05 GT head removal procedure ?

2005 Legacy GT sedan with low compression on passenger side rear cylinder. Where can I find a video or procedure for removing the head ? I would like to attempt leaving the engine in the car if possible. Where should the compression be with 180K on engine? Head gaskets were both done ~5000 ago so, hopefully it is just a broken spring or clip ? Thanks Chuck S.

Its not just a broken spring or clip. Its a broken piston ring retainer aka ringland. What were your compression numbers (for all four cylinders). I doubt very much you will be able to get the head off with the motor still in the car.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/vacation-pix-171435.html

 

This thread should be what you need for all service related items.

Ringland.....gulp.... this shows vacation pix's ? http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/vacation-pix-171435.html

Click the link it is the service manual for your car...

You can get the head off with the engine in the car but it's a waste of time in your case. You have piston problems. Jerk the engine and be ready for a shortblock.

Thanks guys, I do have a engine lift and stand. I was just looking for a quicker route than pulling the engine. I am going by the P.O. on the low compression but, I could if there is any sense take a reading on all 4 ?

No, pull the engine. The cam gears can a be PITA to remove and you got other problems. If I recall #3 is not one the burns valves.

 

See my click here link to see what I did.

 

It's also fairly easy to pull the engine, easier then doing the head in the car, IMO.

Firstly, get a snake-cam into the sparkplug hole and confirm that the piston show physical damage at the perimeter, and maybe get a look at the cylinder wall.

 

Jerk the engine and be ready for a shortblock.

 

Isn't it possible to pull a piston out (after removing appropriate side head) without doing too much to the block? Providing you can get to the caps to release the piston pin.... with some inventive thinking you probably only need to get to the cap nearest that piston.

Simon.

If you have a engine hoist, you most likely have clue, IMO it's easier to pull the engine.

 

Mine wasn't that hard to do. see click here link.

 

Then you have all the room you need or the ability to take it somewhere and have it done.

You will spend much more time fighting to remove the head with the motor still in the car than if you just remove it to begin with. You are going to need a rebuild most likely.

When you have one head rebuilt, its smart to do both heads. If you plan to keep the car, there are other smart things to do also.

Thanks for the replies, I tried to do a compression last night (Wednesday) but did not have the adapters so, will get a Craftsman set from my neighbor and try again tonight. Interesting, that the drivers side plugs were both chalky white (scary) and both of the left side plugs were just a little on the dark side and maybe a little rich.

Hence, why you get burnt valves in #2 and #4 on a factory tune.

Better rich than lean.

Hence, why you get burnt valves in #2 and #4 on a factory tune.

Better rich than lean.

 

2 and 4 are the drivers side cylinders ? Yes, this is a stock car. Decision time.....

Rear cylinder on the passenger 0 psi even after a little Marvel mystery oil

Front on passenger 105 psi

Drivers side front 100 psi

Rear 105 psi

 

P.O. said head gaskets done at ~ 150k and head looked good.

With the above readings and 180k on odometer total rebuild or just do the heads ? B.T.W. the car did not have any noticeable smoke even at start up, P.O. said it used very little oil between oil changes (Castrol syn.) Thank you for any suggestions.

Well, the first thing is to yank the engine out and then disassemble carefully. You do have to remove the cams to remove the heads, so be ready for that as it's a pain to get the cam gears off. I have a post in my IDEA sticky above that has a very good tool to help get the cam gear bolts out. You will also need 12 pt. sockets for the head bolts (another pain) so if you don't have them, make sure you purchase them so you're able to continue.

 

Once you get the heads off, then you can really examine the pistons and ringlands. I had piston #3 on the shortblock I just built have ringland BETWEEN the rings break loose (I acquired the EJ257 shortblock and didn't have a chance to blow it up myself...LOL). Bad ringland was not noticed until the pistons were out of the bores, but fortunately, it stayed in place and didn't destroy the cylinder bore. You could have something like that too. If the bores look good, and the pistons don't show any visible signs of cracking or broken ringland, then turn your attention to the heads (of the attention of a good machine shop) and have them completely gone through. You'll need to give them the cams at the same time so they can set the lash for you.

 

If everything looks good in the block, and you have the heads reconditioned and decked, then (at least in my opinion) it's a good time to put head studs in. Really helps on the HG issues and keeps everything straight and aligned when you assemble.

 

From there, re-assemble, re-install, re-start, re-drive, re-enjoy ! ! !

JmP6889928 and to everyone else, Thank you ! Will keep you updated after dropping off at machine shop.

Yes, have them rebuild the heads, reassemble the long block put the timing belt on...hey, did I say to read my click here link ?

 

33,000 miles on my rebuild, car runs like a watch.

Engine is now out and on an engine stand so, I call a local guy who specializes in Subaru http://subarujim.com/ he promptly tells me to forget an engine rebuild it is not worth the time or cost effective. He tells me to get a short block and have the heads done. He insists it is the only way to go so, what are your thoughts and if I do go with a short block where do you recommend I order ? Thanks Again.

See my sig for the click here link.

 

Heuberger and Fredbeans, both Vendors here in the Vendor forum sell ej257 for $1645.

 

get the gasket set for your year car and do what I did.

 

 

http://heubergersubaruparts.com/parts/2013/Subaru/Impreza/WRX%20STI?siteid=215892&vehicleid=387393&section=ENGINE&group=ENGINE&subgroup=ENGINE&component=SHORT%20BLOCK

 

My local dealer gave me the same pricing at the time I got mine. So I bought all the OEM parts from them, they take good care of me.

 

Do you need a great machine shop or will subarujim be doing the heads and assembly ?

 

Oh your in PA, Call Fredbeans and see what they can do for you on parts.

See my sig for the click here link.

 

Heuberger and Fredbeans, both Vendors here in the Vendor forum sell ej257 for $1645.

 

get the gasket set for your year car and do what I did.

 

 

http://heubergersubaruparts.com/parts/2013/Subaru/Impreza/WRX%20STI?siteid=215892&vehicleid=387393&section=ENGINE&group=ENGINE&subgroup=ENGINE&component=SHORT%20BLOCK

 

My local dealer gave me the same pricing at the time I got mine. So I bought all the OEM parts from them, they take good care of me.

 

Do you need a great machine shop or will subarujim be doing the heads and assembly ?

 

Oh your in PA, Call Fredbeans and see what they can do for you on parts.

 

Thank you, that is a good price although fredbeans is 6+ hours away hopefully, they will drop ship to my home or work place ? At $1645.00 I can see where that may be the way to go. I have a local machine shop (AMS) that can do the heads.

Quite a difference.

http://heubergersubaruparts.com/parts/index.cfm?siteid=215892&searchtext=10103AC030&selyear=2005&make=SUBARU

 

SHORT BLOCK Legacy/Outback; w/Turbo 2.5L

Includes: Block, Crankshaft & Bearings, Piston & Rings, Connecting Rods & Bearings, And Rear Seal.

MSRP Core ? Online Price $2,137.14 $0.00 $1,645.60

 

http://www.fredbeansparts.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=short+block+ej25

http://www.fredbeansparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/100x/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/s/h/shortblock_2_1.jpg Subaru Legacy GT EJ255 2.5 Liter Shortblock's

 

Price: $1,975.00

You save $162.14!

 

SKU: 10103AC030*

Found the cause of no compression.... Now what, besides a complete head job ?

Did you read my link in my sig.

 

Most of what you need to do is in that. plus a valve or two.

 

Oh tighten all the gas line clamps too.

What are the things covering your TGVs? Is it just East Coast cars that have all that corrosion and chalkiness going on? Mine doesn't/didn't look like that.

 

Also, congrats on having it pulled out the right way! I had to strip mine almost all the way down in order to get things loose enough to pull out. At this point, I'm lucky I bagged and labeled (with a labelmaker) everything so that I can put the damn IM back together the right way.