Rangerarnold Posted September 16, 2020 Share Posted September 16, 2020 Recently bought this awesome car, single owner, 150k miles. Really love this car. So my car as of yesterday lost power at a stop sign. Did not cut out or anything, noticed CEL popped on so I pulled into a parking lot. The car was “pulsing” at idle. Basically up and down on the RPM, around the 1k mark. Made it home and spent the day testing things out. When I start the car there is no CEL, but driving it up the road it pops on and the symptoms start, bogging at acceleration, stalling and also surging. When it stalls and I start it back up, CEL is off, then rinse and repeat. I was looking on the forums here and tried the three easiest things I could find to do. Replaced fuel filter Replaced air filter Cleaned MAF sensor. No chance after that. Was looking for some guidance because this car is great and don’t want to see a bigger issue take it out. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted September 16, 2020 Share Posted September 16, 2020 So this started suddenly rather than fading in over some time? Manual or auto? What codes are you getting? When was the timing belt last done both in time and miles? You should be able to pull the outer timing covers and inspect visually. Be gentle putting them back, they are plastic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangerarnold Posted September 16, 2020 Author Share Posted September 16, 2020 This just happened completely out of nowhere yesterday. This is an automatic. I do not own a code reader unfortunately and am not a super genius when it comes to engine stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted September 17, 2020 Share Posted September 17, 2020 Some auto parts stores will read the code for you for free. Then we can use the internet to look up whatever codes they find and try to figure out what could cause that list of codes. That is, if it runs good enough to go to a parts store... If you are thinking of lightly getting into cars you can pick up the elm327 bluetooth thing to put in the code reader port and then get the torque android app to read and clear codes. The elm327 is under $10 on amazon so you would save that money back buying correct parts for your troubles instead of fishing blindly. That elm/torque setup can also read live engine data which would help us even more than codes. But if you aren't planning to do your own work going forward, maybe it doesn't make sense for you to buy some tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangerarnold Posted September 17, 2020 Author Share Posted September 17, 2020 Okay so little update here. Apparently from what I read on the forums I needed to read the flashing of the CEL in a diagnostic mode. I am getting 23, which would be the MAF. As I have already cleaned it, am I to assume it is bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted September 17, 2020 Share Posted September 17, 2020 Could be. Can you get a cheap one at a local junkyard? If they want reasonable money for one there you could maybe parts swap for cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangerarnold Posted September 18, 2020 Author Share Posted September 18, 2020 Another update, now throwing a code 22, knock sensor. I am ordering one now, trying the cheaper option first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 (edited) These codes indicate OBD I rather than OBD II. That is relevant in that the 2nd gen started in 94 for Japan and maybe EU, but it didn't reach the US market until 95. Hence the confusing labeling of this sub forum. I'm happy to keep talking about it here, but it might help if you post in the 1st gen section as well. With it giving multiple and different codes my first step would be to check and clean the connections at the battery, from the battery negative to body/frame, and the other grounds from engine and trans to chassis/frame. There will be a bunch of them and they should all get removed, cleaned with a wire brush, and put back. If they are corroded/loose they can cause all kinds of confusion for the computer. I have a 2nd gen, so I'm afraid I can't be more specific about where they are located. If I remember right, mine has one from trans to firewall, from block to firewall, from intake manifold to strut tower. I've added several additional trans block and intake to strut tower. Take the battery negative apart and leave it apart while you do the others and then put it back last. That way no weird ground loops or other strangeness should happen. Edited September 18, 2020 by doublechaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangerarnold Posted September 19, 2020 Author Share Posted September 19, 2020 New knock sensor did the trick! Thank you for the advice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 Great news! Congrats on solving it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangerarnold Posted September 20, 2020 Author Share Posted September 20, 2020 Might have spoke too soon. After driving about 50 miles I stalled out, checked code and once again threw a MAF code. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 How far did you make it checking for clean electrical connections? Comes and goes like this really sounds like wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangerarnold Posted September 21, 2020 Author Share Posted September 21, 2020 That is my plan for today. I was also lucky to find a MAF for 20 bucks on flea bay so that’s coming soon too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 Keep the old MAF if you can. I now keep all my old parts for a while unless they are broken or definitely sending bad data. The questionable ones seem to be better than the new (China) parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangerarnold Posted September 22, 2020 Author Share Posted September 22, 2020 Luckily I’m pretty sure this is an authentic original part, same exact labeling and everything so fingers crossed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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