Penetrating oils and how effective they actually are

This has been a long discussed topic and everyone seems to have a different opinion. I came across this video and found it to be very interesting. For those of you that feel the acetone/ATF is without question the best, listen to the comments very early in the video. This shows me that there are two spray cans of penetrating oil I'll have in my toolbox. One is Seafoam and the other is Liquid Wrench.

 

Enjoy and discuss.

 

Project Farm is one of my favorite YouTube channels. He will test out things and break his engines so we don’t have to.

Interesting video, definitely some food for thought, thanks for sharing. I've always used Liquid Wrench as a matter of course, without knowing whether it actually did anything. Seems like the two important factors here are low enough viscosity to pull into the threads, but more importantly the lubricity and/or rust dissolution capability of the fluid once it's in there. To the second point, I was surprised how much torque the WD-40 took relative to the Seafoam, despite similar penetration.

 

Maybe I missed this, but it would have been useful to know if the test piece sat an hour with the fasteners pointed vertically as shown when the penetrants were being applied or sideways as when they were being loosened. Not sure how many stuck fasteners I've dealt with that were pointed vertically, but I feel like most were not.

Kroil anyone?

 

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

He tested kroil in another video too, love his channel.

 

 

*A guy named AVE has done some tests too

I was watching his channel today and love his stuff, his voice just reminds me of Marvin the Martian!

There is a product called thrust. You spray it and walk away for 15 mins or so. I’d put it up against any other brand penetrating fluid.

Kroil anyone?

 

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

 

I have at least three cans of this around the house and shed.

I’ve always used PB Blaster based on recommendations from other people. Just replaced the rings on my StopTech Trophy kit yesterday (two piece rotors) and had to employ PB, heat from a propane torch and a hand sledge to release the rotor from the hub as it was stubborn to come off. Couple squirts of PB into any spot I could get access to for seeping in between the two surfaces, a bit of heat on the wheels studs and 5 good wacks with the hand sledge on a piece of wood on the inboard side of the rotor and it finally released. Definitely putting anti seize on the hub face for reassembly.

I always put anti seize on the inside of the wheels too, in the bore. If you live in a state where they use road salt, this can save you a lot of grief if you have to change a tire on the road.

I use moovit. Worked at a engine remanufacturing plant for a bit and that's what they used on all the threads during disassembly. It worked well. If something was really stubborn, would spray it then go to lunch. Always came free when I got back to it. And figured if this huge company was using it I'm sure they tried a bunch of different options.

Glad I started this thread. A lot of interesting comments and other types of penetrating oil keep popping up. One way or another, we'll narrow it down to the absolute best because WE ARE LGT!

I can't do PB Blaster.....it smells terrible to me and seems to follow you for days. I have seen it work and have some on hand but it is not my go to. It may be my previous employment that turned me off of it, who knows.

 

Thrust works too....Castle products all tend to work well.

Used PB yesterday doing LCAs on the wagon. Despite liberal application a day in advance, reapplication day of, and about an hour of heat cycling with an acetylene torch, both front knuckle pinch bolts snapped before coming loose and had to be drilled out. Seems there's a limit to its effectiveness.

 

However, the car has been undercoated. Didn't see any on the knuckles themselves except a bit of overspray, but wonder if a bit of the wax getting on the end of the bolt can prevent the penetrating oil getting in. I'd think the torch would have burned it off and let the stuff I applied after heating to get in

Oops double post

PB has been my go to for a while, but still snap a rusty bolt every once in a while.

 

Might be giving Liquid Wrench a go after this can is done. Maybe it smells better too...

PB Blaster definitely reeks. Once in your nose, it stays about 3 days too...GAK

I had to use so much PB Blaster for an engine swap in an old mustang in the dead of winter in WY, that it’s permanently associated with memories of that work. If I smell it, I can vividly recall different parts of the swap. It doesn’t stink to me anymore, just reminds me of my late teens.

I usually use PB Blaster, sort of out of habit. But if I really need some help, I have a jar of acetone/ATF (50:50). I brush it on and let it sit for a little bit, and it usually works. But I rarely use it, usually, it's just PB Blaster.

Thanks for sharing, OP. Quite informative and the tapped plexiglass samples provided a nice visual comparison. I've always relied on PB Blaster for my limited needs, but that may change!

Kroil anyone?

 

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

Yup. It's all we use at the shop. Works every time from brake line flare nuts to rear forester lateral link bolts (the foot long bolt that goes through the hub) to rusted axle nuts. The bad ones always need some help from a torch but it works very well.

 

Subieguys.com

 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Used PB yesterday doing LCAs on the wagon. Despite liberal application a day in advance, reapplication day of, and about an hour of heat cycling with an acetylene torch, both front knuckle pinch bolts snapped before coming loose and had to be drilled out. Seems there's a limit to its effectiveness.

 

 

 

However, the car has been undercoated. Didn't see any on the knuckles themselves except a bit of overspray, but wonder if a bit of the wax getting on the end of the bolt can prevent the penetrating oil getting in. I'd think the torch would have burned it off and let the stuff I applied after heating to get in

You gotta get both sides of the bolt hole cherry red or it will snap everytime. Usually it's the rust that builds up on the non threaded part that won't let it move.

 

Subieguys.com

 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

^ truth right there. I got mine out without snapping but cherry hot indeed. Definitely will have destroyed the ball joint but really should only be taking that bolt out if you are changing the ball joint anyway. If you want to take the LCA off just take it off the taper.

 

I wanted to replace that bolt with a stainless but had a hard time finding one unfortunately.