TMIC studs stripped.

I recently installed my new Grimmspeed TMIC and the studs used to mount my bypass valve are stripped to the point where they will hold the BPV on but barely and with a slight leak.

I'm wondering whether I should drill and re-tap the holes a size larger or attempt to get them to hold in the existing (mostly stripped holes) using JB weld or some other high temp epoxy.

Unfortunately I bought the unit from a member on here but it was BNIB when I received it. All hoses and hardware still in sealed bags. Kinda doubt grimmspeed would be willing to replace the core.... But yes maybe worth a call before I attempt repairs.

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Forgot about helicoils. As thin as the aluminum is at that point, I wonder if a helicoil is the best option. Guess I need to do some measuring in the morning.

Also don't think I've ever used a helicoil to repair a through hole....

I've used helicoils a little bit, they work well, but you still need to tap the hole and then use a special tool to get it in there. They are used when you really can't change the bolt size for some reason.

I would just drill and tap it with the next size bolt. Amazon has good prices on specific drill bit + taps. If its not a thru hole, make sure you get a 'bottoming tap'

There's cheaper ones out there but here's an example:

https://www.amazon.com/Drill-America-AB14X2-Flute-Bottoming/dp/B00DLCWO5S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1471741804&sr=8-2&keywords=M14+bottoming+tap

All of the intercoolers I've had have had the BOV holes helicoiled from day one.

Along with the turbo flange bolts.

Call Matt at GS first.

You need to make sure you get all the metal chips out if you drill through holes.

A good machine shop con also do a good repair.

It might be worth it in the long run to have a machine shop do the repair. That GS tmic is not a cheap piece to screw up.

I've used helicoils a little bit, they work well, but you still need to tap the hole and then use a special tool to get it in there. They are used when you really can't change the bolt size for some reason.

I would just drill and tap it with the next size bolt. Amazon has good prices on specific drill bit + taps. If its not a thru hole, make sure you get a 'bottoming tap'

 

There's cheaper ones out there but here's an example:

https://www.amazon.com/Drill-America-AB14X2-Flute-Bottoming/dp/B00DLCWO5S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1471741804&sr=8-2&keywords=M14+bottoming+tap

Most any hardware store will have the correct 6mm x 1.25 tap for that hole. May be invest in a Tap set at Sears or Harbor Fright.

I already have a set of taps and helicoils (with helicoil) tap ready to go. If I already have to drill tap for the helicoil, why not just drill and tap for larger bolt?

helicoils are much stronger than aluminum threads so there's less chance of chewing them up. A lot of STI owners had to do this with the aluminum Brembo calipers.

Calipers are a lot different then a BOV.

All you need to do is snug the bolt, the O-ring seals the pressure not the bolt.

If you drill all the way through the tmic, you might want to put a little RTV on the bolt threads. I don't recall if the GS tmic has through holes or not.

The holes are through the outer shell and terminate on the inside of the unit.

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1/4" bolt is still too small. Looks like I'll have to go even bigger if I go that route.

5/16" bolt may mean drilling out the holes on the BPV as well.

I did get Grimmspeed involved and am awaiting their response/advice.

Oh, yea just tap for a 1/4" bolt, I think they are just the next step up from 6mm ?

This is wrong on so many levels.

You don't tap a 100% metric car for a standard bolt unless absolutely necessary, much less a $900 intercooler that would greatly diminish its resale value.

A helicoil will be stronger than the original threads. Apply a little RTV or thread lock compound when threading the coils in to seal them up and to prevent them from ever backing out.

The stock BOV has an oring aftermarket ones do not. The BOV is also a common source for leaks when it's not installed correctly.

The fact the GS intercooler is not helicoiled from the factory is a little surprising.

It definitely is not helicoiled from the factory but according to grimmspeed the studs come pre-installed using "thread sealant" which I didn't see a trace of.

They seemed eager to help and if they recommend helicoil with loctite then that's what I'll do.

For some reason I'm hesitant to use a helicoil in case the loctite doesn't hold and the helicoil decides to make it's way into the intercooler and find its way to the turbo...

I was wondering if I had the airflow path correct in my head. Guess not.

My ignorance not withstanding....catastrophic events could occur from the tmic ingesting a helicoil.

At least with drilling and tapping a larger size a bolt will never end up inside my TMIC.

Thats my thought process anyway. Still waiting on GS reply.

helicoil is the answer. Why is this thread so long?

Max Capacity is why....

This is wrong on so many levels.

 

You don't tap a 100% metric car for a standard bolt unless absolutely necessary, much less a $900 intercooler that would greatly diminish its resale value.

 

A helicoil will be stronger than the original threads. Apply a little RTV or thread lock compound when threading the coils in to seal them up and to prevent them from ever backing out.

 

The stock BOV has an oring aftermarket ones do not. The BOV is also a common source for leaks when it's not installed correctly.

 

The fact the GS intercooler is not helicoiled from the factory is a little surprising.

I guess you would hate to hear that I use a 3/8 hardware to hold my mid pipe to the DP.