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Testing Junkyard Engine - Comments/Suggestions?


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Hi all,

I am considering pulling an engine from the local junkyard to replace one with spun rod bearing, and would be going into an old (98) legacy. The requirement would be as-cheap-as-possible, with some desire to minimize effort (ie. not rebuilding, or doing head gaskets).

 

I have experience pulling engine out, so I have right tools and am somewhat confident on that part. The question is how can I test the junk yard engine before getting it mounted in the engine bay. The junk yard drains oil and coolant, and disconnects battery.

 

I propose to do a general inspection and removing plugs so I can turn engine over by hand before pulling. Also have a laptop bore-scope which I could use...

 

Once home I figure can you test compression using the starter alone (just wire directly to battery), even a 'cold' reading would give some level of confidence. Should engine be re-filled with oil for this, or maybe some direct application?

 

Anything else I could do prior to mounting?

 

 

Engine (complete with intake etc) would be $180, with a 30 day warranty. Also for additional $60 junkyard would offer a 1 year warranty, although not 100% sure what it would cover - and whether it's worth it. Obviously there's some risk that the engine is a 'bad', but if so I can I can return for credit with the yard,

 

Cheers,

Simon.

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You can test compression with a battery jumped to the starter. Put some oil in the engine first. You can look up instructions for performing a wet compression test as well.

 

I would go for it. $180 beats the taxes and registration fees on a newly acquired vehicle no matter how you look at it. Stay focused on the project and get it installed within a few days of purchase.

 

If you aren't sure about the warranty, ask the yard. Make sure everything is in writing on the receipt/bill of sale.

 

Also, If you can be picky, choose a car that wasn't in a head-on collision :)

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You can look up instructions for performing a wet compression test as well.

 

I gather that the wet test can rule out/confirm problems with cylinder wall/rings, but do our lovely H4/H6 engines have to be on end to perform this?

 

Also got a suggestion of compression testing by turning engine over by hand, obviously won't read full compression - but might be enough to highlight a problem. Compression tester is now in back of car.

 

This video also suggests a method of finding (bad) rod-knock using a screwdriver or something to push down on cylinder after it passes TDC.

 

 

Also, If you can be picky, choose a car that wasn't in a head-on collision :)

 

Unfortunately the candidates are not crumpled wrecks, probably indicates that there's a mechanical issue somewhere. Intend to walk another junkyard tomorrow to see what they have...

Cheers,

Simon.

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