Tehnation's Ballin on a budget rebuild!

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Most auto parts stores will have a spark plug thread tap, same thing.

 

Denzo 234-9120 is the correct front O2 have it written in my book. Also its in JmP's sticky.

So I need some fluids.... I was going to break in with regular dino oil, but my friend says I should use break in oil... anyone? discuss?

 

I was going to break in by changing oil and oil filter after 20-30 mins initial start, then again at 50, then 100, then 500, then 1k, then regular intervals... I just get in and drive... anyone have any other methods?

 

Coolant? I hear we need something special, something without something... only certain brands are recommended.... i'm not paying extra money for subaru to rebadge some sh** they got from someone else. So whatever they sell at autozone are my options!

 

Steering fluid is just atf fluid, correct?

I used Joe Gibbs break-in oil, and then Motul break-in oil because I couldn't find Gibbs... or maybe I have that backward. Your oil change plan is the same as mine but I had one at 250 as well. It was probably excessive, but I'm OK with that.

I used a good dino oil until I went to Amsoil at 2000 miles on the short block, if I recall correctly.

 

I still use Prestone anti-freeze all by itself.

 

Been topping off the PS with Lucas for years now.

I was told by my tuner that you need to do a different type of break in for the new cams and lobes. They need higher temps and friction to harden properly.

 

I put a set of used cams in, so I just followed the common break in on my build.

That should be the 15 mins at high idle, may be 1800rpm, then back to idle for a couple minutes, then change oil and filter.

yea, bc said, run it for 20 minutes and fluctuate from 1500-2500 and do not use synthetic and then follow the engine break in. Manley also said its fine to do the cam break in before seating the rings! I had contacted them both on a cc'd email a while back.

 

And Manley break in after cam break in is:

 

Ring Seating-

 

When first starting your engine to ensure proper ring seating, do not allow the engine to idle for long periods at a time. It is a good idea to mildly load the engine as soon as you can. Highway driving is a good way to properly seat the rings quickly. Do not idle the engine as idling does not break in any engine. Manley DOES NOT recommend the use of synthetic oils during break-in. After 2000-3000 miles on the street, or one night racing on the track, the rings should be adequately seated so that any oil you prefer can then be used.

 

This is straight from both horses mouths, so I am just going to follow what they say.

Edited August 13, 2019 by Tehnation

When I put in cams I set the idle to 2000 and set the idle cell in the DBW throttle table to 4 or 5%, so it would idle on its own at 2000 RPM. I wish I could remember the exact throttle percentage but I can't find the tune file now.

6 hours to get the damn motor in.... nap time...

installed my mounting brackets backwards, had to rotate them 180 degrees. But with the map el headers it was a nightmare.

 

I also overlooked my tsk3 kit, for a while we wondered why the hell the throw out bearing wouldn't fit then remembered about the tsk3 kit. i didn't have a new over sized throw out bearing on hand, just 3 stock ones...smh

 

That engine was going in that day, luckily my snout was fine and I had purchased the tsk3 for overkill when I changed clutch the first time. In the long run I plan to move to a 6 speed, so whatever.

 

My clutch slave cylinder seized up, so some hammering, greasing and bleeding set that straight.... for now. Haven't started the car, so we will see.

 

Other than that, it was the general straight forward pita.

Edited August 18, 2019 by Tehnation

So i'm inspecting and reinstalling the brakes and suspension. Rust everywhere.. My calipers looked horrendous so I ordered some off rock auto.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6539360&cc=1430733&jsn=1658

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8112600&cc=1430733&jsn=1657

 

160 for the fronts + 80 dollar core charge and 140 for the rears plus 84 dollar core charge. So $465 Plus tax and shipping($518 total for NY), but you get back $164 so $354 total.

 

Couldn't find any threads on anyone who has them, so I'll try them out. Not a bad price, oem new ones cost like 300 each from what I can see.

Edited August 19, 2019 by Tehnation

Tip, inspect the mounting surface of each caliper where the copper crush washers seal for the banjo bolts.

 

I got my calipers from my local NAPA for around that same cost.

Is there a specific reason for inspecting the mounting surface?

 

I went with the powerstop because I think they made my rotors as well. Power stop, stop tech and centric are all the same now i believe. And I like the red powder coat. But it looks like they are just rebuilt oem ones, don't know how they are performance though.

To change the endlinks do you need to have the suspension under load or not? Ramp or Jack stands?

loaded, so ramps!

 

Guess I gotta do the swaybars last.

Yep, ramps, hint do them before you put the big plastic under engine cover back on. Oh wait, that was for the bushings.

what under engine cover lol.... i was under the car so much and it was becoming a complete pita so I tossed that oiled up mess into the garbage a while ago lol.

 

Does anyone remember the order in which you have to bleed the brakes or it doesn't really matter?

Start with the furthest from the master cylinder (passenger rear) and work your way closer (driver rear, passenger front, driver front).

I have started with the right front and then right rear, left rear, left front. I've heard it really doesn't matter much with these cars. I asked the same question a while back.

 

I do tend to go around the car twice.

my hands..... why are these brake pads so damn complicated.... these stupid little metal things jesus christ....

 

Anyone know what size cotter pins we need? I can't find the ones that came with my whiteline kit so I gotta get some from the auto parts store.

 

My mufflers are just a breeding ground for tetanus lol.... letting em soak before i try and break the bolts.... got the sawzall on standby!

Most exhaust bolts just snap apart. Use any good 3/8 nut and bolts to bolt it back together. you don't need those crappy stock ones.

 

I like flange head nut and bolts for the exhaust. Most aftermarket exhaust come with good hardware.

 

Yea those brake springs can be a PITA, but most are in some way. Oh, make sure the tabs on the ends of the pads are small enough to slide in those springs, some need to be ground down a little.

The exhaust came right off, it wasn't as bad as i thought. It's in pretty decent shape, i'm wondering if i could sell it, would be a waste to toss in the garbage.

 

I got some cheap exhaust off amazon, fits pretty well for the price, 340 shipped.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBNDKT6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I just need to hammer the y pipe some to get them to line up where I want them, i don't mind putting in 1-3 hours to adjust them at that price range.

 

For the brakes thats what I ended up doing, I said screw it and just grinded them until they were easier to install. It was just for the fronts, the rears were went in with little trouble.

 

The biggest pita were the dust plates.... I installed them backwards and wasted a day trying to bolt the caliper to the knuckle, but the bolt would never grab, gave up then went to sleep, and then realized in the morning when I was fresh what was going on, the rotor couldn't move all the way back because the dust plate, so the caliper was to far away to grab the bolt. .... what a waste of time on something so simple, you have to remove the wheel bearing to flip it

Edited August 27, 2019 by Tehnation

These are part numbers for the plastic clips for the front fender liners. The dealer quoted me 50 bucks for all the clips needed for both front fenders 26 clips total.... I said just give me the part numbers and I'll get some cheap ones from china.. so far I found.

 

909140007

https://www.amazon.com/AFA-Tooling-Replacement-Subaru-90914-0007/dp/B00ZIS9AW8

 

909130067

https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Engine-Cover-Fender-90913-0067/dp/B00AZOJB2O

 

909130051

https://www.amazon.com/Swordfish-Moulding-Push-Type-Retainer-90913-0051/dp/B01FWT2S80

 

909300029

Edited August 31, 2019 by Tehnation

I'm also looking into a flex fuel kit. If I can put in whatever fuel then thats a big game changer.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cobb-flex-fuel-and-you-why-and-much-276632.html

 

https://www.cobbtuning.com/flex-fuel-for-subaru-forester-xt-and-legacy-gt/