5EAT Ask your Questions!?!

Probably so... I vaguely remember JMP telling me switched to Amsoil full synthetic and started getting a little slippage in 3rd.

 

Really? Hmm. I switched to Amsoil the last time around (1k miles ago). We'll see. I have gotten a couple of things that maybe felt like slippage (not sure - my first auto car) in 3rd, although it was doing the same thing in 2nd before the flush, so maybe it's just holding the gear a little longer than expected - hard to know for sure.

 

(I have throttlehappy's torque-adjusting tune, so that also adjusts shifts somewhat)

I bought an 05 OBXT a little while back.

 

With the Hexmods valve body... if I put the trans in automanual mode, and bump the shift lever up or down, or press the shift buttons on the wheel, how much time elapses before the transmission actually shifts?

 

the HexMods doesn't change the delay from pressing the shift lever and the shift executing. it speeds up the actual gear change

Thanks. I guess that part would be harder, then.

Installed a raliteck 'comfort' trans bushing and new mount today.

 

Car already has group N engine mounts and pitch stop.

 

I would not install the bushing again, I'm getting a vibration through the peddles/floor now that's minorly annoying, and it didn't improve anything over the engine/pitch stop(would do again)

 

I'm with you. If it didn't require that much unbolting, I would yank mine out. Don't get me wrong, it's nice to feel what the transmission is doing and how it is shifting, but it's also not nice that you are getting NVH.

 

It felt cool a few years ago, now I've got two kids and a much more serious job, ain't nobody got time for this NVH bullshit.

Really? Hmm. I switched to Amsoil the last time around (1k miles ago). We'll see. I have gotten a couple of things that maybe felt like slippage (not sure - my first auto car) in 3rd, although it was doing the same thing in 2nd before the flush, so maybe it's just holding the gear a little longer than expected - hard to know for sure.

 

(I have throttlehappy's torque-adjusting tune, so that also adjusts shifts somewhat)

 

Yeah, same here. I've been running Amsoil fo 35K miles and like you, some shifts feel longer than with the OEM fluid, can't explain why.

 

As far as fluids, I don't think we're that hung up on the ATF-HP stuff anymore. We know that the Amsoil and Valvoline synthetic fluids are good and work just fine. Probably others out there too.

 

With the new lineatronic CVTs, it's the same thing. Thus far Subaru says only use the SOA CVT ATF, but some people are testing the territory with Redline and other stuff and it's been working great. I will likely go the same route.

 

If it's listed on the bottle as being compatible, you'll be fine.

I bought an 05 OBXT a little while back.

 

With the Hexmods valve body... if I put the trans in automanual mode, and bump the shift lever up or down, or press the shift buttons on the wheel, how much time elapses before the transmission actually shifts?

 

Are we still recommending Subaru ATF-HP for trans fluid? I'm going to be doing a flush and fill this weekend and want to stock up.

 

Yeah, same here. I've been running Amsoil fo 35K miles and like you, some shifts feel longer than with the OEM fluid, can't explain why.

 

As far as fluids, I don't think we're that hung up on the ATF-HP stuff anymore. We know that the Amsoil and Valvoline synthetic fluids are good and work just fine. Probably others out there too.

 

With the new lineatronic CVTs, it's the same thing. Thus far Subaru says only use the SOA CVT ATF, but some people are testing the territory with Redline and other stuff and it's been working great. I will likely go the same route.

 

If it's listed on the bottle as being compatible, you'll be fine.

 

This is basically it. I have seen a few manufacturers overstep their bounds with their list of compatible transmissions, but in general if a quality company says their fluid will work, then it most likely will. If not, you will notice.

 

There is no one perfect transmission fluid, or engine oil for that matter. People have their favorites that have worked well, and I have mine. Subaru HP is solid choice. Amsoil can be a bit more finicky, but it can also handle temperature better on both extremes, so I love it for that (many people with a Subaru live in cold winter climates, and then the 5EAT runs excessively hot in the summer unless you're cooling it properly with an extra cooler setup added on. Don't forget about Mobil 1 Full Synthetic ATF, also has worked well and is available locally, though I can't talk to it in as much detail having not daily driven it.

 

Separately, I have a suspicion that the Subaru ATF cooling system was designed around earlier and 4th gen base model transmission models that make a lot less heat. Then the 5EAT model never received any new or extra cooling provisions. Shame.

Edited February 27, 2016 by ClimberD@HexMods

I'm with you. If it didn't require that much unbolting, I would yank mine out. Don't get me wrong, it's nice to feel what the transmission is doing and how it is shifting, but it's also not nice that you are getting NVH.

 

It felt cool a few years ago, now I've got two kids and a much more serious job, ain't nobody got time for this NVH bullshit.

 

I will say this, The car use to change shape when launching, the front would lift by 2+ in(or feel like it did). With the gpn mounts and tranny bushing the car launches flat.

 

I've been using castrol transmax J in mine. It's available locally and is 'ok'ed' by subaru to use.

Installed a raliteck 'comfort' trans bushing and new mount today.

 

Car already has group N engine mounts and pitch stop.

 

I would not install the bushing again, I'm getting a vibration through the peddles/floor now that's minorly annoying, and it didn't improve anything over the engine/pitch stop(would do again)

 

I agree, I experienced the same thing, and it was unbearable for me especially in the winter. So, I pulled the whole trans mount from the car and drilled the blue bushing all over the place without drilling the black mount. I drilled straight holes, holes angled side ways. Whatever I could drill to make it softer, worked awesome! No more NVH, but still with the benefit of improved/connected feeling shifts.

Hi, this might seem a bit off topic because there are no threads about a 4 speed transmission. So anyway, my 09 Legacy 2.0 (yes its a 2.0, the only one sold in the PH) shifts really hard when it shifts in and out of 2 gear. By really hard, it jolts and shakes and I can't accelerate because of this. Because of this problem, the CEL has gone on and the cruise control is inaccessible. Hope you guys can help, because the car is rare in my country.

I agree, I experienced the same thing, and it was unbearable for me especially in the winter. So, I pulled the whole trans mount from the car and drilled the blue bushing all over the place without drilling the black mount. I drilled straight holes, holes angled side ways. Whatever I could drill to make it softer, worked awesome! No more NVH, but still with the benefit of improved/connected feeling shifts.

 

Installed the soft mount and i didnt get the same issues. Are you running other stiffer bushings ?

I will say this, The car use to change shape when launching, the front would lift by 2+ in(or feel like it did). With the gpn mounts and tranny bushing the car launches flat.

 

I've been using castrol transmax J in mine. It's available locally and is 'ok'ed' by subaru to use.

 

the car usually squats in the back when boost launching because of how the suspension works with the brakes. i dont see how changing bushings around the engine would change this.

I was on Whitelines website and they had the stiffer bushings for the Manuals but not the 5EAT. Then I found the Rallitek for the 5EAT. Is this the one you used, battelready? I'm curious if it would work on my 2011 Legacy. I get a clunk when I throttle hard and it's quite annoying. I also have the Whiteline Rear Diff inserts to do but want to know if this helps as well, without any NVH. This is my daily.

I was on Whitelines website and they had the stiffer bushings for the Manuals but not the 5EAT. Then I found the Rallitek for the 5EAT. Is this the one you used, battelready? I'm curious if it would work on my 2011 Legacy. I get a clunk when I throttle hard and it's quite annoying. I also have the Whiteline Rear Diff inserts to do but want to know if this helps as well, without any NVH. This is my daily.

 

Hmm, is it a 5EAT or a cvt? That is the one I got but if you want make sure it fits in the 2011, crawl under and look at the mount right under the transmission.

 

 

In other news, the pitch stop causes alot of NVH. But it helps the car feel whole when shifting.

My car has the 5EAT. I don't think the pitch stop would do much for me because I know this clunk happens in the rear of the car. I hear the stiffer diff bushings help but if the transmission has too much give as well, I'd like to address that. I guess I'll just do those first and see how well it works. I'm pretty sure that part would work, looking at my Subaru manual.

Installed the soft mount and i didnt get the same issues. Are you running other stiffer bushings ?

 

My was the Railtek comfort bushing too. Not sure why it gave me so much more NVH. Yes, I do have other stiffer bushings...whiteline trans craddle bushings, the rear diff inserts/bushing, whiteline steering rack, sways, AVO rear sway bracket, kartboy solid endlinks...maybe all these together had an effect. Regardless, after swiss cheesing the Railtek bushing, everything seems happier.

Anyone have a similar issue of shifting in and out of 2nd gear in their car ? I have a 4EAT

That's a common issue with the 4eat. It ether hard shifts 2-3 or it has a shift flare(RPMS keep climbing) 2-3 as it gets older.

 

I had good luck in my forester by doing a few ATF drain/fills with high mileage ATF and seafoam trans tune. After 2-3 months the problem went away.

That's a common issue with the 4eat. It ether hard shifts 2-3 or it has a shift flare(RPMS keep climbing) 2-3 as it gets older.

 

I had good luck in my forester by doing a few ATF drain/fills with high mileage ATF and seafoam trans tune. After 2-3 months the problem went away.

 

Was your CEL on and cruise control light blinking and inaccessible?

That is probably an un related issue.

That is probably an un related issue.

 

Oh ok, sorry about that. Because mine is related to my transmission problem.

Without knowing the code. It's probably unrelated.

Without knowing the code. It's probably unrelated.

 

It is the only problem with the car, but anyway thanks

It is the only problem with the car, but anyway thanks

Without knowing the code. It's probably unrelated.

Just placed my order! Can't wait!

This one came in a couple days ago:

 

Hi Dave,

I just purchased a set of your diff inserts. They were received quickly and in great shape, so thanks for those.

 

I can post this question in your "ask a 5eat question thread" if you'd rather answer there. Just let me know, it would be no problem to copy and post it. Anyway...

 

In about 3 weeks or so, I'm planning on rebuilding my 05 - 5EAT myself with a transgo kit and your diff bushings. I am not sure which rebuild kit to pick or if you are currently selling one.

 

What I have found is:

Precision International $420

Makco Transmission $600

Level 10 $600

IPT $830

 

I did call IPT asking about extra frictions, they were really helpful and took the time to chat with me for a bit. (they did say Precision was junk, lol.) I was initially thinking I would get the pistons turned at a local shop to add extra frictions, but after reading a bunch of R&D from KoukiS14 on LGT.com, I decided not to mess with that extra hassle.

 

I have done a bit of research and seen how to take it apart, replace packs, and check pack clearance(air it up with an indicator). I have a good amount of experience with precision engineering, quality inspection, sealing surfaces, etc. So I am not afraid to get in there, but I am not sure how much I am really going to need to replace. Are these kits overkill? Should I just replace burned packs when I find them? Do I really need to replace the steels? I just don't want to spend $800 when I really only need to get $200 - $250 in frictions.

 

The trans is slipping pretty good in 3rd, 4th, 5th. (I did post about this on LGT.com)

I would guess its only the clutch packs failing, I don't have any reason to believe its anything else.

The Lucas trans fix didn't really work, but thanks for the suggestion, it was worth a try.

 

Also I'd be willing to pay you for your time/knowledge while I work on my rebuild. I could shoot some video or pictures for you while I was in there, in case you needed something like that for any of your projects. If not, no big deal, I can just post any questions on LGT forums or pop into a local trans shop if I get stuck.

 

I'm guessing I'm currently at about 270-280hp with the upgraded JMP turbo. Would like to get to 300-350 someday, so I don't really need a monster trans. While I have the trans out I am going to clean up the heads and at least inspect, hone, and re-ring the block. (burning quite a bit of oil right now).

 

Thanks for taking the time to read this, a huge reply is not necessary. Mostly just wondering about a rebuild kit direction.

 

-J

 

J,

 

Here's my answer to your questions:

 

I have not yet gotten my hands on an IPT kit to measure and see what it's comprised of, so I cannot comment on it. I am not going to bother with Precision International, and I can't speak to it either. Same on down the line.

 

First principles: There are only a few companies who manufacture quality frictions, so most of the options you're seeing are the same frictions private labeled.

Steels are a little different. People can scan and laser cut any thickness of steel plate very easily, so you will see a little more variation in that department. But not a lot more.

 

Even at 300-350whp you do not need anything more than stock 5EAT quality.

 

The most important thing you can do to make your rebuild a success is to nail your clutch pack tolerances. That's why we were custom machining all the apply pistons, so the tolerances would be literally perfect in 3D space, which is to say the apply pistons are not perfectly flat and do not apply perfectly straight in stock form, so we resolved that. All credit goes to Adam on this, he was impressive about his attention to detail, which is sorely lacking in the industry today.

You don't need to worry about this as much, but you should be aware of it when measuring everything. If you get varying results on the same stack, that's why.

 

What will you need to replace? That depends what's burned. On yours, almost everything until you get to reverse. The #1 issue with these transmission in stock form is heat. They produce a ton of it, and stock cooling is severely lacking in a hot climate. You 100% should install an air cooler for your transmission fluid.

Anyways, so you'll find a lot of steels will have heat spots, and a lot of frictions will be burned. Replace those. The only reason you would likely keep stock frictions or steels in the main forward gear ratio shift packs is to manipulate your final tolerances, which again, are the key difference between success and having to do it again.

What we each did was shop for frictions and steels irrelevant of a kit. Some Alto (some Red Eagle, some Raybestos, whatever made the most sense on a pack by pack basis. Same for steels (Adam custom cut some, but you shouldn't need to). You will find that there are thickness variations between each friction and steel from each manufacturer, and that makes all the difference. It wasn't just that we wanted a perfect tolerance result, it was that we HAD to use a mix of parts from different manufacturers in order to get a good result, as there was no one good major manufacturer that made everything better than the next guy. Actually, Borg Warner really is better than everyone, but good luck finding their frictions for the 5EAT.

Sorry, you wanted a simple answer, and I'm here telling you that you might find you're trading simple for a quality end result. Don't do that. Start with simple, but immediately change your approach if you find a clutch pack having a crappy tolerance.

About tolerances, there are a bunch of different ones out there. With the 5EAT, your best bet is to go on the tight end of the tighter spec ranges that you find. A bunch of the tolerances are obnoxiously loose.

 

You will almost certainly not need to go any deeper than reverse. Don't touch reverse or beneath it the forward clutch pack, as those do not get worn out (reverse for obvious reasons, forward for the non obvious reason that it's always locked up so it doesn't have any realistic way of wearing out).

 

Lucas transmission fix takes a LONG time to work. Like a month.

It's not going to significantly fix your transmission (most of the time), but it is wonderful for buying some time so you are less likely to get stuck somewhere as the car's condition worsens. Most recently, it made a slip in my girlfriend's 6T45 go away completely, but it took 3 weeks for that to finally happen.

 

I do not or want any compensation unless I'm selling you something (which I did, thank you ). My information is free to you. But I would enjoy seeing pictures of whatever you think is an interesting part of your build, and of course I would love to see pictures of all the worn out parts you find in the clutch packs. Please let me know when you have some good photos!

 

Thank you,

David