Clutch Replacement advice

I have a 2009 OBXT that I recently had tuned for what should basically be stage 2. (downpipe, TGV deletes, Secondary air delete, Turbo inlet, ECBS)

 

Sadly my clutch is not happy about these changes. It was holding fairly well up until the last revision from the tuner. Now it slips in 5th gear WOT on the highway.

 

From my research it seems that since my car is an 09 I should already have a single mass flywheel. Which is a good thing, but does that mean I can get get any standard clutch for it? I was looking at the South Bend FJK1001-HD-O

https://www.southbendclutch.com/clutches/FJK1001-HD-O-11926/

 

Provided I can find somewhere to buy that clutch is that a good option? or is there something better price to performance wise? I would like the clutch to not be super hard. So I figured the stock style disc was the best plan.

If you're going to stay around that power level, the Exedy Stage 1 Organic is plenty and has great driveability. Mine finally stopped holding only after I switched to E85 and got boost up to 21 psi, around roughly 330 wtq according to VirtualDyno w/o corrections

I'm a big fan of Spec Clutches. Been using them for years.

 

Go to Spec's site and call them, ask for Danny Smith, tell him I sent you. He can sell you a 2+ clutch for your car.

I'm a big fan of Spec Clutches. Been using them for years.

 

Go to Spec's site and call them, ask for Danny Smith, tell him I sent you. He can sell you a 2+ clutch for your car.

 

With the Spec does it include any of the extras needed? Throwout bearing, alignment tool etc like the southbend kit does?

Its a kit, SU203H is the kit. Call them for exact pricing. Talk with them and they will ask the questions to make sure you get exactly what you need.

 

They do have great customer service.

 

Did you get my PM ?

 

 

You'll need to have your FW resurfaced too. that's done by a local machine shop.

 

 

The current Spec 2+ is have is the best one yet, very normal pedal feel, almost stock, but holds lots of torque.

 

I also have the Spec LWFW. I really enjoy the way my wagon drives with the LWFW compared to the 07-09 LGT SMFW I just replaced.

Edited October 29, 2020 by Max Capacity

Its a kit, SU203H is the kit. Call them for exact pricing. Talk with them and they will ask the questions to make sure you get exactly what you need.

 

They do have great customer service.

 

Did you get my PM ?

 

 

You'll need to have your FW resurfaced too. that's done by a local machine shop.

 

 

 

Yes I saw your PM I will give them a call thank you! I did read they recommend resurfacing the flywheel. trying to research a local shop that can do that for me without having to take the whole car.

You should be able to remove the 8 bolts holding the FW to the crank and take it to a machine shop or check with your local NAPA or other stores for who they recommend to service the FW.

 

Tell us where you live and may be one of us can "tell you where to go" in a good way

I live near Kansas City on the Kansas side.

Should be easy to find a good machine shop. I assume there are lot's of farm's around.

I've been happy with the South Bend clutches I've used. Car came with a South Bend Stg1 clutch, and I just installed a Stg2 daily after my engine replacement. I'm coming from the perspective of a spec.B owner with the 6MT, so I'm using whichever clutches are for the STI, which have much higher torque ratings than the equivalent "stage" for the WRX/LGT 5MT. All of the "daily" South Bend clutches use the OEM Exedy disk, but have a custom pressure plate. I've been happy with the pedal effort for all of them, and my Stg1 lasted 60k+ miles with plenty of life left before I replaced it due to a motor replacement.

How many miles are on your clutch? I thought the stock clutch could hold that.

 

 

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I would just get the oem exedy kit, I think that year has the light weight/single mass flywheel, so all you need is the regular oem, EXEDY FJK1001 kit, I believe. For those mods, I wouldn't waste money on an expensive clutch. The only real mod is the downpipe, I don't think that warrants a clutch upgrade. He may be added like 20-50hp. No reason to spend 800 dollars on a clutch when you can get the exedy fjk1001 for 300 on rockauto.... save your money!

 

How many miles are on the blown clutch? That 800 dollar kit uses the same disc, but has an upgraded pressure plate I think. Unless you plan to do more mods, I think the oem should handle it. I think there was a post and discussion about this somewhere on the forums, and the conclusion was the oem exedy kit isn't that bad. I may be wrong but I would look into it before you spend an extra 500 dollars! That's definitely worth the due diligence.

 

What we don't want is to confuse an old clutch just getting beat to death at the end of its life with extra power versus a good clutch not holding the power. If your new clutch went after the tune, then yea, you probably need more pressure from the plate, but if its an old clutch that was already on its way out then its not getting its fair shake, and will lead to spending extra money on a problem that doesn't really exist.

Edited November 2, 2020 by Tehnation

I would just get the oem exedy kit, I think that year has the light weight/single mass flywheel, so all you need is the regular oem, EXEDY FJK1001 kit, I believe. For those mods, I wouldn't waste money on an expensive clutch. The only real mod is the downpipe, I don't think that warrants a clutch upgrade. He may be added like 20-50hp. No reason to spend 800 dollars on a clutch when you can get the exedy fjk1001 for 300 on rockauto.... save your money!

 

How many miles are on the blown clutch? That 800 dollar kit uses the same disc, but has an upgraded pressure plate I think. Unless you plan to do more mods, I think the oem should handle it. I think there was a post and discussion about this somewhere on the forums, and the conclusion was the oem exedy kit isn't that bad. I may be wrong but I would look into it before you spend an extra 500 dollars! That's definitely worth the due diligence.

 

What we don't want is to confuse an old clutch just getting beat to death at the end of its life with extra power versus a good clutch not holding the power. If your new clutch went after the tune, then yea, you probably need more pressure from the plate, but if its an old clutch that was already on its way out then its not getting its fair shake, and will lead to spending extra money on a problem that doesn't really exist.

 

 

 

I bought the car with 132k so I have no idea the real mileage on the clutch. I do know that it is a much heavier feel than my brothers 5mt outback so it might not even be a stock clutch in the car right now. I just want to go with something that is going to handle the power/torque for a while. I figured rather than buy another stock one and run that chance of needing to put another one in the car in a year I could spend a little more and be safe for a little longer. Plus I like to zoom on highway on ramps. I do not need it slipping on me again.

 

Also so far I have not beat on the stock one. Just a few 3rd gear pulls at the tuners request and then one solid 1st-4th pull onto the highway that led to the slipping.

Edited November 3, 2020 by boneskid1

its hard to say, you are in a tough spot, you don't really know whats going on with your clutch. If that clutch has 132k miles on it, then it's hard to say if it's really slipping or dying. But you said it only slips in the 5th gear at wot. I can't recall if slipping in other gears or 5th gear comes first or both.

 

Is your brothers clutch bone stock and original? I duno, i hear so many different opinions on clutch feel so its hard to make an opinion.

 

I guess if you have the cash who cares but if not I would try the cheaper first to see whats up. Depending on the tune, its hard to say without any dyno. Or maybe you have a cheap clutch in there, who knows whats going on.

 

Are you doing it yourself or paying someone?

Edited November 3, 2020 by Tehnation

Yea if you're doing it yourself and it's not your daily driver, pull it apart first and check.

 

 

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I would be doing it myself. I guess I need to get it apart first and find out. I guess I should have mentioned it will slip in the upper end of the powerband in 3rd and 4th. So i am positive it is probably dying. I forgot that slipping does not always mean dying. I messed up there. So I figured going with a stronger clutch was a wise idea since I was replacing it. From the sounds of it on here the stock ones were not holding reliably with a stage 2 setup.

 

My brothers clutch was stock as far as we know. It was stiffer than my VW at the time but not as stiff as this 09. And this OBXT had a master cylinder brace and cobb short throw shifter in it already so I think the previous owner might have had a tune on it at some point. All I really know was it was traded in and the oil analysis I sent in was good.

Edited November 3, 2020 by boneskid1

My thought's on the stock clutch in these cars. All three of my GT Wagon with a stock clutch would slip the clutch when backing up in heavy wet snow.

 

I'm talking about my 1998 GT wagon, 2000 GT wagon and 2005 GT wagon. With the Spec 2+ clutch, that has never happened.

 

I ski most every winter weekend in VT, so I have had plenty of chances to learn that.

I blew up an oem clutch in a matter of a year or so and it was brand new. So take out the old clutch and see if its worn out, if its not and its just slipping, then you will know the answer.

 

if the meat of the disc hasn't worn down to the rivets, clutch is still good. Just looking at the clutch will give you an answer, not sure if you will mind the down time.

 

There was something a while back with china making bootleg exedy clutches which flooded the market. So who knows.

Edited November 3, 2020 by Tehnation

I had a similar experience to max capacity with snow on a brand new clutch and stage 1, but I was under the impression stock should hold stage 2. I'll be a bit miffed to learn it doesn't as I wasn't wanting to replace a clutch any time soon.

 

 

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you run oem clutch, do you have a downpipe or mods and max hp/tq tune?

slipping in the snow? you sure it isn't the drivetrain or one of the differentials kicking in? I thought this cars whole stick was symmetrical awd, put the power to wheels that aren't slipping, might feel like it is. Why would it only slip in the snow? Now i'm really curious max! I'm not familiar with these transmissions. But only slipping in the snow seems like a different problem. Or maybe deep snow is getting clutch wet. Edited November 3, 2020 by Tehnation

Not currently. But hoping to get a dp this or next month and a new e tune.

 

 

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I had a similar experience to max capacity with snow on a brand new clutch and stage 1, but I was under the impression stock should hold stage 2. I'll be a bit miffed to learn it doesn't as I wasn't wanting to replace a clutch any time soon.

 

 

 

 

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Sorry, a stock clutch will not hold stage 2 power. When I first talked with Spec Clutch many years ago, they would only recommend a 2+. I did use a Spec 2 once, it only lasted 50,000 miles in the wagon.

 

slipping in the snow? you sure it isn't the drivetrain or one of the differentials kicking in? I thought this cars whole stick was symmetrical awd, put the power to wheels that aren't slipping, might feel like it is. Why would it only slip in the snow? Now i'm really curious max! I'm not familiar with these transmissions. But only slipping in the snow seems like a different problem. Or maybe deep snow is getting clutch wet.

 

 

Remember I said backing up in the wet snow. Driving forward its fine. I could smell the clutch material when all three cars would slip in the wet heavy snow.

 

I will say on firm snow, its not an issue. Years ago I had to back up on the snow at Sugarbush Ski resort to get my son who had to get an x-ray from a skiing incident. The 2000 GT wagon 5mt backed up about 300ft on frim snow to get him to the first aid entrance.

reverse doesn't have any gearing I believe, its a 1:1 if I recall. So hmm, it is getting the brunt of the force, so that is probably a good indicator.

Ok finally got around to calling Spec. I was sick and had some other shit going on. Super nice dudes. I will end up buying the Stage 2+ kit as it ends up being cheaper than the South Bend and include the Throwout bearing and slave piece. all for $629. I was looking at the stage 3 kit cause its only $575, but I was told it would suck to use for street driving. being that it is a puck style.

 

I need to replace the flywheel bolts I assume. Any reason to get anything other than the factory Subaru ones?