Koni Shock/Strut & Epic Engineering Spring Install

He's releasing the oil because he's using the brand new KYB as a donor for the Koni insert. Yeah, you can drill a hole in the bottom first on a brand new one. I usually cut mine first, but drilling won't make it grenade.

 

you cut right through the shock shaft or work around it to cut the body and then remove the shaft? This way seems quicker, maybe a bit messier(?) with the oil? No grenading your way?

you cut right through the shock shaft or work around it to cut the body and then remove the shaft? This way seems quicker, maybe a bit messier(?) with the oil? No grenading your way?

 

Now that's an idea. We have a big HEM Sidewinder Auto horizontal bandsaw at work that would slice right through the entire strut. Might tear up the strut body when cutting through the rod though.

You wont be able to cut the shock shaft unless you have serious industrial tools. You drill a hole in the bottom to drain the fluid (you will need a bigger hole for the retaining bolt so its just a pilot hole anyway). Drain the fluid by pumping the shaft. Then use a pipe cutter to cut the body (below the shaft).

http://www.hemsaw.com/hemmedia/Sidewinder%20M/photo/SidewinderM_2016_02.png

 

It would do it, but I don't think it would do well with the piston not being held down and possibly bouncing around. I'll either go hacksaw or pipe cutter. I thought people had issues using a pipe cutter though. Something about rolling the edge over causing issues with getting the inset slid in.

a little overkill. I think ill just poke a hole in the back like the tutorial shows and what koni

says haha.

and on a separate note, if people are still reading this thread who are still running konis and all, what wheels, offset and tires are you running and especially for the fronts, what kind of gaps are you seeing from the spring perch?

 

Seems like with outbacks at least, our stock 225/55/17 et48 tires/wheels give only 1mm clearance. Once i get these on my car i may have to buy 3mm spacers in the front just so i can get out of the shop on stock wheels and get home...

http://www.hemsaw.com/hemmedia/Sidewinder%20M/photo/SidewinderM_2016_02.png

 

It would do it, but I don't think it would do well with the piston not being held down and possibly bouncing around. I'll either go hacksaw or pipe cutter. I thought people had issues using a pipe cutter though. Something about rolling the edge over causing issues with getting the inset slid in.

 

 

 

 

Number 1, you are confusing the shaft with the body. That saw would NOT cut through the shaft. It would however destroy the body. A pipe cutter is the tool to use. I have installed hundreds of sets of Konis with the same pipe cutter. Know how to use the tools, all complaints are user error.

Number 1, you are confusing the shaft with the body. That saw would NOT cut through the shaft. It would however destroy the body. A pipe cutter is the tool to use. I have installed hundreds of sets of Konis with the same pipe cutter. Know how to use the tools, all complaints are user error.

 

I was actually joking about the HEM saw. I think the pipe cutter is a better way. With the pipe cutter, do you think a HF one will work? Don't want to spend a lot on a tool I will only use one time.

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/no-2-pipe-cutter-62243.html

you cut right through the shock shaft or work around it to cut the body and then remove the shaft? This way seems quicker, maybe a bit messier(?) with the oil? No grenading your way?

Pipe cutter. I've never used a hacksaw to do a donor. But with a pipe cutter you need to grind off the "mushroomed" edge it leaves. Edited April 4, 2020 by GTEASER

Pipe cutter. I've never used a hacksaw to do a donor. But with a pipe cutter you need to bring off the "mushroomed" edge it leaves.

 

"bring" off the edge?

I used a hacksaw with fresh blades when I did mine - I actually cut each one twice - once up near the top of the strut to remove the cartridge/shaft, then the second to bring it to length. You want the cut to be uniform all around - I marked with masking tape and used that as a guide. I took my time with the second cut and it ended up great.

 

 

I believe gteaser uses a belt sander to clean up the edge once he's done (cut close, then grind it perfect) - great option if you happen to have a sander! (I am pretty sure he either posted that here somewhere, or told me when I peppered him with questions when I was doing mine)

 

 

I drilled the hole in the bottom of the strut, then pumped the fluid out before cutting the body. I don't recall much drama when the drill punched through - just make sure the hole is centered (it will be a pilot hole you have to open up for the bottom bolt to hold the insert in place)

"bring" off the edge?

Grind...sorry. Edited the post.

I used a hacksaw with fresh blades when I did mine - I actually cut each one twice - once up near the top of the strut to remove the cartridge/shaft, then the second to bring it to length. You want the cut to be uniform all around - I marked with masking tape and used that as a guide. I took my time with the second cut and it ended up great.

 

 

I believe gteaser uses a belt sander to clean up the edge once he's done (cut close, then grind it perfect) - great option if you happen to have a sander! (I am pretty sure he either posted that here somewhere, or told me when I peppered him with questions when I was doing mine)

 

 

I drilled the hole in the bottom of the strut, then pumped the fluid out before cutting the body. I don't recall much drama when the drill punched through - just make sure the hole is centered (it will be a pilot hole you have to open up for the bottom bolt to hold the insert in place)

You recall correctly. I cut the strut with the pipe cutter about 1.25" below the silver cap (5th Gen strut), then get a measurement on the inside and grind off the last 1/8" or so and the mushroomed material to zero in on my exact measurement. Use a bench mounted belt sander. The pipe cutter goes quickly, maybe 5 minutes, and the grinding take about 20 for each donor strut. I've done about 2 dozen of these personally.

Now the pipe cutter and sander I can do. We have a big floor mounted belt sander with a 8” wide metal sanding belt at work.

 

I’ll have to read through the process again so I get the measurements right.

I just cut the bottom hole a minute ago and like people said and like Lee from Koni said, No drama at all Just a tiny tiny little hiss (almost didn't notice it) when the drill poked through. Nothing dangerous. Just for future reference for other people doing it.

 

This is on a brand new KYB strut.

 

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Edited April 5, 2020 by kaitanium

I just cut the bottom hole a minute ago and like people said and like Lee from Koni said, No drama at all Just a tiny tiny little hiss (almost didn't notice it) when the drill poked through. Nothing dangerous. Just for future reference for other people doing it.

 

This is on a brand new KYB strut.

 

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KYB aren't high pressure gas like Bilstein shocks. It was never going to be dangerous. They have something like maybe 10psi in them, not 200.

If you take your time with a pipe cutter and make several passes, lightly increasing pressure with each pass you wont "mushroom" the end. All cuts with a pipe cutter should be de-burred. Most pipe cutters have a de-burr tool on the side of them. If not a decent one is only a few dollars.

 

 

 

I have never had to grind a "mushroom" of a donor. Like I said, its all about how you use the tools. Even a low quality pipe cutter will work just fine if the blade is sharp.

 

 

Measure twice and cut once.

If you take your time with a pipe cutter and make several passes, lightly increasing pressure with each pass you wont "mushroom" the end. All cuts with a pipe cutter should be de-burred. Most pipe cutters have a de-burr tool on the side of them. If not a decent one is only a few dollars.

 

 

 

I have never had to grind a "mushroom" of a donor. Like I said, its all about how you use the tools. Even a low quality pipe cutter will work just fine if the blade is sharp.

 

 

Measure twice and cut once.

 

 

Good to know. We have burr wips at work that make short work of sharp edges.

cleaning up the edges is a good idea even when you use a saw to cut them. After I cut mine, I rattle canned them to cover the cut edge and around the hole on the bottom. I just did gloss black, but others have painted them to match the rears which looks nice.

I cut the strut with the pipe cutter about 1.25" below the silver cap (5th Gen strut)

 

 

This is the important part. You cut 1.25” BELOW the cap, not from the top. I think gteaser needs to write the instructions for Koni’s 5th gen application. [emoji6]

 

 

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I installed one of the 1st sets of Konis in a 5th gen at my shop (and sold preinstalled sets for a long time before all the "core" bodies were never returned). Unfortunately, the mod never became popular in my area. We saw very few 5th gens at all during almost 10 years of business.

I installed one of the 1st sets of Konis in a 5th gen at my shop (and sold preinstalled sets for a long time before all the "core" bodies were never returned). Unfortunately, the mod never became popular in my area. We saw very few 5th gens at all during almost 10 years of business.

 

 

Just shows the lack of love in general given to the NA 5th gen. It really is a hidden gem.

 

 

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Lack of support for the 5th gen in general. Very little support for the GT either. 5th gen was a move away from performance and a move towards Toyota. To each his own. Cant say I would ever refer to it as a "gem". 4th gen Legacy was by far the best in my opinion.

Lack of support for the 5th gen in general. Very little support for the GT either. 5th gen was a move away from performance and a move towards Toyota. To each his own. Cant say I would ever refer to it as a "gem". 4th gen Legacy was by far the best in my opinion.

 

Totally agree! Looking back over the generations, The gen 4 Legacy/gen 3 Outback were the best looking plus turbo! I’m also partial to the gen 2 Legacy/gen 1 Outback (had a five speed ‘97) but no turbos so far fewer performance options…

I installed one of the 1st sets of Konis in a 5th gen at my shop (and sold preinstalled sets for a long time before all the "core" bodies were never returned). Unfortunately, the mod never became popular in my area. We saw very few 5th gens at all during almost 10 years of business.

What year was this? Because I'm pretty sure that Frederick was the 1st to put Konis on a 5th Gen and I was the 2nd. And I never heard a word of anyone buying pre-built Koni setups for the 5th Gen from Infamous. I was the only one that offered Koni building and donor exchange to the 5th Gen owners here. And I only built less than 15 sets, most of them with brand new donor KYB struts because I couldn't keep enough used donors around.