What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Working up a quick Fluidampr install tool. I'm going to confirm dimensions once I have the real thing here. Figure I'll burn it out of 3/8" thick 304 stainless on our plasma machine.

 

Would you mind sharing the file once done. I'll do the same here at work.

Absolutely - should have the pulley in my hands Friday so I can finalize dimensions and PM it to you then. I plan to oversize the holes 1/16" for a little play. Not sure the exact bolt size and thread on the pulley but it looks to be 3/8"-24 (can confirm this, too on Friday). DWG file okay?

Got some time off from work and finally got some productive work done on the wagon. Installed the dual center console and swapped on a WRX lid with red stitching and began to take apart the entire rear interior of the car to install the McIntosh cargo area subwoofer bracket and the JDM STI rear strut bar.

 

Became a little side tracked in the process and decided to clean the body and lay down some sound deadening I have laying around. I think I hit that nice medium of enough material to reduce noise while not adding too much weight. Although still debating if I want to add a little more. Need a few more grommets/screws to secure the sub-woofer bracket so ordered and waiting on those to finish that and then put the strut bar and interior plastics back in.

 

 

I did similar strategic application of sound deadening to the roof while I had the roof liner out. Definitely made the car more quiet at speed. Same with the rear gate, to my surprise it has no sound insulation applied to it whatsoever.

 

Installed the Beatrush rear strut bar last night.

Haven't had a chance to drive yet, hopefully in the next few days.

I notched the foam underlying the carpet so that it's completely hidden once the install is complete.

Wasn't too hard at all, I managed to do it without removing the side panels, it's tight, but I could still get to the nuts.

Absolutely - should have the pulley in my hands Friday so I can finalize dimensions and PM it to you then. I plan to oversize the holes 1/16" for a little play. Not sure the exact bolt size and thread on the pulley but it looks to be 3/8"-24 (can confirm this, too on Friday). DWG file okay?

 

 

Fluidampr bolt thread pitch is 5/16x18. I modified the Grimmspeed tool to work when I did mine.

Glad to see you also don't trust your car and have a bunch of tools stashed in the cargo pocket in back.

I didn't need a tool to install my pulley. Do y'all have automatics and can't lock the transmission in gear? Never had an automatic...

We have to use an access hole on the tranny bellmouth and use a crow bar on the flywheel. With my Grimmspeed TMIC in the way I was just going to go the lazy route with the homemade tool. Working in an office connected to a steel shop allows me to make this for very little $. This would basically be a cheap Company 23 tool for Fluidamprs.

Yup auto. I did the pry bar through the flexplate access when I installed the lwcp. Pain in the ass to torque properly. Tool is the right way to do it. Made easy work of it. The fluidampr is somewhat press fit too so not looking forward to taking off in the future. Will definitely require a puller.

Absolutely - should have the pulley in my hands Friday so I can finalize dimensions and PM it to you then. I plan to oversize the holes 1/16" for a little play. Not sure the exact bolt size and thread on the pulley but it looks to be 3/8"-24 (can confirm this, too on Friday). DWG file okay?

 

DWG file works.

 

Thanks

Tried polishing my headlights using 3M's kit but I couldn't get the finer scratches with the included polish. Then tried applying the Lamin-X but failed miserably. Too low on patience today to continue the job so threw in the towel. I'm just going to finish the job with UV treatment and maybe leave the Lamin-X to a pro.

 

Any tips are welcome.

Edited April 29, 2020 by Enlight

Tried polishing my headlights using 3M's kit but I couldn't get the finer scratches with the included polish. Then tried applying the Lamin-X but failed miserably. Too low on patience today to continue the job so threw in the towel. I'm just going to finish the job with UV treatment and maybe leave the Lamin-X to a pro.

 

Any tips are welcome.

 

 

Here's what I did with that kit:

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5648944&postcount=612

Non-photobucket watermarked final product:

 

 

Wet sanding, hand sanding, decent cutting & polishing compound. Without a protecting covering/spray, it was ready to be done again in 2 years. Just need to find a Saturday morning to do it again.

Edited April 30, 2020 by seanyb505

Tried polishing my headlights using 3M's kit but I couldn't get the finer scratches with the included polish. Then tried applying the Lamin-X but failed miserably. Too low on patience today to continue the job so threw in the towel. I'm just going to finish the job with UV treatment and maybe leave the Lamin-X to a pro.

 

Any tips are welcome.

Lamin-x is definitely good for raising blood pressure lol. It takes some patience, a bigger water spray bottle than they give you and a blow dryer. Inpeeled it back a few times. The biggest thing is not stretching the film and distorting it. Mine had a few bubbles and areas of concern but after a few days they cleared right up. I am very happy with it now and the yellow fogs are growing on me.

 

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

Ok, maybe I'll order a sheet and cut it to the template I still have and try again. I used a drill to sand and I wonder whether that caused some scratches to be deeper than other. They say to hold the drill flat, but with the center bulbous part it's impossible to hold the drill flat while getting close to the crease. I suspect hand sanding would give more even results.

 

Did you guys apply from the center out? I started from the flat areas because the instructions said to start with the easy areas first - but I suspect that's what led to my issues. I end up with folds in the center I can't iron out with a hair dryer.

New maps came in yesterday! Next up, ball joints and anti-roll bar linkages. Edited April 30, 2020 by teranaut

Here's what I did with that kit:

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5648944&postcount=612

Non-photobucket watermarked final product:

[ATTACH]284330[/ATTACH]

 

 

Wet sanding, hand sanding, decent cutting & polishing compound. Without a protecting covering/spray, it was ready to be done again in 2 years. Just need to find a Saturday morning to do it again.

 

Lamin-x is definitely good for raising blood pressure lol. It takes some patience, a bigger water spray bottle than they give you and a blow dryer. Inpeeled it back a few times. The biggest thing is not stretching the film and distorting it. Mine had a few bubbles and areas of concern but after a few days they cleared right up. I am very happy with it now and the yellow fogs are growing on me.

 

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

 

Ok, maybe I'll order a sheet and cut it to the template I still have and try again. I used a drill to sand and I wonder whether that caused some scratches to be deeper than other. They say to hold the drill flat, but with the center bulbous part it's impossible to hold the drill flat while getting close to the crease. I suspect hand sanding would give more even results.

 

Did you guys apply from the center out? I started from the flat areas because the instructions said to start with the easy areas first - but I suspect that's what led to my issues. I end up with folds in the center I can't iron out with a hair dryer.

 

 

 

Just saying, why don't one of you start a thread for this in the DYI Forum why it can be easily found in the future ? Or is there one there already, to be honest, I have not checked.

Detailing is outside of my wheelhouse of automotive knowledge, but I do plan on writing up a thread sometime about my rust prevention regimen.

Have been data logging last couple of days and man am I impressed!!! if you are still running an OTA map please do yourself a favor and contact Dave @cyrotune.

 

Also swapped my front drivers side door with a clean replacement door I had picked up a few weeks ago, and the car looks so much better. Still need to do the rear passenger door and will probably do that tonight. (It was a 5hr job due to needing to swap the glass, lock, speaker, wiring, and mirror, meaning 2 doors needed to be disassembled and one re-assembled)

 

Not sure what to do about the VIN sticker on the front door anyone have any suggestions?

I think you can order new stickers from the dealer.

 

Edit: After researching more, you can't without going through a repair shop at which point the "repair" must be documented. This is for the protection of a future buyer.

Edited April 30, 2020 by rhino6303

I actually have an extra unopened company 23 tool if anyone wants it.

It was a 5hr job due to needing to swap the glass, lock, speaker, wiring, and mirror, meaning 2 doors needed to be disassembled and one re-assembled)

 

 

If you are going through the trouble of transferring all those internals, make sure you give the felt window guides a good cleaning while you have it out. That felt picks up an incredible amount of dirt over the years and, in my case, caught a rock that scratched my window. You will be amazed by how much dirt it releases after multiple rinses.

Have been data logging last couple of days and man am I impressed!!! if you are still running an OTA map please do yourself a favor and contact Dave @cyrotune.

 

Also swapped my front drivers side door with a clean replacement door I had picked up a few weeks ago, and the car looks so much better. Still need to do the rear passenger door and will probably do that tonight. (It was a 5hr job due to needing to swap the glass, lock, speaker, wiring, and mirror, meaning 2 doors needed to be disassembled and one re-assembled)

 

Not sure what to do about the VIN sticker on the front door anyone have any suggestions?

 

Take a picture and order a new vinyl sticker ?? Only half joking...

First of the BCA wheel bearings got here today (ebay vendor shipped them all sepratly, by diffrent shipping companyes ). Unfortnatly they are NTN USA made instead of NTN japan, but the OEM ones are also NTN USA so they probably the same. Just for $73 instead of $250 from Subaru.

 

 

The lip where the wheel centers on them is coated in some sort of high-temp paint just like the OEM's. Most of the other aftermarket options are just bear metal which can cause wheels to stick.

 

 

Now to wait for the other three to show up. And the dealership to get the rest of the parts in.

First of the BCA wheel bearings got here today (ebay vendor shipped them all sepratly, by diffrent shipping companyes ). Unfortnatly they are NTN USA made instead of NTN japan, but the OEM ones are also NTN USA so they probably the same. Just for $73 instead of $250 from Subaru.

 

 

The lip where the wheel centers on them is coated in some sort of high-temp paint just like the OEM's. Most of the other aftermarket options are just bear metal which can cause wheels to stick.

 

 

Now to wait for the other three to show up. And the dealership to get the rest of the parts in.

 

link to bearings?

link to bearings?

 

BCA Bearing WE60548 Front - Ebay Deal Link - MFN

BCA Bearing WE60998 Rear - Ebay Deal Link - MFN

Cut up and laid down one more sheet of sound deadening and finished installing the STI rear strut bar and McIntosh subwoofer bracket. I used the JDM strut bar interior piece and had to cut out a little bit of it to match the USDM interior piece. Also drilled holes in the rear quarter for easy access to adjust the Koni's and replaced the the left and right roof weatherstripping that covers the B pillars and sits atop the front and rear windows.

 

The car is basically dead silent in the rear now with no squeaks or rattles. It makes the dash rattle stand out more now and I need to add that to the list of things to do. Unfortunately the initial drive couldn't be spirited to check the change from the strut bar since the wife wanted to get some ice cream and bring the pups along as well.