Jackal's 20g to 18g e85 Soap Opera

This is good to know! Does anyone know what it would be from? I don't have the car here to b able to measure anything.

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So it seems like things are back in order now, but I'd like to get some further input. We replaced the O-ring and did another leak test. Previously the car was exhibiting definite leakage at less than 10 PSI from the compressor housing. Now we went up to 25 PSI and it held for about 30 seconds, then a very small hiss started. I wasn't personally there to witness this so I'm just wondering if that is to be expected? I know my builder said he had a tough time plugging up all possible leak points and felt good about the test. He said the hiss wasn't at the turbo but he couldn't tell exactly where it was coming from.

Thoughts?

I agree. Without knowing where it was leaking from, its hard to really make an assessment. I do not want to use the phrase 'boost leak' again for a long, long time in conjunction with my own vehicle so I'm hoping that maybe a clamp or line he was trying to block just slowly started to open.

Will this small leak turn out to be a harbinger of worse things to come or is it nothing and has the Panda finally restored to it's former Angry state? All this and more on 'The Boosted and the Beautiful'

Stay tuned!

I agree. Without knowing where it was leaking from, its hard to really make an assessment. I do not want to use the phrase 'boost leak' again for a long, long time in conjunction with my own vehicle so I'm hoping that maybe a clamp or line he was trying to block just slowly started to open.

 

Will this small leak turn out to be a harbinger of worse things to come or is it nothing and has the Panda finally restored to it's former Angry state? All this and more on 'The Boosted and the Beautiful'

 

Stay tuned!

Still a fan!

Well, I'm seriously beside myself at this point. Boost leak is fixed completely (I had him redo everything so absolutely no leaks were present because I got worried about that one that popped up at 25 PSI after 30 seconds). Car is still not right. At this point, I don't have any fresh datalogs from it to provide further insight but it does not feel like it did when I finally got it back a couple weeks ago. It's better than it was when this whole fiasco began but something is still off. Going to have my tuner drive it tonight to see if he can find anything. Needless to say, I'm majorly frustrated and bewildered by this whole situation. :spin:

#sagacontinues

I agree. Without knowing where it was leaking from, its hard to really make an assessment. I do not want to use the phrase 'boost leak' again for a long, long time in conjunction with my own vehicle so I'm hoping that maybe a clamp or line he was trying to block just slowly started to open.

 

Will this small leak turn out to be a harbinger of worse things to come or is it nothing and has the Panda finally restored to it's former Angry state? All this and more on 'The Boosted and the Beautiful'

 

Stay tuned!

Still a fan!

The show must have been so popular that the producers decided to bring it back for a second season

They must be more hopeful about the budget than I am [emoji6]

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In hopes of generating more ideas, I should point out that one of the distinct issues is almost no power on takeoff. There is a small hill as I exit our neighboorhood and when I had the initial power problems, I would usually drive this hill in second gear at around 25 MPH. I could drastically change the accelerator position and would get virtually no response from the car. Boost remained right around 0 PSI and it stayed at the same speed or accelerated in a minimal fashion until cresting the hill.

After the previous boost leak was discovered and fixed, the car responded like a champ on the hill and would willingly accelerate in direct relation to the pedal position.

Now even with this latest boost leak fixed, it is somewhere in between. It doesn't have much desire at all to respond to changes in the accelerator position. When it does respond, changes are laggy and sometimes a little hitchy/jerky.

Thoughts??

Have you tried your stock charge pipe since the issue arised?

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Did you reset your ecu or reflash your map after you got the boost leak fixed?

I did. Unfortunately, no dice.

Have you tried your stock charge pipe since the issue arised?

 

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I actually don't have my stock charge pipe anymore. I had it listed for sale and I don't remember if I sold it or just got sick of looking at it but in any case, it is gone.

My tuner drove the car again last night and he is of the opinion that due to the last boost leak, the turbo (specifically the compressor wheel) may be suspect. There is no axial or lateral play in the shaft and the wheels both spin freely but he is wondering if the wheel has possibly become a little deformed. He has suggested sending the turbo back to BNR for their evaluation and maybe a new compressor wheel.

Of course, I don't have my old VF54 laying around such that we could just toss it on and see if the issues went away. My desire to resolve this has led me to formulate a proposal for the forum that will essentially revert me back to stage 2 (whether permanent or transient remains TBD) and give a member a 20G turbo for quite a bit less than they would normally pay.

I will pose it as gauging interest and go from there.

This one has IIRC only 36k miles on it coming from a totalled 2011 GT at a wrecking yard close to me.

http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=131599794968&alt=web

Dumb question time

What is a 20 G vs ours (18G right)?

What is a G exactly

How much can be gained by going to a 20G? Can Stock intake and exhaust still be used?

TIA

I personally don't know what the 'G' denotes but 16G, 18G, 20G, etc. are all compressor wheels with larger numbers indicating a larger-capacity wheel. I believe our stock VF54 compressor wheel is similar to a 16G.

Stock intake can be used (ask me how I know) though you might be limited just slightly by the intake (or at least the MAF housing) if you are running e85. I don't think you'd have any issues on pump gas.

For exhaust, you would certainly benefit from a downpipe but could leave the existing catback as stock. That's what I had for quite awhile and with that setup, I avoided boost creep issues due to the restriction of the factory CBE. It was only when I went with Borla CBE that I started to have boost creep problems.

'G' is just an aero design generation from Mitsubishi, and an old one at that. These profiles as far as I know we're developed for diesel applications. The 16G~20G all have the same exducer diameter (68mm) and are usually machined from the same castings. The numbers refer to the ever larger inducers from 16G to 20G.

The VF-54 compressor is closer to a Mitsubishi 13T in size and design, the 13T being very common in TD04L-13T turbos fitted as standard to the WRX for many years. A 16G wheel is much closer to a VF-34, 43 and 48 in size and flow capacity, which were fitted to STi models. The VF-52 fitted to the 3rd gen WRX models has the same wheels in different housings.

I was able to pick up a used VF54 today courtesy of GTEASER's tip - I thank you sir. Also want to thank fahr_side for his offers of various turbos.

At this point, my plan is to swap the '54 back in and see how the car responds. If the issue is fixed, I may get it tuned and just run that way for awhile. After all, it's been so long since I've had any real power that this may be enough. Well, for awhile anyway... I will also be sending the 20G back to Brian to get it re-worked and then either re-install it or put it up for sale on here and start scheming about what might come next.