What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

I’ll try to check but I assume it can’t pop out if that 14mm bolt is holding it in place right? I’m just tired of self diagnosing this issue. I might just take it to the shop and pay the man and forget it. I used to like to take turns at a good amount of speed given my suspension setup but the creaking noise scares me when I’m driving in any direction other than straight.

Pop out entirely - not likely unless you're going real hard. My bolt was "snug" but not tight enough because I could take a pry bar and pop it in and out a good 1/8-1/4 of an inch. When doing a visual and bolt check it was over looked. Wasnt until my third visual it was actually sitting out of the socket enough to notice, then confirmed with the pry bar. Since tightening that and the endlink bolts I dont have any more unusual sounds.

oh no. Link?

Didn't spend time looking for the link,sorry but I found the same thing when I had the warning light checked, they told me it was the left rear wheel sensor.

Yeah, the axle shield was hitting it.

Thinking about it, the link may be in the DIY forum

Just wanted to toss this up here since this is one of the most visited threads on the site these days and never like to see anyone miss out because they didnt get notified of a special going on.

We normally wait for holidays to run specials, We figured we would change it up this time

10% OFF August Etune special. Prices are live on the website.

Thanks for the continued support, I love this community.

Dave

38 pages since my last post on here, dayum.

The first one I bought, ended up being virtually useless for anything other than storage... It's a box old box right now. So I'm probably going to keep the very few good parts and scrap it. Nobody's going to want a salvage title in that bad of a shape.

So I bought a second one, fully equipped and runs with no hiccups! 2000CAD$ for this one.

Same year, same options, same everything save for the cigarette smell and it runs.

Unfortunately, the project to restore the first one is proving to be far more than I can afford and I can't keep 3 cars around on my budget so it has to go. Currently waiting on the scrap prices to go up, and that'll give me more time to salvage good pieces.

I'm not too sure what to do with the next one as of right now, I'm looking for mods that can potentially save me some gas while I'm studying, maybe? If you have any suggestions other than getting another car...

Cheers!

The new one.

The glorified box and the runner.

Finished cleaning the engine bay. Never good enough but I had to call it.

Ordered all of my valvetrain components today. Have a plan in place for my fuel system. Things are coming together (though I suppose that means my bank account is falling apart lol).

Last night I swapped the Mamba wastegate actuator spring from the “10PSI” to “14PSI” spring. And checked the figment of the Turbosmart twin port actuator that’ll eventually replace it.

Spring change

IWG75 TP Fit test

I’m getting the sneaking suspicion the $110 wastegate open box actuator is going to cost more than the $170 new one once this gets done... it didn’t come with the side fitting and the rod it a bit long before the threaded portion starts. The actuator rod I had bent for the Mamba won’t fit ether as the Turbosmart is a higher percussion deal for sealing and the shaft diameter is slightly different. Will likely need to build a mounting spacer to get more rod length to preload this thing.

Anyway, on the Mamba actuator, the “14psi” black spring is far from 14psi. It’s actually acting just like the old spring, but with the boost curve offset vertically by 1.5psi. As in at IWG boost it now acts like a 10psi spring then creeps up to ~14psi at redline.

It did pull the curve up at 100%WGDC just enough that I can run a flat 17psi under EWG control. Not optimally by any stretch, but it’s getting there

Turbo is stubbornly not wanting to flow more than 300g/sec and VE is going off a cliff above ~6000rpm. So the smaller EWG uppipe May be restricting things more than the EWG is bleeding off. Which is odd with such a small turbo.

Finished cleaning the engine bay. Never good enough but I had to call it.

 

Good looking results. How did you clean it? This is something I’ve been meaning to do in 8 years of ownership. There’s a reason I’ve never posted a pic of my engine bay

Good looking results. How did you clean it? This is something I’ve been meaning to do in 8 years of ownership. There’s a reason I’ve never posted a pic of my engine bay

Start with detonation and ringland failure. That will motivate you to get the engine out of the way lol.

Brake clean was very helpful for all of the nasty grease and caked on oil on the crossmember and inside the transmission bell housing. Only used two cans, but I would recommend having a lot more. It’s easy to go through and it makes life waaay easier.

Paper towels to kind of wipe things down after that.

Used a wire brush and scotch bright pad to scuff all of the oxidation off of things.

Nylon brushes I used for dusting in all of the nooks and crannies where the wire brush would scratch things or be too aggressive. Some soapy water in a spray bottle to clean up some of the plastic items. Then just lots of time and effort.

There are definitely places where I learned things that would have made things easier and more time efficient (broad strokes everywhere, then get to the fine details. Work from the top down.) Also there are probably more tools and supplies that would help. I am sure there are some detailing pros that would be a lot more efficient with it and even end with a better result.

But, I am satisfied with it.

Another thought about removing all that protective grease on the paint in the engine bay.

Now its easier for rust to start.

Good looking results. How did you clean it? This is something I’ve been meaning to do in 8 years of ownership. There’s a reason I’ve never posted a pic of my engine bay

From harbor frieght:

steam cleaner

large tarp

several nylon brush sets (the ones that look like big toothbrushes)

face shield

rainsuit or tyvek suit

sonic cleaner (cleans brushes, small parts, nuts/bolts, etc)

from grocery store:

gallons of distilled water

Dawn soap for sonic cleaner

Process:

pull motor

put car on jackstands

spread tarp under engine bay (you don't have to, but liquified grease is really hard to get out of concrete)

start at bottom with steam cleaner (heat rises) and brush.

Work your way up the engine bay to the top

While the car is on the jackstands, do the entire undercarriage

There's a thread on here about using PAR15 to coat the undercarriage parts

Notes:

1. use a nylon scraper to remove the big chunks of goo first

2. the more items you remove from the engine bay the easier it is to clean

3. patience is a must with steam let it do the work and everything comes off easily. Rush it and damage results.

4. The tarp & rainsuit are throwaway after you are done.

5. You need to dump the water occasionally from the tarp. I used a homedepot bucket and let it sit outside to evaporate the water. The bucket is throwaway when done.

Rant:

if you're lucky, at some point, the CV boot failed and no one noticed. Cue protective gear, as that grease gets everywhere when liquefied.

@utc_pyro

Where did you get that mounting bracket for your wastegate actuators? Removed from an oem actuator?

I wish i had a spare oem actuator to do that with...

@utc_pyro

 

Where did you get that mounting bracket for your wastegate actuators? Removed from an oem actuator?

 

I wish i had a spare oem actuator to do that with...

It’s the OEM BNR actuator bracket with the actuator cut off. Later non-vf40 based BNR turbos are slightly different than everything else so I wasn’t able to find another bracket that fit. The standard Subaru ones were quite different, as were the Mamba/Kinguana style ones.

Another thought about removing all that protective grease on the paint in the engine bay.

 

Now its easier for rust to start.

I know, and that is definitely a concern here in MN.

But I bought some fluid film to put down and the car will not really be driven in the winter. Need to fix a couple rust spots still, but engine work is the focus at the moment.

Will you be swapping it yourself or using a shop?

Going to have a shop do it. Good friend owns a body shop and the mechanic they use is going to put it in. They’re a transmission shop, so I’m confident that it will be done right. Plus the tech said he’d replace every seal on it that he can replace without breaking down the case. (And shockingly, they’re going to warranty it. Even with me supplying the part.)

Going to have a shop do it. Good friend owns a body shop and the mechanic they use is going to put it in. They’re a transmission shop, so I’m confident that it will be done right. Plus the tech said he’d replace every seal on it that he can replace without breaking down the case. (And shockingly, they’re going to warranty it. Even with me supplying the part.)

5MT swap?

5MT swap?

I wish. I priced it out and it was almost double what it’s going to cost me to just put another 5EAT back in it.

Best thing I found for cleaning battery terminals and battery cable connectors is cleaner that's used for PVC plumber tubes, the purple colored one.

This is what I use for cleaning battery terminals and posts. (Actually I've worn out a few)

Is there a properly conductive grease than that can be used on connectors? I thought the idea is to keep them clean and dry.

Been using this on all my battery terminals for over 45 years. Never had any problems with corrosion or cranking/starting troubles. Cover all contact points, and all exposed terminal and post metal to keep it from oxidizing.

My 2005 legacy ran out of gas today[emoji108] well i got the last hose to turbo it

Sent from my subie cave’s pc

1997 impreza GT: sold

2002 impreza WRX: sold

2005 forester sti: on jackstands

2004 legacy base: turbokit in da trunk

Another thought about removing all that protective grease on the paint in the engine bay.

 

Now its easier for rust to start.

In spirit of the thread... I topped off my oil. Exactly 1 quart in 1500 miles. I'm now finally noticing my driving habits reflecting my oil usage. On another note, while checking said mileage I noticed I also needed an oil change.. that'll be next week.

Also, I had the headlights cleaned and looking close to new-ish again! Best 40 bux I ever spent!

Scotty

Rebuilding brake calipers - compressed air not doing the trick to push out the pistons. Can't get a good seal. Any tips?

I use one of these, with the rubber tip.