vanman Posted October 22, 2020 Author Share Posted October 22, 2020 (edited) Finally got the heads off. I found a machine shop in OKC that would do them for $400 for the pair plus parts. It'll probably end up being about the same but they come recommended by a Subaru performance shop. I tried to submit some pictures but I didn't have a security token or something like that. I didn't see anything in #1 that looked any different than the other 3. Edited October 22, 2020 by vanman More info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 Let them do their thing and they should come back to you to let you know which valves may need to be replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanman Posted October 22, 2020 Author Share Posted October 22, 2020 (edited) Is this anything to worry about? This is cylinder 1 https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipPK8tC4RoRQKpRjTlCFLQLlALqScC5DzGsv4lBo Edited October 22, 2020 by vanman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 I can't see the picture. did you share that picture to the machinist too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanman Posted October 22, 2020 Author Share Posted October 22, 2020 I won't take them until next week. I'll be sure to ask him Anything else I should do to the short block while it's on the engine stand? TGV deletes, oil pan, pickups? Other cylinders, I don't know if they'll show up. https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNcyH96ENHsHefVJ5t5u0g9t6bjq4WGNWmvZFDk https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNDma1yD1nupltjLsYF9xGG6MHy6v0JO_mDzQhm https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOC_iZMxnntmDgFtClE46RQG3V7mOa4gcsk0WbW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 Still can't see the pics . Permission issue? mmh, as to what to do on the shortblock, I would definitely change the oil pick up tube and replace the oem one with maybe the one from Moroso. I had one oem pick up tube crack at the weld. I was glad I caught it before it killed my engine. Have you ever changed the water pump? May be time to do it. change with oem. Same for the thermostat. TGV delete is up to you. I did not do it but maybe I should have done it. Rear main seal on the block looks fine? No leak there? Perhaps send the injectors for check/cleaning? Replace the pcv valve too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanman Posted October 23, 2020 Author Share Posted October 23, 2020 Let me try this: Cylinder 1 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xaB39aH7hcsmRnGPD1md_CvarqIjHPKG/view?usp=sharing Cylinder 3 https://drive.google.com/file/d/19DhF7hSP-IRJfn4jd7kX4L8WL20OjF4Q/view?usp=sharing Cylinder 2 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1d2yMY3NMoRxdH_gOreSTFzg3-AdQCxg_/view?usp=sharing Cylinder 4 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1N5urd-BbIEEUJtc5bND35aM9_azOCKb2/view?usp=sharing right sided heads - notice the broken exhaust cam sprocket https://drive.google.com/file/d/1c2tAnCfkaaBztAvm0vSNs_kL5FiC7gaz/view?usp=sharing left sided heads https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MUmfP60h1cpWjWB_qKviwlWVgTY8UmhU/view?usp=sharing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted October 28, 2020 Share Posted October 28, 2020 It doesn't look too bad, but you need to check that all the valves are OK and are sealing properly when closed. Also check that the heads aren't warped. Quite a bit of soot in some places, but that's not a big deal, but indicates that you might have some excess oil entering the combustion chamber so anything from PCV valve to valve stem seals should be taken care of. Then clean out the intake and exhaust ports from soot. Also flush out the oil channels. That might require some solvent to dissolve accumulated residue. Injector check/cleaning is also a good idea. One bad injector and you'll get a burnt valve or a toast cat. Finish it up with checking the valve clearances and put in new camshaft seals, that's relatively easy at this stage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanman Posted October 31, 2020 Author Share Posted October 31, 2020 (edited) I was going to take the heads to the machine shop this week and also have them look at the short block but kids and wife got sick so it'll be next week now. Do I check the injectors or do I take them somewhere to get checked and cleaned. And any recommendations who I would send to? Edited October 31, 2020 by vanman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanman Posted November 3, 2020 Author Share Posted November 3, 2020 Now, I've noticed the inner CV boots are cracked as well as the PS boot. We'll change these out but is there any reason why I can't just use a hose clamp on these. I think the clamps that come with it requires a tool? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 3, 2020 Share Posted November 3, 2020 You can use https://www.deatschwerks.com/support/services/injector-services for injector cleaning/inspection. As for the CV boots, I would advise to keep your OEM axles (if they still are) and simply reboot them using a genuine reboot kit from subaru. I just did that a week ago (for the 10th time maybe...) 28397AG000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 3, 2020 Share Posted November 3, 2020 The latest CV boot kit from Subaru comes with clamps which do not require any specific tool. Much better than previous design IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted November 3, 2020 Share Posted November 3, 2020 The latest CV boot kit from Subaru comes with clamps which do not require any specific tool. Much better than previous design IMO.You don't happen to have a part # do yah? Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 3, 2020 Share Posted November 3, 2020 I posted it above. ---> 28397AG000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted November 3, 2020 Share Posted November 3, 2020 Doh, sorry....missed that. Thanks. Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 Now, I've noticed the inner CV boots are cracked as well as the PS boot. We'll change these out but is there any reason why I can't just use a hose clamp on these. I think the clamps that come with it requires a tool? With hose clamps you have to consider two things. 1. The clamp shall not hit anything during the rotation. 2. You need two that are linking on opposite sides to keep the balance. Using OEM is a better alternative though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 I've used heavy duty zip ties before Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 There are bands that do not require the special pliers. I think Autozone had them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted November 5, 2020 Share Posted November 5, 2020 The boots appear to be good on mine, just getting a weep from the inboard clamps on both sides. It would be nice to just reclamp them. Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 5, 2020 Share Posted November 5, 2020 I've done that as well (i.e. just a reclamp while cv is on the car). I also used a syringe to squeeze fresh grease in the boots just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted November 6, 2020 Share Posted November 6, 2020 I've used heavy duty zip ties before Whatever rocks your boat! I'm just worrying about the aging properties of zip ties and the ability to get them tight enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted November 6, 2020 Share Posted November 6, 2020 I'm approaching oil change time. I will take a look at how to best tackle this. Leaning towards new clamps. I even have metal zip ties and the crimping tool if I can get it in there. Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanman Posted November 8, 2020 Author Share Posted November 8, 2020 We still haven’t taken the heads to the machine shop. My son got Covid and I suspect I have it. We both had headaches, body aches and fever. He is completely over it and hopefully it’s turning the corner for me. Since we’ve be held up and I’ve had some time to think. I was wondering is it worth trying to get more power out of the engine since it out now. First question is how strong is the 5eat? If not that strong, then maybe back to stock is best. How would the 5eat hold up to tgv deleletes, bigger injectors, new tmic and a cold air intake. How much HP gain do think I’d get from this? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanman Posted November 13, 2020 Author Share Posted November 13, 2020 I turns out I do have covid. In fact 7 of 7 in my family got it. The kids had for 2-3 days and they were done. For me, it been going on for a week, but it's not the worse that I've ever felt. In any case, I had some time to do some research and I looked up what was involved in doing a head job. After review, I decided that we could do that ourselves. The worse that could happen is that we'd still have to take the heads to a machine shop. First thing we did was a leak test on the valves. We filled the valve side of the cylinder head with water and looked for leaks. There were none. We then directed compressed air into the intake and exhast separately. Intake 1 had a lot of air coming out of it. The remainder had some air coming out but not as much. Conclusion is intake valves 1 need replacing. The remaining valves need lapping. We took the valves out and visible they all looked the same. I chucked the valves on to a drill and watched the valve end carefully as they spun. They were all perfectly straight except intake valves 1, there was a slight wobble at the valves. Conclusion intake valves 1 bent. We've lapped the driver side head but nobody can get out to go to the dealer to buy 2 intake valves for the passenger side. My sons quaranttine is up today so I'll send him out to get valves and valve stem seals. We've measured the cylinder head surface and it had a gap of 0.03 mm. I believe this isslight off spec. I think it should be 0.02 mm or less. So we sanded thee head surface with 220 grit sandpaper. Problably put 100 strokes in it. It now is less than 0.015 mm. Next, we'll power wash everything. I'll put it in the oven to dry overnite at 200 degrees and we'll start putting back together. Anything I missed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanman Posted December 5, 2020 Author Share Posted December 5, 2020 We order 2 intake valves from parts.subaru.com on 11/13 and I just got them yesterday. Never again We lapped the remaining valves on the passenger side today. We’ll power wash them tomorrow. I order the gasket set and the timing belt and water pump kit today. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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