What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4

What happened there? Hit a chunk of ice? Bummer!

Likely, I was bombing through 2-3 foot snowdrifts.

Does anybody have a suggestion how to repair that crack? I was thinking of just expoxing it from the back side for now.... How bad of an idea is this?

I drove it for the first time in weeks. Feels good to drive the car again

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And my second project today: carbon fiber ez lip under my Bayson lip, with brackets to improve the shape of the corners. I initially installed this ez lip two nights ago, and was on the fence about it keeping it or not. I loved the silver-black-silver contrast, but the way the corners drooped down really irked me and looked a bit crappy and cheap, and it was honestly driving me nuts. Then I had a spark of inspiration, and found this 4-pack of zinc brackets at Lowes, and used them to brace the corners up, and it worked perfectly. The screws are also just short enough to not pierce the top edge of the Bayson lip too. Compare the before and after pics, the difference is small, but it makes such a night and day difference in the shape. Where I was on the verge of removing the lip, I'm now super satisfied with how it came out. Looks much more like an actual lip than just a piece of rubber stuck to my bumper (even though that's what it is ). Not everyone's cup of tea, I acknowledge, but I think I managed to make something unique and interesting given our limited options of front end stuff, and for $20 for the lip roll and $2.50 for the brackets, I'm pretty please with the outcome.

Link me? If there is an all black one I would be all over it.

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Link me? If there is an all black one I would be all over it.

 

 

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This is the specific one I used here, the color looked pretty black in the picture, but it ended up more silvery (which was actually a plus for the look I wanted): https://www.ebay.com/itm/142079537999.

Not sure if you're looking for carbon or just flat black, but if you search "ez lip" or "carbon ez lip" on ebay, there's tons of results for all types and colors. Seems that most of the ones with a glossy finish are all carbon-look though.

Installed new wheels, nameless axleback exhaust and carbon fiber emblem overlays, it’s amazing how much of a difference new wheels makes

Thinking of buying the sti short throw shifter , if I do will it need a new boot ?

Thinking of buying the sti short throw shifter , if I do will it need a new boot ?

Poked around under my car a bit last night and spotted my front LCA in pretty poor shape, kudos to 64k of Chicago roads & winters. This will definitely get replaced this year, probably just do the full LCAs since they're not that pricey and I'd like to eliminate the rust. Might do some aftermarket bushings too. It's not really problematic yet, no extra clunky of noise, but I'd rather get out in front of it before it becomes a problem.

Poked around under my car a bit last night and spotted my front LCA in pretty poor shape, kudos to 64k of Chicago roads & winters. This will definitely get replaced this year, probably just do the full LCAs since they're not that pricey and I'd like to eliminate the rust. Might do some aftermarket bushings too. It's not really problematic yet, no extra clunky of noise, but I'd rather get out in front of it before it becomes a problem.

 

My tears were worst on the inside on the poly rear bushings I removed, so the worst part could not be seen. Its almost like Subaru is designing them to fail around ~100k miles. Some people will say any tear is bad, but I am guessing that Subaru engineers designs so they can function with some rips. (The 5th Gen isn't the only Subaru with these type of bushings) I wonder if Subaru design those bushings for planned obsolesce so that it forces owner to replace the ball joints.

Anyways, I would do the poly 2 piece rear bushings.

Finally back from vacation and got to take the car for a first drive on the twisties. It was one of the first warmer days around here at about 80 degrees. I went for about a 30/40 minute drive and stopped for some food. When I backed up slowly with the wheel turned I was getting some slipping and a clunk in the front, I believe. It did the same while going forward slow and turning the wheel. Kinda seemed like one wheel wanted to slip, like the limited sip wasn't working...? I guess either that or a CV joint.

I will be putting it on the rack this week and checking the diffs and the condition of the fluid in them.

I will also be putting on my rear brakes and new PS valve cover gasket this week as well.

Finally back from vacation and got to take the car for a first drive on the twisties. It was one of the first warmer days around here at about 80 degrees. I went for about a 30/40 minute drive and stopped for some food. When I backed up slowly with the wheel turned I was getting some slipping and a clunk in the front, I believe. It did the same while going forward slow and turning the wheel. Kinda seemed like one wheel wanted to slip, like the limited sip wasn't working...? I guess either that or a CV joint.

I will be putting it on the rack this week and checking the diffs and the condition of the fluid in them.

I will also be putting on my rear brakes and new PS valve cover gasket this week as well.

We don't have limited slip differentials. It sounds like your AWD is binding which usually would be the VC locking up.

I ended up replacing both front LCAs ~80K miles. Easy job.

No tears but @ 8 years old, the OE bushings were clearly aged, fatigued and showing early signs of rubber rot.

We don't have limited slip differentials. It sounds like your AWD is binding which usually would be the VC locking up.

Was talking to RikGT yesterday and he mentioned that apparently the 3.6R of our chassis Outback (BR) has rear LSD, which is something I had never heard before. Can anyone confirm if that's true or not? And if it is, would that be something that could swap into a 3.6R or GT Legacy, or would that be a massive undertaking and waste of effort?

Man, don't tell me about replacing LCA's right now, I still have to piece together the rest of it

But seriously, maybe I'll just do everything at once and get it aligned then call it a day. Ball joints, tie rods, LCA's, shocks, struts, springs, top hats. I guess my car and I are married, didn't even know

@HumbleRumble, I'm pretty sure neither us or the Outbacks have a LSD rear. It was either the 3.0R's or even older that did. Might be the oooold H6's. And don't quote me but our center diff with the 5EAT works like an LSD. It's a bunch of clutch packs that transfer power to the front and rears.

Edit: So it's not viscous but actually a hydraulic multi-plate clutch that's computer controlled. Interesting. Also CNET said we have an LSD on the 3.6R model but we use regular gear oil to replace the fluid so...that's a definite no.

Yup Tim you're right.

Humble - highly doubt it. The only thing that can be said which is true at least in some sense is that the USDM Legacy is effectively an Outback sedan or rather, shares most of the chassis configuration with the Outback.

Whereas the non-USDM Legacy/Liberty of the era is somewhat different.

Different steering rack, electric power steering, far more suspension differences, etc.

But even those non-USDM cars (from the 2L boxer diesel through EJ25s, FA20DITs to EZ36Ds) didn't get LSDs.

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2010.html

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2014.html

No real benefit of an LSD anyway when paired with the 5EAT slushbox and no DCCD.

Yup Tim you're right.

 

Humble - highly doubt it. The only thing that can be said which is true at least in some sense is that the USDM Legacy is effectively an Outback sedan or rather, shares most of the chassis configuration with the Outback.

 

Whereas the non-USDM Legacy/Liberty of the era is somewhat different.

Different steering rack, electric power steering, far more suspension differences, etc.

But even those non-USDM cars (from the 2L boxer diesel through EJ25s, FA20DITs to EZ36Ds) didn't get LSDs.

 

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2010.html

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2014.html

 

No real benefit of an LSD anyway when paired with the 5EAT slushbox and no DCCD.

That's what I figured, just wanted to be sure.

Tim: DO YOUR DANG SUSPENSION ALREADY. GTEASER WAS RIGHT, I SHOULD'VE DONE IT AS QUICK AS POSSIBLE.

looking to replace my arms... the rears are unidirectional if i'm not mistaken.

does this look right?.. from rock auto.

MEVOTECH CMS801172 Supreme

Rear Lower Rearward; Non Adjustable

MEVOTECH CMS801114 Supreme; Complete Arm w/ Ball Joint

Front Left Lower

MEVOTECH CMS801115 Supreme; Complete Arm w/ Ball Joint

Front Right Lower

Yup looks good - but on the rear why not go with some camber-adjustable LCAs?

They're about 2x the cost of the MEVOTECH but you'd benefit from an adjustable alignment in the back.

SPC or Whiteline parts fit. In fact any BRZ-destined parts fit.

Agree with Perscitus, might as well do camber adjustable arms. Go with SPC if you want to keep them OEM looking (they're black), or the Whitelines are essentially the same, both are around the same price point. I have Whitelines on mine, can get them for around $210/pair.

Whiteline: https://www.ebay.com/itm/172405005273

SPC: https://www.amazon.com/SPC-Performance-67660-Adjustable-Camber/dp/B00DJBPN8G

We don't have limited slip differentials. It sounds like your AWD is binding which usually would be the VC locking up.

So, the VC is the Viscous Coupling? That's basically the center diff?

I did a little searching, but didn't come up with much. Anyone have a link to a walk through or any info on the 5th gen?

Is it a failure of the unit or overheated fluid that needs to be changed?

The front suspension (such as a torn rear control bushing) could perhaps give similar symptoms, but when you said LSD didn't seem like it was working, my 1st instinct was the AWD center differential.

So, the VC is the Viscous Coupling? That's basically the center diff?

I did a little searching, but didn't come up with much. Anyone have a link to a walk through or any info on the 5th gen?

 

Is it a failure of the unit or overheated fluid that needs to be changed?

Viscous Coupler is a sealed unit, so one can not change the fluid in VC itself. If you did figure 8's in a parking lot and the wheel were hopping that you be a sign of failure. If its failing, do not continue to do that as it could damage the next weakest link in the driveline (ie front diff, rear diff or axles) Does your car have mismatch tire sizes or two new tires and two worn tires?

No, I have all 4 tires the same size, but don't know what it had on it before I got to it at 126,000 miles.

I heard/felt the noise when I had the wheel turned and moving either forward or reverse. Seemed like the inner/outer tire was slipping with a clunk after the slip of the wheel.

I can drive to work (about 10-12 min and never get over 60mph) and maneuver slowly into a parking spot without any noise. The sound only came after driving the car for 45min or so, which seemed like something heated up and caused the issue.

I'm leaning towards what your gut reaction was, dgoodhue and not a suspension part.

Agree with Perscitus, might as well do camber adjustable arms. Go with SPC if you want to keep them OEM looking (they're black), or the Whitelines are essentially the same, both are around the same price point. I have Whitelines on mine, can get them for around $210/pair.

 

Whiteline: https://www.ebay.com/itm/172405005273

SPC: https://www.amazon.com/SPC-Performance-67660-Adjustable-Camber/dp/B00DJBPN8G

Actually here's another option that I ironically just learned of right now from a RallySportDirect "hand picked for you based on your ride" email: SuperPro. Very similar design and pricepoint to both the SPCs and Whiteline, but in SuperPro's dark blue as well.

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/control-arms/spp-trc0011-super-pro-rear-lower-control-arm-kit