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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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Installed the Samco BPV hose - went a lot smoother than I expected. Followed instructions here for mating up to the BPV on a Grimmspeed TMIC. Decided that I didn't like using the 1" long aluminum tube from Grimmspeed as a joiner (not its intended use anyways). Ended up finding this. The OCD in me wishes Grimmspeed created a special BPV hose adapter for Samco hoses but I understand it's a small group of people. Either way the purchased joiner works perfectly and gives both clamps the full area to seal.
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Any interest for used OEM calipers? I replaced all 4 chasing the intermittent shake of front driver's wheel which is still there with new OEM caliper. These are in decent shape and I rebuilt the fronts about 2-3 years ago with OEM kit. Hate to throw them away.

 

 

PM'd you about this.

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So..... I have quite a few oem parts I might have to unload due to a relocation. I normally keep all oem parts in case I ever decide to sell the car and the buyer wishes to go back to stock. I have front and rear Spec B brake calipers, oem exhaust, all 4 OEM wheels with tires, OEM top mount intercooler, a Q300 and a few more things I can't remember. Are OEM parts worth the hassle of posting and trying to sell them? I'll need them gone within the next 40 days.
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Nothing today, but I did put my rear brembos on about 10 days ago. Car looks good with brembos on front and rear. Too bad I did a super crappy job of painting them. when I have some more time/money (see july next year) i'll take them off and have them professionally done. But they still look good.
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So..... I have quite a few oem parts I might have to unload due to a relocation. I normally keep all oem parts in case I ever decide to sell the car and the buyer wishes to go back to stock. I have front and rear Spec B brake calipers, oem exhaust, all 4 OEM wheels with tires, OEM top mount intercooler, a Q300 and a few more things I can't remember. Are OEM parts worth the hassle of posting and trying to sell them? I'll need them gone within the next 40 days.

 

Unless you can get a local to come get the lot, you might as well make an ad and pull in a few dollars. Right?

 

What's the alternative? Throwing everything away?

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Unless you can get a local to come get the lot, you might as well make an ad and pull in a few dollars. Right?

 

What's the alternative? Throwing everything away?

 

That's the alternative alright.

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Spent most of the day prepping to start teaching classes next week.

And my in-laws bought a house, so I was over there ripping up carpet, pulling toilets, all sorts of fun stuff.

 

Car related, looks like most of the gang is all here for a weekend project.

 

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Going for oil pressure install in the rear galley.

- Galley adapter to 1/4npt

- Omega pressure snubber

- 150 PSI oil pressure sensor

- Also along for the ride is a plug for the clutch master damper... :-D

 

Had any one found a male plug that's similar to the TGV sensor off an '05-06?

 

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I'd much prefer to wire the end of the pressure sensor into a matching plug if possible.

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I've been chasing an overcharging issue where alternator and battery tested good at the store (off the vehicle). I pulled all power and grounds from battery and alternator. Rather than pay the oem cost for the last remaining part in the nation I had custom cables made by CE electric supply. Pictures for comparison. It's beefy for sure.

 

2 awg 12V+ to starter

2 awg battery to block ground

6 awg battery to strut tower ground

4 awg alternator 12V+ to main fuse

8 awg main fuse to battery

 

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I've been chasing an overcharging issue where alternator and battery tested good at the store (off the vehicle). I pulled all power and grounds from battery and alternator. Rather than pay the oem cost for the last remaining part in the nation I had custom cables made by CE electric supply. Pictures for comparison. It's beefy for sure.

 

2 awg 12V+ to starter

2 awg battery to block ground

6 awg battery to strut tower ground

4 awg alternator 12V+ to main fuse

8 awg main fuse to battery

 

 

You just introduced me to a very bad website :lol:

 

Do you have the lengths and terminal sizes handy for all of our cables? I'm probably going to have some made now that I've found this. And add in a second fuse box for all of my accessories. They have a pretty sweet fuse box configurator on there, and some of them can take high amperage fuses.

Edited by utc_pyro
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You just introduced me to a very bad website [emoji38]

 

Do you have the lengths and terminal sizes handy for all of our cables? I'm probably going to have some made now that I've found this. And add in a second fuse box for all of my accessories. They have a pretty sweet fuse box configurator on there, and some of them can take high amperage fuses.

Here they are.

 

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acf84a7b17adeecb11f7c7bd2366f1c2.jpg

Edited by rhino6303
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I've been chasing an overcharging issue where alternator and battery tested good at the store (off the vehicle). I pulled all power and grounds from battery and alternator. Rather than pay the oem cost for the last remaining part in the nation I had custom cables made by CE electric supply. Pictures for comparison. It's beefy for sure.

 

Well this a rabbit hole I don't need

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You probably have no problem wiring it up yourself, but another option as well that can arrive as a pigtail.

*Removed the link because it's the wrong product, link is still in quote below*

 

Edit: Yeah I screwed up after reading infosecdad's reply below. I was just about to post the link to what I think the correct product there is, but it looks like he found it just before me.

Edited by apexi
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You probably have no problem wiring it up yourself, but another option as well that can arrive as a pigtail.

https://www.iwireservices.com/product-page/tgv-sensor-plug

 

That looks like the female side that should be on the wiring harness, I’m good for that one, but definitely bookmarking iWire (can’t find my old one) as I forgot that they stocked all sorts of useful plugs. Thanks!

 

Edit: Oh nice, they have the male side as well.

https://www.iwireservices.com/product-page/tgv-sensor-receptacle

Edited by Infosecdad
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iWire does nice work. I use their DCCDPro. Speed Density Adapter harness, and fuel-pump hardwire Kit. Great customer service and quality products.
"Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder
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Trying to chase down a squeal/scrape on the left rear. Happens mostly while loading up that corner during a right turn. At one point conditions were just right such that the squeal/scrape was audible while driving straight. Next day it went back to only during right turns. Braking while turning stopped the noise. Noise is speed related - becomes more intense as speed increases.

 

At first I figured it was the brake pad squealer, as the pads were in fact getting low. Fun fact - the rear pads had no squealer. So it definitely wasn't brake pads, but I'm glad I did them anyway. Used it as an excuse to upgrade to DBA rotors and Hawk HPS pads. Changed pads, rotors, parking shoes, lubed up all slider bolts, and rebuilt the front calipers. New fluid as well. All caliper supports and mounting clips were heavily cleaned.

 

The noise has changed slightly now. It's a little more scrapey and less squealy. It seems to happen less frequently, but is still present during right turns. It seems to at least require a harder turn to be heard now.

 

Upon visual inspection last night, I wondered if it was the mounting clips. They looked to be fairly close to the rotor, but also fairly snug in their installation. I'm not sure how they could be manipulated/installed any differently to avoid contact with the rotor. I swapped top and bottom just to see. No change in noise.

 

I'm debating buying a new set of mounting clips just to see if there's any change there. They're cheap enough.

 

My fear is it's a wheel bearing, which would be frustrating as I have less than a year on the new timken rears. (Hence recent post about beefier bearings) As I think about the noise, it doesn't seem like a bearing - there's no humming, and the sound definitely changed after the brake job. I feel like a bearing would have remained the same regardless of brakes. I couldn't feel any top to bottom play in the wheel last night either.

 

Thoughts?

Edited by seanyb505
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I'll check the abs sensor. I saw those posts happening, but didn't think to check last weekend.

 

Everything went mostly well except for it taking waaay longer than anticipated. Thought I could have all four corners done in 5-6 hours. Took all weekend.

 

I did inspect the shields for incorrect bends and areas of contact, but didn't see a clear culprit area.

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Got the shortblock dropped off at the shop. If they have all the correct buckets on hand to set valve lash, I should be able to pick up on Monday. Either way I should have the assembled longblock back in my hands next week. Then it's time to install the timing belt/water pump, and dress the rest of the longblock. Gonna be fun trying to figure out where all the odds and ends ended up in the absolute travesty that is my disorganized garage :lol::spin:
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