stewdogg Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 I would like to thank you GTEASER for this thread and the helpful hints that are within! I got my Eibachs and Konis installed today. It was 100 degrees with similar humidity today, so it took me a little longer than I was thinking to get it all done, but it's done. The car looks great and I will echo the sentiments of the others before me, they are awesome! I always liked how my WRX felt like it was on rails, but the ride could get on your nerves on rough roads after a longer trip. The new set up on the Legacy feels pretty close to the same amount of stuck to the road, but with a much comfier and quieter ride. I won't be driving it much tomorrow and I will be getting an alignment on Monday. I would also like to thank all the other 5th gen Legacy owners that paved the Koni highway before me!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted July 1, 2018 Author Share Posted July 1, 2018 Just built a set of front inserts for MikeyNice and shipping them out tomorrow. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan.ej255 Posted October 21, 2018 Share Posted October 21, 2018 I also have a set of donors from my legacy. They're drilled and cut ready for the inserts. If anyone wants to throw me any offer on them pm me. Hey man, are your struts still available? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rittmeister Posted October 27, 2018 Share Posted October 27, 2018 I'm planning to do this install within the next couple months. Having had no luck finding a set of donor fronts to gut for the inserts, I'm considering buying something new (though I hate the idea of destroying perfectly good new equipment). KYB GR2s are about $60 each from RockAuto, but they're also now carrying a brand called FCS which are only $40 each. I'm all about saving some cash, but I'm wondering if anyone has experience with these? Specifically, I don't want to buy them and then find out that somehow they use a narrower shock body and the inserts won't fit... Any info appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttnio Posted October 27, 2018 Share Posted October 27, 2018 sometimes it's not about saving cash,the matter of getting the job done once is more important in my opinion. Teaser, can you do an install on a 4th generation soon? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted October 27, 2018 Share Posted October 27, 2018 why not just use your existing fronts instead of hunting down donors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rittmeister Posted October 27, 2018 Share Posted October 27, 2018 why not just use your existing fronts instead of hunting down donors? 1. My life and schedule are such that it will be easier to assemble the fronts on one occaision, then do the install on the car another time. This necessitates having a spare pair to install the inserts into. 2. I prefer to keep spare OEM parts after I install upgrades/modifications, for reversibility should I so desire, or if a future buyer of the vehicle would like to have them. If I gut the ones I have, I won't have that. 3. Before anyone says "get new fronts to keep and gut the stock ones" please re-read number 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted October 27, 2018 Share Posted October 27, 2018 that's how you end up with lots of extra parts you'll never use again (other than maybe to sell to someone else who needs donors...) Most people are busy (work, kids, house stuff, etc.) - planning and effective time management eliminates the need to keep bonus parts you'll never need. Plus you can always pick up the KYBs and actually use them, rather than paying for them, destroying them, then having to reinstall old (and presumably worn) parts on the off chance you don't like them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rittmeister Posted October 28, 2018 Share Posted October 28, 2018 Look, I appreciate your thoughts and I mean no offense but this isn't remotely my first time around the block and I have established a pattern I prefer to follow. It's been successful for me, YMMV. I'm still curious if anyone can speak in any way about the FCS units; if not I'll make up my mind whether to guinea pig them myself, or go a more established route. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted October 28, 2018 Author Share Posted October 28, 2018 Look, I appreciate your thoughts and I mean no offense but this isn't remotely my first time around the block and I have established a pattern I prefer to follow. It's been successful for me, YMMV. I'm still curious if anyone can speak in any way about the FCS units; if not I'll make up my mind whether to guinea pig them myself, or go a more established route. Thanks!No one to my knowledge has used off-brand struts for donors. Tried and true, we know KYB work with Konis. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted October 28, 2018 Share Posted October 28, 2018 I used new KYB's to build my Koni's. My OEM struts were rusting from New England winters. I would not hesitate to buy another set of KYB as donors. ( I donated my OEM struts to Koni, so I don't have them anymore). Donors or new KYB your going to have extra parts unless you schedule down time to build the struts and use the existing struts in your Legacy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroVWGTi Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 Well this is a first.... The whole strut assembly on my passenger side fell apart. The top of the strut popped off. This sucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibr_adam09 Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 picture? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroVWGTi Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 Will take one, once out the car. The strut cap popped off the body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DugsSin Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 Musta been a mega pot hole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroVWGTi Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 Yup, bent the hell out of my wheel. Have to get that bent back as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroVWGTi Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 So the tube was popped open. The top end of the where the housing screws into the strut itself popped out the thread. Where the whole strut came apart. Leaked all the oil and all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 So the tube was popped open. The top end of the where the housing screws into the strut itself popped out the thread. Where the whole strut came apart. Leaked all the oil and all dang mang Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rittmeister Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 What's the current wisdom on damper stiffness settings? I'm running H&R springs on my 2.5i with the Koni WRX shocks/struts. They've been on full soft for a more-than-adequate break-in period and I'd like to turn them up slightly, just wondering about what folks are doing these days. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted March 29, 2019 Author Share Posted March 29, 2019 What's the current wisdom on damper stiffness settings? I'm running H&R springs on my 2.5i with the Koni WRX shocks/struts. They've been on full soft for a more-than-adequate break-in period and I'd like to turn them up slightly, just wondering about what folks are doing these days. Thanks! Firm the up!!!! Do it! Recommended break-in is only a couple hundred miles. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rittmeister Posted March 30, 2019 Share Posted March 30, 2019 I was really asking for recommendations on how firm to make them. I've set them to 1/3 turn from full soft and 1/4 from full soft in the rear. Curious if anyone has gone firmer than that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted March 30, 2019 Share Posted March 30, 2019 I was really asking for recommendations on how firm to make them. I've set them to 1/3 turn from full soft and 1/4 from full soft in the rear. Curious if anyone has gone firmer than that.I'm 1.5 turns up front and 1 full turn on the rears Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted March 30, 2019 Author Share Posted March 30, 2019 (edited) I used the same as Zee for my track days but 1 front and 1/2 rear for daily. Edited March 31, 2019 by GTEASER GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted April 13, 2019 Author Share Posted April 13, 2019 Bump GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted September 22, 2019 Share Posted September 22, 2019 Back to the top! Really happy with these - For the fronts, I used the Koni 8610-1447 Sport in KYB 339222/339223 bodies with 2013 Springs (20330AJ10A) and for the rears I used Koni 8010-1055 Sport shocks with 2013 springs (20380AJ10A). I also have the 26mm front swaybar (20401AJ00A) and bushings (20414AJ10A) and the 19mm STi rear swaybar (20451FG020) and bushings (20464FG020). I ran into a snag with the fronts - the shorter strut and low coil count OEM springs were preventing me from compressing things well enough to get the nut on the strut shaft - I had the traditional hooks on an acme threaded rod type (that I have been using since the mid-90's...) - ended up trying a clamshell type model from Harbor Freight (no dice) and then went to the Shankley ones off Amazon based on their design and relatively thin hooks - they worked beautifully! These are the ones I bought (I removed the safety gizmo to improve things a bit) = you can get them for $5-6 less without the safety stuff, but I wanted the case, so I splurged, I guess... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071DQJG24/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 So now I am still at stock height (which I wanted) and have dramatically reduced body roll and improved handling - anyone thinking of doing it should definitely pull the trigger! I used a hack saw and new blades to cut the donor struts, and it worked really well. I rattle canned all the exposed metal black (and ordered the silver/metal Koni stickers from Koni to complete the ensemble ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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