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Multiple codes after UP/DP install (P0171, P0638, P2109)


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So this past Saturday I installed a catless UP, from a WRX, along with a catless Invidia turboback (I ground down the divorce plate as recommended) and flashed a stage 2 91 octane map from AP. Finished up late and wanted to drive it around to test the fruits of my rust-inhibited labor. Upon start-up, I noticed the annoying rattle I've experienced during my ownership is not any heat shield, but I believe a partially stuck open wastegate I noticed when I was hooking up the DP. Should've given that attention.. but I anxiously wanted to listen to the unadulterated music of a catless exhaust and didn't. Drove around not getting above 40mph and going easy on the throttle. Probably 15-20 miles with multiple times turning it on/off while running some errands. Well, about half a mile from my house, under mild acceleration, it dumped into limp mode with the solid check engine and flashing cruise. Pulled over and pulled the following codes:

 

P0171- System too lean (extreme fuel trim)

P0638- Throttle actuator control range/perf (bank 1)

P2109- Throttle/pedal position sensor "a" minimum stop performance

 

Tried frank_ster's re-learn protocol and it just started in limp mode again.. Since it was late (1130ish) and pouring (of course), I had it towed a nearby Subie shop that is familiar with the car. I'm out of town all week for work so I can't play around with it anyway, although I did not have a very confidence-inspiring call with the mechanic this morning. Been trying to make sense of other posts with these codes, but can't figure out what would throw all three. Most I've found usually just experience one at a time. Any ideas of what i should troubleshoot?

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Yuu need a tune.

 

Some mods don't require it but you have removed a cat. This will drastically effect several factors in your map.

 

Although your using the stage 2 map there is likely some factors to the weather and temperature where your at that are very different from the person who created the map.

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I wonder if you snapped the connector on the rear of the TGV on the passenger side. I tuner can delete that CEL if that's what you did.

 

It's close to the turbo and moving your hands around there you could have bumped that plastic connector.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I wonder if you snapped the connector on the rear of the TGV on the passenger side. I tuner can delete that CEL if that's what you did.

 

It's close to the turbo and moving your hands around there you could have bumped that plastic connector.

 

 

Honestly, that's what I was afraid of. Breaking loose bolts that have been fastened for over 12 years with only PB and hand tools leads to some violent releases..

 

 

 

Hoping for some positive feedback from the mechanic today. Otherwise, there's a place about an hr south of me that employs a reputable subie master tech that I might tow it to

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Yuu need a tune.

 

Some mods don't require it but you have removed a cat. This will drastically effect several factors in your map.

 

Although your using the stage 2 map there is likely some factors to the weather and temperature where your at that are very different from the person who created the map.

 

 

Well the AP is the tune, albeit an OTS one. No tune is needed for my choice of UP. Looking back I should've installed the resistor as a failsafe, but the codes thrown didn't indicate a high egt reading, so I'm doubtful that's the issue. There are plenty of people I've heard of running the AP with a catless dp. The risk is overboosting, but I wasn't in boost when my car went into limp mode. And a tune wouldn't help overboosting anyway, it's a mechanical issue with the wastegate.

 

 

 

I would be more worried about the weather/temp if I was somewhere extreme. But Cobb is located in Texas and I'm in Ohio. Basically same elevation and it was like 60deg.

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FWIW, The TGV connector on my wagon is broken, my Tuner just deleted the code, car runs fine. One of the tranny shop guy's broke it year back.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Thanks Max. I'll keep that in mind.

 

Right now I've got the mechanic taking a look at the throttle body too. I wasn't working in that area, but maybe there is something wrong with it, since i lost pedal control and what codes were thrown..

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, I noticed the annoying rattle I've experienced during my ownership is not any heat shield, but I believe a partially stuck open wastegate I noticed when I was hooking up the DP. Should've given that attention..

 

Wait, wait, wait.....you can tune all damn day and it won't fix a partially stuck open wastegate. Fix the mechanical problems first and then worry about the tune.

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, I noticed the annoying rattle I've experienced during my ownership is not any heat shield, but I believe a partially stuck open wastegate I noticed when I was hooking up the DP. Should've given that attention..

 

Wait, wait, wait.....you can tune all damn day and it won't fix a partially stuck open wastegate. Fix the mechanical problems first and then worry about the tune.

 

Yeah, I know a tune won't fix that. Shouldn't have reassembled it knowing it wasn't right. It'll be one of the first things i address when i get home.

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Not to argue that it isn't a mechanical issue.

 

But you have removed a huge piece of back pressure from your exhaust system. This is going to effect the way your car interprets the information it's sending to the ecu.

 

I'm also pretty sure those maps don't just come from Cobb. Many are user submitted.

 

That said the only code that could indicate a problem with the map is the fuel bank running too lean. Which could be caused for other reasons as well. And I completely agree that the mechanical issue must be worried about first

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  • 2 weeks later...

Wanna know what it's like to stare into the face of death and walk away? Well, maybe I don't, but I think I have a good idea of what it feels like.

 

Attached is a pic looking into my throttle body. You might notice something that looks like it isn't supposed to be there. That's because it isn't. It's supposed to be on the attachment of my Dremel that I was using to grind down the divorce plate on my Invidia downpipe. I had my intercooler sitting on my workbench and the only explanation I have is that when the grinding wheel broke off the attachment it bounced right into my intercooler outlet. Then, while driving, it got stuck in the throttle body plate.

 

If I were a cat, I think this would've used up like two of my lives.

 

With the grinding wheel removed and codes cleared, I have driven about 300 miles since with no issues at all.

 

The rattle turned out to be the heat shield between the drive shaft and the mid pipe hitting the resonator. With the downpipe dropped, i noticed the wastegate flap is actually off center like HAMMER DOWN noted in one of his posts https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/waste-gate-172683.html. I'm considering having the turbo rebuilt or finding a replacement.

IMG_69281.thumb.jpg.d3f1f3271fcfaaa796bf3188ad58bc0c.jpg

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