Rear Control Arms (Upper) Question

So, I've located a pretty bad squeak to the rear control arms, upper. When replacing these, should I use the OEM ones, or find a pair of used Spec B? The spec B's look lighter and are obviously more expensive. Worth it? Or not? The OEM's look more robust. Also, if I did go with used ones, should I replace the bushings?

 

Is there anything else I should be replacing with these? And is it something I should attempt by myself? I've heard you need an alignment afterwards. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

The easiest thing is to get the arms from Megan racing. Cheapest is replace the bushings from Subaru. Next is complete arms from Subaru. You should get an alignment but there isn't much to align in the rear. The Megan arms are very adjustible.

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2005_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD-GT-Wagon/Suspension-Control-Arm-Rear/49229177/20250AE01A.html

 

Talking about these right?

 

I had that previously, replaced them with the full OEM arms.

I just pulled them out after about 30k miles to replace with a set of Megans.

I'll send them to you for $50 if you need them.

 

I wouldn't go with just bushings, too much hassle and chance of not having it done simply.

I would either get a replacement set of OEM or Megan or Whiteline depending on if you want/need to adjust camber and your budget.

I went with Whiteline ones and would NOT recommend it. Only thing I got from it was more NVH and noticed zero handling differences. Little bit more NVH, but not much. Mostly just felt that the ride was stiffer for rear passengers and no benefits.

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2005_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD-GT-Wagon/Suspension-Control-Arm-Rear/49229177/20250AE01A.html

 

Talking about these right?

 

I had that previously, replaced them with the full OEM arms.

I just pulled them out after about 30k miles to replace with a set of Megans.

I'll send them to you for $50 if you need them.

 

I wouldn't go with just bushings, too much hassle and chance of not having it done simply.

I would either get a replacement set of OEM or Megan or Whiteline depending on if you want/need to adjust camber and your budget.

 

The ones I am referring to are these..

 

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2005_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD-GT-Wagon/Suspension-Control-Arm-Right--Rear--Upper/49500864/20250AE021.html

So maybe these are the ones I need? Looks like an alignment is needed. Cheaper than the OEM ones.

 

https://meganracing.com/catalog/product/view/id/1593/s/mrs-su-0511-02/

Are you sure those are the ones that are squeaking?

 

The problem with the megan arms is that you lose the bumpstop that is built into the OEM arm.

From what I can tell, those are intended for people with coilovers that already have a bumpstop built in.

 

If those are the source of the squeak, then I would go OEM.

Maybe find a set for really cheap and get new bushings, but by the time you piece it all together, it's probably similar price/easier just to buy the full OEM arm.

Edited June 24, 2020 by Infosecdad

I went with Whiteline ones and would NOT recommend it. Only thing I got from it was more NVH and noticed zero handling differences. Little bit more NVH, but not much. Mostly just felt that the ride was stiffer for rear passengers and no benefits.

 

arms on their own wouldnt give you much of a handling change at all if all else remains the same. and of course, aftermarket arms will have stiffer bushings in them so more NVH should be expected.

Are you sure those are the ones that are squeaking?

 

The problem with the megan arms is that you lose the bumpstop that is built into the OEM arm.

From what I can tell, those are intended for people with coilovers that already have a bumpstop built in.

 

If those are the source of the squeak, then I would go OEM.

Maybe find a set for really cheap and get new bushings, but by the time you piece it all together, it's probably similar price/easier just to buy the full OEM arm.

 

Yeah, when you rock the rear of the car back and forth, and listen from underneath with a stethoscope, that's where the squeak is coming from. I tried to spray it with silicone but nothing helped.

 

To me the OEM looked more robust, and I honestly have stock ride height and suspension. Well, I think my alignment guy might have put Spec B front control arms in. They look pretty sweet, and were expensive enough.. That might be irrelevant tho. I can't really see the advantage of putting Spec B's back there.

Yeah, when you rock the rear of the car back and forth, and listen from underneath with a stethoscope, that's where the squeak is coming from. I tried to spray it with silicone but nothing helped.

 

To me the OEM looked more robust, and I honestly have stock ride height and suspension. Well, I think my alignment guy might have put Spec B front control arms in. They look pretty sweet, and were expensive enough.. That might be irrelevant tho. I can't really see the advantage of putting Spec B's back there.

 

The spec-b arms might help you drop a pound or two, but you aren't at the point of weight reduction where you would notice.

If you are stock and you are good with your current alignment settings in the rear, sounds like OEM is the best bet for you.

The spec-b arms might help you drop a pound or two, but you aren't at the point of weight reduction where you would notice.

If you are stock and you are good with your current alignment settings in the rear, sounds like OEM is the best bet for you.

 

So, it's likely I wouldn't need an alignment? I could just swap them out with complete fresh units and be good? Might it be a pain to get them free?

So, it's likely I wouldn't need an alignment? I could just swap them out with complete fresh units and be good? Might it be a pain to get them free?

 

I was more referring to not needing an adjustable arm there.

I *don't* think that arm is adjustable, meaning if you replace it, I don't think it'll do much to your alignment.

Someone can correct me if I'm mistaken, but I think the factory adjustment is with a different arm; they are fairly limited in stock config.

 

Unbolting and rebolting will probably change the alignment, but whether or not enough to need a realignment, I'm not sure.

if you got stock replacement, or spec-b and your existing arms weren't bent at all, then yes, you would not need an alignment because no alignment angles would have changed. the upper arm is not an OE alignment adjustment point.

 

If i were you though, id take the opportunity to install the whiteline KCA399 bushings for the upper arm while you have it out to getrear camber adjustment, and then go get it aligned. these cars don't have OE rear camber adjustments so if you have the opportunity to add it, do so.

Id swap in new oem. Aftermarket is just going to add nvh.

 

It's possible to have the bolts stick. I'd get PB Blaster and start spraying all the bolts/nuts liberally. Shearing a rusty bolt will ruin yer day

arms on their own wouldnt give you much of a handling change at all if all else remains the same. and of course, aftermarket arms will have stiffer bushings in them so more NVH should be expected.

 

I should clarify: I just did Whiteline rear upper control arm bushings throughout the entire control arm. I would do OEM again instead if I could go back. I have tons of other suspension mods and didn't notice anything different in the characteristics of the handling apart from a stiffer rear end going over bumps and slightly more NVH. It got rid of the crazy amount of squeaking though

I should clarify: I just did Whiteline rear upper control arm bushings throughout the entire control arm. I would do OEM again instead if I could go back. I have tons of other suspension mods and didn't notice anything different in the characteristics of the handling apart from a stiffer rear end going over bumps and slightly more NVH. It got rid of the crazy amount of squeaking though

 

That squeaking is horrible! I feel like a 500 lb guy everytime I get in the car or go over a bump:lol: I swear I'm only 1/2 that! It'll be worth it, I'll do it!

Ok, now how about just replacing the bushings? I see that's a lot cheaper than replacing the big metal piece... Would I need a special tool for that? Are there DIY tool diagrams out there? Or is it best to replace the entire unit?

Scenario A: Buy the complete unit

Pro: Simpler to replace, just remove the old one, put new on in place. Shorter down time.

Con: Costs a little more

 

Scenario B: Buy bushings

Pro: Cheaper (maybe, probably need to buy a press or pay someone to do it)

Cons: Longer time, greater chance of messing something up.

Note: Would need to remove the arms, press out the bushings making sure not to damage the arms. Then press in the new bushings, again being careful. If you don't have it already, would need a press and some sockets or similar that are the same size as the bushings for pressing in and out. Sometimes can drill/cut out old bushings, sometimes not. Should definitely have some form of transportation if more tools are needed or if something is messed up and you have to wait for parts.

 

Sometimes I'll run Scenario B because I like to use it as an excuse to accumulate tools.

Sometimes I run Scenario A because I don't have time to muck around and I can afford to pick up a direct replacement.

Edited June 25, 2020 by Infosecdad

+1 for scenario B.

My wife now asks me how much the tools cost vs going to the dealer.

+1 for scenario B.

My wife now asks me how much the tools cost vs going to the dealer.

 

Mine quit asking which I'm not sure is a good thing or not...

Mine quit asking which I'm not sure is a good thing or not...

 

Ever since I convinced her a 2-post lift was necessary for something, she's called bs on just about everything else.

Scenario A: Buy the complete unit

Pro: Simpler to replace, just remove the old one, put new on in place. Shorter down time.

Con: Costs a little more

 

Scenario B: Buy bushings

Pro: Cheaper (maybe, probably need to buy a press or pay someone to do it)

Cons: Longer time, greater chance of messing something up.

Note: Would need to remove the arms, press out the bushings making sure not to damage the arms. Then press in the new bushings, again being careful. If you don't have it already, would need a press and some sockets or similar that are the same size as the bushings for pressing in and out. Sometimes can drill/cut out old bushings, sometimes not. Should definitely have some form of transportation if more tools are needed or if something is messed up and you have to wait for parts.

 

Sometimes I'll run Scenario B because I like to use it as an excuse to accumulate tools.

Sometimes I run Scenario A because I don't have time to muck around and I can afford to pick up a direct replacement.

 

I was thinking about removing it myself and having a shop do the push out/press, depending on what they would charge. I know I could also rent a tool kit to push/press, but all the stores I'm checking don't have it available. Scenario B seems like the way to go.. Thanks!

I did B when replacing everything on the race car. I bought a hf 20 T press with a coupon. Then a couple of socket sets to use as dies. You can buy dies that are spaced 1mm like a real shop at real shop prices. I found a local machinist in my neighborhood who made custom dies for the rear arms.

 

If/when I have to do it again, I'll cough up the money to buy the dies. Its so much quicker with the right tools

I see HF has a Maddox ball joint service kit for $89. Then an adapter kit for 69.99 but it's hard to justify that price. How often am I going to use that?... There's also cheaper options at questionable "retailers" like ZORZERO and ALLMAX, but they look "fishy." Almost like they're used in the pictures. WallyWorld has a generic one for $85. Looks pretty solid, all the adapters and I won't have to risk using sockets. I kinda like the idea of buying from WW, if anything goes wrong, I can take it back.. Maybe I'll pull the trigger and do it.

 

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Universal-21PCS-Ball-Joint-Service-Tool-Set-Auto-Repair-Press-Remover-Removal-Separator-Installing-Install-Master-Adapter-C-Frame-Kit-Blue/188745237?selected=true

Yeah, the Bushings and hardware cost about $70 picked up at the local Scooby Doo dealership. I haven't really saved any money yet, from just doing the bushings, because I did buy the 21 piece deluxe kit. But if I were to get the entire suspension piece,(Option A) I'd still need new hardware. That hardware just looks super crusty. It's also mind boggling how many bushings there are back there. I'm almost certain I'll need the toolkit again in the future. thanks for all the advice!