Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Just replaced fluid, need pads and rotors...


CDubbs

Recommended Posts

Good morning folks,

 

I can find plenty of info for how to do each thing, but I am looking for an opinion on my situation.

 

Just had 30k done at 125k miles (2005 GT). Due to limited tools and lack of a second set of hands, I want to avoid bleeding. I have swapped pads on low mileage cars before by simply taking the cap off the brake fluid reservoir and compressing the pistons with a C clamp on the old pads.

 

I got the recall to get the brake lines checked at the dealer. Anyone have any luck convincing a dealer to throw on pads and/or rotors for cheap if they determined the lines had to be replaced?

 

I noticed there are parts to refresh calipers sold in a cheap set on FBP. Is this necessary based on the mileage and does their replacement result in a need to bleed the brakes?

 

I am running stage 2 power levels and I am looking at the StopTech Cryo and pads set from FBP. Anyone have experience with the less aggressive Centric Premium stuff?

 

Sorry for the long read and thank you for your time,

-Chris (Chicago Burbs)

No, the name has nothing to do with bragging about 20 inch wheels...
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was just looking at a thread about the brake line recall. All they have to do is look through a little plastic door at the rear of the car and spary some goop in there. The wheels don't have to be removed. Unless you have a really good prior relationship with your dealer I doubt you could convince them to do anything really cheap.

 

Also in one of the threads I was looking at AZP installs said in their experience the Centric / OEM blank routers last about 10% less than the DBa4000s. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/slotted-dba-standard-vs-centric-blanks-181036.html

 

Can I get a link to the refresh parts for the Calipers for FBP? I am not having any luck finding them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought DBA4000 for track duty. Then went to Centric Premium for next set. Didnt really notice any difference.

 

replacing pads is pretty trivial (definitive guide here) - jack up car, put on jack stands, remove tire/wheel, have a 14 & 17mm wrench, PB Blaster if you live in a rusty climate, remove caliper and hang from spring, remove pads, put in new pads (watch the tabs), use C-Clamp to squeeze piston back in, hurriedly slide caliper over new pads, put bolts back on, tighten to spec, put on wheel, lower, use brake pedal to pump brakes until they don't goto the floor.

 

Replacing calipers requires a bleed (you have to remove the brake line to change them)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Might want to look at Napa Ultrapremium Rotors, fronts are #880361. Napa has a storewide sale the second saturday of each month which drops these down to about $65 apiece. Even off sale they're quite affordable, about $85 per. I wouldn't waste your time with DBA's, etc. In my opinion not worth the money, I've tried them on the street and multiple track days and saw no increase in performance or durability. Napa is also making a slotted rotor now in the Ultrapremium line as well, I believe its the same part number as listed above preceded by two letters, can't remember which ones. They were $103 off sale. Personally, I don't think they are worth the extra $25 per rotor as well but if you're looking for a little bling maybe go with those.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good morning folks,

 

Just had 30k done at 125k miles (2005 GT). Due to limited tools and lack of a second set of hands, I want to avoid bleeding. I have swapped pads on low mileage cars before by simply taking the cap off the brake fluid reservoir and compressing the pistons with a C clamp on the old pads.

 

 

if you don't want to do a flush you might want to crack open the bleeder screws before pressing the pistons back in. that way the dirty burnt fluid is forced back up the lines, through the abs modulator. you can also suck out what's in the reservoir and refill it with fresh fluid before reinstalling the calipers and taking up the space between the new pads and rotors. you won't get all the old fluid out, but there will at least be a bit of fresh fluid around the MC seals.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies gents.

 

Regarding the dealer combine labor thing; I was thinking if the lines needed to be replaced they may have to get at the calipers.

 

Regarding the caliper refresh parts, I can't seem to find the link now. It may have just been a blip where it was mis-categorized on the website.

 

Since I had to get it done I already ordered Cryo-Stop rotors and the stoptech pads. I also got 2 OCVs. Shipped price to Chicago for the full order was about $540. Shipping rotors is pricey.

 

Thanks for the info shralp, I will probably go that route for my wife's 2004 wrx wagon.

 

Bugblatter, I will do as you suggested on the fluid.

 

Thanks again everyone.

No, the name has nothing to do with bragging about 20 inch wheels...
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use