What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

I would consider connecting the oil pressure switch to a relay that closes the circuit when the switch is off so the sensor runs only when switched power is on and the engine has started and it distinguishes that state from turning on the ignition to put the windows up or run the radio or set the clock. If you have an oil pressure gauge, you don't need any other function from the idiot light but if you only have the idiot light, this will still work.

If you're going to go down that path, use the alternator status output signal. It goes low when the alternator is running, and is in the OP connector already.

Good read on that article - looks more or less like what I was told was paraphrased from it. Time delay relay or alternator status signal isn't a bad idea either.

On the "what did you do" front - not a damn thing. Dealer I bought my short block from on Monday promised me it'd be here yesterday, called on Thursday and told me it was only shipping out Friday and may make it by today, and called today to find out it'll be delivered next Thursday. Final weekend before I return to working full time and going to school an hour away from work/home - just a little bit pissed

Maybe I'll go and reclaim the head studs from the motor with the spun bearing

For those that don't read the other threads much.

My wagon's windshield washer stopped working the other day. So I did a google search for the issue and sure enough this forum popped up. I had thought a read something about his issue back in the day... about 2009 or so.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/windshield-washer-relay-locationi-118111.html

My post #21 in that thread. Hope you have a good laugh.

Last night driving the Spec B I noticed it has the same button... LOL

Whelp. Looks like I hicksta'd my initial diagnosis. Started the car to a large cloud of white smoke this morning, just like before. Noticed a break in the hose going from the EBCS to the turbo inlet, along with a ton of oil residue all over the top of the IM, under the hood, IC to turbo hose, etc. Smoke from under the hood is likely oil burning, and not ATF from the PS system (though there's definitely a PS leak too). Or maybe it's a cocktail of oil and ATF that's burning!

So, the question is, is it busted pistons causing excessive blow-by (where the piston crowns and cylinders all looked fine under visual inspection)? Or is it a prematurely destroyed seals on my JmP VF46 Custom, which has under 50k miles on it and no egregious shaft play? Find out next time when I rent a compression tester from AutoZone and figure out the magnitude of my idiocy! :spin:

Whelp. Looks like I hicksta'd my initial diagnosis. Started the car to a large cloud of white smoke this morning, just like before. Noticed a break in the hose going from the EBCS to the turbo inlet, along with a ton of oil residue all over the top of the IM, under the hood, IC to turbo hose, etc. Smoke from under the hood is likely oil burning, and not ATF from the PS system (though there's definitely a PS leak too). Or maybe it's a cocktail of oil and ATF that's burning!

 

So, the question is, is it busted pistons causing excessive blow-by (where the piston crowns and cylinders all looked fine under visual inspection)? Or is it a prematurely destroyed seals on my JmP VF46 Custom, which has under 50k miles on it and no egregious shaft play? Find out next time when I rent a compression tester from AutoZone and figure out the magnitude of my idiocy! :spin:

Join me in this boat of misery, denial and regret

Whelp. Looks like I hicksta'd my initial diagnosis. Started the car to a large cloud of white smoke this morning, just like before. Noticed a break in the hose going from the EBCS to the turbo inlet, along with a ton of oil residue all over the top of the IM, under the hood, IC to turbo hose, etc. Smoke from under the hood is likely oil burning, and not ATF from the PS system (though there's definitely a PS leak too). Or maybe it's a cocktail of oil and ATF that's burning!

 

So, the question is, is it busted pistons causing excessive blow-by (where the piston crowns and cylinders all looked fine under visual inspection)? Or is it a prematurely destroyed seals on my JmP VF46 Custom, which has under 50k miles on it and no egregious shaft play? Find out next time when I rent a compression tester from AutoZone and figure out the magnitude of my idiocy! :spin:

harbor freight oil separators on the crank case lines going to the turbo inlet is the cheap fast test. Do they fill with oil? Piston it is. If not, turbo bearing.

For those that don't read the other threads much.

 

My wagon's windshield washer stopped working the other day. So I did a google search for the issue and sure enough this forum popped up. I had thought a read something about his issue back in the day... about 2009 or so.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread./windshield-washer-relay-locationi-118111.html

 

My post #21 in that thread. Hope you have a good laugh.

 

Last night driving the Spec B I noticed it has the same button... LOL

Max -link doesn't work

I think this might be the full link (edit: yeah, after looking again, it's just the php extension missing from the original link)

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/windshield-washer-relay-locationi-118111.html

Max -link doesn't work

Fixed it.

Thanks.

apaxi, got it right too. Thanks,

Finally got it back from the trans shop. Kept out of boost until the shift shock went away. Then attempted to have some fun merging onto the highway to head home, blew the BOV hose off under boost Thankfully I came with tools and was able to jury-rig it to hold, but I stayed out of boost until I got home. Changed over all the spring clamps to worm clamps. Drove it again today. It’s a beast.

Time to start working on those brakes!

Anyone have experience mounting a Grimmspeed MCB with an Aeromotive FPR? The FPR looks like it’s on top of the mount position for the MCB.

Whoa boy. Went to do a post-mortem on and pull parts from my spare motor, which I thought had spun a rod bearing. Dropped oil pan and pulled baffle/pickup, and saw absolutely no signs of metal. Heads clean as well, and not a single connecting rod wiggled by hand or when pushed through the plug hole with a socket extension.

Turns out, the brand new timing belt tensioner from my Aisin TKF-004 kit failed 30 minutes into initial idle. The motor did not jump time, and the repetitive knocking sound I heard was due to the tensioner smacking against the block as one cylinder misfired slightly due to the vacuum leak I was trying to track down at the time.

Video of the tensioner is here. This has about 30 minutes of runtime on it at idle:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1s7su9QMvE_rS1AupRo2rnCN71HDVrsGI/view?usp=sharing

Will be getting in touch with Aisin or Rock Auto ASAP, not sure what emotion to feel.

Guess I have a brand new RA short block and a set of completely worked B25 heads in reserve now. Part of me wants to just build that motor up anyways and sell this apparently-good longblock - thoughts?

Whoa boy. Went to do a post-mortem on and pull parts from my spare motor, which I thought had spun a rod bearing. Dropped oil pan and pulled baffle/pickup, and saw absolutely no signs of metal. Heads clean as well, and not a single connecting rod wiggled by hand or when pushed through the plug hole with a socket extension.

 

Turns out, the brand new timing belt tensioner from my Aisin TKF-004 kit failed 30 minutes into initial idle. The motor did not jump time, and the repetitive knocking sound I heard was due to the tensioner smacking against the block as one cylinder misfired slightly due to the vacuum leak I was trying to track down at the time.

 

Video of the tensioner is here. This has about 30 minutes of runtime on it at idle:

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1s7su9QMvE_rS1AupRo2rnCN71HDVrsGI/view?usp=sharing

 

Will be getting in touch with Aisin or Rock Auto ASAP, not sure what emotion to feel.

 

Guess I have a brand new RA short block and a set of completely worked B25 heads in reserve now. Part of me wants to just build that motor up anyways and sell this apparently-good longblock - thoughts?

Maybe I'll jump on your misery boat and barter for a longblock

I think that's good news, though. I'm hoping for similar good news in having a blown turbo instead of a blown shortblock. TBD next week, busy this entire weekend.

Maybe I'll jump on your misery boat and barter for a longblock

 

I think that's good news, though. I'm hoping for similar good news in having a blown turbo instead of a blown shortblock. TBD next week, busy this entire weekend.

Bahah all aboard! Hopefully, it's not rings on yours. I don't remember the pedigree of that one exactly - was that Hammerdown's old motor with some work put in?

I posted this in the Suspension forum, but reposting it here since this thread seems to be more active than that forum...

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/koni-insert-jdm-bilstein-bodyi-280195.html?t=280195

Any thoughts?

Bahah all aboard! Hopefully, it's not rings on yours. I don't remember the pedigree of that one exactly - was that Hammerdown's old motor with some work put in?

Nope, it's the motor that came in my car originally. HAMMER DOWN's motor was a boondoggle in hopes to get the car back up and running for cheap, but it turned out to have a blown head gasket, and upon disassembly, also found it had a cracked valve.

Initially, the car would burn oil on cold starts and after idling for a while then getting back on it (i.e. every autocross run besides the first of the day would result in MASSIVE amounts of white smoke from the exhaust). No appreciable smoke out the exhaust while at WOT near redline, no misfiring/knocking and power and boost also showed no degradation. There was a bit of oil in the IC and IC/TB hose, but nothing on the exhaust side of the turbo. From my diagnosis, along with the thoughts from everyone else I'd talked to, it seemed that the issue was worn valve guides/seals. So got the heads rebuilt and put them back on the original shortblock with ARP head studs. While it was apart, the pistons/block deck was cleaned, and I didn't see any cracking of the piston crowns. Cylinders also all looked good, no scoring, etc. The turbo also seemed normal: shaft play was as expected (minimal radially, none axially), and no oil on cold/hot side.

My assumption at this point is that one of the ringlands between the two compression rings or between the 2nd compression ring and the oil ring is blown. So it's not visible without pulling the pistons. Obviously, I should have done a compression test before pulling the original motor, but once I bought the spare motor from HAMMER DOWN's car, I wasn't really worried since I was planning on doing a full build of my original motor anyway.

Maybe I'm not remembering correctly, but I thought a bad gas cap can trigger that EVAP cell as well?

It might be worth a new gas cap to find out, thanks for the idea.

Huh. I'd be surprised if it's the actual tank if you're not seeing any leaks or signs of a leak on the tank itself. P0456 is an EVAP leak code for a small leak' date=' as far as I could find on a very quick google search. That could mean anything from the gas cap to the EVAP system lines, to the canister, to the tank itself. It's a pain to find, but it sucks to go for the most difficult/expensive to replace part first. IF you're in the DC area, what shop did the diagnostic? In that area (I used to live in Balto), I'd trust Andrewtech Automotive for anything Subaru. Probably worth a second diagnostic opinion if the first swing at it is going to cost you $1000 at your current shop.[/quote']

 

I'm thinking its just the lines, but it's so hard to tell. My wagon is in Milwaukee, there's really no good specialty Subaru shops around, which is surprising, there's a lot of Subaru's in WI. There is a local place near my parents house. One of the tech's there has a nice WRX wagon. I'm going to get a second opinion from him.

 

The body shop had to cut a hole in a frame rail to get a nut that broke loose that holds the sub frame to the body. They patched the hole but that's not something I could have done.

 

This is mostly what I'm afraid of. I barely have time to do this if everything goes smoothly. The chances of that happening on a 15 year old northern car are quite low and I don't want to spend 3 days on my back trying to F around with it.

 

 

 

On a related note I gave my garage a turbo upgrade to try and help save my car. I don't actually live in WI anymore but my car spends a good 300+ days a year in my garage there. It's tough to tell but the garage is built into a hill and the first bottom 4 feet are in the earth. This leads to a temperature differential between the inside of the garage and the outside which makes a lot of condensation. My guess is the failing brake lines last year and now this gas tank issue are related to that. I should have done this 8 years ago but hopefully both my car and truck will benefit. The truck I don't have an issue with but the wagon is so low to the ground I think the air gets trapped between the concrete floor and the car, causing these issues. The car does get driven in the salt occasionally but pretty sparingly. The car isn't going to last forever but I'd like another 5 years out of it before it's complete beater status. Still runs and drives amazing, I just need to try and keep it dry.

Nope, it's the motor that came in my car originally. HAMMER DOWN's motor was a boondoggle in hopes to get the car back up and running for cheap, but it turned out to have a blown head gasket, and upon disassembly, also found it had a cracked valve.

 

Initially, the car would burn oil on cold starts and after idling for a while then getting back on it (i.e. every autocross run besides the first of the day would result in MASSIVE amounts of white smoke from the exhaust). No appreciable smoke out the exhaust while at WOT near redline, no misfiring/knocking and power and boost also showed no degradation. There was a bit of oil in the IC and IC/TB hose, but nothing on the exhaust side of the turbo. From my diagnosis, along with the thoughts from everyone else I'd talked to, it seemed that the issue was worn valve guides/seals. So got the heads rebuilt and put them back on the original shortblock with ARP head studs. While it was apart, the pistons/block deck was cleaned, and I didn't see any cracking of the piston crowns. Cylinders also all looked good, no scoring, etc. The turbo also seemed normal: shaft play was as expected (minimal radially, none axially), and no oil on cold/hot side.

 

My assumption at this point is that one of the ringlands between the two compression rings or between the 2nd compression ring and the oil ring is blown. So it's not visible without pulling the pistons. Obviously, I should have done a compression test before pulling the original motor, but once I bought the spare motor from HAMMER DOWN's car, I wasn't really worried since I was planning on doing a full build of my original motor anyway.

Woof that truly blows. Best of luck getting it up and running.

Woof that truly blows. Best of luck getting it up and running.

As you said, misery and denial No regret for me, though. As much as I'm sick of working on the LGT, I do somewhat enjoy having been through the process of pulling apart a block, splitting the case halves, etc., just for the education.

If it does turn out to be the shortblock, the car's getting parked at my parents' place for the next year or two while I hoard enough cash to do a proper reliable, medium/high (400-500whp) build along with all the extra chassis goodies I still want ('15 STi steering rack, new endlinks in particular).

Today I decided to start looking for a spec b project. I’m looking for a clean lower mileage 08-09 legacy spec b w/ a bad transmission / synchro / gear or clutch for a reasonable price. Something that is in great overall condition but needs a new transmission.

Please keep me in mind if you know of any or see any for sale. I’d greatly appreciate any leads sent to me, or feel free to give my username / contact info to the person looking to sell. I have cash in hand and ready to buy ASAP.

Thanks in advance

Anyone interested in an 06 LGT with a manual? A friend of mine has one with a new shortblock but it doesn't run right and he's trying to get rid of it...thinks it might need a head gasket. Asking $1300.

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I'm trying to recall if I've been a spec B with only a bad transmission. Cars with bad motors are a dime a dozen but it's rare that the 6 speed is the reason for failure. Good luck!

I believe I’ve seen a couple with bad synchros before (4th gear in particular) if I remember correctly. I may also consider ones with a bad engine depending on price, condition, whats the problem and exc. Though I would highly prefer to find one w/ a bad trans for what I plan to use this car for. (Just a reliable, nice clean garaged weekend car)

I appreciate the kind words on the search. I am already a little antsy to find one.

Finally drove Christine (she’s almost an Eleanor now) to work today. Hard to find places to really open it up in DC/NoVA traffic. But it was a blast. Looking forward to the drive home for more than one reason now.

That feeling is what we are all here for!