What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Yes i swapped the entire front half of the body wiring harness from the LGT into the car and Ive swapped the fuel pump controller as well. Ill definitely look into Iwire. Thank you for bringing them up Im pretty clueless on the support for subaru swaps out there since Im new to this. Ill contact them and see if they have any answers then post the results. Thank you.

What about the harness for the FPCM and fuel pump?

There are mods for the FPCM. Im not suggesting you mod yours, but these threads may shed some light on the current path from the ECU (or battery) to the fuel pump:

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fpcm-wiring-upgrade-relay-staying-switched-w-key-off-242295.html

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fuel-pump-control-module-143860.html

odd this came up about the fpcm as I have a customer that we just did the other day that is seeing pressure drop off with a brand new adjustable fpr, fuel pump, seals etc so this is the next mod is to hardwire the pump as I bet its dropping voltage. Thankfully the COBB Fuel pressure compensation is adding about 10% now and was at about 15% at a little over 20psi on E so our AFRS still tracked as if nothing was wrong....till we looked at comp.

What about the harness for the FPCM and fuel pump?

 

That's where I think that the problem might be I didn't grab the rear chord of the harness. But I did Wire in the FPCM using wiring diagrams I found and I beleive it is wired correctly but I may be wrong but the FPCM is wired in. I have contacted IWire I don't know how long it will take for them to get back to me due to Covid 19. But I am patient, with all this time off of school for the next month its really not an immediate problem. But when everything opens up again it needs an emission check (Because of living in an EPA enforced county which sucks) so I can renew the plates. So I'm not in a tough spot due to time, and I have another swap I'm going to start working on and rebuilding a Detroit 6.5 for a dump truck. So as long as it doesn't hurt itself I think just driving a little around town for a little while is OK.

Last night I swapped out my rear wheel bearings and put the summers back on. These made it through a few years and 3 track events but have admittedly been loud for probably 10k miles. I can hear my thoughts again in the cabin! Rear left one was very bad and grinding when spun by hand while rear right was only marginally better and notchy. I can drive around roundabouts now without hearing a terrible "whop-whop-whop".

Last night I swapped out my rear wheel bearings and put the summers back on. These made it through a few years and 3 track events but have admittedly been loud for probably 10k miles. I can hear my thoughts again in the cabin! Rear left one was very bad and grinding when spun by hand while rear right was only marginally better and notchy. I can drive around roundabouts now without hearing a terrible "whop-whop-whop".

 

How long did it take? Any tips? I have two new bearings on my shelf right now.

i have been "meaning to order" 2 rear timkens from RA for a month. hoping mine just fall off, but i already know my caliper bracket bolts need some not-so tender loving care...

How long did it take? Any tips? I have two new bearings on my shelf right now.

The first time you do it will take a few hours. All of these tips assume you can loosen nuts and free parts "easily". If you've never removed anything in the rear of the car, expect to have to use extreme methods like heat or an air chisel.

Tips:

-If you've never loosened the hub bolts, you should start spraying back there liberally with a penetrating oil for several days, especially if you have any rust.

-Don't forget to remove the abs sensors first in your disassembly

-Free axle from the hub before loosening hub bolts but keep axle nut loose on axle to keep hub from falling off later

-Once you loosen the hub bolts, don't remove them all the way. Use a hammer on your socket/extension and give some good taps to free the hub from the trailing arm (again, this assumes no rust and frees easily)

-Clean/remove rust on the mating surfaces

-Use antiseize on bolts, axle and hub mating surfaces (not a lot on hub/axle though due to abs sensor)

-Once you set the new bearing in, put the axle nut back on and snug a little to hold the hub in place while you line up the bolts and start them.

-Start all hub bolts before tightening all of them

-Be sure to have your "massager", as we call it, at the ready (big freaking mallet) for when things are stuck

Edited April 2, 2020 by rhino6303

i have been "meaning to order" 2 rear timkens from RA for a month. hoping mine just fall off, but i already know my caliper bracket bolts need some not-so tender loving care...

I wasn't a fan of the timken hubs that I just removed. When I changed my front wheel bearings a couple of years ago I used BCA hubs and the quality is far superior. BCA is essentially oem (they are the oem for the rear bearings). This time for the rear I bought a BCA and an NTN/oem bearing as they are identical. If you held them side by side you can really see the difference in machining and the hub itself is different. I should have taken comparison pictures but just wanted to get it done so I didn't take my time.

So uh....turns out that when you start hearing a clunk in the rear and ignore it for a couple of weeks until you have time to dig in, this sometimes happens. Nuts on both side weren't tight enough and backed off, and absolutely destroyed the top hats. Thankfully I managed to salvage enough threads on the Konis to get them to bolt back up and replaced the hats, but holy crap.

 

 

That's scary, you were few mms of metal to ride shock absorption free. Kinda the 93 Camry I had before the LGT. Bought it with shock dead (no, DEAD) and it rode like it had straight pipes welded in place of shocks.

 

 

That was a good car, wish I didn't sell it, was a perfect beach /daily beater.

The first time you do it will take a few hours. All of these tips assume you can loosen nuts and free parts "easily". If you've never removed anything in the rear of the car, expect to have to use extreme methods like heat or an air chisel.

Tips:

-If you've never loosened the hub bolts, you should start spraying back there liberally with a penetrating oil for several days, especially if you have any rust.

-Don't forget to remove the abs sensors first in your disassembly

-Free axle from the hub before loosening hub bolts but keep axle nut loose on axle to keep hub from falling off later

-Once you loosen the hub bolts, don't remove them all the way. Use a hammer on your socket/extension and give some good taps to free the hub from the trailing arm (again, this assumes no rust and frees easily)

-Clean/remove rust on the mating surfaces

-Use antiseize on bolts, axle and hub mating surfaces (not a lot on hub/axle though due to abs sensor)

-Once you set the new bearing in, put the axle nut back on and snug a little to hold the hub in place while you line up the bolts and start them.

-Start all hub bolts before tightening all of them

-Be sure to have your "massager", as we call it, at the ready (big freaking mallet) for when things are stuck

 

 

That's it. Between two steps in bold I also put a round metal brush from HF in my drill and run it on inside of trailing arms to get rid of as much rust as I can.

 

 

 

I only ever used OEM hubs. Another thing, with the average age of our cars at this point, when prepping for the hub job, order dust shield as well. Chances are current one is all rusted through. It's about $40-50 from the dealer. I replaced rear left one last year when I changed one of rear hubs, and have the right one ready to be installed as well. Additional bonus is that rear parking brake shoe pins stay in the dust shield, so when it rusts parking brakes don't work right.

 

 

That's a sucky design and I believe they changed it 2010 and newer.

Well Brian from Iwire got back to me and gave me the answer I didnt want but was about 90% sure that it was the issue. The only thing he could tell me because they didn't build it is that something isn't wired right. So thats going to be fun to check after putting the dash back in:spin:. Thank you for your help though guys.

Modified the surface cleaner for my power washer so it sprays up instead of down and gave my chassis a wash with Salt Away. Took the plastic undercovers off so it could hit everything. When it's dry again I'll hit everything with Fluid Film again before putting the covers back on. Hit all the power washer quick connects with Fluid Film as well. Had a lot of trouble disconnecting the hoses and found out they were still under pressure when one of theme nearly gave me a concussion. Gave the car a wash for the first time as well. The matte paint is so bad that I never bothered giving her a hand wash but I'm glad I did.

 

Also figured out the source of the pull to the right under acceleration. A pair of tires were 3/32" (inside) and 5/32" (outside). The other pair were 5/32" and 6/32". Each pair was set up diagonally from the other.

Edited April 2, 2020 by Enlight

So uh....turns out that when you start hearing a clunk in the rear and ignore it for a couple of weeks until you have time to dig in, this sometimes happens. Nuts on both side weren't tight enough and backed off, and absolutely destroyed the top hats. Thankfully I managed to salvage enough threads on the Konis to get them to bolt back up and replaced the hats, but holy crap.

 

 

Holy crap...now I am worried. I gotta check mine when I get a chance. Ever since I did the revamp to my car last year I have had a slight clunk (subtle). I have just thought it might just be that I torqued everything in the rear at full droop (which I have been meaning to fix) but maybe its that. Though my koni's and top hats are brand new when installed last year. Maybe I'll swap out the nut and lock washer with a nylock nut.

 

 

I need to get my new garage up and running so I can wrench again. My move to Mass has been driving my crazy with all my tools now all out of sorts

I would be careful with nylock nuts. They can't handle as much torque as regular nuts. I Don't know about lock washers either - OEM calls for serrated nuts like this one. I believe it's 10mm x 1.5mm but ordering from the dealer is the best bet.

Did the quarterly oil change.

 

Noticed the power steering reservoir was nearly empty, and I checked the connection on top of the pump and it's dry. Looks like it's time for a new pump.

 

SC

Did the quarterly oil change.

 

Noticed the power steering reservoir was nearly empty, and I checked the connection on top of the pump and it's dry. Looks like it's time for a new pump.

 

SC

 

Pump or is the steering rack leaking ?

How long did it take? Any tips? I have two new bearings on my shelf right now.

 

There is a DIY in that Forum for wheel bearings.

 

My Moogs in the rears have been there for about 7 years now.

RA 5% coupon code, good thru April - 130902663121745659

 

Been doing lots on both of mine. Seasonal wheel swap and oil change soon.

Rust belt people, be careful with seized bolts and grinders. The spec B helped me get 6 stitches in my left hand yesterday and a fresh tetanus shot.

I gave it a wash after putting on the summers. I really would like to get a paint job; the paint is so bad with chips and door dings. I really love my car still but it's tough to pay for a paint job that's worth more than the car.

Pump or is the steering rack leaking ?

 

It should be the pump. When they were looking for the issues with my excessive knock (loose knock sensor) the commented about all the fluid residue on the front of the pump. I hoped it was just the fluid that leaked out before I changed the o-ring as I was only able to clean the top of the pump.

 

SC

It should be the pump. When they were looking for the issues with my excessive knock (loose knock sensor) the commented about all the fluid residue on the front of the pump. I hoped it was just the fluid that leaked out before I changed the o-ring as I was only able to clean the top of the pump.

 

SC

 

You might want to pick up a can of Gunk engine cleaner and wash the that area.

The rear of my car has been sagging noticeably more than ever. I replaced the springs and it brought the rear up to a nice spot on the RR but after driving home, the LR is only slightly higher than before the springs. I can fit 2 1/2 fingers on the RR and about 1 1/2 on the LR. I'm not really sure what else to do. I bought 3/4" spacers but the bolts were going to interfere with the rubber insulator so I didnt install them. It does look like the upper control arm inner bushing is tearing, could that be the cause of my saggy woes?

How are your shocks?

 

When I switched from the OEM shocks to the KYB Excel G’s, I gained a good inch in the back, same oem wagon springs.