Perrin Steering Damper Lockdown

:lol:

http://perrinperformance.com/i-22342620-steering-dampener-lockdown.html?utm_source=PERRIN+Retail&utm_campaign=e8e15beba9-retail_steering_dampener_lockdown&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_879fefc334-e8e15beba9-421246733

Probably although I think it may just introduce harshness into the steering. The damper is not the what keeps the steering from being more communicative.

 

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I have something similar in my 91 truck. Basically a sold steering shaft, I really don't any notice any harshness when I added it, but then again it's 1991 vehicle so it's already a little crude.

Also uses a steering box instead of a rack and pinion. So all that linkage takes a lot of feel away too.

I visited Perrin Performance this morning. I now have one of these in my possession, but I won't be able to install it until tonight (it's a really easy install - your grandmother could probably install it in 10 minutes - I just have no tools at work). The guys at Perrin came outside and did a really quick test fit and it appears to fit just fine.

 

I'll let you guys know tomorrow how it is.

And subbed....

im pretty sure it just reduces vibration. that clip they show is probably when the wheel is turned full lock and they are jerking the wheel some more still.

Bringing the discussion from what did you buy to here.

 

The steering lockdown doesnt fit our cars, well, it may fit but requires the motor out or complete steering rack removal to install. Not an easy job, but rather a very complex job.

 

Err, you can fit your entire arm into the space where the dampener is and have plenty of room to spare. Just need to pop off the engine cover. Is there some complication into actually getting the part into the steering rack? It seemed pretty easy, but I've yet to really make an attempt.

 

I just took a peek under my hood and it looks like we do have the dampener and it also looks like this would take about 3 minutes to install. Plus if it's sitting just right people can see the PERRIN logo on it. Blang blang!!

 

So, I actually opened the box at lunch and did my own test fit.

 

There's two bolts, one 70mm long and one 60mm long. They have a hex head, and the appropriately sized hex key is included. I still think the install is really easy, it's just tedious and may take a little time.

 

You have to thread the 70mm bolt through first and tighten the two halves of the lockout together. This will take some time using the supplied hex key because the two halves of the lockout need to slide into place (which is a very tight fit) in between the dampener and area of the steering rack it is in. I bet it'd go much faster if you could use a drill with the appropriate bit, but I don't know if that could be problematic for the threads on the bolts and the threaded half of the lockout. Once the lockout is snug against the dampener assembly, you unscrew the 70mm bolt and install the 60mm bolt.

 

Now, where GTEASER's observations may come in is just prior to installing the lockout. Perrin's instructions say to loosen the steering rack above and below the dampener, but do not remove it. I'm pretty certain the bolt above the dampener is accessible, but I wasn't able to see a way to get at the bottom bolt (admittedly, I didn't spend much effort looking for a way to access it). Also, I do not know what loosening these bolts provide you, and Perrin's instructions do not indicate why these bolts need to be loosened. I'm hoping that the two halves of the lockout would come together more easily (because it will take a lot of force and a lot of turning that hex key once you're really tightening things up), but I can't be sure.

subbed. I'll add the little info i have (which everybody already knows) the cobb brass shifter bushing that is for the 15' wrx fits our cars with the addition of washer from subaru (i'll edit it into here later)

subbed. I'll add the little info i have (which everybody already knows) the cobb brass shifter bushing that is for the 15' wrx fits our cars with the addition of washer from subaru (i'll edit it into here later)

 

Well, there is this thread for all things non 5th gen Legacy that fits on a 5th gen Legacy: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/parts-other-models-years-fit-our-5th-gen-143255.html

 

I assumed this thread was specifically for the steering dampener lockout.

I'm guessing loosening both bolts might give you a little extra wiggle room. If you can't find a way to get to the bottom bolt, I'd still at least loosen the top one

Yeah.... Unfortunately for me, the torque wrench I have has a minimum setting of 30 ft/lb and the Perrin instructions indicates the steering rack bolts should be torqued at 17.4 ft/lb.

If it isn't a precision part with a bearing I usually use a ratchet and get it snug enough I am sure it wont come out. I do the same with spark plugs I would rather feel what I am doing through the wrench than trust the torque setting blindly. If you are that concerned about right torque you should get an inch-lb torque wrench for the small stuff.

I have a tendency to over-tighten things, so I don't mind attempting to adhere to the torque spec in the instructions if only for guidance.

 

I picked up a needle type torque wrench at Sears on my way home, so I have everything I need to install this. I just need some free time during day light hours to get it done. So, it'll most likely be this weekend.

If you hold the ratchet by the head instead of the handle you can remove your leverage or most of it, that helps.17 lb ft is not tight at all, more like snug. but a torque wrench is good too. Needle type? If it is the old style you might be better off just using the ratchet alone, but good luck.

I know some people who sware by the old needle style torque wrenches.

I know some people who sware by the old needle style torque wrenches.

 

Needle style torque wrenches are be extremely accurate but they can be difficult to read in some tight situations.

I know some people who sware by the old needle style torque wrenches.

 

I know people who have sworn at them plenty lol. It is a tool so quality is what is most important they aren't all created equally. I still would go with a click style or digital one for stuff that really matters. This is not one of those cases.

It is a tool so quality is what is most important they aren't all created equally.

 

This is most true. low quality torque wrenches will always be just that, low quality.

I have 2 3/8 drive torque wrenches. One does up to 250 inch pounds and the other 20 to 110 ft lbs. Takes care of everything but engine builds.

 

Anyway... Get this lockout installed already!

 

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so does the part fit/work or not? Looks like plenty of room to get in there and install... as for where the conversation has gone, I don't think I'd try and get a torque wrench in there - I'd just tighten it up (for a low value, I'd just use a small ratchet so that I didn't have too much leverage) - I tend to use the torque wrench where either the absolute value of the torque or uniformity across multiple bolts is important.

Anyway... Get this lockout installed already!

 

I need a new 6x70mm bolt.

 

Pro tip: don't use a drill to do this.

Balls!

take pictures of your install please..

I had the day off today so I found some time to install this. Took me about 30-40 minutes in total. The box comes with:

 

• 2 halves of the lockdown
  
• 1 6x60mm bolt
  
• 1 6x70mm bolt
  
• 1 M5 hex wrench
  
• Tube of thread locker compound
  

 

I'd also highly recommend patience every time you drop something and have to scoot under the car to retrieve it, a ratchet with a really long extension, a 12mm socket, and a M5 or size 30 hex head socket attachment. I can't imagine having to install this with just the supplied hex wrench, so I strongly suggest having the appropriate sockets to make your life easier. The Perrin directions also indicate using a torque wrench on some bolts in the steering rack, so use your own discretion on that.

 

This is where you'll be working:

http://i61.tinypic.com/w2c1v9.jpg

 

The Perrin instructions say to first loosen the bolts above and below the steering rack dampener. I was able to only access the top bolt. You'll need a 12mm socket. Make sure to simply loosen it and not completely unscrew the bolt. Installing the lockdown might be easier if you can loosen the bottom bolt as well.

 

http://i60.tinypic.com/hwfqcg.jpg

 

Now, you need to attach the lockdown. Here's a little better picture of the dampener.

 

http://i58.tinypic.com/2rgks5l.jpg

 

In this picture, the sides of the dampener are facing up/down. Since the sides of the dampener is what the two halves of the lockdown are going to hug, I'd turn the wheel so that they are, generally, facing side to side to make the initial installation a little easier. Then using the 70mm bolt and the lockdown half that includes a recessed area for the bolt head, place it in the dampener. In the picture above, there is a small opening at the bottom of the dampener structure where it meets the puck in the steering rack.

 

http://i61.tinypic.com/2yowilj.jpg

 

This is where the bolt will go, passing through the dampener. Once you get the first half and the bolt through, you can generally kinda just leave it there if the dampener sides are facing the sides of the car. This lets you get the second half of the lockdown (this side has the threads that the bolt screws into), place it on the other side of the dampener, and hand-twist the bolt to at least get a few threads in where it won't fall out when you turn the wheel.

 

Once the bolt has been thread just enough to prevent the second half of the lockdown from falling out, turn the wheel so that you have a direct line to the bolt head. You can use the supplied hex wrench to tighten the bolt, but this thing is going to be a bitch. Essentially, this bolt is used as a sacrificial lamb in order to slide the lockdowns into a space that is extremely tight. There's going to be a lot of forces on this bolt, and it will bend. Using the hex wrench is really difficult, so a socket with a M5 or size 30 bit is ideal. I used a size 30 star bit, but I would go for an allen hex bit instead.

 

You need to tighten this bolt until the two sides of the lockdown are touching the dampener.

 

http://i62.tinypic.com/2zznqtw.jpg

 

Because of how much force is needed when screwing the bolt in, it was difficult for me to identify when to stop tightening. This resulted in lightly damaging the star bit I was using. Having more material like in a hex bit would probably be a better way to go for this.

 

Once you've got the bolt as far as it will go and the two sides of the lockdown are touching the sides of the dampener, it's time to unscrew and remove that bolt. Then take the shorter 60mm bolt and install it into the lockdown. You can add the thread locking compound prior to installing the bolt to help prevent it from loosening. I did not, but I may use it when I double-check things in a couple of days.

 

Then rotate the wheel a bit, and then re-tighten the bolts on the steering rack. Perrin's instructions say to torque them to 17.4 ft-lbs.

 

http://i58.tinypic.com/iwpz53.jpg

http://i59.tinypic.com/2mcv8s8.jpg

http://i61.tinypic.com/fuqgkw.jpg

http://i57.tinypic.com/6eohvk.jpg