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Anyone here done a transmission swap lately?


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Sourced a JDM transmission for my 05 lgt, going to attempt to swap it at home in my garage, is there any write ups or advice I can get?

 

 

Also is there anything I can do in there in the mean time in terms or maintenance?

 

 

Thanks!

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IMO at 80k that will not last much longer.

 

Might as well replace it while the trannys out.

 

Here's the gear ratios, https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/transmission-gear-ratios-and-final-drives-229267.html

 

Make sure things match up.

 

 

I thought someone said the other day the 5mt's are not that expensive...

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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I would agree, if you are pulling the tranny; do the clutch as well.

As Max said, need to match your JDM tranny against that lookup tables to make sure the final drive ratio matches yours. If not you need a different differential (or tranny).

 

You haven't mentioned why you are replacing your current one.

Edit: also realized you didn't say whether the JDM tranny was 5sp or 6sp...

Edited by Infosecdad
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I'm currently doing a Spec B 6MT swap into an 05 OBXT. That's a lot more involved - 6MT needs the R180 diff, hence its own driveshaft to fit the changed distance between transmission and differential, and different axles to fit the splines on the different diff. I bought a kit that contained a bunch of Spec B suspension parts and the wheel hubs and brakes, so I have changed out a LOT. There's good info in the several 6MT swap (search term!) threads here, some of which is sure to be useful even if you don't go 6MT. I am also a heavy user of the shop manuals. All I lack is getting the dual-mass flywheel off - &$#% TP50 bolts! - to install new flywheel, clutch plates and mate up the 6MT. I'm sure it will go exactly that smoothly.

 

ETA - Oh yes - the clutch that came with the car, that I'm pulling out, is a push-type. The clutch for the Spec B 6MT is pull-type. If you're changing manual transmissions, be sure to know what old and new types you have.

Edited by subisubisu
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yeah, did a 6mt about a year ago.

definitely, definitely replace the clutch.

good fluid, there's plenty of opinions on which.

check the condition of your clutch master and hose

inspect boots on CV's before you get it apart

get new seals for the CV outputs

consider doing the group N mount

pb blast things the night before

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Axles, driveshaft, starter, pitch stop and that's it. Disconnect the shift linkage from the trans, and all the electrical connectors. Bring a good chisel and hammer to separate the trans from the block if it's stuck. I've also found that heating the trans housing around the dowel pins with a torch will help it pop loose sometimes.
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The guys at the tranny shop did mine without removing the DP.

 

Popped the lower ball joints and just slide the axles out as the tranny was moving.

 

That's how the dealership does it too.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Watching your videos, I think you probably can do the swap but without a lift it is probably going to be pretty hard. Have you thought about doing it at U-Wrench?

 

If you are not already, connect with the Calgary Subaru Club on FB or Western Subaru Club and ask around if anybody can give you some tips if you get stuck on anything, or can come give you hand if something is a two person op.

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I did it on 4 heavy duty stands backed up by two jacks, but didn't love the feeling of being under that.

 

Max- was that a full removal or just a pullback for clutch?

 

While it *is* possible to take off a transmission without removing the DP but its way easier with it off, not just to remove the transmission, but also to access one of the trans bolts which is tucked behind the DP. so for 8 bolts removed on the DP you get a lot of headache and time saved IMHO. You can also check on your turbo health as a bonus.

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Full removal. Car sat on the lift for 2 weeks while the 5mt parts came in. Worn shift forks, caused the tranny to lock up in between 3rd,4th

 

 

I had the wagon sitting on the big jackstands for months back in 2011 when I had the tranny out and replaced the rear diff. Thats when I learned to make sure you don't know the TOB Fork off the pivot ball when putting the tranny in. Had to pull it back out because it wouldn't shift after a rebuild. Only to find out the fork dropped down off the ball.

 

I also had to pull the rear diff after putting it in. Bought it used, 35,000 miles on it, PO had buried the fill plug. couldn't remove it to fill it. Had to replace the rear cover.

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah a good trans jack is a must have, look forward to buying one when I get there.

 

I feel like anyone can get a good used LGT 5mt for like $500 these days, and local to you if you look hard enough.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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