Exhaust leak after first cat.

2006 Spec B.

 

So the gasket between the downpipe/cat and before the second cat has rusted out and there's a gap leaking exhaust. Where I'm having an issue is separating the two pipes so I can put a new gasket in.

 

Here's the confusing part- I took off the first nut and whats left is the threaded bolt which goes through both flanges but there's no apparent way to screw that threaded section out since there's nothing to latch onto but the threaded section. Does that make any sense?

 

I've searched high and low but most of the results are for replacing the gasket behind the second cat.

 

Edit:

I think I figured it out. You need to pull off the whole midpipe/cat by sliding the piece off the bolts and then replace the gasket. So if I'm pulling that off should I replaced the rear hardware i.e. the spring bolts and the donut gasket or are those fine to reuse? Thanks.

Edited June 18, 2019 by dubtavious

I would replace the spring bolts and donut. Cheap insurance, do it right the first time. Good luck

FWIW, I bolt my exhaust on with standard bolts, washers and nuts. I don't use those springs.

 

Hint, use anti-seize compound on all the nut & bolt threads you put on the car, yes even the lug nuts.

 

You do know that a 3" catted downpipe and a tune will really wake the car up and be better then stock. You can even get better mpg.

FWIW, I bolt my exhaust on with standard bolts, washers and nuts. I don't use those springs.

 

Hint, use anti-seize compound on all the nut & bolt threads you put on the car, yes even the lug nuts.

 

You do know that a 3" catted downpipe and a tune will really wake the car up and be better then stock. You can even get better mpg.

 

Trying to fix this right now and I can't for the life of me get the second cat off. The bolts at the bottom of the first cat are quite rusty. Any tips here?

Map gas or preferably acetylene. A heat induction gun may work but I find they dont heat up bolts/nuts enough.

A right angle cut-off tool from Harbor Fright with a rotary file to grind off the rusty parts.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=rotary+file+set&oq=rotary+file&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j0l5.7791j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Map gas or preferably acetylene. A heat induction gun may work but I find they dont heat up bolts/nuts enough.

 

Thanks for the suggestion. When I was down there I actually noticed a fine crack at the back of the flange so I think I'll probably just take it to a muffler shop and get a new flange welded in.