Throwout Bearing Failure?

My throwout bearing is failing or something. Can barely operate the clutch. Pedal grinds to floor and the clutch isn’t disengaging fully. I can smell it and hear it and I can feel it through the pedal.

 

The throwout bearing has been mildly noisy for a while but the clutch was fine so I just ignored it. It’s been extra cold here the last few days.

 

I didn’t realize the TOB played such an integral role in the functioning of the clutch. Thoughts? Correct me?

Yes the TOB plays a vital role in the clutch system, it will give you plenty of warning before it grenades inside the bell housing. Mine actually went out over a week ago as the bearings were screaming when stepping on the clutch, it's going to be my 4th TOB. The clutch is still good with 35k miles, so I won't be replacing it, just the TOB this time.

 

Is your TOB a TSK3 bearing or OEM?

Some early years, the TOB fork has been known to break or wear out at the pivot ball.

it's going to be my 4th TOB.

Four throwout bearings in the life of one vehicle?? I mean, that's a lot, right? Am I missing something?

EDIT: Do you keep replacing the TOB with OEM? Do you recommend the TSK3? It seems like the consensus is that it's at least potentially beneficialy lol.

 

Is your TOB a TSK3 bearing or OEM?

OEM as far as I know. I'm the third owner and I've put about 20,000 miles on it.

 

Since it's Friday and no one can start working on it anyway, I ditched it at my parents' house and took Mom's 2005 Outback.

 

Before I owned this car I never understood the idea of owning a Subaru and a daily driver. I always thought Subaru epitomized the "daily driver."

My OEM clutch and TOB lasted about 75k miles, the TOB chewed up part of the snot. Replaced with the TSK3 kit with the sleeve to repair the snot.

 

The TSK3 bearing was then replaced at 125k miles when I rebuilt the motor.

 

That TSK3 bearing was replaced again at 150k miles when the clutch went out.

 

And now at 185k miles the TSK3 bearing is toast, but the clutch is still good.

 

The TSK3 bearings are known not to last as long as the OEM bearings. If your snot on the trans is still good, just replace with OEM. Some will say it's good insurance to replace with the TSK3 kit to protect the snot incase the bearing goes out and starts chewing away at the snot.

Yer killin me.

Yer killin me.

 

lol wut

Replaced my clutch, throw out bearing and shift fork about 40k miles ago. I used a Sachs kit, so far no issues.

 

The clutch fork is so cheap, I’m not sure why someone wouldn’t pay the extra to replace it as well.

 

 

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Yes the TOB plays a vital role in the clutch system, it will give you plenty of warning before it grenades inside the bell housing. Mine actually went out over a week ago as the bearings were screaming when stepping on the clutch, it's going to be my 4th TOB. The clutch is still good with 35k miles, so I won't be replacing it, just the TOB this time.

 

Is your TOB a TSK3 bearing or OEM?

 

You need new grounds between engine -> Body and Transmission -> Body. It's the same reason our rear wheel bearings don't last, Subaru skimped on good grounds.

You need new grounds between engine -> Body and Transmission -> Body. It's the same reason our rear wheel bearings don't last, Subaru skimped on good grounds.

 

Are you saying electrolysis destroys the bearing grease?

You need new grounds between engine -> Body and Transmission -> Body. It's the same reason our rear wheel bearings don't last, Subaru skimped on good grounds.

 

Are you saying electrolysis destroys the bearing grease?

 

Now that you mention it, I seem to recall some 1990-2000's Chrysler products had a issue to wheel bearings and the fix was better grounds.

Are you saying electrolysis destroys the bearing grease?

 

Pretty much. Since the ground is bad, current is sent from engine to throw out bearing, where everytime it spins it arcs, and melts the grease. Which overtime leads to all of it leaking out, which leads to the bearing getting locked up and infamous snout destruction.

 

2005's had premature rear wheel bearing failure, so they extended the warranty on them, but they didn't extend it for any other years. Well my 2012 Outback at 105k needed a new bearing too (so issue wasn't fixed). Here is what mine looked like...

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256524&stc=1&d=1507600302

 

 

This thread has more details

 

Now that you mention it, I seem to recall some 1990-2000's Chrysler products had a issue to wheel bearings and the fix was better grounds.

 

Ford used to have similar issues too from what I remember reading.

So I did my TOB this weekend. Caught it just in time before it blew up. Pull the trans back and the cap of the TOB fell off exposing the bearings, they were completely dry. Other pic with the new TSK3 bearing installed.

Good job man, that was close from going form a $50 fix to a $1k fix!

So I did my TOB this weekend. Caught it just in time before it blew up. Pull the trans back and the cap of the TOB fell off exposing the bearings, they were completely dry. Other pic with the new TSK3 bearing installed.

 

What symptoms prompted you to replace it?

 

When my car had around 99k, I heard what sounded like bad belt squeal that would change when I pushed the clutch in and out.

 

At around 155k, I started hearing another very faint noise that sounded like the TOB when I had the clutch pedal in or out. I forget exactly what it sounded like, so I had the clutch replaced again then just to be safe. I know the sound changed when the clutch was pushed in/out though, and it wasn't the "chirping" which I think can be normal, and some people experience after replacing the clutch.

 

Now at around 222k, I'm starting to hear noises that are definitely from the TOB again. I'm not sure if it's just the super cold weather we've been having or what. It's like a faint metallic spinning sound. I figured the grease on the shaft is thicker than usual from the cold weather, and maybe not lubricating as well.

 

Long story short, I don't know when to replace the TOB. Do I wait until it sounds like accessory belt squeal again? Or is there some other sound it makes when it's about to fail.

About 3 - 4 weeks ago I started hearing the bearings when pressing the clutch pedal in. This time it sounded like marbles being rolled around in a bowl. Each week it started getting louder, then finally it started to squeel pretty good. That's when I knew to park it and start ordering parts. I've learned from the prevuous ones that when it gets to the loud squeeling sound it's getting ready to blow up.

I've started to notice a little mechanical chatter coming from my transmission. My OEM clutch has 96000 miles on it, 50,000 of which were at stage 2 levels. I'm thinking it's on the way out.

I'm thinking of going with stock replacement with a WRX SMFW since I got such good life out of the stock clutch. Any better options for a light upgrade?

 

Sorry for the hijack.

If you are getting noise from the throwout bearing, do not delay. Get everything replaced asap. Mine blew up a year ago and it was a very expensive repair.

I've started to notice a little mechanical chatter coming from my transmission. My OEM clutch has 96000 miles on it, 50,000 of which were at stage 2 levels. I'm thinking it's on the way out.

I'm thinking of going with stock replacement with a WRX SMFW since I got such good life out of the stock clutch. Any better options for a light upgrade?

 

Sorry for the hijack.

 

I've replaced mine with a WRX clutch kit several years ago, it's a lot better than the DMFW.

I've replaced mine with a WRX clutch kit several years ago, it's a lot better than the DMFW.

 

Better how? Longevity? Pedal feel? Lighter to press in pedal?

 

What happens if it totally fails? I’m having this TOB work done and it’s espensive as it is. They tried to sell me clutch too which I don’t need. Ugh. It’s looking like $1300+ for TOB, fork, repair sleeve, I think that’s all they said. $110 an hour they say.

Better how? Longevity? Pedal feel? Lighter to press in pedal?

 

What happens if it totally fails? I’m having this TOB work done and it’s espensive as it is. They tried to sell me clutch too which I don’t need. Ugh. It’s looking like $1300+ for TOB, fork, repair sleeve, I think that’s all they said. $110 an hour they say.

 

Stealership?

Stealership alternative, actually like half their jobs are Subaus. They do good work but you won’t catch a break on the price. The root problem really is that I live beyond my means but it would still be nice to get better rates on these things.

With the SMFW you'll mostly feel better clutch engagement, it's more solid.

With the SMFW you'll mostly feel better clutch engagement, it's more solid.

 

Interesting. I actually love the way my clutch feels. I don't know if it's OEM or not but it's pretty heavy to push down. It took a while to get used to but I like the way it engages now.

Wetmyson,

 

if you were closer to me, I'd do that job for you at 20% of that cost. damn stealerships are crazy!