gimpydingo Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 Edit: attached learning view. Looks like a it of a leak. I am having a few minor issues that I wanted some input on. The first is I am hearing a squeak somewhat like worn brake pads when I am turning slow, less then 10 MPH. I just had my tires rotated and the day after the ABS light came on for a few minutes then turned off. After that I noticed a squeaking noise when turning into driveways/parking spots. Does it on right and left turns. I was thinking wheel bearing, but with the low speed sound and ABS possibly the differential? Fluids are clean and always full. Second issue is the car was hard to start today. It took 2 tries of cranking to get the car started. I usually insert the key for a second then turn on the car. I know the fuel pumps can take a moment to start up. Temp out is around 50 - 55. Battery is fairly new, but not ruling that out. I do have a DP, which recently I am getting a lot of exhaust smell in the cabin and when I popped the hood and fired up the car I can smell exhaust near the DP/Turbo, which may also be coming from the crossover pipe. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted November 26, 2018 Author Share Posted November 26, 2018 The starting issue seems to be due to a loose battery terminal. The exhaust smell was an exhaust leak at the exhaust manifold. That took some fiddling (hate those metal gaskets), but I got it all sealed up. Those issues are taken care of. I am still hearing the squeak when I turn left/right slowly. Any ideas what the cause is? :spin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moral hazard Posted November 26, 2018 Share Posted November 26, 2018 Power steering belt ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EatingInternet Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 Check your ps fluid. Probably low. Either that or the belt/pulley. Most likely at least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 You need to get under the car and take a good look and may be take the brakes apart and inspect the hub. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted November 27, 2018 Author Share Posted November 27, 2018 Thanks everyone. I did check the PS fluid as one of the first items, full and clean. You need to get under the car and take a good look and may be take the brakes apart and inspect the hub. I'll get back under there and tear into it. I did look for any leaking axle boots or anything else out of the ordinary. Visually everything seems fine. I find it odd that the sounds comes at low speeds. Anything over 10 - 15 MPH and no sound. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 Is that a OEM axle in there or aftermarket ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted November 28, 2018 Author Share Posted November 28, 2018 Is that a OEM axle in there or aftermarket ? I have an aftermarket with about 15k miles on it on the drivers side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 FWIW, A few years back after my trusted mechanic installed a cardone left front axle, I noticed a clicking sound in the summer time with the windows rolled down. The sound would happen when I pulled away from a stop sign. I stopped by one day and told him I have a question about that axle he put in. He said back to me, "is it making a clicking sound?" I said yes, e said, " they found that some of them were a little to long" he replaced it and its been fine for years. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted November 28, 2018 Author Share Posted November 28, 2018 FWIW, A few years back after my trusted mechanic installed a cardone left front axle, I noticed a clicking sound in the summer time with the windows rolled down. The sound would happen when I pulled away from a stop sign. I stopped by one day and told him I have a question about that axle he put in. He said back to me, "is it making a clicking sound?" I said yes, e said, " they found that some of them were a little to long" he replaced it and its been fine for years. After an accident with my Jetta many years back a mech put on an aftermarket axle. It clicked as well. I had them replace with an OEM and fixed it right up. On my LGT I have a SURTRACK from Rockauto. It was all fine until the tire repair and rotation. After I installed the axle it felt just like the OEM. I still have my original axle that I can reboot worst case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 I would reboot the OEM axle and put it in. I had my right front rebooted at the first sign of it leaking. Wish I would have done that with the left many years ago. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted November 28, 2018 Author Share Posted November 28, 2018 Yeah, I know I should just boot the OEM and stick it back on. Busy with work and lazy. It's a great combo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 29, 2018 Share Posted November 29, 2018 Yeah, I know the feeling. Glad I have a trusted mechanic. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted November 29, 2018 Author Share Posted November 29, 2018 I forgot to add AND CHEAP. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 30, 2018 Share Posted November 30, 2018 Yeah, a lot of us are cheap...but there comes a time when you realize, it's time to pony up and pay the price. At 64y/o, I'll do the easy stuff, I now let the experts do the bigger jobs. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted April 3, 2019 Author Share Posted April 3, 2019 I fixed the boot on my orig axle and replaced the aftermarket axle. Car is still squeaking/grinding at low speeds (5 - 10 MPH), but is doing it when driving straight and sometimes when turning. It sounds like brakes dragging on the rotors. I guess next thing to replace/check is the wheel bearing. Really hoping it's not the differential. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EatingInternet Posted April 4, 2019 Share Posted April 4, 2019 Check and see if you got a rock stuck somewhere in the brakes. That did it for me once after they "repaved" the road in my neighborhood. You can also try putting the car on jack stands and have someone rev it up to 10mph while you look for the grind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted April 4, 2019 Author Share Posted April 4, 2019 Check and see if you got a rock stuck somewhere in the brakes. That did it for me once after they "repaved" the road in my neighborhood. You can also try putting the car on jack stands and have someone rev it up to 10mph while you look for the grind. Ahh a rock. Let me check that. I would need to get all 4 tires off the ground for the rev method, correct becuz AWD? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted April 4, 2019 Author Share Posted April 4, 2019 I am hoping I found the issue. The lower caliper pin on the drivers side does not move freely. I'll grease it up and hopefully that solves that. Edit: I guess I need a new rubber "boot" that goes over the pin. Mines swollen and won't go back into the hole. Always something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted April 4, 2019 Share Posted April 4, 2019 I had that problem, I think the green permatex I lubed the pins with expanded the rubber, lots of similar complaints on Amazon with the green and purple permatex brake lubes. I'll only use something like sil glyde on pins with boots now. I bought a few new boots last year, one aftermarket kind didn't fit my non-turbo 09 caliper pins. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/caliper-piston-corrosion-and-guide-pin-bushings-269717.html?p=5791758 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted April 4, 2019 Author Share Posted April 4, 2019 I had that problem, I think the green permatex I lubed the pins with expanded the rubber, lots of similar complaints on Amazon with the green and purple permatex brake lubes. I'll only use something like sil glyde on pins with boots now. I bought a few new boots last year, one aftermarket kind didn't fit my non-turbo 09 caliper pins. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/caliper-piston-corrosion-and-guide-pin-bushings-269717.html?p=5791758 I see grey permatex on the pin and when I cleaned the hole with a q-tip I see green mixed so obv it swole and not in a good way. I guess OEM is the way to go based on your thread or remove all together as people mentioned. Hmmmm Edit: Replaced the pin without the sleeve. The sound is not as loud as it was, but when I push the brakes I can hear the sound faintly the whole time I hold the brakes. Maybe pad is rubbing on rotor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted April 5, 2019 Share Posted April 5, 2019 How do the pads look? When my pin was seized, the inner pad on the piston was more worn than the outer pad. Makes sense, pistons can still move just fine, but the outside of the caliper can't clamp down properly. Maybe the pads are just a little rough, or.. I don't know what you'd call it, abnormal from uneven contact from that seized pin. With a little time the problem may get better now that the caliper slides freely? Also, it doesn't sound like the diff to me, I was getting a noticeable click from mine when turning at slow speeds, never any issue when going straight. *I forgot to mention, having the lower pins seized also caused my pad shims to shift somehow, just somethin else to take a peek at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted April 5, 2019 Author Share Posted April 5, 2019 I only pulled the calipers off enough to get the pins out to clean and lube. I'll take it apart and inspect the pads aa it makes sense they could be wonky due to the stuck pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted April 7, 2019 Author Share Posted April 7, 2019 After pulling the calipers off, cleaning, and greasing eveything with silicon no more noise. If nothing else glad to have the orig axle back on. Now to tackle brakes/rotors on the 3.6. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.