05 LGT 5spd EJ257 Type RA Build

Got her torn down yesterday. Time to get the heads to the machine shop. Are the camshaft caps supposed to be a bit scratched up? I ran my nail over the scratches and I can feel them. I hope it's something easy that the machine shop can handle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Update:

 

Well this week has had it's ups and downs for sure. I found a pretty good deal on a mishimoto tmic, but when it was received it wasn't a tmic. I received a wrapped header, I don't know the brand. When I got the box it wasn't packed right, the box was smashed and the inside of the box had no packing at all. I contacted the seller and let him know of the mistake and asked for a refund. I would have told the seller to still send the tmic but after seeing how this was packed I wasn't interested. I have yet to hear back from the seller on paying for the return shipping for the headers. I'm just happy he issued the refund and getting the process completed quickly.

 

 

 

 

With the small negative situation for a Friday. Something positive happened on the same day. I found locally a brand new in box grimmspeed tmic for an 08 wrx that was never installed. The person I picked it up from had his car totaled. I thought it was a great come up. I know the air splitter is different between the 08 wrx and lgt, but for the price it was worth it. I'm going to reach out to grimmspeed and see if they can help me out. Maybe they're willing to trade out the air splitter, it's a long shot but worth the call. I've had some bad luck with the intercooler portion of the build. Months ago I found a racer x fmic nearby, I had to pass it over I was strapped because of the new short block. Then a couple a weeks ago I found a mishimoto fmic from an 08 wrx for a great deal. Obviously, with this whole COVID-19 I had to pass on it as well since it was in the bay area. I'm about 5 hours away and just didn't want to risk it. Then with this issue with the mishi tmic that happened, I was very happy to find the grimmspeed tmic.

 

 

 

 

In the meantime I've been working on cleaning up my interior here and there. I've been installing my black interior little by little. When looking at some of the interior pieces I noticed the stock rubber coating was pretty pitted. I decided to start vinyl wrapping interior pieces and cleaning them really well before installing them. I want to make sure the interior pieces match the new jdm double din that's coming in.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On a side note, my wife and I went to our local pick n pull looking for bolts that are needed for the ej257 engine build. I was able to find the random bolts that I needed, but I was very happy to find a part that I've been looking for many years. It's non subaru related and will help my side business for making custom gauge cluster wire harnesses for the s13 240sx. Also, I was able to find gauge cluster connectors for my 180sx type-x gauge cluster, this is another piece that I can finally add to my conversion parts that I'll be able to provide the S-chassis community. The funny thing was I forgot my wire snips and we found a steak knife to help cut the wires. Sometimes you have to get resourceful at the junkyard. Don't mind my idiot look, I was very stoked!

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 6, 2020 by k00laid83

Update:

 

Well the heads were dropped off with the machine shop on Friday. I'm having them clean and resurface/deck the heads. I'm having them install all the valve seals that came with my subaru gasket kit and having my comp clutch flywheel resurfaced. I had them clean the valve covers as well while I was it. They advised that I should have everything by the end of this week.

 

I switched the short blocks out on my engine stand. My new short block is ready to start rebuilding. I'm glad I listened to everyone on here and on facebook groups about just picking up a new short block. It looks damn good! I started installing some of my parts. I installed a new 11mm STI oil pump, new baffle plate, a moroso oil pick up and new oil pan. The plan is to clean most of the hard lines this weekend and clean out anything that might have bearings particles in it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I gotta wash my poor 240sx!!

Update:

A couple of weeks ago I posted about receiving headers instead of my Mishimoto TMIC. Luckily, I was able to find a brand new Grimmspeed’s TMIC from my local Facebook Marketplace. The TMIC is for a 2008 Subaru WRX and I knew that the WRX and Legacy GT TMIC is interchangeable. When reviewing the TMIC I noticed that the only difference between the Grimmspeed TMIC kit for the WRX and Legacy GT is the actual air splitter. I contacted Grimmspeed, after a phone call and several emails. They advised that they would switch out my current WRX air splitter for a Legacy GT piece. Needless to say that Grimmspeed was amazing to deal with! Their customer service is out of this world. That's an amazing reputation, it goes to show that this company is really involved and part of the community. I kept reading on here and on Facebook how great they were. Man everyone was not lying! I for one will be a life long customer and will ensure to purchase Grimmspeed when it comes to my future upgrades!! I know that this was a ramble but I’m pushing my ej257 type ra small block build to keep heading the right direction. I’m lucky that everything worked out!

 

Old Air Splitter:

 

New Air Splitter:

Edited August 10, 2020 by k00laid83

Update:

 

I've had a good birthday so far. I was able to pick up the heads and flywheel today from the machine shop. Glad I took the heads to get worked on and valve seals installed. The machine shop mentioned that one of the heads was a little warped but it got ironed out. My flywheel was a little off as well but I'm good to go to get things put together. I had a thought hit me yesterday about painting the engine bay the color I want to paint the rest of the car. So, while I was out today I stopped by my paint shop and picked up the new paint. I'm sticking to an Old Datsun / Nissan color from the 280z. I think with all of the black in the engine bay and the darker colors the car will have, the safari gold color will make things pop. I know it could be considered blasphemy using a Nissan color on a Subaru lol

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I like your nails bro!

I like your nails bro!

 

Haha thanks for noticing! I feel cute now lol

UPDATE:

 

Yesterday was great. I received my new VF52 Turbo from Hill County Forced Induction. I'm so glad that I followed the advise from all the posts and research I did on this company. The quality in their work is awesome. Plus, the way they package their turbos when they ship things out reflects on their quality! If I need any other turbos rebuilt I'll make sure to reach out to them first.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I worked on the car today and got the JDM double din completed. After a bit of researching I saw that others had the same issue with gaps around the shifter trim. I had to grind some of the tabs where it meets the JDM climate control. With a bit of grinding I got the gaps a bit closer. Only thing is I think I'm going to redo the shifter trim and remove the vinyl wrap. I have some SEM black trim paint that I'll use. I'll be throwing in a double din stereo soon but the spare single din I have will do for now. It's far better than the stock stereo and radio transmitter combo. I also got the front half of the car completed and switched over to black. I should have the rest of the car switched to black this weekend. I'm ready to get rid of the tan seat belts.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited August 10, 2020 by k00laid83

I took the long weekend to get the heads put on the new engine block. It took a lot longer than I expected since I was being extra careful not to mess things up. Overall, it went smoothly. Now to just put things together quickly and repaint the engine bay. I spoke with my tuner and they recommended to me that I go ID 1050x top feed injectors and get rid of my TGV's. Per their recommendation I'll be going that route. Also, I keep going back and fourth if I should pick up equal length headers prior to getting my car tuned. I might just stick to the stock exhaust manifold since from everything I've read says they're great out of the factory. While putting this thing together I realized how satisfying it was to see everything go on the new engine.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 6, 2020 by k00laid83

Did you adjust the gap those spark plugs? They don't have the correct gap since they are part number -11 which means a 1.1mm gap and you want a 0.7-0.8 mm gap.

 

If you want the OEM plug, you need ngk ILFR6B which is part number 6481 amd comes gapped at 0.8mm out of the box.

Or in english, the plug gap should be .027-.029" if you running higher boost.

 

The OEM exhaust manifolds will be fine. Put that money somewhere else.

 

Oh, remove both banjo filters.

Did you adjust the gap those spark plugs? They don't have the correct gap since they are part number -11 which means a 1.1mm gap and you want a 0.7-0.8 mm gap.

 

If you want the OEM plug, you need ngk ILFR6B which is part number 6481 amd comes gapped at 0.8mm out of the box.

 

Yes sir! I made sure to gap them. I always make sure because when I buy spark plugs for my sr20det they're never gapped correctly.

 

I appreciate the heads up man!

Or in english, the plug gap should be .027-.029" if you running higher boost.

 

The OEM exhaust manifolds will be fine. Put that money somewhere else.

 

Oh, remove both banjo filters.

 

Perfect, I gapped them to .029. - 030 per some other forum posts.

 

That's what I'm thinking, I'll stick to the OEM exhaust manifolds. I have a couple of buddies running them and they're putting down good power.

 

Oh I made sure to remove those dang banjo filters. When I removed one of them I couldn't even see through it. The one behind the timing belt still has the filter inside the banjo bolt. I'll make sure to remove them when I clean the bolt up when I'm reinstalling the line.

Did you adjust the gap those spark plugs? They don't have the correct gap since they are part number -11 which means a 1.1mm gap and you want a 0.7-0.8 mm gap.

 

If you want the OEM plug, you need ngk ILFR6B which is part number 6481 amd comes gapped at 0.8mm out of the box.

 

 

wait what?? I thought the oem plugs for our application were the SILFR6A 7913. Those are the ones I put in my car. I put the wrong ones then?

Just checked the NGK site and I don't see any diff. So I guess we are fine.

 

 

https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=10145

https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9807

wait what?? I thought the oem plugs for our application were the SILFR6A 7913. Those are the ones I put in my car. I put the wrong ones then?

Just checked the NGK site and I don't see any diff. So I guess we are fine.

 

 

https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=10145

https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9807

I can't remember the actual difference as it's only slight. I think covertrussian has it in a thread somewhere. I just pulled the part number from the FSM.

no worries. The specs on the NGK site show exactly the same thing for both. But there is a slight price diff

no worries. The specs on the NGK site show exactly the same thing for both. But there is a slight price diff

 

If I'm being honest I was a bit confused since summit racing had so many options that said fit the LGT. I was looking at a bunch of threads on this and these plugs were listed as it fitting. I wanted to pick up a set of G-Power instead of the V-Power. But I've had great luck with the V-Power's on my sr20det. I prefer copper plugs over iridium plugs personally. I'm lucky that I'm 30 minutes away from summit racing and the salesman recommended these as well.

[MENTION][/MENTION]nice

Well it's been a long time since I've posted. I pretty much stopped working on the legacy. I stopped since the person with the dealer license I bought the car from was slow playing me on getting me a title. I bought the car back in February and just got the title on Friday, August 7, 2020. Long story short I had to get the police involved and place a complaint with the DMV's compliance department. Well now that I can move on I can really start working on the car heavily again. Time to get the rear of the car converted to black and get the engine put together. I was watching a YouTube video of someone having issues getting the oil pump to prime. They ended up having to tear everything back down and packing the oil pump with Vaseline. So, I'm thinking since I haven't put the engine timing pieces together that now is a good time to redo the oil pump and pack it with Vaseline. Then get the timing and everything else put together. I should have more pictures in the future.

They ended up having to tear everything back down and packing the oil pump with Vaseline. So, I'm thinking since I haven't put the engine timing pieces together that now is a good time to redo the oil pump and pack it with Vaseline. Then get the timing and everything else put together. I should have more pictures in the future.

 

Never heard anyone having to pack an oil pump with Vaseline to get it to prime on a Subaru. I know the subaru can sometimes have an issue with an air bubble between the filter and the pump; which is why Flatirons Tuning will tell you not to fill your oil filter ahead of time. Why don't you just prime the system manually with a pressure bleeder?

Never heard anyone having to pack an oil pump with Vaseline to get it to prime on a Subaru. I know the subaru can sometimes have an issue with an air bubble between the filter and the pump; which is why Flatirons Tuning will tell you not to fill your oil filter ahead of time. Why don't you just prime the system manually with a pressure bleeder?

 

Hey man that's a great suggestion. I really didn't want to remove the oil pump since I've already installed it. I usually never put oil in my oil filters when installing. I'll for sure try this method.

 

So you just fill the engine with oil like you would normally and just use that pressure pump to run it through the engine?

I did not prime my brand new oil pump and it did give me issues getting it to build up pressure. What I ended up doing was remove one of the bottom allen bolts from the pump and used a siringe with a tube to squeeze engine lube into the pump. I made sure no spark plugs were installed and no oil filter installed. Reinstalled the bolt, then cranked the engine and it did not take long to build up pressure (oil started to pour from the oil filter location).

I did not prime my brand new oil pump and it did give me issues getting it to build up pressure. What I ended up doing was remove one of the bottom allen bolts from the pump and used a siringe with a tube to squeeze engine lube into the pump. I made sure no spark plugs were installed and no oil filter installed. Reinstalled the bolt, then cranked the engine and it did not take long to build up pressure (oil started to pour from the oil filter location).

 

Thank you sir. That's something I'll keep in mind when I start the engine. I'll make sure to maybe get oil through that allen bolt you were talking about. I think I'll try both when the time comes.