mungewell Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 Hi all, I am considering pulling an engine from the local junkyard to replace one with spun rod bearing, and would be going into an old (98) legacy. The requirement would be as-cheap-as-possible, with some desire to minimize effort (ie. not rebuilding, or doing head gaskets). I have experience pulling engine out, so I have right tools and am somewhat confident on that part. The question is how can I test the junk yard engine before getting it mounted in the engine bay. The junk yard drains oil and coolant, and disconnects battery. I propose to do a general inspection and removing plugs so I can turn engine over by hand before pulling. Also have a laptop bore-scope which I could use... Once home I figure can you test compression using the starter alone (just wire directly to battery), even a 'cold' reading would give some level of confidence. Should engine be re-filled with oil for this, or maybe some direct application? Anything else I could do prior to mounting? Engine (complete with intake etc) would be $180, with a 30 day warranty. Also for additional $60 junkyard would offer a 1 year warranty, although not 100% sure what it would cover - and whether it's worth it. Obviously there's some risk that the engine is a 'bad', but if so I can I can return for credit with the yard, Cheers, Simon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 You can test compression with a battery jumped to the starter. Put some oil in the engine first. You can look up instructions for performing a wet compression test as well. I would go for it. $180 beats the taxes and registration fees on a newly acquired vehicle no matter how you look at it. Stay focused on the project and get it installed within a few days of purchase. If you aren't sure about the warranty, ask the yard. Make sure everything is in writing on the receipt/bill of sale. Also, If you can be picky, choose a car that wasn't in a head-on collision Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mungewell Posted September 14, 2015 Author Share Posted September 14, 2015 You can look up instructions for performing a wet compression test as well. I gather that the wet test can rule out/confirm problems with cylinder wall/rings, but do our lovely H4/H6 engines have to be on end to perform this? Also got a suggestion of compression testing by turning engine over by hand, obviously won't read full compression - but might be enough to highlight a problem. Compression tester is now in back of car. This video also suggests a method of finding (bad) rod-knock using a screwdriver or something to push down on cylinder after it passes TDC. Also, If you can be picky, choose a car that wasn't in a head-on collision Unfortunately the candidates are not crumpled wrecks, probably indicates that there's a mechanical issue somewhere. Intend to walk another junkyard tomorrow to see what they have... Cheers, Simon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 Have you been here ? http://www.car-part.com/ 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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