What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Haha, I've been waiting as patiently as possible for a PM. Thanks for the update, all good homie.

 

Idk what to do with it at this point. I go back to work today and I'm slammed so it'll get some miles regardless. Not sure I'm willing to throw $2k at it again, but we'll see what I can work out.

The shop that is doing my car said it would be 650 to rebuild my heads or a bit more. That was not including putting them back on and stuff. hell for 3k the shop I am at would set you up and have you going like new.

I will say it again, if the car ran great and you like it, then put the 2k in the car. It far better then a car payment of any kind. this is also why I have a daily driver.

what were the symptoms? did the engine knock?

Going to work on the freeway, cruising around 65-70mph. Check engine light came on, but I've been conditioned to not think too much of it since it's always P0420 from me relocating an O2 sensor.

Drove on about 10 more minutes after that on the freeway, with no audible/visible concerns. Then felt a brief loss of power, dashboard went up like a christmas tree, then a total loss of power and pulled over. Popped the hood to see the coolant expansion tank cap popped open along with a nice explosion of coolant, some of which had this weird almost congealed slimy texture to it (have no clue how this occurred? from overheat? or contamination?). Temp gauge was pinned at the top at this point. Car was allowed to cool down about an hour while the tow truck came. Was not able to start again to drive it onto the flatbed.

Analysis after getting home revealed the spring-loaded portion of the radiator cap did not seal at all to the inner lip of the radiator any more (also no clue how this happened?). But this seems a possibility to be linked to the recent slow loss of coolant I've been experiencing. Spark is still present. I can still hear the fuel pump prime for a second or two when keying ON. The car cranks, but doesn't show any attempt to start. Haven't had time to do any more investigation yet, but hopefully will over the weekend. Let me know what yall think

couldn't find the start, and didn't find the end...

I created a thread for this: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/4th-gen-aero-282756.html?p=5965965

i'm very interested in this topic and have done testing with wool tufts. Sgt.gator did a set of tests on the racewagon, too.

Doesn't the undertray create a vacuum below the car such that air is drawn through the hood scoop and through the IC? May end up drawing air in through your fender vent.

I don't know if the undertray creates a vaccum or not and hopefully someone else could chime in on that. Currently not running an undertray but that will change once the killer b's get put on.

 

If it does create a vacuum, I would think that strategic placement of the hose and the design of the vents alone would be enough to over power a slight vacuum. The vents are recessed into the fender by at least a solid half inch and I'd have a harder time imagining there is a vacuum in the engine bay strong enough to make air turn 90° into the fender when passing over it doing anything above 35 mph and overcoming Bernoulli's principle.

 

Could be wrong though, definitely not an expert in aerodynamics.

 

Part of me also just wants to make them semi-functional so no one can come up and say "nice fake fender vents, my grandpa's Buick Lucerne had some like this".

It has been my understanding that the under tray keeps air smooth under the vehicle and helps pull air through the tmic when using the hood vent with the engine cover on a stock set up. Makes sense in my head but I don't think this creates vacuum in the entire engine bay. I mean there is air getting shoved into the radiator and ac condenser so I'd think if anything, the majority of the engine bay would have minor positive pressure.

 

 

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Agree with that and there not being a vacuum throughout the entire engine bay is what I was getting at. My thoughts for placement would be either higher up near the firewall/strut towers or closer towards the front slightly behind the radiator.

 

I don't expect whatever I do to really do much in the way of reducing engine bay temps, but for the amount of effort it would take to dremel a few holes and snake a tube I figure why not give it shot. I could always start with a longer tube and perform repeated runs measuring temps with a IR thermometer and move the hose in different places to see if it does anything at all. Makes me wish I had and infrared camera to play around with.

If we wanted to really nerd out on this and someone wanted to take a whack at CAD modeling the car with some representative engine bay/undertray geometry, could do some CFD runs with various vent placements to get an idea of how they'd work out flow-wise. I do aero design/analysis (among other things) for a living, and have access to the compute cluster at work off-hours. I know you can already find LGT body models on the interwebs to get the body geometry.

 

Just sayin

I've been curious as to just how much air comes in through the scoop, front grill, and lower grill. So many people run without the under shield or engine cover that I can't imagine either really do that much.

 

No concept on the amount of effort that takes though lol. Didn't even realize you could do that.

 

 

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Depends on the level of accuracy you want, I think. The more complex the geometry that's resolved in the CAD model the trickier it'll be to get running reliably. Gotta spend some time thinking where it's OK to cut some corners to simplify stuff without losing too much resolution. Probably a few weekends worth of effort. Sorta sounds like fun, too bad I can't bring beers to work

Yea that would be real cool. I could probably chip in motivation money lol. Sounds better to give you a few bucks than try to tape yarn all over my hood, front bumper, and roof. And then do it again with Madrigs hood scoop and removing hella horns and auxiliary light placements....

 

 

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Oh lookie https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/12161269-4d73-4ae8-87c9-406706ef7c20/Subaru-Legacy-BL-GT?hl=en

I'll pull models from wherever if it means I don't have to make em. Never tried Sketchup, I'm assuming I can convert the file to a .STEP

Is that for someone with a 3D printer to make models?

 

Scotty

So the engineers at my work use sketch up some. You can print 3d models with it but I don't think it's ideal. It's mainly used as a drafting software for architecture. Most of our 3d printing is done with autocad.

 

Idk if you can do a step file but I imagine you can. As for 3d printing with it you need to save to the right file and then I think there's some finagling wall thickness and stuff. There's some walk throughs on teh interwebz.

 

If you can use that awfulwaffle, I might have enough of an understanding to adapt that one to a wagon, and an outback as well. Maybe....

 

 

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I wonder if we can just shoot an email to SOA corporate and ask them straight for the autocad file(s). BL/BP is >15 years old now, platform has been retired and any competitor did their analysis on it more than a decade ago.

The VERY ambitious idea would be to have a model for wagon and sedan with separate layers for hood, scoop, spoiler, body height, wheels, grille, front bumper, and the two different roof rails on the wagon/outback. Extra ambitious is different layers for rear bumpers and under body stuff.

 

I'm not really sure what's most important for cfd, but for initial discussion, we are really just looking at engine bay so I'd think order of importance is front bumper, grille, body height. I haven't had a chance to download that model or look for others to determine if I can chop it up.

 

Honestly though, I'm a bike mechanic not a 3d modeler, so don't get too excited here.

 

 

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Oh that would be fantastic. Think they'd do that? I'll trying drafting an email tomorrow. That's a much better base to work from I imagine.

 

 

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Certainly worth a shot. Worst they can say is no, right?

 

For CFD purposes, if we get the front end/bay right, we can rough in the rear of a wagon just to get decent boundary conditions for the part of the model that matters. I sorta doubt that the wagon body would have a major impact up by the grille/scoop, anyways, at the air speeds involved

 

Even "right" is relative - we'll often defeature the parts of models that aren't deemed to be major players in what we're looking to analyze, to knock down the computational cost. I think I agree with Nonamedude's listed priorities - front end and air entry points, body height.

You might want to get an underbody view as well. Think about the prospect of being able to bend and weld piping for an exhaust system. Want to go up to a 3 inch exhaust? This view would tell you if you can and the exact placement and bend angles. No test fitting required - just make it on a bench and have it fit exactly without having to hold up pieces against the chassis and cut and tack weld as you go along.

If this is taking off, a dedicated thread would be best.

I'm still game to run CFD. Have access to a proper compute cluster as long as I come in to work on weekends.

works for me. I bought a computer to run these before finding out buying the software doesn't confer mastery of software.

saw your post in aero thread

If anyone needs a discount on RockAuto.com this code is good through

June 14,2020 for being a rock auto customer for 6 years lol. Should be longer but lost my old email address. Cheers!

135589831103902331

Didn't want to muddy up the serious aero thread so.... in case anyone was wondering what an LGT wagon looks like going Mach 0.8, here ya go

You can see the airflow break the sound barrier as it climbs up the windshield. Only a meager 16020 pounds of drag force, only need a 26000 HP motor...

Spent 2.5 hrs removing the intake manifold. Tomorrow the oem fuel rails get replaced with IAG variants and custom fuel lines. Once removed I realized it would be super easy to install the Dom cooling mod but that would mean the car won't be back on the road Monday like I wanted. Decisions, decisions.

Scotty

Made some more (minimal) progress on breaking apart the old longblock. Got to my most favorite step of removing the cam sprockets. First one (exhaust on cyl 2/4) came off uneventfully. Wasn't so lucky on the other exhaust sprocket:

http://i.imgur.com/gKLuDCwm.jpg

Tried to see if I could find a friend with a welder to swing by, but eventually a sledge hammer, some WD40 and a 17mm socket later I was golden:

http://i.imgur.com/D7tBIiWm.jpg

Also really need new timing covers, so I have some more OEM Subaru parts to order now.

My top hats finally arrived!

So now I can start on installing a round of shocks and struts, replace both dogbones and install the right side steering knuckle.

Now to convince my wife that I really should be installing this stuff on our wedding anniversary....

My top hats finally arrived!

 

 

 

So now I can start on installing a round of shocks and struts, replace both dogbones and install the right side steering knuckle.

 

 

 

Now to convince my wife that I really should be installing this stuff on our wedding anniversary....

Scotty

Defeated by the clamps on the PCV valve. Was only able to get one of them on with my needle nosed pliers. The salt on the wound is that the old PCV was still working fine. Anyone have clic clamp pliers for sale?

Printing some new Prodrive center caps...

Trying to keep myself from hunting for 18x8 wheels by updating what I have.

I see an Ender - how do you like it?

It's an Ender 3 and I love it.

Amazing little machine, especially for it's <$200 price.

Highly recommend.

Simple to setup and use, have no issue getting consistent prints out of it.

Now to convince my wife that I really should be installing this stuff on our wedding anniversary....

Uhm, a risky move indeed...

It's an Ender 3 and I love it.

Amazing little machine, especially for it's <$200 price.

Highly recommend.

Simple to setup and use, have no issue getting consistent prints out of it.

I need to get on 3-D printing bandwagon...