What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

White 09 B is super rare. I think it was 19 manufactured in white. There have only been a few on the forum, a few confirmed wrecked, and the rest unaccounted for.

This one is hidden in this guys garage somewhere around me... I've only ever seen pictures of one other white spec b near me

I changed out my MAF about two weeks ago, trying to chase down an apparent boost/vacuum leak. Been driving it and pulled LVs from btssm today.

 

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I suppose it was the MAF, after all. As a reminder, I had it changed about four years ago.

 

LV is looking way better, but I'm getting a lot of timing changes in the load table. Is this normal? IAM is still down at 0.688.

Looks like your ECU is perceiving reasonable knock at low RPM and low/moderate load. Potentially tune-related, potentially loose heatshields, brackets, or other false-knock-inducing rattles, some combination of that, etc. Try watching your feedback knock and fine-learn knock in real-time while you're driving and see if it consistently triggers at a specific condition (tip-in, tip-out, when you hit bumps while you're on throttle, at a certain RPM and throttle input consistently, etc.). It thinks it's knock free at the higher loads (positive numbers in green), and if those green numbers get large enough in enough cells, then the IAM will increase and by another chunk and the process repeats. However, since your IAM is at 0.6875, I suspect it started at 0.5 after the ECU reset, went up to 0.75 since it didn't see enough knock, then saw enough knock at that IAM of to drop down to 0.6875.

If that was a bunch of mumbo-jumbo, read up the "subaru knock control strategy explained" topics on the RomRaider forums to really understand what your ECU is doing. Knowing how that works will really help you diagnose things like if your car is really knocking and you have tune or mechanica issues, or if it's just a stray false knock caused by loose metal rattles, faulty knock sensor.

Too hot today to get the JDM lamps on the car. Instead, decided I’d disassemble, clean, and scuff for paint a set of Hella Supertones that were given to me. They were in rough shape: super dirty and covered in thick road grime, bracket rusted and finish peeling, and wiring beyond saving.

Now I need to decide what color to paint them. Not a fan of red, though they are going on a red car. Considering using the same paint I used for my Brembos.

(And I know, these can be ricey. But they were free.)

Finished the conversion harnesses for my facelift JDM headlamps. Opened them up and flipped the shields. Buffed and polished the lenses. Now just need to get them on the car.

Do you have the schematics for those? Did you use any relays? JDM wires are much thicker gauge than USDM from what I recall. I have two sets sitting on the shelf for years and haven't gotten around to getting the harness done and swapping them in.

Do you have the schematics for those? Did you use any relays? JDM wires are much thicker gauge than USDM from what I recall. I have two sets sitting on the shelf for years and haven't gotten around to getting the harness done and swapping them in.

I can pull the harness out to take some pics and notes tomorrow. I found the connectors from Ballenger Motorsports, they were Toyota part numbers.

I can pull the harness out to take some pics and notes tomorrow. I found the connectors from Ballenger Motorsports, they were Toyota part numbers.

If you could list the part numbers that would be great.

If you could list the part numbers that would be great.

JDM Headlamp to car 90980-11034 -> merged w/90980-11015 to connect to USDM harness on car

Hopefully these photos make sense. The pin numbers on the connectors don't match up exactly with the Subaru pin numbers, so I've labeled them as best I can. Make two of these harnesses (connections are identical for each lamp, no need to move any wires around.) I kept the DRL wires separate and attached a generic two-pin connector to them. Eventually I'll wire a relay to ACC+ to turn them on with the car.

So bing, bang, boom, and Bob's your uncle. Now you have a plug and play harness to connect your JDM face-lift lamps to your UDSM car.

Heads installed and sealed up as of about 9PM tonight! Most of the hard stuff (read: stuff that's new to me) is done! Only "new" thing left that I forsee is insulating the ELH I have (using fiberglass shielding instead of heat wrapping, etc).

The box underneath the motor is 18qt of Valvoline VR1 10w30 for break-in (shop recommendation). Things are moving along!

 

Heads installed and sealed up as of about 9PM tonight! Most of the hard (read: stuff that's new to me) is done! Only "new" thing left that I forsee is insulating the ELH I have (using fiberglass shielding instead of heat wrapping, etc).

 

The box underneath the motor is 18qt of Valvoline VR1 10w30 for break-in (shop recommendation). Things are moving along!

FWIW, I did fill the engine with oil while it was on the stand after timing belt was installed. I then turned the engine slowly by hand with my 1/2 inch handle, that allows oil pump to work itself in through the engine. You can feel when the oil starts hitting engine internals, engine starts to turn much smoother.

I have the crankshaft adapter for 1/2 inch handle. Let me know if you want to borrow it, I can mail it to you and all I ask for is to mail it back when you're done.

I picked up a spare 1-gallon sprayer and some barbed fittings to use as a DIY pressure pot (Underdog made a thread about it) that I'll be using to prime the motor on the stand. Will probably crank it with the plugs out as well for good measure before putting the plugs back in and restoring the fuel pump fuse.

Here's the DIY priming tank thread: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-oil-system-priming-tank-214760.html?t=214760

Here's the DIY priming tank thread: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-oil-system-priming-tank-214760.html?t=214760

Make sure you slowly crank the engine as you go; not all the oil galleys are perfectly lined up and can be blocked from flow.

Had a fun day today, other than waking up early. My best friend bought a 2007 Spec B, so we brought it back to my place here. 2 other friends showed up with spec b's. Tysparks81 showed up at my place just after 8am to borrow my garage for the day so you can't see him in this picture.

But... 4 Spec b's in my place at once, I wonder how many dealerships had that:lol:

Started the suspension update today.

I can't say how grateful I am that this was a Cali car before I picked it up a number of years ago.

Next to no rust makes working on her so much easier.

Basically 2hrs from start to finish to replace both front struts and LCAs.

Going from JDM Spec B to Konis w/ Epics and aluminum LCAs.

Mevotech LCAs with ProForged ball joints.

Pulled the stock LCAs out, pretty sure the bushings were shot...

Not entirely sure how what was left was still holding on.

I picked up the ball joint puller because I had read so many horror stories.

Never took it out of the box.

Disconnected everything else, then just had to hit the LCA a couple times with a rubber mallet and it fell right out.

Checked on my shifter linkage as it felt a little strange and found that one of the nuts in the linkage was working itself loose. Little blue locktite and the shifter is nice and tight again

Working underneath, I realized that one could tell where I invest my hobby budget (and it's not in the stock market...)

Hoping to tackle the rears tomorrow, drive around a week for it to settle, then go get an alignment.

210k on the clock. Oil change was done last week along with the removal of exhaust manifold shields that were loose. That stock piping sure is small.. [emoji28][emoji28] anyways, I installed some LED fog lamps, not expecting much due to them being so cheap..

I have a random stutter though. I know it's cylinder 1. I have a spare coil somewhere that I can swap in and see if that takes care of it. I posted about it in the regular 4th gen sub-forum. I also recently changed that injector too..

Scotty

Looks like your ECU is perceiving reasonable knock at low RPM and low/moderate load. Potentially tune-related, potentially loose heatshields, brackets, or other false-knock-inducing rattles, some combination of that, etc. Try watching your feedback knock and fine-learn knock in real-time while you're driving and see if it consistently triggers at a specific condition (tip-in, tip-out, when you hit bumps while you're on throttle, at a certain RPM and throttle input consistently, etc.). It thinks it's knock free at the higher loads (positive numbers in green), and if those green numbers get large enough in enough cells, then the IAM will increase and by another chunk and the process repeats. However, since your IAM is at 0.6875, I suspect it started at 0.5 after the ECU reset, went up to 0.75 since it didn't see enough knock, then saw enough knock at that IAM of to drop down to 0.6875.

 

If that was a bunch of mumbo-jumbo, read up the "subaru knock control strategy explained" topics on the RomRaider forums to really understand what your ECU is doing. Knowing how that works will really help you diagnose things like if your car is really knocking and you have tune or mechanica issues, or if it's just a stray false knock caused by loose metal rattles, faulty knock sensor.

This is really great info, going to read up on that. Hopefully I can get this car into a happy place sooner rather than later. Thank you!

Working underneath, I realized that one could tell where I invest my hobby budget (and it's not in the stock market...)

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Hoping to tackle the rears tomorrow, drive around a week for it to settle, then go get an alignment.

That underneath is a thing of beauty though

Put the rears in along with a set of rear adjustable trailing arms.

Couple hours again, nothing really dramatic.

Took it in to Firestone (lifetime alignment starting to pay off).

The tech spent over two hours doing everything he could to get it where I asked.

We ended up at -1.3 camber in the front and -1.2 camber in the rear with zero toe all around.

That's the limit of the parts I have right now.

Don't get to see this angle very often, so picture for the sake of one.

I'm considering the Megan Racing MRS-SU-0511-02 that replaces the upper rear control arm with the bumpstop flat.

I'm not sure the impact of swapping out the stock part because none of the aftermarket options for that arm have a spot for the chassis bumpstop to hit.

Can someone chime in who has gone with an adjustable rear upper control arm here?

Does it not really matter? or should I avoid it?

I'd like the option to get the rear neg camber closer to -.7 or so.

Stock it was -1.5, so it's improved, just not as far as I think I would like.

What's your exhaust tip situation?

They are resonated tips of a Stromung exhaust, the sound is a wonderful thing, even with the ELH.

Today was probably the first time ever that I've heard it driving up from a distance as I've been the only driver for the last three years.

Put a big smile on my face.

Been quiet on the car front. But on Friday my harmonic balancer gave up and died. Separated at the rubber ring area. 165,000 was too much. Ordered a Grimmspeed lightweight one and threw it on. I assumed the project would be difficult but took less than 30 minutes to remove and install. Threw on a couple new belts as well.

Might be placebo, but I swear it's easier to rev match now when downshifting.

Re: the upper control arms with the bumpstop flats - I *think* they are intended for people who already have coilovers' date=' since coilovers have bumpstops built in. Maybe the logic is that if you are extreme enough to need an adjustable upper control arm, that you need the adjustment because you are so far from stock height (via coilovers). I don't know if that was the thought process for those exact arms, but I've worked with aftermarket companies, and for many of them, it's common for them to be working with the understanding that the customer would already have coilovers.[/quote']

 

Ah, that makes sense.

Don't have the coilovers, just trying to fix limitations of factory setup.

 

The tech was worried about using the rear lower lateral arm for adjustments as he said he would rather pull than push.

But, I just realized that I'm actually trying to get more positive camber in the rear so replacing the rear lower lateral arm would actually be "pulling" to pull the bottom in to add a little positive camber.

 

I'll drive it for a while, then decide if it's something that I'd like to add to improve the ability to dial in the rear alignment.

Been quiet on the car front. But on Friday my harmonic balancer gave up and died. Separated at the rubber ring area. 165,000 was too much. Ordered a Grimmspeed lightweight one and threw it on. I assumed the project would be difficult but took less than 30 minutes to remove and install. Threw on a couple new belts as well.

 

 

 

Might be placebo, but I swear it's easier to rev match now when downshifting.

I really need to do this before I end up in the same situation.