What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Did the same on my recent OB 3.6R after a first ever for me, 7500 mile OCI. . Had the bottle available and forgot to prep for it. By the time I was done with the drain, the realization that I hadn't drawn a sample finally dawned on me.

I've been sending samples on every oil change since I got the built motor. According to the samples the engine took approximately 15k to break in.

My beloved 05 Momo steering wheel has started to fall apart. Not an urgent fix, but it steps up the timeline on getting steering wheel controls going...cause why not.

I am not sure if anyone has put the cruise and audio controls from an 09 into an 05 (I did zero research) but I started looking on my own since I have an 09 wheel from the junk yard. Looks like I just need to swap out clock springs (easier said then done) and add a harness in the column to the head unit for both the illumination and audio controls.

 

The cruise control resistance readings are 1:1 with the dingle dongle that the 05 has, so that's sweet!

 

Also the wiring diagram looks like the wiring for the airbag is also 1:1 aside from one wire's color coding (but copper is copper, it sees no color)

 

If anyone whats me to make a more detailed thread when I am done let me know. This will also open up the aftermarket options of wheels that still accept an airbag.

Something is rattling around in my mind that the 08 plus steering wheel spline count/size was different than the 05 to 07s

:spin::spin:

 

So, got it all back together.

All the fluids in, double, triple checked everything.

Go to start it up, starts up fine.

Idle learn is going ok.

Notice a little leaking from the back of the engine.

Is coolant.

Is ok, prob from one of the heater hoses.

Nope.

No leaky hose.

It's leaking from the lower starter bolt...

 

 

How can it do that?

 

Sit down kids and let me tell you a story.

Looks like a previous owner replaced the starter at one point (or pulls the engine).

Then puts it back together.

The lower starter/bellhousing bolt is shorter than the others.

Someone puts in one of the longer ones and keeps going until it shears off

Then puts a placeholder bolt in with some kind of thread sealant.

 

I come along and find the sheared bolt.

No problem I say, I'll just drill that out and we'll be good to go.

I never considered that they might have buried the old one all the way to the end.

So drill until I get to the end of the "bolt" and have a little gap.

I totally expect this.

Tap it to rethread and all is well.

 

Fast forward to today.

When I realize that coolant CAN come out of that bolt hole because the "gap" I drilled into is a freaking coolant passage behind the bolt hole.

Curious as to the depth, I go measure the bolt hole on the old engine.

Mark it on a screwdriver.

Insert the screwdriver into the "new" engine.

Sure enough, it goes a little more than 1/2" further. :mad:

 

Trying to decide if I can try to use either some jbweld or gasket maker in the hole ahead of the bolt to seal up the passage.

 

Either way, I think I'm about done for the day...

Sweet mother of mechanics everywhere, that has got to be frustrating.

I've been sending samples on every oil change since I got the built motor. According to the samples the engine took approximately 15k to break in.

Same on the 05 LGT. This was my first OCI on the 14 OB on Subaru's 5W30 Idemitsu Full Synth, and the first opportunity to do a health check on the internals. Probably be November before I can check it again.

What are you all using for Subarus Niglide Grease?

Never heard of that. What's it for?

Something is rattling around in my mind that the 08 plus steering wheel spline count/size was different than the 05 to 07s

I put an 09 wheel in my 05, no issues here. I also redid the cruise control to the wheel buttons

I've been sending samples on every oil change since I got the built motor. According to the samples the engine took approximately 15k to break in.

I've been doing the same and this is reassuring.

Well I never really mentioned it because I was sad but I had to sell the spec b for a few reasons but ended up picking up a SUV to tow around toys, go camping etc. We are still a two subaru family and now the wifes FXT is the fun turbo car since we dont have to take it camping etc anymore so we put a bigger turbo, brakes, suspension etc.....I do miss getting into a LGT everyday though but after 4 legacies I suppose it was time to change it up a little.

I'm still on here all the time and will continue to be, the 4th gen LGT is still the best looking, best performing all around *comfort,power potential, sleeper status* car I've ever owned and I still tune a couple a week so I still get to play.

Dave

...barley...

Spent the morning ordering brake parts:

- Sil-Glide

- OEM seal kids for rebuild

- ATE TYP200 fluid

- new shoes

- DBA T2 rotors (100% wanted slotted bling)

- Hawk HPS

Shout out to Ken @ KNS - super helpful over the course of the week in tracking down parts. Prices are more than fair.

Did the same on my recent OB 3.6R after a first ever for me, 7500 mile OCI. . Had the bottle available and forgot to prep for it. By the time I was done with the drain, the realization that I hadn't drawn a sample finally dawned on me.

Yeah, my Blackstone kit was sitting on the passenger seat. Awfully enough, I let the drain plug fall into the oil pan bc I had a fumoto valve sitting right next to the UOA kit too to install.. I realized what I'd done as soon as I let the drain plug go, lots of swearing.

Ordered a remain starter to pick up tomorrow.

If I’m going to try to seal the hole/bolt with right stuff, I don’t want to pull the starter again anytime soon.

Also found that NGK actually makes coils for this car!

I didn’t know this.

Ordered them off rock auto.

I asked COSMO if they could/would test their coils if I sent them back to them.

I can’t do it and want to know once and for all if those coils work right or not.

I've had pretty good luck with the Cosmo Racing coils.

I’ve mostly read good things, but I have 2-3 that seem to be spitting out misfires.

I’d like to know if I somehow found a bad batch or something else happened.

But it’s one of the few things I can’t actually test in an isolated way.

Cosmo doesn't actually make the coils form what I can tell, there is some chinese OEM that makes them for them with red cases. They aren't actually even as good as OEM, but they are "good enough" and much much cheaper. So I doubt that they'll be able to test them for you.

Full disclosure, I'm running Cosmos coils right now as the whole set was the price of the single replacement I needed.

It's not terribly hard to drive the coils our cars uses. The trigger lead is low current, so you can build a driver with an Arduino and TO-92 size mosfet. Hook up varyable spark gap (2x screws in a pvc pipe works) and see if you can jump your (gap x dynamic pressure, ~15mm).

You can also turn up ignition dwell if you want to push up spark energy. I did it for a while when I was running NA plugs (shop installed wrong ones) with success. Info here: http://dtec.net.au/Ignition%20Coil%20Dwell%20Calibration.htm

Never heard of that. What's it for?

It's what's recommended for lubing the clutch pivot shaft and slave cylinder to pivot shaft contact point on the 6MT. I think the Conoco Phillips Red #2 is a substitute, but don't want to buy 10 tubes.

It's what's recommended for lubing the clutch pivot shaft and slave cylinder to pivot shaft contact point on the 6MT. I think the Conoco Phillips Red #2 is a substitute, but don't want to buy 10 tubes.

For stuff like that, I don't overthink it and just use my tub of general purpose high-temp grease. From my understanding, there's nothing special about the metals in use, and they're not in particularly demanding conditions, so any suitable lubrication (i.e. grease, and not oil) is fine.

It's what's recommended for lubing the clutch pivot shaft and slave cylinder to pivot shaft contact point on the 6MT. I think the Conoco Phillips Red #2 is a substitute, but don't want to buy 10 tubes.

I use Super Lube, it's heavy duty, marine application; I figured it's probably good for this.

Cosmo doesn't actually make the coils form what I can tell, there is some chinese OEM that makes them for them with red cases. They aren't actually even as good as OEM, but they are "good enough" and much much cheaper. So I doubt that they'll be able to test them for you.

 

Full disclosure, I'm running Cosmos coils right now as the whole set was the price of the single replacement I needed.

 

It's not terribly hard to drive the coils our cars uses. The trigger lead is low current, so you can build a driver with an Arduino and TO-92 size mosfet. Hook up varyable spark gap (2x screws in a pvc pipe works) and see if you can jump your (gap x dynamic pressure, ~15mm).

 

You can also turn up ignition dwell if you want to push up spark energy. I did it for a while when I was running NA plugs (shop installed wrong ones) with success. Info here: http://dtec.net.au/Ignition%20Coil%20Dwell%20Calibration.htm

If I can carve out some time, I might try something to test.

I have a set of Cosmo, OEM (88k), and NGK (incoming)

I had the mod to up the voltage from the alt slightly (~.7v) that the WRX guys like to keep the voltage from falling too far.

It would be in the mid 14s most of the time (peak upper 14s), I'm wondering if it did something to the Cosmo coils.

I've pulled the mod and returned to the standard voltage as I'm wondering if that messed with things.

It’s possible the higher voltage cooked them, but the ECU coil dwell table is scaled up to 16V IIRC so should have compensated.

When are you seeing the suspect misfires? Idle/cruse or high load/RPM?

It’s possible the higher voltage cooked them, but the ECU coil dwell table is scaled up to 16V IIRC so should have compensated.

 

When are you seeing the suspect misfires? Idle/cruse or high load/RPM?

Yes. Both.

It started about 3-4 months ago.

I would have misfires on a cylinder out of nowhere.

Could be at idle, could be under load.

They could come and go in 4-5 seconds or last for a couple minutes.

They slowly got more frequent and lasted longer.

Until I would have to stop for 4-5 min and reset the ECM.

In the last month, reset would no longer clear them.

Near the end it was in Cyl 3.

I swapped the coils between Cyl 3 and Cyl 1.

It followed the coil to Cyl 1.

The coil was 2 months old.

I swapped out the coil for another one (I have six Cosmos because of troubleshooting)

It stayed in Cyl 1 even with a different coil

Then Cyl 4 started doing the same thing at that time.

That's when I caved and bought the 88k OBXT for the engine, tranny, interior, etc.

When I first started the 88k engine in my LGT with the Cosmo coils, it was missing a cylinder (rough) even though it wasn't formally registering a misfire yet. I had to shutdown because of the coolant leak, so I couldn't drive it yet.

I just want to figure out root cause if possible and if the Cosmos are ok or not. I'd rather not toss them if they aren't the reason, and I don't want to sell them to someone if they are messed up.

Edit: Cosmo just replied and said they can test the coils if I pay shipping both ways. I'm going to ship them off just to see what they say, I'll probably still try to test them myself later.

If I can carve out some time, I might try something to test.

I have a set of Cosmo, OEM (88k), and NGK (incoming)

I had the mod to up the voltage from the alt slightly (~.7v) that the WRX guys like to keep the voltage from falling too far.

It would be in the mid 14s most of the time (peak upper 14s), I'm wondering if it did something to the Cosmo coils.

I've pulled the mod and returned to the standard voltage as I'm wondering if that messed with things.

Can you elaborate on this? (I had the mod to up the voltage from the alt slightly (~.7v) that the WRX guys like to keep the voltage from falling too far.)

Thanks