What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

I'll agree the 3" downpipe is where the loudness comes from. Even with the stock resonator after the Dp its not to bad.

 

For us wagon guys, I think its just better to go to exhaust shop and have something made up custom so the tips come out far enough.

 

You'll most likely spend a little less the over $1000.

 

I'm currently ruining the stock midpipe to the exhaust shop maga-flow knock off mufflers. If you want a pleasant exhaust on the highway, this is it. It's barely louder then stock cruising but has a nice tone at idle and under WOT. But no where near loud.

 

 

I cirlcled back to OEM midpipe after some experiments with 3" catbacks. Even after welding in some high flow muffler in the 3" midpipe it was still too loud for the wagon. May be with extended tips it'd be better but I didn't want to frankenstein the exhaust too much. Loved the flow the true 3" exhaust system provides with occasional popping at WOT but noise was tiring.

 

With 3"DP the stock catback gives me nice low rumble at idle and acceleration, and is completely quiet at cruising speeds. While at it I had the exhaust shop cut off Y-pipe and muffler flanges and instead weld a piece of connecting pipe over. Never have to worry about leaky flanges or gaskets again.

Perrin makes a 1-piece lockout ring/boot holder. It fixed my rattle.

 

 

Was that the rattle from reverse lockout ring on 6 speed Cobb STS? Mine is annoying as hell, at this point the only noise in the car.

Was that the rattle from reverse lockout ring on 6 speed Cobb STS? Mine is annoying as hell, at this point the only noise in the car.

 

I'm interested in this reverse lock out rattle fix as well. I have a Kart Boy 6MT STS but I have the same issue.

Wait, I'm a little confused. Do you have a 5MT with the 6MT's reverse lockout? Or is that a 6MT with a 5MT knob?

 

 

6MT with modified 5MT knob, just haven’t replaced the sticker.

 

I picked up a Perrin lock out to fix my rattle (see image) plus a Spec B reverse cable as the 07 STI cable is the wrong length.

Windage tray and Killer B oil pickup installed.

 

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I just started my build thread at:

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/bridnastys-09-rrm-spec-b-285233.html?p=6018331#post6018331

 

Here's a shameless plug of the beauty while I've been putting miles on her.

I think I located the OEM part here (link). Is the Perrin unit any beefier or do you think it will also rattle down the line?

Was that the rattle from reverse lockout ring on 6 speed Cobb STS? Mine is annoying as hell, at this point the only noise in the car.

 

That’s exactly what it was.

Windage tray and Killer B oil pickup installed.

 

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Nice and shiny....

 

 

 

Question here - what will you use to apply sealant to all surfaces that need it such as oil pan, head halfs etc? I used caulk gun with Subaru OEM sealant tube but applying a nice and even bead of sealant required quite some effort. I saw a video of how Subaru assembles the engines and sure enough they use a robotic arm that quickly applies even amount of sealant but that's not realistic for a DIYers. Wondering of there is something in between, mostly interested in something that applies steady pressure of sealant coming out of the tube.

 

 

Unless I'm over complicating things.

Did find the part on Perrin's website:

 

 

https://www.perrin.com/shop/interior-gauges/reverse-lockout-lever

 

 

Question is will it fit Cobb's STS? In theory all aftermarket STSs accept OEM reverse lockout lever with locking pin.

 

 

 

It'd be nice to get rid of that rattle for sure...

Nice and shiny....

 

 

 

Question here - what will you use to apply sealant to all surfaces that need it such as oil pan, head halfs etc? I used caulk gun with Subaru OEM sealant tube but applying a nice and even bead of sealant required quite some effort. I saw a video of how Subaru assembles the engines and sure enough they use a robotic arm that quickly applies even amount of sealant but that's not realistic for a DIYers. Wondering of there is something in between, mostly interested in something that applies steady pressure of sealant coming out of the tube.

 

 

Unless I'm over complicating things.

 

I used the permatex tube and tip. Just cut it off keeping a really small outlet and it helps control the flow and bead very well.

 

I used the Ultra Gray when building my 07 motor and haven't had any issues at all with it. I started this one with the ultra black since it is best used for oil areas. I re-sealed the breather cover since I had that off to do the ring gap and I also installed the oil pan and oil pump this evening. I just went conservative with it on the pan... Way more conservative than the previous engine I pulled.. LOL

 

 

On the pump I just did an extremely thin bead and then brushed it around to make a thin even layer. Once installed it barely squeezed out around the seams just like the factory block seal looks.

 

Something I learned from my other engine is, you should see the smallest amount squeeze out when assembled, if you see nothing then you may have gone too thin... LOL remove and reassess.

 

I will probably also use the trick I got from an old race engine builder and spray the head gaskets in a thin layer of Napa general purpose spray adhesive. I used it on my Beretta engine back in 2014 when I was using MLS gaskets for the first time on that and it hasn't had any leaks. I know the subie heads are notorious for the head oil drain back passage to start leaking, the thin spray of adhesive should help prevent that.

 

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Edited February 2, 2021 by B-BGTLimited

I know the subie heads are notorious for the head oil drain back passage to start leaking, the thin spray of adhesive should help prevent that.

 

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My understanding is that is primarily due to the paper gaskets on the na engines. It's why the turbo motors don't have that problem so much with the MLS gaskets. And if you're using arp studs on top of that.

 

 

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Unless I'm over complicating things.

 

I just put a bead of the 3M black silicone gasket maker (OEM approved substitute for the Fujibond the FSM calls for) around directly from the tube, and used my pinky to spread it cleanly around the entire perimeter of the oil pan/valve cover cages, etc. Haven't lost any sleep over it. Or an engine. Yet...

Did find the part on Perrin's website:

 

 

https://www.perrin.com/shop/interior-gauges/reverse-lockout-lever

 

 

Question is will it fit Cobb's STS? In theory all aftermarket STSs accept OEM reverse lockout lever with locking pin.

 

 

 

It'd be nice to get rid of that rattle for sure...

 

Yes I have it installed on the Cobb 6mt sts and it eliminated the rattle.

Yes I have it installed on the Cobb 6mt sts and it eliminated the rattle.

 

 

Just ordered it. Since the car needs to be jacked up, will at the same time install the STI steering knuckle I bought to (hopefully) get rid of the front wheels vibration during braking.

Just ordered it. Since the car needs to be jacked up, will at the same time install the STI steering knuckle I bought to (hopefully) get rid of the front wheels vibration during braking.

If the vibrations continue to exist, you can consider to replaced the standard bushing for Whiteline part number KCA334 - Front Control arm - lower inner rear bushing (anti-lift/caster correction). Don't take the Motorsport version (KCA334M), they are to stiff for street use.

Tried out the Yellow Chromate dip that I got today... This was a 1 min soak after plating, and on the lesser concentration side when mixing it up with distilled water.

 

This result makes me want to redo the map/ebcs bracket that's on the intake... LOL the hole deepens...

 

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Just ordered it. Since the car needs to be jacked up, will at the same time install the STI steering knuckle I bought to (hopefully) get rid of the front wheels vibration during braking.

You have investigated the rotors as an issue right? I had continuous issues with calipers seizing and overheating/warping my front rotors. It would shake like a mofo when applying the brakes.

 

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You have investigated the rotors as an issue right? I had continuous issues with calipers seizing and overheating/warping my front rotors. It would shake like a mofo when applying the brakes.

 

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Oh yeah, new rotors/pads and even brand new OEM calipers on all corners... New-ish STI LCA bushings including front ones.

 

Max has a thread on the problem and what looks like the eventual resolution. Many others reported the same problem and I believe the same permanent resolution - new steering knuckle.

 

 

I am still not sure how steering knuckle affects the *intermittent* wheel shaking under braking but at this point I am willing to give it a try.

Just ordered it. Since the car needs to be jacked up, will at the same time install the STI steering knuckle I bought to (hopefully) get rid of the front wheels vibration during braking.

 

You don’t have to jack the car up to replace the lockout ring. Not sure I follow you here.

You don’t have to jack the car up to replace the lockout ring. Not sure I follow you here.

 

 

Doesn't the instruction call for locking the reverse lockout cable on the tranny with a hex key? Not sure I want to let the cable just loose when I push the locking pin out of OEM reverse lockout.

Doesn't the instruction call for locking the reverse lockout cable on the tranny with a hex key? Not sure I want to let the cable just loose when I push the locking pin out of OEM reverse lockout.

 

Put the car in reverse when you’re working on it he lockout cable. That will keep it in the open position.

 

If it slips for any reason you can always slide the top portion of the Cobb shifter off and reset the cable. You’ll need to reclock it for your knob but it’s way easier than pissing around under the car.

Oh yeah, new rotors/pads and even brand new OEM calipers on all corners... New-ish STI LCA bushings including front ones.

 

Max has a thread on the problem and what looks like the eventual resolution. Many others reported the same problem and I believe the same permanent resolution - new steering knuckle.

 

 

I am still not sure how steering knuckle affects the *intermittent* wheel shaking under braking but at this point I am willing to give it a try.

 

 

 

Took the wagon on a longer highway earlier this week. Still on shimmy in the steering wheel. The solid STI joint works well.

Took the wagon on a longer highway earlier this week. Still on shimmy in the steering wheel. The solid STI joint works well.

 

I'll need to check this out. Is this to fix a shimmy in the steering wheel on the highway or for the warped rotor feeling while braking?

Mainly at highway speeds, about 68-70mph but I also have had a sticky right front caliper over the years, I think I'm on the 5th right front. I think the sticky caliper, over time damaged the "rubber" in the steering joint. I have mentioned that NAPA told me they had discovered a issue with their "rebuilder" seems they had issues with a number of different front brakes across different models.

 

There was a time when the wagon would pull hard to the right on the highway. So the rotors got pretty hot.

Edited February 3, 2021 by Max Capacity