Noname 08 OBXT Rebuild Thread

isn't it cheaper to just buy new ones?

https://www.amazon.com/565cc-Injector-Denso-Subaru-16611-AA720/dp/B074PDPD86

isn't it cheaper to just buy new ones?

 

https://www.amazon.com/565cc-Injector-Denso-Subaru-16611-AA720/dp/B074PDPD86

Nah, did you look at that list of resellers? I've had issues with random third party sellers on amazon. Items not as claimed showing up after a month wait and things like that. Autozone has them for about $100 each and rock auto is $70 each for new. I figured $120 for a rebuild on 4 seemed like a good deal. And I only paid $70 (including shipping out) which was mostly just for piece of mind I suppose.

So I sent my injectors out to deatschwerks for full fuel injector service. I have no idea how long they've been on the car but they are the stock injectors so likely are original. They just let me know that they flow tested them and there was no need for a rebuild and everything looked good. Saved me some money and I know they are good to go now. Pretty happy with that. I always enjoy when someone I've told to do a bunch of service takes care of me instead of just taking my money.

Same experience. Still running them three years later.

Well cleaned the engine bay and put on the group n trans mount and kartboy trans bushings.

The engine crossmember was pretty gross. You basically couldn't see any of the steering shaft and power steering lines from what I think was a mixture of leaking oil and road grime.

The trans mount was a little more difficult. A bit nerve wracking trying to support it and pull that crossmember out. Basically all the bolt heads are nasty. I'm super surprised I didn't round anything and the nuts that go on the trans mount are not usable. I got everything put back together but not torqued.

Anyone know the sizes of those bolts/nuts? I don't see them on the parts diagram on any dealer sites and it's not easy for me to get to a dealer. Thought about just ordering from McMaster carr.

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Call Benny from the last few post in this thread..

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/oem-online-subaru-parts-vendors-list-42243p5.html

or Call the parts guy's here https://www.https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/oem-online-subaru-parts-vendors-list-42243p5.htmlsuburbansubaru.com

Ask for Will or Steve tell them I sent you. They have helped others I have sent to them in the past.

I'll send you a PM.

http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495141002.png

Which bolts are the ones you need?

Most of them are M8 or 10x1.25 I believe.

Well I need 18. But really I want all of them. There was sorta a toss up with some things and I was thinking I might have the engine and be reassembling this weekend but I'll likely be in Rochester and driving back to slc. So I'm just gonna call suburban subaru since I also want to get some hoses for radiator and heater core, pcv, maf, and boost control (which I think is the purge control solenoid valve.)

I need to figure out these though as I'm not sure what is what.

I think we have:

1. Oil to turbo

2. Secondary air pipe

3. Idk is this coolant from turbo?

4. Is this oil from turbo?

The hose that went on 4 is beyond hard and I think cracked through in places.

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Tried to get the shifter bushings installed tonight before not getting to work on anything for a bit. Those things are a bear, everyone makes it seem like such an easy thing to do.

Well after getting everything situated and pulling something out, idk what I think I maybe pulled the shifter down, I think I have the rear bushing upside down. I can't get the bolts to line up properly and that's my only thought. I can't spin it around easily though cuz of the drive shaft and it doesn't want to slide off either, it was a bear to get on. I have some ptfe spray (triflow) for bikes that I might soak it with to try sliding it off so I can spin it around.

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So I've been talking with Will at suburban subaru a bit today, been a huge help, but I'm trying to sort out one last thing.

Looking to replace the boost control solenoid which I think is part 16102a in the diagram below. That appears to lead from the turbo inlet to the turbo. And 16102b appears to lead from the turbo inlet to the fuel injectors. They are both just solenoid valves. Can anyone tell me which is the boost control solenoid or have the part number for it?

Both parts are at the bottom left of the diagram.

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16102a is your bad boy. The other is part of the evap circuit.

Sweet thanks for the confirmation.

Why do you want to change it?

I'm changing lots of things out that maybe don't really need it. I figured I had the money right now (slowly running out though) and I wanted to get it as close to "new car" as possible. Most of the rubber hoses are being changed. Thermostat. Water pump and timing belt only had 20k on it. But I'd rather be certain of what I have.

As far as the solenoid, it's my understanding they stop functioning as well over time. Can gum up and stuff. And it's a $30 part so it's no biggie. Like with the fuel injectors that actually flowed perfectly fine when I sent them for testing.

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Thought about that too but it's a lot more cost for one, and needs a tune. I'll likely run the stock tune for a bit and then a conservative stage 1. If down the road I decide to swap out the dp and anything else, I'd likely do an aftermarket one then.

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I did. I'll give it a look over but I went and checked my receipts and it should be oem. That's good info about that and the hoses. I don't think the ones on the car had any directional arrows but I don't remember. Have there been issues with aftermarket thermostats?

The civic was so simple by comparison. Just 4 hoses and everything easy to reach. I'm a bit anxious about putting it all back together with the 17 hoses going every which way.

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Have there been issues with aftermarket thermostats?

 

 

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Absolutely, it's very common to have an issue with an aftermarket thermostat.

I would not run an aftermarket thermostat on a Subaru.

Yeah. avoid aftermarket thermostats IMO. I just changed the radiators on both of my cars, and went ahead and put brand new OEM thermostats + OEM radiator and turbo coolant reservoir caps. I was a bit anxious at the beginning for some reasons to do the work, but it was really easy after all.

What made it super easy to burp the system was the use of this: https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/spill-free-funnel-606

Get one!

The red arrows on the upper/lower hoses are a bit hard to see but they are there. There is only one arrow printed on each hose, and should be positioned at 12 oclock if that makes sense. It is easy to put these lower and upper radiator hoses backward. Previous guys did this on one of my cars. Almost made a complete mess when the upper hose started to come off while driving

Hmm interesting. All good to know. The civic will run anything, including being extremely low on coolant from bend or to Boise id. Like a five hour drive. Things indestructible. Although I'm pretty sure the head gasket is gone and there's a change the head or block might be warped from all the overheating problems I have with it. It's still driving though, just check the coolant regularly and don't take it on long trips. Like I said indestructible.

This has all been quite an adventure for me. Still enjoying it. Still would do it again. But man I'll never suggest someone get a turbo vehicle unless they want a sports car, or have the money or mechanical ability. My manager wants one of the new ascents and I cringe because he wants something reliable to haul his family of 5 around.

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I had him rebuild my Vf-46. He currently does the vf 40/46 as well as the 39/43/48/52.

He'll do a normal rebuild or for a little bit more he does a rebuild with an inconel turbine/shaft, some polishing, and some clean up and painting to keep it looking nice for a bit. I had him do the better rebuild which should spool up a little faster and he claims is good to 20psi, which I know is more than the stock tmic can handle anyway.

He did a good job and it was fast. Sent lots of reinstall instructions and was helpful with suggestions. Everything everyone here claims him to be.

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He suggested it should be fine on the stock tune but yes I suppose you're correct. My plan had been to run the stock tune through break in and then go get dyno tuned. I don't have a windows computer so an etune seems like a pita

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