Tehnation's Ballin on a budget rebuild!

Not a good picture, but you can do this without removing the slave. You can see it in the upper right corner still bolted on. I know, too late now.

 

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I also remember having to jack up the rear of the car to get the input shaft to line up.

 

I also did the installation by myself.

Did you verify the TOB fork didn't fall off the pivot ball ?

The tob for is where its supposed to be. I just assumed unbolting the slave would make things easier cause I couldn't get them to go together at first, and you know how it is after a while you just start doing random stuff. My driveway is on incline so its a bit of a pita doing work on the car.

How do you mean? Installing it by yourself is just a matter of bolting it on in my experience. Unless you mean bleeding, in which case you'll need another pair of hands, or a vacuum bleed setup or an appropriately sized speed bleeder.

 

For future reference, the slave cylinder will compress (slowly) by hand so you can just push the rod back and out of the way of the fork, or pop the rod out completely since it's a separate piece from the piston.

 

I got it to compress with a clamp, but the piston moves to fast to get it in position and not much room to work with. I think I know what I need to do now. I did think it was moving when I compressed it with my hand but maybe I just didn't give it enough time.

I've unbolted my slave and as long as it doesn't get air in it, you may not need to bleed it at all. I didn't the last two times I've had the engine or tranny out.

smh.... the clutch slave installs easily if you don't have the clutch pedal on the floor lol... I love how I make things harder on myself! I'm like why won't it move, then after like 15 minutes or so something tells me to inspect the pedal and sure enough that was what gave me such a hard time.

 

Its like no place sells full concentrate coolant anymore..... i hate 50/50, i'm like why am I paying the same price for like half the volume, no thanks! Got some prestone concentrate, it was basically my only full concentrate options, but says it works with aluminum and whatever else. I am going to start with water to make sure everything is good before I waste more coolant... Ive gone like less than 2k miles and gone through like 10+ jugs of coolant at this point... yea water 1st, then when it seems ok, i'll flush it and put in coolant.

 

Wired everything up, did my grounds, accessories etc. Just gotta install the downpipe, add some oil and coolant and its time to start, i may do a leak test on intake system. Rain and darkness caught me so tomorrow morning I should wrap this up.

 

This time around, I just unbolted the ac compressor and steering pump and shoved them to the sides so I wouldn't have to deal with refilling/recharging etc. Kept the system closed and intact, makes things a lot easier. For the AC, I took the bracket that holds the alternator and compressor out, then removed the compressor cause those 2 bottom bolts are almost impossible to get to with the bracket bolted to the motor. Then bolted the bracket back to the motor so I could use it hook up my engine hoist to remove and install the motor.

Edited July 6, 2022 by Tehnation

I've been using Prestone in both my legacy's for many years.

 

Good Luck today.

Thank you!

 

And i got everything done, and it fired right up! no hiccups thus far. Didnt run to long cause the clutch seems to not like coming back all the way, so I gotta bleed it to make sure no air is in the line.

 

How does it go you open the valve, push the pedal to the floor, close the valve then release? Or something like that?

Good to hear. I will leave the slave bleeding to the pros here...but...if it's like brakes pump and pedal to floor, open bleeder, close bleeder and pedal up.

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

anyway to bleed by urself?

anyway to bleed by urself?

You can with a mityvac or speed bleeder. It'd be faster if you can borrow a neighbor.

How do you know if your clutch slave or master is shot?? I might have broke something trying to force that piston back in with the clutch pressed to the floor.

 

So, pump the clutch and hold it down, open the bleeder to let out the fluid and air then close it, release the clutch then rinse and repeat, pump, open, bleed, close, pump, open .....

Edited July 6, 2022 by Tehnation

Yep. If the slave is shot you'll eventually (or right away) have issues getting the car in gear because foot-to-floor won't push the clutch fork far enough. Good thing is an Exedy replacement is like 20 bucks on Rock Auto.

I need to bleed it properly to make sure its the slave.

 

the mityvac on amazon is like 86 bucks and I won't get it until friday, i'm in the RIGHT NOW tantrum atm.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EYTBTM6/

 

I was like lemme see if harbor freight has anything and I will run up there right now and grab one , i found this for like 30 bucks, and I can get it now lol

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html

 

They seem similar right???

The HF one doesn't seem to have a male air connector, gotta make sure I have one to put in there.

 

For 85 dollars..... i may wait for a friend, but for 30-35 with fittings, i'm game.

Any hardware store or HF will have a selection of air fittings. I know HF has a package of fittings where the air tools are.

 

 

Oh, GREAT to hear the engine fired right up, doesn't that feel good !

Edited July 6, 2022 by Max Capacity

So i bought the pump at HF (works pretty good for 30 bucks), seems like I can't get the full pedal , it has that little gap where it pops back towards the end of the stroke. Ordered a new slave cylinder.

Checked pricing to see how much a clutch slave was and autozone had them for 25 bucks so I bought one.

 

https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/clutch-slave-cylinder

You can't win with this car pal. I give you credit....a lot of it.

 

Coming from the mechanical (cable) clutch world there is some free play built in at the top of the stroke, as in you haven't touched the pedal and the rpms are nearing the shift point so it's time to stroke the pedal and grab a gear.....about a quarter inch at the fulcrum/pivot, which equates to a bit more in the pedal.

 

I don't know what you are seeing but if the pedal remains on the floor the slave/MC has to be the culprit.

 

Let us know and good luck man. Glad to hear the engine sounded good at least. That in itself is a milestone worthy of celebration. Cheers.

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

Let's verify that when the slave is bolted on the tranny, it slides horizontal and not at a downward angle to the clutch fork ?

 

 

If the piston slides at a downward angle, the clutch fork fell off the pivot ball. If that happens, you won't get full travel on the clutch.

The fork is good, i'm sure of that. The TOB in the snout kit whatever has a metal retaining clip which locked it on the fork pretty snug. Fork doesn't have much play with those clips, the piston is straight.

 

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I seem to recall, as long as you didn't lift the slave above the Clutch MC you should be ok. Raising it above can introduce air into the line.

hmm. i tried the new slave cylinder and it can't seem to hold the pressure, the pedal will work after being pumped a few times and then after some time it goes back to crap. Starting to think its the clutch master not holding pressure.

I can't understand why the Clutch MC would now be an issue... unless you "hackstered" it up.

 

There used to be a thread here...what have you hackstered up...

I can't understand why the Clutch MC would now be an issue... unless you "hackstered" it up.

 

There used to be a thread here...what have you hackstered up...

Tehnation and Boxkita are Hicksta reincarnated, lol.