Rear sway bar hitting exhaust.

So I was under my car while changing my oil today and i noticed rust dust on my exhaust and a nice shiny part of my swaybar. I let it down on the ground and it was pretty much touching the right side of the exhaust just after it splits. Its got a whiteline RSB,what I'm pretty sure are the avo mount brackets and spt catback. Also its on koni's and koni springs. I feel like that's a relatively common set up,anyone else have this problem? Or fix it? Thanks Gents.

I didn't have the same parts, but I had the same problem. I cut my catback right behind the DP, and welded in a 1/2" piece of pipe just to lengthen the catback and push the mufflers back just enough so the sway had clearance. Problem solved.

Common problem. I have "stock like" suspension. KYB GR-2 replacement struts/shocks on stock springs. Rear whiteline sway, kartboy endlinks and a AVO catback. With the car normally loaded, I have about 2 inches of clearence, but the paint is gone on the sway right above where the bottom of the "Y" sits near the bar. It hits, but it is very minor. Not going to bother with it. You'll have to decide how problematic your issue is.

Would an exhaust wrap help at least prevent the rust inducer bump?

For the time being i slit a piece of 3/4 heater hose and wrapped it around the bar to insulate it some. I was almost thinking that it might have been because its still using stock endlinks. Are any of the aftermarket links shorter? I figure if they're shorter it should bring down the front of the bar and raise the rear enough to clear. Other wise I probably wont worry about it much.

For the time being i slit a piece of 3/4 heater hose and wrapped it around the bar to insulate it some. I was almost thinking that it might have been because its still using stock endlinks. Are any of the aftermarket links shorter? I figure if they're shorter it should bring down the front of the bar and raise the rear enough to clear. Other wise I probably wont worry about it much.

 

Perrin end links:lol: Not shorter, narrower:) Not a great part, but they solve the problem,

Maybe I'll pick up a pair and see,thanks for the suggestions.

For the time being i slit a piece of 3/4 heater hose and wrapped it around the bar to insulate it some. I was almost thinking that it might have been because its still using stock endlinks. Are any of the aftermarket links shorter? I figure if they're shorter it should bring down the front of the bar and raise the rear enough to clear. Other wise I probably wont worry about it much.

 

I like the heater hose idea. Off to O'rielly I go.

I actually bought a pair of AVO adjustable ones so we'll see if it does anything for me,otherwise the heater hose stays haha. I'll update when I find out.

Just to let you guys know I ordered AVO adjustable links from fred beans but they said they were out so I got the Whiteline ones. They don't seem to be much if any shorter than stock like I had hoped. I felt like it wouldnt be enough so i took a die grinder to the hole of the brackets for the sway bar mounts and ovaled them out a bit. Then when i re-installed it i just pushed up on the bar and tightened them up. Problem solved!

I had the same problem and I bought some Urethane exhaust mounts and that seemed to fix my problem.

 

Cusco RSB, Kartboy endlinks, AVO mounts, Rallitek springs on konis, SPT catback with Cobb DP

 

Monk

Update...I noticed mine was rubbing again...

Sorry to hear that. Mine no longer rub as I sold my whitelines and got the hotchkis bars. Did you ever wrap your bar in heater hose just to isolate it a bit?

All you need to do is shift the cutback towards the rear of the car about .5" or so, that will give you enough clearance for no rubbing. I did this on my obxt by cutting and re-welding the mid-pipe to extend it just a touch.

have you tried reversing the end links, i put my on the wrong way and i was hitting, switched them and it was fine.

Heat the spot in the pipe red, not flowing red, but just red where it's hitting and gently push it in slightly to give you the clearance you need. It will have no effect on the flow of the exhaust. Use the nose of a ball peen hammer or something similar that's rounded so it will make a nice smooth slight dent.

I'm having MAJOR swaybar/exhaust rubbing issues. It was ok for a while, but then I installed coilovers. With the drop, it slammed the swaybar into the Y on the exhaust. It's so bad that I had to remove it entirely.

 

It's a Nameless turboback, and it hits directly on the Y - not sure what I can do about it. Any ideas? I can't find any swaybars that are straighter either.

 

 

http://i.imgur.com/dT4VSokl.jpg

Extended Kartboy exhaust hangers. I had the same problem with Whiteline and Nameless making unnecessary music.

Extended Kartboy exhaust hangers. I had the same problem with Whiteline and Nameless making unnecessary music.

 

have those already, didn't make much of any difference.

 

This swaybar and exhaust aren't making music, they are smashed together in a bad way.

 

I'm thinking the only solution is to modify the exhaust.

It's a Nameless turboback, and it hits directly on the Y - not sure what I can do about it. Any ideas? I can't find any swaybars that are straighter either.

http://i.imgur.com/dT4VSokl.jpg

 

I'm thinking the only solution is to modify the exhaust.

 

The problem is in the Ypipe design itself. I went looking at my setup and noticed the Y splits before the swaybar (hotchkis) hence the lowest point of the swaybar doesn't rub against the Y pipe.

 

Nameless

 

TXS

http://turboxs.com/shop/520-thickbox/turboxs-2005-2009-legacy-gt-midpipe-y-pipe-.jpg

have those already, didn't make much of any difference.

 

This swaybar and exhaust aren't making music, they are smashed together in a bad way.

 

I'm thinking the only solution is to modify the exhaust.

 

Did you get all 5?

 

Obviously it's not good music, just straight percussion.

 

Also, if you're low enough you should switch to Legacy length rear end links. I'm surprised you don't have the AVO RSB braces too.

I did not get all 5. I suppose that's a good idea. I have adjustable links, so hopefully those can get short enough. The AVO RSB braces seemed like overkill, no?

CAR: 2005 Outback XT

REAR SWAY: Whiteline with whiteline bushings

EXHAUST: Currently "custom" bent tubing to cans. Soon to be an Ebay special CXRACING 304 stainless setup. TW-CB-Legacy0507

OTHER REAR MODS: Stock sway mounting points welded with angle-iron, Whiteline end links with "LOWES" threaded spacer spacer, suspension lifted slightly with overload King Springs, Whiteline control arms

SOLUTION: Drill higher sway-bar mount points

 

I had also noticed rubbing when I got under the rear to install a new exhaust system. I had removed my old "stick welder" axle-back section that has been on the car for a while. When I went to install my new stainless setup, I realized that the piping was practically against the sway bar and was definitely going to rub and cause trouble. I realized there were two basic categories of options: 1) Move the exhaust; 2) Move the sway bar. After brainstorming a bit and considering exhaust modifications, re-bending, rewelding, and numerous other ideas ....... I decided it was simplest, easiest, and most cost effective to simple change the mounting points of the sway bar.

 

 

The sway bar sits strangely low, in my opinion. My solution was to simply redrill mounting holes and have the sway bar sit about 1.5" higher than stock. No more rubbing. Works fine. I still need to mount up the new exhaust now that I have over an inch more clearance.

 

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