18 A/C Stopped working no cold air

My 18 now has another issue, the A/C has stopped blowing cold air.

So far I have checked fuses, relay and code read the car all clear.

 

Any Ideas?

AC compressor clutch/belt issues?

Just curious does the active grill ambient temperature and or active grille shutter have anything at all in relation to the AC ? Thanks, it's just a mystery that a 18 would be having AC issues, but then again I have had nothing but issues with this lemonish car (Ex: Engine Blew Up, Trans, etc..)

Dang I’m glad I’m not having all those issues on MY17,the only issue I have is steering rack rattle,dealer just replaced the rack assembly back in January but I’m starting to hear the rattle again

Dang I’m glad I’m not having all those issues on MY17,the only issue I have is steering rack rattle,dealer just replaced the rack assembly back in January but I’m starting to hear the rattle again��

 

This is my 3rd Subaru and tbh I lost faith in the build quality it's a hot glued car at least with mine.

AC compressor clutch/belt issues?

There is no A/C clutch, and the serpentine belt is shared with the coolant pump and alternator.

Might not be the fault of subie, a rock could've punctured the condenser or something.

the condenser is in a very vulnerable place. One small puncture and bye bye cold air.

the condenser is in a very vulnerable place. One small puncture and bye bye cold air.

 

are you sure you're not at the dealership representative cuz that's the exact issue that I was just told

Does anyone know the type of refrigerant that goes into this model ? Also the procedure for adding it, once I have the condenser replaced. I am guessing that I will have to purge the system out of any remaining refrigerant before topping it off

Have you located a puncture in the condenser? It may appear wet, if some oil left with the refrigerant. It's unlikely to be dyed green, unless it has been replaced before (the refrigerant).

 

Unfortunately I can't tell what refrigerant or oil to use, since I own a 4th gen, it should tell you under the hood on a sticker, or near the radiator on a sticker.

 

I'm a newbie to AC stuff, but here are my thoughts after replacing my condenser last year.

 

You likely lost all of your refrigerant if the condenser is punctured, so no need to evacuate any of the old refrigerant. After installing the new condenser, adding a couple ounces of oil into the condenser to replace what was lost, ideally replacing the o-rings and lubricating them with the proper compressor oil, you should pull a vaccuum on the system for at least 30 minutes to get any water out of the system that may be in there, and and to also make sure the system doesn't have an obvious leak. To do that, you'll also need an ac manifold gauge set. I got mine at harbor freight for around $60, and I was able to rent a vacuum pump for free at autozone, otherwise they're at least $80 I think.

 

After pulling the vacuum, connect your ac manifold gauge set low pressure line where the vacuum pump was, ideally purge any air out the fill hose until you see a little refrigerant come out the valve near your gauge dials.

 

How do you know when you've added the correct amount of refrigerant? You can try and find a can at the store with the exact amount you need, I think they have 14oz sizes, and I forget what the larger sizes are. I used a postal scale I had to try and measure the weight of the can when full, vs when empty, and I still don't know if I added the right amount of refrigerant. You can also go by the pressures on your gauge set, but the FSM for 4th gens lists the pressures at 86-95F or something like that, and any other charts I found online with a broader temperature range are for different pressures than what subaru specs from 86-95F, so I didn't trust them.

 

Sorry for how long this is, I guess in summary my advice would be to install an aftermarket condenser yourself, and to have a professional shop pull a vacuum and recharge the system. I don't think they would charge too much to do that, and I think it would be money well spent to let them deal with that. I'm also a perfectionist, and couldn't stand the difficulty in not knowing exactly how much refrigerant I added, since I hear AC systems in subies can be very picky about how much is in them. Is the can fully empty? How much refrigerant did I lose when I purged the line at the beginning? How much oil do I add to the condenser?

 

I guess you could also avoid the manifold gauge set by just grabbing one of those recharge cans with the hoses, but that only tells you the low pressure side pressure.

 

Again, I'm a newbie to AC stuff so I welcome any corrections.

 

*Edit, oh going from memory you'll also need some sort of can tap too, if you go with a manifold gauge set and standard ac can.

Edited October 1, 2020 by apexi

2018's are on the new high pressure system. R1234YF refrigerant. Little harder to find and generally much more expensive than 134A. You cannot mix them, and must use separate equipment that has not been in contact with the other type.

 

And the new stuff is flammable, albeit mildly.

 

Are you no longer under warranty?

I believe there still is a federal law saying that a licenced ac tech is the only person that can work on these kind of problems. I ran into this several years ago when a heater core started to leak on a older car. Ended up doubling the repair cost.

2018's are on the new high pressure system. R1234YF refrigerant. Little harder to find and generally much more expensive than 134A. You cannot mix them, and must use separate equipment that has not been in contact with the other type.

 

And the new stuff is flammable, albeit mildly.

 

Are you no longer under warranty?

 

Nope not under warranty car has 63k miles , dealer charged me $240 to find the puncture and they quoted me $1200 and some change for repairs I told them to stop. So I got charged $192 for diagnostic I will replace it with aftermarket one , but wasn't sure about charging purging the system since this is a newer model.

 

Never have done an ac condenser I do have the cars actual service repair guide I found online.

are you sure you're not at the dealership representative cuz that's the exact issue that I was just told

No man, it happened to my 05 legacy wagon, really annoying. I'll say this though, the aftermarket replacement held up much better than the OEM. Or just better luck.

If you get the condenser replaced, you should be able to get it charged by a shop for under $300, they'll want to run a leak test before hand if I remember correctly.

My 18 now has another issue, the A/C has stopped blowing cold air.

 

So far I have checked fuses, relay and code read the car all clear.

 

 

 

Any Ideas?

Actuator motor for hot and cold change

 

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There is no A/C clutch, and the serpentine belt is shared with the coolant pump and alternator.

The pump has a clutch

 

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Possible leakage of coolant? Check with your local AC specialist may helps

 

 

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I have an aftermarket condenser unit arriving Friday, I looked up steps on how to evac and load the system with 1234yf. But I also noticed that there is a metion of an oil that goes with the refrigerant so is there a mixture composition that I am supposed to follow?

I have an aftermarket condenser unit arriving Friday, I looked up steps on how to evac and load the system with 1234yf. But I also noticed that there is a metion of an oil that goes with the refrigerant so is there a mixture composition that I am supposed to follow?

https://www.denso-am.eu/media/corporate-news/2017/august-2017-newsletter-compressor-oil-and-refrigerant-mixing-old-and-new/

https://www.denso-am.eu/media/corporate-news/2017/august-2017-newsletter-compressor-oil-and-refrigerant-mixing-old-and-new/

 

 

Awesome thank you so much

The pump has a clutch

No, it doesn't. Check the FSM.