Turbo oil return leaking - what parts do I need?

'05 LGT wagon 5MT

The turbo is leaking oil at the flange where the oil return pipe bolts to the turbo body. It seems to be the gasket.

I will be having a local shop tackle this but I will be providing the required parts.

Apparently, the turbo needs to be pulled to do this properly so I am trying to discern what parts (gaskets) I need.

For example: Will we need the gasket between the downpipe and the catback?

 

Here is what I have:

Stock VF40 turbo

Filters removed from banjo's

Megan Racing UEL header

Perrin Top mount, air duct, and recirculating BOV

Cobb SF intake

Invidia catted downpipe

Magnaflow Mid pipe, to a Borla catback

A couple other ponderings:

- Is it worth it to also install new/aftermarket oil lines at this time?

- I saw some aftermarket AN nipple-type oil return flanges - worth it or is stock oil return hardware OK?

I guess my main over reaching question here to you more experienced guys is what you guys have ready to go and on the workbench before pulling this turbo to fix this leak?

Thanks a million!!!

Oh - and now I am looking at the IAG Turbo oil feed line kits.

If you get the IAG kit, they supply all you need. It's just a copper washer that most shops have on hand. It's a good idea to upgrade the oiling hardware as oil is the number one cause of turbo (and subsequent short block) expiration.

 

If they're pulling the turbo, then you'll need the UP-Turbo gasket as well as the DP-turbo gasket. Make sure to inspect your inlet. It can tear easily when removing the turbo. If they tear it, they may not 'fess up and pass the cost to you.

 

Any special reason you're having a shop do this work? It's not terrible to do, you just have to fight with the oil hardline. It would save you some greenbacks for sure. Having said that, a shop is never a bad idea, especially when you consider the tight spaces you'll need to work in. The supply on the back of the head is no fun.

doobaruGT - Thanks for your input!

I have been really torn about doing this myself. My concern is my lack of turbo experience in general. I am confident working on stuff, but have never torn into a turbo system. My other hangup is that the car is so low! I assume I would have to do at least some wrenching from below...

The shop put the car on a rack to verify where the oil was coming from. They said I would also need the exhaust gasket between the Dp and cat back. I hope I got those terms correct - it is the exhaust joint located back near the center of the car. Is this true?

I have done some research and know what you mean about the fragile stock turbo inlet. The shop is not suby-specific or anything, but they are good guys. My plan was to 'pre-nag' them about the dangers of this inlet.

doobaruGT - Thanks for your input!

I have been really torn about doing this myself. My concern is my lack of turbo experience in general. I am confident working on stuff, but have never torn into a turbo system. My other hangup is that the car is so low! I assume I would have to do at least some wrenching from below...

The shop put the car on a rack to verify where the oil was coming from. They said I would also need the exhaust gasket between the Dp and cat back. I hope I got those terms correct - it is the exhaust joint located back near the center of the car. Is this true?

I have done some research and know what you mean about the fragile stock turbo inlet. The shop is not suby-specific or anything, but they are good guys. My plan was to 'pre-nag' them about the dangers of this inlet.

 

Sounds like they're removing the DP as well. In that case, you'll need that gasket as well. If you have a 3" DP, you probably need the 3"-2.5" adaptor and the carbon ring as well.

I bolt my turbo to the up pipe, remove the studs and get three bolts from the dealership parts guy's that bolt the up pipe support bracket to the block, it will make lining up the inlet, new oil return and up pipe at the same time.

 

I cut my turbo inlet before I figured this one out.

 

 

My Invidia DP mate to my stock midpipe with a Grimmspeed 2X thick 3" gasket. I've use that gasket over and over a few times.

 

When installing the turbo, leave it lose on the up pipe until you have the tmic to TB hose started and tmic to turbo bolts started, then start the support bracket bolts then tighten the TB clamp, two bolts at the turbo then support bracket the turbo to up pipe.

I think I see what you mean Max Cap. What a PITA to stop a small oil leak....

FWIW, for putting a turbo on a Honda Civic one of the tricks was to buy the gasket kit for a turbo on a 1982 Ford Thunderbird Turbo Coupe. It came with all the common gaskets and was cheap.

 

I think auto part stores have them.

I wanted to share an interesting experience when we tore into fixing what we thought was a leaky VF40 turbo oil return pipe. We removed the turbo, ground the oil return pipe's flange nice and flat, put on a new gasket with sealant and re-installed everything. The turbo STILL leaked oil - it ran down the oil return pipe/hose in a steady stream. WTF!!

So we pulled the turbo back out and started really examining the turbo. We noticed that the seam where the compressor side flange meets the cartridge was not even all the way around the circumference. The gap was slightly larger near the oil return port (see red arrow in pic). So we decided to tear into the turbo by removing the compressor housing and impellor. OMG - the 4 bolts that attach the compressor flange were loose - like not even finger tight. So we cleaned everything up and put some high temp sealant on the flange and Loctite on the 4 bolts and reassembled. NO MORE LEAK!! Anyone EVER seen such a thing? The turbo seems fine now, minimal shaft play etc.

I am seriously considering getting a new or rebuilt turbo asap now.

 

PM JmP6889928 for a turbo, he's our go to guy for turbo's.

 

Talk with him first.

 

Back in Aug 2011 I went with a new vf52, glad I did. It's been great fun for the past 83,000+ miles.

Thanks Max... JmP is where I am leaning after searching the forums.

What supporting mods do you have for going to a vf52?

None, I'm on stock fueling with the normal stage 2 dp and catless up pipe.

 

The car is a blast to drive. There's plenty of power, oh ya, I do have some porting done in the heads down in the valve pocket.

heyo gents, discovered my supply line was cracked while doing a mound of other work.

looking at the IAG kit, there's 'optional' fittings ... turbo feed, avcs filter, cylinder head... necessary? I haven't got the turbo out to see if there is any more damage, but wouldn't mind picking these fittings up to be safe and all.

 

thoughts?

If your good with fittings you can make you own kit from places like Earls https://www.holley.com/brands/earls/

Or any number of plumbing supply houses or hardware stores.

 

Summit racing, or Jegs.

 

I did most of the oil pressure and fuel lines, etc from here, https://behrents.com/ back when we were building the drag race civic.

 

If you have a good bench vise you can cut and make your own lines.

 

Seeing as your from CT, may be contact Brian at www.tuningalliance.com and see what he has to offer.

thanks Max for the heads up! will reach out and all. more research and looking into more options has helped me figure out what I need.

looking happy to have the Spec back on the road!