's the filter behind the timing belt cover and not the ocv's.

@apexi thank you for the info and feedback. I can not believe that LED's could be causing this or a bad brake light switch (my brake lights work as they should btw)...so stupid. The OCV issue is fixed, there is no CEL for it nor any stored codes. But I will remove the filters when I get a chance/when it stops raining for a bit.

-bump- - @apexi -

I was checking for possible spots for where the oil can be leaking from and my first thought was checking out the oil cooler one since apparently that is common. The oil filter was dry with no fluid on it, I am not sure if that means the gasket is fine or it still could be faulty?

Update--TCM replaced, TB cleaned, replaced air filter. Oil leak was not a leak, turns out it was overfilled; mechanic drained some oil into a bucket. I will see if it still leaks tomorrow morning. Car is driving, idles better and seems to be no more dip in RPM when I from Park/Reverse to drive.*

Looking into extended warranties and I was able to found one that I am highly considering.*No out of pocket except for paying for the policy.

Looking into extended warranties and I was able to found one that I am highly considering.*No out of pocket except for paying for the policy.

From what I have heard including one of my friends who worked as a mechanic, is that aftermarket warranty companies are always looking to deny repairs. Not going to right mechanic, not getting proper authorization and modifications. My friend had a factory supercharged car that he bough tased that had an existing aftermarket warranty. They figured out that the SC had an aftermarket pulley on it from a prior owned and denied his claim. The mechanic replaced the serpentine belt and it wasn't the factory length. The warranty company invalidated his warranty of his drivetrain.

You have a EJ20 motor in your car, if any mechanic working on the car realizes this or the mods, you may be flushing money down the toilet with an aftermarket warranty.

From what I have heard including one of my friends who worked as a mechanic, is that aftermarket warranty companies are always looking to deny repairs. Not going to right mechanic, not getting proper authorization and modifications. My friend had a factory supercharged car that he bough tased that had an existing aftermarket warranty. They figured out that the SC had an aftermarket pulley on it from a prior owned and denied his claim. The mechanic replaced the serpentine belt and it wasn't the factory length. The warranty company invalidated his warranty of his drivetrain.

 

You have a EJ20 motor in your car, if any mechanic working on the car realizes this or the mods, you may be flushing money down the toilet with an aftermarket warranty.

Thanks for the response...here is a sample contract of what mine would look like. Thoughts on it?

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1CBYlnbXp3KuuS4Sdy4z9vrp3HIT1-2l3