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Brake pad and rotor change


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Was wondering what is fair amount for the brake pad and rotor change price?

 

Parts come to 392$ appx. Dealer is charging around 390$ for labor to replace rotors and pads - front and rear. If I do it outside it's 400$ altogether with ceramic pads. Some generic rotors.

 

Is the 800$ appx fair price?

 

Front and rear rotors - 66 x 4

Front pads - 66

Rear pads - 62

 

It's hard to believe within 3 years front rotors have gone bad. Rear rotors are fine.

 

He recommended to change front rotors and resurface rear ones and change pads on all even though I have 4mm left on front. If front pads are getting stuck in caliper then shouldn't pads wear down fast as well? Rear pads are at 2mm.

 

I don't drive rough so i am curious if this dealer is saying truth or just making up.

 

PS They are charging 130$/hr labor price. 90 mins - front / 90 mins - rear.

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IMHO too early for fronts unless you are really hard on brakes.. on my 2014 legacy I am at 46K and they are still very beefy pad wise. Ironically I had to do the rears as 40K...

 

Dealer tech said - pads are getting stuck in caliper in front and hence need to replace rotors on front. My only concern is if front pads are getting stuck then how come it's still on 4mm? Somehow analysis doesn't make sense to me and hence concern.

 

Rear rotors require resurfacing. So if I just do resurfacing on back then it's 280$ for rear. Will save 130$ appx. But with resurfacing - how long it will go?

 

I am not hard on paddle or brakes, i just do 90% freeway drive.

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The issue related to re-surfacing is that you’re making the rotor thinner. There is a minimum specification outlined by the service manual for the thickness of the rotor. Sometimes it is more cost-efficient to just replace the rotor, rather than paying for the labor to resurface it. When rotors are thinner, they are more susceptible to damage from heat, such as warping.

 

There are many people on the forums, especially the outback forums, that have said that as long as you can get to the pads before it hits the backing plate, all you really need to do is change the pads. Again, this is all good as long as the rotor is at the appropriate thickness.

 

I personally don’t know what kind of brake pads the OEM quality stuff is, but I’ve heard that ceramic is the most gentle on your rotors, but they don’t last as long.

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Thats a very fair price for dealer work and parts. There is no set mileage for when your brakes go bad. Depends on driving style and conditions.

 

Not concerned about brake pads - I am OK changing pads but asking to change rotor also bothers me a bit seeing i have 4mm life left on front brake pads. I normally change it at 2mm. My concern was if pad's are that stuck then how come they still have 4mm left? Pads would be first one to go bad.

 

I have hardly seen 1 and half hour labor changing rotors and pad. Normally it's less then an hour and hence wondering if it's fair price or not.

 

Normally before I always paid 100$/hr and my parts to any good garage shop. First time thinking to do at dealer, normally, I wouldn't.

 

Just curious, whats wrong with front rotors? Are they warped?

 

I don't think so. Nothing of warping is mentioned on the list.

 

Only this is mentioned "Upon inspection of brakes found front brake pads at 4MM. Found brake pads stuck in caliper brackets causing rotor to overheat and creating a large ridge in rotor. "

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IMHO too early for fronts unless you are really hard on brakes.. on my 2014 legacy I am at 46K and they are still very beefy pad wise. Ironically I had to do the rears as 40K...

 

I did mine at 37k. I got the car used and had some pretty bad pulsation at the pedal. The tech told me that they were pretty thin to resurface. And since I ride them decently hard, I didn't want to take any chances on a critical component.

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Not concerned about brake pads - I am OK changing pads but asking to change rotor also bothers me a bit seeing i have 4mm life left on front brake pads. I normally change it at 2mm. My concern was if pad's are that stuck then how come they still have 4mm left? Pads would be first one to go bad.

 

I have hardly seen 1 and half hour labor changing rotors and pad. Normally it's less then an hour and hence wondering if it's fair price or not.

 

Normally before I always paid 100$/hr and my parts to any good garage shop. First time thinking to do at dealer, normally, I wouldn't.

 

 

 

I don't think so. Nothing of warping is mentioned on the list.

 

Only this is mentioned "Upon inspection of brakes found front brake pads at 4MM. Found brake pads stuck in caliper brackets causing rotor to overheat and creating a large ridge in rotor. "

 

Give me your car for 10 minutes and you'll have 2mm on your pads left.

 

You asked if $800 was a fair price for a full front and rear brake job at the dealer, using OEM parts. I told you its more than fair and you want to take issue with the tech's recommendation.

 

If you are so on top of things, bust out a wrench and do your own brake job. Otherwise, if you need someone else to take a look at your brakes, go ahead and take their word for it when they tell you that your rotor has a ridge in it.

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If the rotor is not completely flat then yes I agree with changing the rotor. If you want to do it yourself like you’re saying you’re comfortable doing, buy the OEM rotors and just swap them on. It’s a very simple straightforward thing. I suggest a copper anti seize stick used behind the rotor between it and the hub.
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I suggest a copper anti seize stick used ... between [the rotor] and the hub.

 

x2. Anti-seize is good. Otherwise, rotors tend to rust tight to the centering nose of the hub. Use it sparingly, though. You don't want it slinging out and contaminating the rotor surface.

"If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland)

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If the rotor is not completely flat then yes I agree with changing the rotor. If you want to do it yourself like you’re saying you’re comfortable doing, buy the OEM rotors and just swap them on. It’s a very simple straightforward thing. I suggest a copper anti seize stick used behind the rotor between it and the hub.

 

Thank you. Will give it a shot. My friend is visiting me on next weekend and I would give it a try doing it myself. Ordered the rear rotors and pads. Found the basic video on how to do it.

 

 

 

You asked if $800 was a fair price for a full front and rear brake job at the dealer, using OEM parts. I told you its more than fair and you want to take issue with the tech's recommendation.

 

If you are so on top of things, bust out a wrench and do your own brake job. Otherwise, if you need someone else to take a look at your brakes, go ahead and take their word for it when they tell you that your rotor has a ridge in it.

 

Relax.

 

Just because one technician told me at dealer, I would need new front rotors doesn't mean I need it. I went to another Subaru dealer and they mentioned front pads and rotors are perfectly fine and confirmed their is no issues with it.

 

This is the reason forums like this exist, where you can ask for help or review from other people when you are not sure. And yes, I am on top of my things but my knowledge in car repair is limited and hence the questions.

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Thank you. Will give it a shot. My friend is visiting me on next weekend and I would give it a try doing it myself. Ordered the rear rotors and pads. Found the basic video on how to do it.

 

 

 

 

Relax.

 

Just because one technician told me at dealer, I would need new front rotors doesn't mean I need it. I went to another Subaru dealer and they mentioned front pads and rotors are perfectly fine and confirmed their is no issues with it.

 

This is the reason forums like this exist, where you can ask for help or review from other people when you are not sure. And yes, I am on top of my things but my knowledge in car repair is limited and hence the questions.

 

Keep in mind that the 6th gen uses an electronic parking brake (EPB). There is another thread on here on how to handle the retraction without the scan tool, but basically, you will need to disconnect the negative cable on your batter, unplug the harness at the EPB sensor, and use a legitimate claliper retraction tool to depress the piston.

 

The video above shows a 5th gen with a drum parking brake set-up.

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... I would give it a try doing it myself. Ordered the rear rotors and pads.

... my knowledge in car repair is limited and hence the questions.

Keep in mind that the 6th gen uses an electronic parking brake (EPB) ... basically, you will need to disconnect the negative cable on your batter, unplug the harness at the EPB sensor, and use a legitimate claliper retraction tool to depress the piston.

 

This is worth repeating. I definitely wouldn't recommend MY 2015-2018 Legacy/Outback rear brakes as a DIY project for someone with little or no experience. There's too much opportunity for expensive mistakes. Consider also that brakes are a critical safety system. Better to hire someone who's been there before and observe the process closely.

"If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland)

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Keep in mind that the 6th gen uses an electronic parking brake (EPB). There is another thread on here on how to handle the retraction without the scan tool, but basically, you will need to disconnect the negative cable on your batter, unplug the harness at the EPB sensor, and use a legitimate claliper retraction tool to depress the piston.

 

The video above shows a 5th gen with a drum parking brake set-up.

 

This is worth repeating. I definitely wouldn't recommend MY 2015-2018 Legacy/Outback rear brakes as a DIY project for someone with little or no experience. There's too much opportunity for expensive mistakes. Consider also that brakes are a critical safety system. Better to hire someone who's been there before and observe the process closely.

 

Thank you guys for the heads up. My friend used to work as Sr Tech at Toyota so I guess, he would know about it. If he is not comfortable, I would go and get done at dealer.

 

Once again thank you for the help.

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Thank you guys for the heads up. My friend used to work as Sr Tech at Toyota so I guess, he would know about it. If he is not comfortable, I would go and get done at dealer.

 

Once again thank you for the help.

 

Do you mind doing a nice DIY video and pics if you do end up doing the rear yourself? There was another member that posted some pics, but I couldn't really gather much from it.

 

I'd like to do this myself the next time around with slotted and dipped rotors.

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Do you mind doing a nice DIY video and pics if you do end up doing the rear yourself? There was another member that posted some pics, but I couldn't really gather much from it.

 

I'd like to do this myself the next time around with slotted and dipped rotors.

 

If my friend is ok with it, sure. I will take the video/photos and share it here. My only suggestion to you would be get an opinion from at least 3 dealer before doing anything.

 

1st Dealer Mitchel Subaru - Change rare brake pads.

 

2st dealer Suburban Subaru - Front brakes are in bad shapes and you would end up screwing everything if you drive 1 mile more.

03.09.2018-12.20.19

 

3rd dealer Bertera Subaru up-sell -

03.09.2018-11.40.49

 

Asking me to change Cabin filter which I just did yesterday mentioning it's super dirty. Fuel injection service at 55K miles. He did confirmed though that their is no issue with front breaks - no stuck, bad pads/rotors and pads are at 6MM.

 

I just follow this maintenance schedule -

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/maintenance-2015.html

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Duh...

 

Guys...

 

You dont need to worry about the SSM and setting the brakes into service mode. The FSM covers its: just disconnect the battery, unplug the harness at the EPB, wedge open the caliper and the rest is just like a regular brake job:

 

 

Anyway, the key is to disconnect the battery and unplug the EPB, everything else is like a regular brake job - you dont need the $2,000 Subaru tool to command the ABS module to do anything.

 

Hope this helps.

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  • 3 months later...
After using the tool to push the piston back and installing the new discs and pads, do you need to use a tool or anything to get the piston back to its original position? Or do you just reconnect the EPB, turn the car on, and it resets itself?
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After using the tool to push the piston back and installing the new discs and pads, do you need to use a tool or anything to get the piston back to its original position?

From Subaru tech training materials (module 926, June 2014, page 140):

When the SSM III is not used (In shops that do not have the SSM III):

After removing the pad, turn the piston clockwise (release direction) with the piston rotating tool.

...

After installing the pad, operate the foot brake to move the piston to proper position. Operate the EPB 5 times or more (with the parking brake switch) to move the ball screw to the proper position. (It is prohibited to push the piston out with the EPB and not with the foot brake).

I think the requirement to apply the foot brake first is to ensure that the brake hydraulic system remains under positive pressure. Otherwise, there is the possibility of sucking air into the system.

"If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland)

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I know I'm late to the game, but 3 year 36,000 warranty on the brakes.

 

Is a 15 the same, "From the 2016 Legacy/Outback Warranty & Maintenance Guide you should have received with your new Legacy, page 4:"

 

Wear Item Limited Warranty

WEAR ITEM COVERAGE is 3 years or 36,000 miles, whichever comes first.

Items covered are brake pad/shoe linings, clutch linings, and wiper blades.

 

Got that from another thread in this forum. Post 30

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/rear-brake-job-6th-gen-250086.html

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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