5EAT Show-n-Tell

There is plenty of info about the 5/6 MTs here, but I thought It would be great to have a show and tell for all of the 5EATS in one place. Lets try to keep it organized:

Car:

Turbo/Engine/Intercooling:

Intake/Exhaust:

Tuning (What tuner, E-tune, Dyno Tune, OTS?):

Suspension:

Dyno Sheets/Track times (if any):

Pics:

Transmission Upgrades:

Fueling:

Don't forget to share your personal experiences, tips, tricks, and 5EAT wisdom that others (me included) might not know! Tell us Everything!

2005 Legacy 2.5GT Limited

Stock internals 120k

BNR 16G

ELH, with EWG

Fujita CAI

RacersX FMIC

740cc injectors

Infamous oil line

IAG AOS

ClimberD Valve body

Catless DP

Custom single exit 3in turbo back

Tarmac 1 coils

All whiteline bushings

Avo Subframe connectors

Hotchkis bars

DBA rotors

Porterfield pads

stainless lines

Grimmspeed Master Cyl bracket

boost and oil pressure gauge

widebody fenders

265/40/17 on 17x9 +38

COBB Accessport tuned @ EFI Logics by Lance Lucas 300whp 300wtq

Daily driven

Did the MC brace help with pedal feel?

I have Brembos and SS lines but still not happy with firmness...Thinking this would be easier than the STi MC I was thinking of swapping in...

Sorry to thread-jack... Please PM me...

2005 Legacy 2.5GT Limited

Stock internals 120k

 

BNR 16G

ELH, with EWG

Fujita CAI

RacersX FMIC

740cc injectors

Infamous oil line

IAG AOS

ClimberD Valve body

Catless DP

Custom single exit 3in turbo back

 

 

 

Tarmac 1 coils

All whiteline bushings

Avo Subframe connectors

Hotchkis bars

DBA rotors

Porterfield pads

stainless lines

Grimmspeed Master Cyl bracket

 

boost and oil pressure gauge

widebody fenders

265/40/17 on 17x9 +38

 

 

 

COBB Accessport tuned @ EFI Logics by Lance Lucas 300whp 300wtq

 

Daily driven

Nice!! on a 16G no less. That single exit catless Turboback must be LOUD!!

Its probably quieter than you think. A dual 2.5 is much 'larger' than a single 3.

fact, my previous setup of catted CNT DP Perrin mid/ Y with nameless deletes hit 114DB at WBM last yr.

this year with catless DP, 3in all the way single exit was 108DB

A new set-up will be born for next year.

i love my Grimmspeed master brace. fantastic feel difference.

My BNR's seals arent happy anymore a JMP unit is in the works.

Unsure if this is the right thread, but here goes:

2005 legacy gt limited

JDM 2.0 with USDM 2.5 heads.

Vf38 turbo

JDM dual exhaust to the turbo. Cat down pipe

Stock intake.

5EAT

Bought the car in this configuration 1200 miles ago. Approximately 50K on the engine. Unsure on tranny.

Question: I'm thinking it at least needs a drain and fill on the tranny, but thinking of doing the full flush (have seen procedure and can do it).

Next question : do I replace the tranny filter behind the left side headlamp prior or after the flush?

Also, do I need to drop the pan and change the screen at the valve body?

If I'm in the wrong thread, please tell me. All suggestions are welcome....

Thanks!

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

1st part of your post is in the correct place. 2nd part is not but I have no problem answering your ?s. Do a drain and fill a few times before you do a flush because you don't have any previous service records. It is risky and potentially 5EAT threatening to do a flush if there is a possibility that the fluid is old. Here is why: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-5eat-atf-flush-197248.html?t=197248&highlight=5eat+flush

the explaination is at the bottom of the post. You do have to drop the pan to get most of the fluid out. Draining through the plug will only get you about 4 quarts. It takes about 11-12qts to fill the 5EAT from empty.

I don't think 99% of the people here change either of those filters because they don't seem to be a problem.

Get in touch with Dave Hettena his username is ClimberD@HexMods. He knows more about the 5EAT than anyone here and also offers an incredible performance Valve Body upgrade for the the 5EAT that everyone would be crazy not to have!!

Yes the MC brace made all the difference.

I too had brembos and SS lines and yearned for more. The GS MC brace filled that void finally and gave me the feel i was looking for.

Did the MC brace help with pedal feel?

 

I have Brembos and SS lines but still not happy with firmness...Thinking this would be easier than the STi MC I was thinking of swapping in...

 

Sorry to thread-jack... Please PM me...

-Car: 2005 Outback XT

-Turbo/Intercooling: Ceramicoated IHI VF52 Ported and Polished on both the hot and cold, GrimmSpeed TMIC, GrimmSpeed 3 port boost controller.

-Intake/Exhaust: GrimmSpeed Up, Invidida Catted Down, GMS Catback, Grimmspeed Cold Air Intake, Tomioka Racing Inlet

-Tuning: Protuned by Quantum Raceworks in Ravena,NY

-Suspension: OEM Replacement:eek: Enkei RPM2 wheels 18x7.5 +50 ET 225-50-18 (Perfect for stock OBXT fitment and within millimeters of the OEM rolling diameter.)

-Transmission Upgrades: HexMods ValveBody, Hayden TruCool 4454 Transmission Cooler

-Fueling: DeatchsWerks 65 C Fuel Pump and DW 740CC side feed injectors

266AWHP, 295AWTQ

hope you have a derale thermostat in that trans set up! 4454 will overcool you.

-Car: 2005 Outback XT

-Turbo/Intercooling: Ceramicoated IHI VF52 Ported and Polished on both the hot and cold, GrimmSpeed TMIC, GrimmSpeed 3 port boost controller.

-Intake/Exhaust: GrimmSpeed Up, Invidida Catted Down, GMS Catback, Grimmspeed Cold Air Intake, Tomioka Racing Inlet

-Tuning: Protuned by Quantum Raceworks in Ravena,NY

-Suspension: OEM Replacement:eek: Enkei RPM2 wheels 18x7.5 +50 ET 225-50-18 (Perfect for stock OBXT fitment and within millimeters of the OEM rolling diameter.)

-Transmission Upgrades: HexMods ValveBody, Hayden TruCool 4454 Transmission Cooler

-Fueling: DeatchsWerks 65 C Fuel Pump and DW 740CC side feed injectors

 

266AWHP, 295AWTQ

hope you have a derale thermostat in that trans set up! 4454 will overcool you.

This! Mine was over cooled (running at ~110f on the highway) before I added a a termostat. Radiator self destructed soon after that was put in so now I run that stand alone.

Works fine, tranny never gets over 186F or so now.

This! Mine was over cooled (running at ~110f on the highway) before I added a a termostat. Radiator self destructed soon after that was put in so now I run that stand alone.

 

Works fine, tranny never gets over 186F or so now.

My cooler is plumbed in series before the radiator without the t-stat. I have had an oil temp gauge installed for a month and a half before I plumbed in the cooler just so I could see where my temps were. As long as the car stays in motion, my temps never get above 160F, but as soon as I get stuck in traffic, the needle will climb up to and slightly over 180F fairly quickly.

I Plumbed my cooler in series Before the radiator according to climber D's diagram as to bring the temp back up to "normalization" if it requires it.

After 2 weeks of running the cooler, I have noticed absolutely no difference in temperature at all, its as if I completely wasted my time installing the cooler all together. Everyone is always so dramatic about the possible risk of over cooling so I was expecting a very drastic difference after installing the cooler and I got nothing. My temps are right where they should be for now, should I only be worried about maybe adding a t-stat when the winter months come around? What gives?

My cooler is plumbed in series before the radiator without the t-stat. I have had an oil temp gauge installed for a month and a half before I plumbed in the cooler just so I could see where my temps were. As long as the car stays in motion, my temps never get above 160F, but as soon as I get stuck in traffic, the needle will climb up to and slightly over 180F fairly quickly.

 

I Plumbed my cooler in series Before the radiator according to climber D's diagram as to bring the temp back up to "normalization" if it requires it.

After 2 weeks of running the cooler, I have noticed absolutely no difference in temperature at all, its as if I completely wasted my time installing the cooler all together. Everyone is always so dramatic about the possible risk of over cooling so I was expecting a very drastic difference after installing the cooler and I got nothing. My temps are right where they should be for now, should I only be worried about maybe adding a t-stat when the winter months come around? What gives?

Hum... I started playing with FreeSSM then got the t-stat installed during winter so that may expain the numbers I was seeing. 160F to 190F should be right in the sweet spot.

My cooler is plumbed in series before the radiator without the t-stat. I have had an oil temp gauge installed for a month and a half before I plumbed in the cooler just so I could see where my temps were. As long as the car stays in motion, my temps never get above 160F, but as soon as I get stuck in traffic, the needle will climb up to and slightly over 180F fairly quickly.

 

I Plumbed my cooler in series Before the radiator according to climber D's diagram as to bring the temp back up to "normalization" if it requires it.

After 2 weeks of running the cooler, I have noticed absolutely no difference in temperature at all, its as if I completely wasted my time installing the cooler all together. Everyone is always so dramatic about the possible risk of over cooling so I was expecting a very drastic difference after installing the cooler and I got nothing. My temps are right where they should be for now, should I only be worried about maybe adding a t-stat when the winter months come around? What gives?

This is great info. You did it right.

Where in the circuit is your ATF temp sensor?

Some 5EAT's ATF overheats, some don't. When they do overheat, they really overheat. My own experience and everyone I've ever talked to says they've never seen the inside of a 5eat box not show signs of excessive heat. Heat is the issue with the 5EAT. If you have rock solid temperatures, that's excellent.

On the flip side, if your ATF is being cooled in the winter to the extent that the car won't shift into 5th gear, then you'll want a thermostat. If that's not a problem, then you don't have a problem.

The real test is at either end of the spectrum, your hottest days of summer (or highest consistent leverage of the unlocked torque converter), and your coldest days of winter. April/May should be gravy.

This is great info. You did it right.

 

Where in the circuit is your ATF temp sensor?

 

Some 5EAT's ATF overheats, some don't. When they do overheat, they really overheat. My own experience and everyone I've ever talked to says they've never seen the inside of a 5eat box not show signs of excessive heat. Heat is the issue with the 5EAT. If you have rock solid temperatures, that's excellent.

 

On the flip side, if your ATF is being cooled in the winter to the extent that the car won't shift into 5th gear, then you'll want a thermostat. If that's not a problem, then you don't have a problem.

 

The real test is at either end of the spectrum, your hottest days of summer (or highest consistent leverage of the unlocked torque converter), and your coldest days of winter. April/May should be gravy.

Hmm interesting you say that. I had plumbed in a cooler after my radiator before i stumbled upon your thermostat thread . I've been driving this car in -10 to -20 degree weather with the trans giving no problems and yesterday i I beat on it in 90+ degree weather . She currently sits at 237k miles so I guess its the luck of the draw. But then again, those days I let my car sufficiently warm up ( with the bun toaster on burnt)

This is great info. You did it right.

 

Where in the circuit is your ATF temp sensor?

 

Some 5EAT's ATF overheats, some don't. When they do overheat, they really overheat. My own experience and everyone I've ever talked to says they've never seen the inside of a 5eat box not show signs of excessive heat. Heat is the issue with the 5EAT. If you have rock solid temperatures, that's excellent.

 

On the flip side, if your ATF is being cooled in the winter to the extent that the car won't shift into 5th gear, then you'll want a thermostat. If that's not a problem, then you don't have a problem.

 

The real test is at either end of the spectrum, your hottest days of summer (or highest consistent leverage of the unlocked torque converter), and your coldest days of winter. April/May should be gravy.

My sensor is installed in a galley plug in place of the drain plug.