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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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(Yesterday) Installed Cortex EBC for the external waste-gate, and replumbed the rest of the boost control system. Wiring was straight forward (everything you need is behind the gauge cluster and accelerator petal), but the plumbing was a huge pain.

 

The BNR 16G turbo has a tiny boost reference banjo that dos t have quite enough flow for all the things I want to hang off it. Banjo is M8x1.25 thread, and I found a 1/4” barb kit on eBay that fit. Unfortunately the OEM coolant line interferes with this, and the ghost of Baldwin Automotive struck again with another stripped Allen head bolt in an inaccessible location. I had to cut the bracket holding the line to the turbo with a rotary tool.

 

Then a 10mm wrench was sacrificed to Subaru gods. I was using it to hold back the PCV hoses in that area , and it decided to drop whenever I walked to the back of the car to get the new banjo. I can’t see it anywhere and it didn’t fall out the bottom. I just hope when it does decide to come out it doesn’t get jammed in something important.

Edited by utc_pyro
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Finally got around to getting a '09 fob/key working for my '05.

Cut open a spare key (carefully), removed the transponder and placed it in the new key.

Programmed the remote.

Then went to three different places to have the key cut, none of them would do it because the key was chipped (even though I had taken care of that).

Finally found a local locksmith that simply cut the physical key for $2.

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Noticed the beeping associated with locking/unlocking the car from the fob is dead.

 

You may have inadvertently turned it off, I've done it before myself. Look on the back of the FOB and there should be instructions to get it working again. Hold down both buttons for 5 seconds?

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You may have inadvertently turned it off, I've done it before myself. Look on the back of the FOB and there should be instructions to get it working again. Hold down both buttons for 5 seconds?

 

Huh, that's new to me. On my spec.B, I could change that through the in-dash nav system. Didn't know there was a way to do it through the keyfob itself!

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It's still there at times, just INCREDIBLY faint. It seemed to not feel up to beeping right after a monsoon rainstorm.

 

YOU HAD ONE JOB JUST BEEP ONCE FOR LOCKED TWICE FOR UNLOCK

 

Ok so it's two jobs. But still

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It's still there at times, just INCREDIBLY faint. It seemed to not feel up to beeping right after a monsoon rainstorm.

 

YOU HAD ONE JOB JUST BEEP ONCE FOR LOCKED TWICE FOR UNLOCK

 

Ok so it's two jobs. But still

 

You could check the connections to the unit itself under the passenger headlight. Or reach up through the fog light under the bumper with the weather guard folded out.

 

FYI: it has a constant power with an alternating ground, so that ground connection is probably rusted or something. Alternatively the unit itself is just going out but I suspect a bad ground because you mention the rain.

 

I used to have accessory LED lights wired up to the beeper using a relay off that ground so the accessory lights would come on every time it beeped. Ripped it out a few months ago because the lights took a crap.

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Hello, I just now joined and have a very specific question about a 2009 Outback problem regarding the shifter lock solenoid, but I can't seem to find where to go to ask my question? Please pardon my ignorance, this is my first ever forum attempt...

Leo

 

Make a new thread using this link here: https://legacygt.com/forums/newthread.php?do=newthread&f=10

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It's still there at times, just INCREDIBLY faint. It seemed to not feel up to beeping right after a monsoon rainstorm.

 

YOU HAD ONE JOB JUST BEEP ONCE FOR LOCKED TWICE FOR UNLOCK

 

Ok so it's two jobs. But still

 

Mine also beeps 5 times if I try to press the lock button and a door or the trunk lid is open.

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Replaced all of the rear bushings (several just fell out when I removed the control arms) and installed Bilstein shocks. Took quite a bit of time to get it all done, but definitely made a difference! The slop is just... GONE!

 

j.

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Replaced all of the rear bushings (several just fell out when I removed the control arms) and installed Bilstein shocks. Took quite a bit of time to get it all done, but definitely made a difference! The slop is just... GONE!

 

j.

 

 

That was a job I promptly outsourced.

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Newused wheels and tires. Wanted to paint them gold, but im kind of liking them as they are.

20190702_202755.thumb.jpg.4a6a2fbfe4be249f5ededc6e6e62e75c.jpg

05' LGT, ZFD Built 5MT, Stage 2 Cryotune 91/E85, 170,000mi running BRotella T6 and Ecoguard S4615 filters.
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Went to the junk yard today to scout some parts, wanted to grab a fog assembly and trim piece while there, but came home empty handed. Will be headed back to grab some bigger parts soon.

 

Anyone recommend a vendor for one of those rear window spoiler and a trunk lip spoiler combos, preferably already painted?

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Reman power steering rack boots had some minor tears at the ends, replaced with oem since I was worried water/salt and stuff could get in, but not out.

 

Took me way longer than I thought for something so simple. Year old tie rod ends put up a bigger fight than I thought they would coming out, had to unbolt the exhaust under the cv axle in order to have enough room for my hands to push the new boots on, maybe it'd be different on turbos.

 

A couple notes if anyone thinks about doing this in the future.

-I went with oem boots because I read about aftermarket boots ripping after a few years, and they were only $6 each for oem. They are side specific on my NA too, maybe the same on the turbos if we share the same rack. The boots I took off my reman rack looked the same on both sides, but oem are noticeably different on the part towards the center of the car.

-There are some videos where people talk about slipping the new boot over the tie rod end.. No f'ing way can you do that on our cars, I wasn't even considering it since I didn't want to potentially rip the boot, but I'm surprised by how tight the boot fit on with only the bare tie rod. I couldn't even get the boot over the jam nut on the tie rod, had to take that off and lube the tie rod and twist/push the boot on.

 

I don't know, I assumed this reman rack from napa was an oem Subaru rack that had been rebuilt, but maybe it also has larger tie rods that made the boots not just slip on.

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Managed to figure out how to clone the code from my original ECM to a replacement ECM. Mucking around with a hex editor, realized that the "secret code" was my VIN number... :spin: Also means that I can now read the VIN from an ECM to know what car it came from, which could be useful.

 

It took a while, and I had to pull info from several different sources to finally get it working. But really didn't want to pay the dealer to do it. I can try to write it up if people think it might be helpful. It was about $30 in parts and a bunch of time to figure out the software and drivers.

 

IMG_6301.thumb.JPG.78257387b8450cd14f88ef386b69977e.JPG

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Managed to figure out how to clone the code from my original ECM to a replacement ECM. Mucking around with a hex editor, realized that the "secret code" was my VIN number... :spin: Also means that I can now read the VIN from an ECM to know what car it came from, which could be useful.

 

It took a while, and I had to pull info from several different sources to finally get it working. But really didn't want to pay the dealer to do it. I can try to write it up if people think it might be helpful. It was about $30 in parts and a bunch of time to figure out the software and drivers.

 

Is there a header on the PCB for connection, or did you need to solder something in there? I can't tell from the picture.

 

On-topic... Got HAMMER DOWN's old motor completely apart. Mostly so my weak ass can move it around without any help. I plan on selling the B25 heads. The casings look good to me, so assuming they clean up well and are a good core for a built shortblock, I'll keep them for a future build.

 

 

kerR3lZl.jpg

 

 

My original D25 heads are off to the shop this coming Thursday for their overhaul. Old shortblock off to the shop sometime the week after for assembly, valve lash adjustment, etc.

Edited by solidxsnake
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As much as I love the look of my Work Emotion CR Kiwamis, coming from using TE37s for winter duties it was pretty drastic how much sluggish the car feels with the extra weight. Found a set of CE28RT Black Edition wheels in 18x9.5 et40 locally so pretty excited to see the difference they'll make!
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Is there a header on the PCB for connection, or did you need to solder something in there? I can't tell from the picture.

 

 

I used a chip clamp to tap the 8-pin chip for the immobilizer. No header or soldering. It's hit and miss to get it aligned, but once on, it works great. The middle board is an Adafruit FTDI board to translate between USB and the ECM. I'll do a bit of a write up for what I had to do.

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I used a chip clamp to tap the 8-pin chip for the immobilizer. No header or soldering. It's hit and miss to get it aligned, but once on, it works great. The middle board is an Adafruit FTDI board to translate between USB and the ECM. I'll do a bit of a write up for what I had to do.

 

 

Man, that's really neat. I've never even heard of a chip clamp before. So much for being an EE :lol:

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I'm thinking I really need to go one step colder on my plugs.

These are the stock plugs after 6 months...

 

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One was misfiring pretty constantly, one one and off, and the other two on rare occasion. I've found something similar on just a couple of spark plug charts and it mentions to replace the plug and consider going one step colder. This is after ~8k miles... thinking that one step colder is in order (NGK LFR7AIX).

 

I didn't think I was modded enough to need that. I'm still on stock injectors and intake. I have an upgraded fuel pump, AVO TMIC, JMP VF52, and catted downpipe w/ Stromung catback.

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Spark plug temperature correlates more with knock than misfires if you need to go cooler. You need the plugs to get hot enough to self clean, but not so hot the plug auto-ignights the charge. Cooler plugs are to prevent knock from happening if the heating gets too high.

 

If anything your plugs look a bit cool from the charts I’ve seen. Also one defiantly has some issues with deposits. This is ether oil contamination (valve guide leak), a sticking injector, or deposits from the misfires.

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FWIW, here are my one step colder plugs after many many miles. Agree your first plug has other issues.

 

Who did your tune ? My is from tuningalliance@gmail.com

 

 

DSCN8291.thumb.JPG.6e258d7c35acd1b5c5379b380e567dff.JPG

 

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305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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