6MT Master Swap Thread

I have about 1 liter of Extra-S left but that's not enough. Will likely go with Motul, not sure about Redline.

 

 

I took it to RalliSpec in NJ for rebuiuld. There was another Subaru tuning shop in CT that does 6MT rebuilds but I couldn't get a firm quote from them so decided to go with tried and trusted RalliSpec.

You want to sell me that liter of extra S?

You want to sell me that liter of extra S?

Not sure how shipping would work for an open container with oil, very likely not worth the hassle. I bought Motul, which is supposedly great and makes considerable improvements in Subaru MT shifting based on reviews.

Yesterday put fork, clutch cylinder and TOB on the car. Need to fish DCCD wiring through the firewall via main harness plug. Is this the route most people take? On Mike's car he had it go through the new hole in the floor next to shifter boot; I wanted to avoid drilling additional holes.

Also, can the car be driven without DCCD controller connected? Do I understand it correctly that it will be RWD in this case? Or there can be damage done to DCCD or tranny if DCCD controller is not connected?

Not sure how shipping would work for an open container with oil, very likely not worth the hassle. I bought Motul, which is supposedly great and makes considerable improvements in Subaru MT shifting based on reviews.

 

 

Yesterday put fork, clutch cylinder and TOB on the car. Need to fish DCCD wiring through the firewall via main harness plug. Is this the route most people take? On Mike's car he had it go through the new hole in the floor next to shifter boot; I wanted to avoid drilling additional holes.

 

 

 

Also, can the car be driven without DCCD controller connected? Do I understand it correctly that it will be RWD in this case? Or there can be damage done to DCCD or tranny if DCCD controller is not connected?

Man id love to have it if you could ship it. I have about 3 liters here at the house. I could fill my transmission one last time. can you check about shipping it?

You can drive without the dccd controller. The car will still be awd, you just won’t have control over the lockup of the center diff. No big deal

I've been running my LGT this way for quite a while, at least a few thousand miles, maybe 10k. If I spent more time on icy/snowy roads I'd probably put the DCCD controller back in, but I actually kinda like it this way.

Not sure how shipping would work for an open container with oil, very likely not worth the hassle. I bought Motul, which is supposedly great and makes considerable improvements in Subaru MT shifting based on reviews.

 

 

Yesterday put fork, clutch cylinder and TOB on the car. Need to fish DCCD wiring through the firewall via main harness plug. Is this the route most people take? On Mike's car he had it go through the new hole in the floor next to shifter boot; I wanted to avoid drilling additional holes.

 

 

 

Also, can the car be driven without DCCD controller connected? Do I understand it correctly that it will be RWD in this case? Or there can be damage done to DCCD or tranny if DCCD controller is not connected?

you can fish the wires through the rubber boot where the reverse cable passes from the inside to outside of the car. I ran the wires there last weekend and packed the top side of the boot with a little silicone grease to keep water out (and make wire pulling easier). the dccd coil current tops out less than 4A, so you don't need very thick wires...

Question for those with stock STI clutch:

How soft is it and how much travel is there on the pedal? I installed and bled the 6MT slave cylinder today. It seems to work fine, the form moves to what looks like proper range, clutch engages and disengages fine. I rolled the car a little in the garage in 1st and in reverse turning engine with a ratchet. Checked and in neutral it does not move, so I am assuming life is good.

It is just really very soft, and pedal travels a lot before the clutch fork begins to move, almost at floor. My stock 5MT was way heavier and grabbed at much higher position of clutch pedal.

I bled both master and slave, so not sure if this is normal or not.

It’s very difficult to bleed a slave cylinder in the car. Try taking it out as a unit with line and master and bench bleed it. That way you can get the bleed nipples at the highest point to allow the bubbles to work their way out.

From your symptoms it sounds like there’s air in the line. The pedal should feel about 10% firmer than the regular 5sp clutch pedal and grab at the same spot.

It’s very difficult to bleed a slave cylinder in the car. Try taking it out as a unit with line and master and bench bleed it. That way you can get the bleed nipples at the highest point to allow the bubbles to work their way out.

 

From your symptoms it sounds like there’s air in the line. The pedal should feel about 10% firmer than the regular 5sp clutch pedal and grab at the same spot.

Thank you. I ended up taking the slave off the tranny and bled it while keeping the bleeder at highest position. Bleeder itself was clogged too.I took it out and a whole lot of air came out when my son pressed on the pedal.

It is all good now. Clutch is grabbing at the top, all uniform feel to it, just like new clutch is supposed to be.

Mike thanks for checking on the status of this! Car is on the road, still need to put the interior together, hopefully by next week it will be all in place. With rubber boot not bolted down and no insulation there is a whole lot of mechanical noises and whines coming in, but its all good.

Running one of your front CVs as my driver one had boot separated.

I recently put a '16 STI motor in my '05 Outback XT and now I need a new clutch.

I can get the 6mt, R180, and lots of other parts from from teh same source the engine came from.

Does anyone know if there are changes to a '16 6MT that would affect the swap?

Thanks!

I have an 08 spec.B. I had a DCCD center diff added along with an STI front diff. I'm installing a MapDCCD controller. Anyone want to review my wiring notes before I go messing with my harness? I'd like like someone else to look at it. Thanks.

B36 pin 15 (Green/Yellow): Handbrake

B38 pin 9 (LtGreen/Black): ABS/VDC

B38 pin 18 (Green/Black): VSS

B38 pin 19 (Pink): RPM/Tach

B134 pin 5 (Black/Blue): Ground

B134 pin 18 (Yellow/Red): TPS

B135 pin 19 (Green/Red): Ignition

B135 pin 28 (Brown): Brake light

You put a DCCD in a Spec B trans? First I've heard of it. Who did the conversion for you?

Hope someone will chime in on the WH as I'm interested but only have an 08 Spec B trans at this point.

You put a DCCD in a Spec B trans? First I've heard of it. Who did the conversion for you?

 

 

 

Hope someone will chime in on the WH as I'm interested but only have an 08 Spec B trans at this point.

Zach at ZF Design here in Colorado. He builds all the Subaru rally car transmissions. Yes, this is still my spec B trans, with an STI torsen front diff and a DCCD center diff installed. I wanted to keep my 6th gear ratio for top speed. I was getting a grind on down shifting to 4th. I ended up replacing all the synchros (carbon ones for 1-4), second gear, a shift fork, and a couple other things. I don't want to have to ever do this again.

I spoke to iWire yesterday and got some help on the DCCD wiring to get the two wires into the cabin. It will look a lot more professional than what I had envisioned. I am pretty confident now on the pin outs for the ECU. I'll report back once I have it actually tested.

08-12 STI chassis is basically the same. So OEM STS kit C1010FA000 should just bolt on.

Unclemat, can you confirm that the STI 6mt part number is C1010FG600? I think the one quoted is for the 5mt.

I am looking for the Spec b specific C1010AG101 but as noted by others, no longer available.

Do you believe the STI part number will drop right in without additional parts?

I am intending to install the front LSD, STI flywheel and Exeedy stage 1 clutch kit with this shifter. Any oddball parts I should add to my shopping list?

Thanks!

Zach at ZF Design here in Colorado. He builds all the Subaru rally car transmissions. Yes, this is still my spec B trans, with an STI torsen front diff and a DCCD center diff installed. I wanted to keep my 6th gear ratio for top speed. I was getting a grind on down shifting to 4th. I ended up replacing all the synchros (carbon ones for 1-4), second gear, a shift fork, and a couple other things. I don't want to have to ever do this again.

 

I spoke to iWire yesterday and got some help on the DCCD wiring to get the two wires into the cabin. It will look a lot more professional than what I had envisioned. I am pretty confident now on the pin outs for the ECU. I'll report back once I have it actually tested.

Excellent!

I know there's a flat spot on the Spec B and Forester STI 6MT trans where the DCCD wiring would come out of the case on the STI.

Did Zack just drill-out the case and install the wiring and grommet to enable full DCCD connectivity at that spot?

Would be interested to know what that priced-out for everything?

Unclemat, can you confirm that the STI 6mt part number is C1010FG600? I think the one quoted is for the 5mt.

 

I am looking for the Spec b specific C1010AG101 but as noted by others, no longer available.

 

Do you believe the STI part number will drop right in without additional parts?

 

I am intending to install the front LSD, STI flywheel and Exeedy stage 1 clutch kit with this shifter. Any oddball parts I should add to my shopping list?

 

Thanks!

C1010FA002 is the P/N for the OEM Spec B Short Throw Shifter which includes all of this. It is available for $225ish

C1010FA002 is the P/N for the OEM Spec B Short Throw Shifter which includes all of this. It is available for $225ish

 

 

 

That part number turns up as 5mt? It doesn't appear to have the reverse lockout.

Is the idea to Frankenstein my stock 6mt linkage with this one? I already have the Kartboy 6mt STS....looking for the STI linkage.

That part number turns up as 5mt? It doesn't appear to have the reverse lockout.

 

 

 

Is the idea to Frankenstein my stock 6mt linkage with this one? I already have the Kartboy 6mt STS....looking for the STI linkage.

Sorry, copied the wrong P/N: 35031AG020 Spec B specific shifter stay $36.48 here.

The vehicle options this part fits:

• Production Date: 01/2008-04/2009
  
• Fitting Vehicle Options: 6MT
  

Item 35031 in this diagram - clearly shows the 6MT reverse lockout.

Let me clarify.

I'm looking for: C1010AG101 - Short Throw Shifter 6M/T - STI, which is no longer available.

I'm wondering if: C1010FG600 - STI Short Throw Shifter (STI) can be used instead?

Unclemat indicated that the 08-12 STI chassis is basically the same. Just looking for confirmation that this part (C1010FG600) will work.

I have not tried, chassis is indeed essentially the same in front, but it's not impossible that the location of the shifter on 08-12 STI was tweaked wrt to the 05-09 LGT. But I think it's worth a try, I'd be really surprised if they moved the shifter.

One note, the LGT specific 6MT short shifter kit did not come with the "cross joint" that is part of 35041 in the diagram above. 5MT part while very similar, and while could bolt up, did not place the shifter properly. I bought 35041 out of SpecB and transferred over the joint to the short shifter kit (ditching the link/rod itself).

NM - Reading greater than me today. Thought you were looking for the Spec B stay to make the STI STS work, but that's only half of the equation.

As unclemat stated, the 08-12 STI is essentially the same chassis as the 4th Gen Legacy for measure (length) purposes, but that part number does not cross to any Legacy chassis.

It is typically the stay length and the shifter rod length that is the issue, which is why many have just lengthened the stock STI version to get everything to line-up and the shifter itself to play nice with the trim surround.

To make an STI shifter, including (possibly) the STI STS that you reference, work, you'll need the Spec B Stay and the Shifter Rod.

Shifter Stay Complete is: P/N P/N 35031AG020- item 30531 in the diagram above

Shifter Rod Complete is: P/N 35041AG020 - item 30541 in the diagram above

Both are available through a Subaru parts reseller.

So not sure whether you have an STI 6MT shifter already, or don't, but your best bet is to find one and add the Spec B stay and shift rod. Should be able to pickup one on eBay for reasonable price, Or, you could order the one that unclemat suggests and give it a go. I defer to his knowledge on the topic. You could also add in a KB STS while you're adding in the Spec B bits.

Hope that helps.

Indeed, since he will have to buy 30541 anyway (for the "cross-joint"), there is not much risk in trying the STI's assembly. In worst case he will have to buy 30531 as well.

Although to be honest I don't know if the short throw kit's difference is just the shifter itself or if the stay/rod are different as well.