New '07 Spec B owner possible turbo failure.. need an education

Here's another discussion,

https://www.flatironstuning.com/blog/what-is-the-difference-between-an-ej255-and-an-ej257

You'll see he/they don't recommend D25 heads on a ej257, but don't say there is any issue doing it.

Any decent Tuner can adjust the engine MAP for the difference. It just may make his job a little harder, getting the MAP more exact.

It's not like the valves will hitting the pistons. It's just compression ratio. When we had the race Honda with a big turbo, higher compression just made more HP.

Talk to the Tuner who will tune your setup.

You could always's reach out to flatironstuning and ask.

255/257 doesn't matter. it's mostly marketing at this point.

buy a factory shortblock for $1800, get your heads rebuilt. get a new turbo or used one that jmp has worked over, skip the tgv deletes unless its a garage queen, gs tmic is about yer only option these days, other upgrades are money. find a tuner who'll work with you. if you haven't done subarus before and yer not super fussy about cleanliness hire a builder too. there's one in spokane who uses a cleanroom

Can anyone speak to this definitively? The ej257 is generally $1000 cheaper but I don't want fitment or compression/pre ignition issues from getting the wrong short block.

 

Seems to me from what shralp says, on stock fueling and mostly stock bolt ons stock clutch should be ok?

 

Does anyone know what model years wrx and STI have direct fitment with legacy gt and spec b of my model year? Is there a wiki of direct crossover"upgrades"? I ask because, shralp, you mention having a WRX flywheel. Makes me wonder where you can save some cost over aftermarket by going oem of a different model?

I’m at 92k mi. with about half of them at Stg2 on an OEM clutch and it seems to be holding fine. Seems like the majority of people that have issues are drag racing and pushing the OEM limits.

Generally ppl replace the clutch with an upgraded unit when they have the engine out. Putting an oem back in works too. There's threads on the clutch/flywheel debate.

You could always pick a car that's been done and ask the owner for a build list. Most everyone has something that's rare today that was a commodity a decade ago. So getting everything done might be expensive.

255/257 doesn't matter. it's mostly marketing at this point.

 

buy a factory shortblock for $1800, get your heads rebuilt. get a new turbo or used one that jmp has worked over, skip the tgv deletes unless its a garage queen, gs tmic is about yer only option these days, other upgrades are money. find a tuner who'll work with you. if you haven't done subarus before and yer not super fussy about cleanliness hire a builder too. there's one in spokane who uses a cleanroom

See the red, do that. I got new heads, and had the internals done with GSC parts. Go with the GS TMIC. Do everything you can and get all the parts you want and do it at one time. I didn't want to do it myself, so I saved and paid a TRUE subie shop that does rally cars and crazy builds and I am happy.

There is so much done to my car that people do not do. It really sets me apart when I give it the beans next to a modded STI or WRX They never even know I have a strong motor and trans. I look stock with gold wheels. Silent killer

What do you guys know about deleting the oil cooler? A builder in town mentioned it, he said it's just a contaminant catch.

I called flat iron and they recommend going 255, no difference but piston dish size but it's only $90 different so I'll probably go that way for piece of mind.

See the red, do that. I got new heads, and had the internals done with GSC parts. Go with the GS TMIC. Do everything you can and get all the parts you want and do it at one time. I didn't want to do it myself, so I saved and paid a TRUE subie shop that does rally cars and crazy builds and I am happy.

 

There is so much done to my car that people do not do. It really sets me apart when I give it the beans next to a modded STI or WRX They never even know I have a strong motor and trans. I look stock with gold wheels. Silent killer

That's kinda the mystique of the gt or spec b imo, love that sleeper aspect. Unassuming but capable. I have a friend I do long road trips with. I really just want a fun car that I can be in the middle of nowhere with and rely on for the next 150-200k miles.

Another question, is there any market for my short block and blown turbo?

It really sets me apart when I give it the beans next to a modded STI or WRX.

Give it 'the beans'? I usually associate beans with farting. Is this round about way to say you have a fart can exhaust on your GT?

What do you guys know about deleting the oil cooler? A builder in town mentioned it, he said it's just a contaminant catch.

 

 

I called flat iron and they recommend going 255, no difference but piston dish size but it's only $90 different so I'll probably go that way for piece of mind.

Do NOT delete the oil cooler. Replace yours if you think there may be metal in it.

I recommend you not use a OEM clutch, They will not hold a good stage 2 set up as long as a decent aftermarket clutch.

I like a Spec 2+ clutch others recommend Southbend.

If you get a STI flywheel then you can get a good clutch to go with it.

The Spec B flywheel is not the same as STI FW, IMO another one of those stupid things Subaru did.

Do NOT delete the oil cooler. Replace yours if you think there may be metal in it.

 

I recommend you not use a OEM clutch, They will not hold a good stage 2 set up as long as a decent aftermarket clutch.

 

I like a Spec 2+ clutch others recommend Southbend.

 

If you get a STI flywheel then you can get a good clutch to go with it.

 

The Spec B flywheel is not the same as STI FW, IMO another one of those stupid things Subaru did.

Why an STI flywheel?

I believe there are more, better options for clutches, but you need the full STI set up.

Or make sure the clutch you buy is for a Spec B and have your FW turned/resurfaced.

The Spec B FW is different than a STI FW. Yet the input shafts splines are the same.

I believe there are more, better options for clutches, but you need the full STI set up.

 

Or make sure the clutch you buy is for a Spec B and have your FW turned/resurfaced.

 

The Spec B FW is different than a STI FW. Yet the input shafts splines are the same.

Ok

Anyone know about the secondary air delete?

Also, if you do a tgv delete do you cap off the connectors?

Here are some pics

The pic of the car is from the day it died, I went for a drive up to the lake lol, the rest are just tear down pics.

I have the heads off and they are in the shop, I'm about to blow my wad on parts today.....

I think I've landed on a TGV detletes, a new TMIC and injectors at this point. I have a catless up and have read there are not much differences from an aftermarket piece and it seems I can upgrade the rest later pretty painlessly.

Well apparently I can't upload pics now.... some security token thing...frustrating

I think the token is a way of saying, you need to log out of the forum website from the upper left corner on the Home Page where the picture of your avator is, there is a log out button there. Then log back in.

I think that is what I had to do years back.

Apparently right before I bought it the top cap on the radiator exploded, I'm assuming it washed the whole engine bay!!

The water pump and timing set are new. I'm wondering what everyone thinks about reusing the timing belt. It has less that 5k on it, I think even less but that's conservative.

I'm not enjoying the price tag.

Do you guys have any DP recommendations? I went with 1050cc Bosch injectors a new aem 325lph fuel pump, a GS TMIC, might as well keep blowing cash at this point ..... I'm wondering about divorced vs not, catted vs catless, brand differences and anything else that pertains. I had a friend that had an ATC Street stage 2 clutch kit for $450 which was $175 less than retail. I found out I can put an 04+ STI flywheel on this car so I ordered a new one. Ended up going with the BNR 16g Evo turbo, called and talked to him and appreciated the time he spent educating me and the service he provided so went that route for not much more reason than that.

Heads are at the head shop waiting to hear back.

At this point I'm waiting on parts from flatiron, it's all ordered less the misc crap I'll find as I rebuild, coolant and vacuum hoses and what not. I'll post pics as I rebuild and pray I don't eff it up.

Bryan at BNR gave me a contact for open source etuning and I'm debating doing that or going to tier one here. I don't think I want to spend $700 on an access port but am not decided yet. Any input would be appreciated.

Do you guys have any DP recommendations? I went with 1050cc Bosch injectors a new aem 325lph fuel pump, a GS TMIC, might as well keep blowing cash at this point ..... I'm wondering about divorced vs not, catted vs catless, brand differences and anything else that pertains. I had a friend that had an ATC Street stage 2 clutch kit for $450 which was $175 less than retail. I found out I can put an 04+ STI flywheel on this car so I ordered a new one. Ended up going with the BNR 16g Evo turbo, called and talked to him and appreciated the time he spent educating me and the service he provided so went that route for not much more reason than that.

 

Heads are at the head shop waiting to hear back.

 

At this point I'm waiting on parts from flatiron, it's all ordered less the misc crap I'll find as I rebuild, coolant and vacuum hoses and what not. I'll post pics as I rebuild and pray I don't eff it up.

 

Bryan at BNR gave me a contact for open source etuning and I'm debating doing that or going to tier one here. I don't think I want to spend $700 on an access port but am not decided yet. Any input would be appreciated.

Sounds like you're sussed out with some good parts choices. I think you'll like the boost curve of the 16G for what you're doing with the car. As for DP's seems like everyone has their favorite, certainly Cobb and Grimmspeed make great units. There are others as well. I'm a Cobb kool-aid drinker for DP's and have used them on both my cars since '06. I do really like the spec on their cast bellmouth design as they as super beefy. The track car is on its second Cobb DP, with the first one finally giving out, (cat separated), after 9 years of daily driving / track use. Can't complain there. My stg. 2 Outback got a catted Cobb DP a few years back when I purchased the car stock from a forum member and went stg. 2. Note that I've stayed catted, (with both cars). Personal stance, just less douchey for the environment and typically less stinky as well with little to no HP left on the table with a 16G build vs. catless. Divorced bellmouth vs non, meh, haven't seen any real data beyond what seems more like window dressing so I wouldn't make that a huge factor in your choice. If you can find a decent deal off MSRP from any of the premium tier manufacturers you should be good.

As for AccessPort, I've probably already chirped on it. I'm in the "buy the ticket, take the ride" camp. The plug and play useablity with live monitoring / gauges of lots of engine parameters, along with great local tuning support was a no brainer for me.

So I ordered an invidia catted DP cuz it was in stock. Most people I talked to said the same thing....not a lot of differences and most reputable brands are perfectly fine.

I've been reading up on air oil separators. I'm wondering about people's experiences with them and without them. I've read they can help mitigate pre ignition and ringland failure over the long haul. That appeals to me but how much "better' over stock are they really?

Any thoughts would be appreciated. Still waiting on my parts to ship...getting pretty antsy