Stewdogg's 2010 GT

well that is good you are getting it all sorted out. nothing worse than having to do it over again but that is what makes the car worth it, when you don't give up or throw all that money spent away.

Way back last year, when I replaced my center diff, I noticed that my driveshaft u-joints were real notchy and I've wanted to replaced it since then.

Well, today was that day. The new driveshaft is a little beefier in a couple places, it works great and fits like a glove.

This car just keeps giving... me problems. Turns out the drive shaft was no good. It provided a big vibration between 35-40mph. I got it from Carid and after some time spent persuading them to give me my money back they did. I'll pick up a different one soon and see if I have better luck with another manufacturer. It was a Cardone and I know they suck, but tried to save a buck. I can't save a buck on this car.

 

I have been having issues with fitting the fuel pressure sensor that I got with the Cobb flex fuel kit. I got mine from import image racing and it had the wrong size billet connector for the fuel pressure sensor to fit on the flex fuel sensor. They list the 5/16 billet connector for our cars and it really needs the 3/8 billet connector. Cobb is overnight shipping me the correct one and it should get here tomorrow. It has been a bit of a process to figure it out with Cobb, but glad it will finally be sorted out tomorrow. Dave at Cryotune mentioned they were having some issues with the flex fuel kits as well.

 

I just did my ~1,000 mile O/C tonight, no more fluids leaking and now I'm ready to start tuning the car and getting back to some boost.

 

Next I'm going to get an appointment for some window tint.

 

Also thinking of blacking out the chrome around the windows. How is everyone doing this? Just getting some vinyl and doing it yourself?

hey man, sounds like the gift that keeps on giving...did you try rotating the driveshaft 180

degrees on the flange of the rear diff, could have taken it somewhere and had gotten it balanced.

 

congrats on the no oil leaks and first oil change. I just 150miles on my build, no problems so far. bout to do a grand canyon trip in a week or so. can't wait to boost, granny shifting everywhere is harder then it seems.

 

get some vinyl do it yourself, I didn't even notice the chrome until you mentioned it. I'm sure it sticks out more on black than red.

 

good shite though, what numbers are you expecting to see on E85 and a tune?

I did try to install 180 off and had the same results. I hear you on the rebalance, but I paid for a good part and didn't get it, so they can give me my money back. The u joints on my stocker are stiff and have a pretty good detent to them. I will replace it before the boost gets turned up too much.

 

Granny shifting sucks, especially when a nice WRX pulls up next to you at the lights or that guy in a piece of junk is hammering it and pulling away from everyone at the lights... makes me wanna hit the boost.

 

Glad to hear you are getting some trouble free miles on the new build. I have about 1,200 miles now and just waiting for a little turn up tune from Dave at Cryotune. I still have the last piece of the puzzle to install tonight, the Cobb fuel pressure sensor and I'm good to go.

 

I thinking it should be around the 350whp mark... give or take. I would like to get closer to 400whp if possible, but would be happy with 350whp as well.

 

Got any plans for yours? I think you kept the rebuild stock due to your smog regs.

I got the fuel pressure sensor installed today and thought I was ready for a tune, but I was informed by Dave that I need a wideband for tuning. It's so close I can taste it.

Just leaving this here, so I can come back and reference it, if or when my memory goes and I forget what filter I'm using.

Just leaving this here, so I can come back and reference it, if or when my memory goes and I forget what filter I'm using.

 

are those filters superior to the Subaru filters?

superior is a strong word.

 

I'm trying it because it is larger than the OEM Subaru filter and uses the same 23psi bypass valve. I believe that the more surface area for filtering is a good thing. That and I have read others having good luck with them on Subaru's.

 

This was posted in the other thread by Scubaboo and is a good read on Subaru oil filters.

 

https://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f113/subaru-oil-filter-comparison-99130/

While I wait for my wideband to get here, I installed the new fuel pump.

 

I installed the AEM 50-1200 E85 fuel pump to feed my ID1050X injectors. The install was pretty straight forward and easy.

 

I did have to modify the bottom white clip that retains the fuel pump in place, I just hit it with the Dremel till it fit nice and snug.

 

The bottom of the AEM pump had some little tabs that I cut off with some wire snips.

 

I also had to remove the rubber piece that was below the stock fuel pump to have enough room to get the clip on.

 

This is what it looked like after I got it together.

 

I guess if it dies prematurely I will try to get a rubber spacer next time, but I assume it will be fine.

 

The wiring was plug and play and everything else matched up nicely too. It sits a little lower in the mount, but doesn't seem to affect anything. Nice and easy install.

I have to admit, I did go in to the wrong cap under the rear seat on the first try, it was the level sensor side, whoops.

 

Ooh, I learned how to insert the images in my posts today, nice.

I was floored to see how much garbage was in the bottom of the fuel pump bucket. The tank looked nice and clean, so I'm not exactly sure how it got there except for rust from the hold down ring or something while removing the pump stuff.

 

 

I cleaned it out into a rag and there was some silver flakes in there too.

 

You can zoom in on the pics more if you click on them.

 

I'm not happy to have to go through so much stuff on this car, but happy I have repaired/cleaned up so much crappy work from the previous owners.

 

The pump works great and is nice and quiet, sounds like stock. I will see how it works when the wideband is installed and I get a tune on this thing... finally!!

Edited July 5, 2019 by stewdogg

I was floored to see how much garbage was in the bottom of the fuel pump bucket. The tank looked nice and clean, so I'm not exactly sure how it got there except for rust from the hold down ring or something while removing the pump stuff.

 

The pump works great and is nice and quiet, sounds like stock. I will see how it works when the wideband is installed and I get a tune on this thing... finally!!

 

looks like someone used your pump housing to pan some gold.lol probably picked it up from a gas station pump that had failed at some point.

Haha, I wish there was some gold in there. It would have helped to pay for some of these frickin mods I'm doing.

I had to do the similar mods to fit my dw200. (I took a grinder to the pump instead of the clip). Both my fuel pump assembly had dirt (2.5i at 60k and GT at 105k miles) big not quite that much. Did you change the fuel pump assembly filter? It has an service interval of 60k miles and I have seen the electrical connector burnt on a few high mileage ones.

Well I finally got around to getting another driveshaft, after the last rebuilt driveshaft was bad. I ordered a Cardone rebuild the first time and the second is a Dorman. The Dorman seems built better from the get go and it's new, so all the rubber isn't spray painted black.

I like the build of the Dorman because it uses an extra U joint for connecting the two pieces of the driveshaft.

 

The top is the Dorman, middle is the stock set up and bottom is the Cardone.

 

 

Dorman left, stock middle and Cardone right.

I also installed the Torque Solutions Carrier bushings with the install. I fully understand that these offer no real benefit, but they look good and it's another toy for the car.

 

Torque Solutions bushing.

 

Compared to the stock bushings.

 

Installed in the car.

 

The new driveshaft took 95% of the vibration out of the car that I had. It has been a faint vibration on the highway since I got the car and I'm very happy to have that fixed, finally.

 

I need to get my wideband installed today or tomorrow and on to tuning next week.

 

I'm heading off to Fl4tfour Fest today and I was hoping to have the tune going, but all the bad ass subies will be some inspiration to get things finished up or at least moving forward again.

I had some moaning on the right hand side of the car and could make the noise louder by loading and unloading it by swinging the steering wheel left and right while going down the road. Time for a new wheel bearing/hub assembly.

 

That thing was a beast to get out. Pulled out with the slide hammer, the bearing separated and I then persuaded the rest of the bearing out of the knuckle.

 

 

 

I also had a seeping axle seal on that side, so I took care of that as well at the same time.

 

 

 

I also have finally gotten to the tuning process and go figure, I can't get through it...

I am hitting 20PSI of boost now that the weather is a little cooler and less humid. The problem is that I'm just running on 0 wastegate duty and should be more around 15PSI, so I have an issue. I have talked to Dave at Cryo and Bryan at BNR. We have come to the conclusion that I have to drop the turbo off the car and back off the lock nut on the wastegate arm to let the wastegate move freely. I don't think there's anyway to access that lock nut while on the car.

I really thought/hoped that I would have my tune by now... BACK TO WORK!!

Just leaving this here, so I can come back and reference it, if or when my memory goes and I forget what filter I'm using.

 

I hope you dont forget what thread you posted it in though.

 

Just a little more and it's tune time, good luck!

Thanks Scubaboo! I fear forgetting most things is most likely in my future, but maybe that's a good thing, I don't know.

 

 

How did you all spend your spare time tonight...this is how I spent mine...

 

 

That thing was a beast to put back in by myself. I have the car on a lift and really need to pick up a screw jack for under the lift, these arms and shoulders didn't enjoy that at all.

 

 

All to move the two nuts back on the wastegate actuator 1 and a half rotations.

 

 

I will email Dave tonight and get a pull logged (hopefully tomorrow) to see if the waste gate is functioning properly now.

 

It sounds nice and quiet on the highway with that new wheel bearing too!

Turns out that backing off the wastegate arm 1 and 1/2 turns did the trick and my boost is back under control.

 

I've done a few pulls in 3rd to get the fuel trims set with the AFR's and now on to boost and timing. I got a new tune from Dave/Cryo to load up today and go figure the Accessport Manager program needs a mandatory update starting today. So, I update it... it's got a bug and won't open. I can't go back to the old version either, so I'm at a stand still again till they get this resolved. I called Cobb and they are aware of it and working on it.

Cobb fixed the update today and Accessport Manager 3.0 is good to go... back to tuning!

Did you have to adjust the wastegate because you ported it?

I believe the wastegate arm was too tight against the wastegate spring, not allowing it to move freely and at the correct spring pressure. The porting should allow the wastegate to open a little easier (if anything) by allowing more exhaust gasses out the port and not into the turbo, creating more boost.

 

You've been around here since 2017... where are the pics of your 2011 GT?

I’ll work on that. Lol. I mainly get on here to read. What wide band did you use? Thanks for sharing the photos of the driveshaft. Good to know dorman replaces that cv with a ujoint. Has to be stronger. Did you end up going with the south bend clutch? I work three blocks away from there. I had them machine my flywheel but I’m using a comp clutch 6 puck

 

 

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Haha, at least I know your cars red now... By the looks of the picture I would like to hear the story now too.

 

Go figure, it was the more expensive of the driveshafts and the nicer of them as well. That's what I get for trying to save a buck.

 

I ended up using the AEM X-Series 30-0300 AFR sensor.

When it gets colder and I have more time I will update this thread with a build sheet on the first page and list the pics of all the crazy shit I found from the guy who worked on the car before me. It was some crazy stupid stuff.

 

I did go with the South Bend stage 2 daily and I really like it. It feels very stock like. I did the clutch damper delete at the same time as well and I like that a ton. I hated the dead feeling clutch pedal, I need a little feed back.

How do you like the 6 puck clutch? What kind of power do you have feeding that thing?