How To: Replace/Rebuild torn CV boot and/or Axle

installed axle shaft today.

A note I would like to add for the New England guys if it hasn't been mentioned already. soak your bolts previously!

The balljoint pinch bolt sheared on me. drill swear repeat.

note :You can drill from the back side with a straight shot if you remove caliper.

In removing the balljoint I cracked the knuckle. DO not use a chisel to spread the knuckle or be very gentle. In all this horsing around the balljoint with 114k failed. Long story short, 1 balljoint, 1 knuckle, 1 end link that was also frozen later its back together. Be methodical and work slow, stuff breaks if not. hope this helps someone to avoid my situation.

This video rocks! Super easy way of changing inner boots without removing axle from wheel hub or transmission. Took me 45 min.

Skip ahead to 5:00 for the action

 

Just swapped out my torn cv boot using this procedure. Big thanks!

No problem guys, just adding to the collective knowledge!

I am about to install two axles driver and passenger side on a 2005 GT LTD car. Is there an easy way to check ahead if the car has a retaining pin I'm going to have to deal with?

 

Got axles from raxles.com. Probably spent more than I needed to hope they are good quality.

Retaining pin where? I just put back my driver and passenger side axles last night (been working on my trans). And there's no retaining pin anywhere, except these circlips at the end of each axle (trans side).

 

http://www.cyclepedia.com/manuals/online/cpp-all-balls/files/Mule610_CV_boot_116.jpg

I am about to install two axles driver and passenger side on a 2005 GT LTD car. Is there an easy way to check ahead if the car has a retaining pin I'm going to have to deal with?

 

Got axles from raxles.com. Probably spent more than I needed to hope they are good quality.

 

Just picked up a pair of those as well. There is no retaining clip, you just have to give the axles a good tug. When I did the removal, the passenger axle came out without the inner joint. In that case, you can use a tool to get wedge/leverage between the transmission and the joint housing, and lightly tap it out with a hammer.

If you're talking about the roll pin in the inner shaft, the 2005+ BL/BPs don't have these. My 98 BD GT does. You should be able to pull the shafts right out of the trans. Just careful pushing them back in that you lube them well and be careful with your axle seals that you not tear them.

 

Edit: Corrected model info

Edited October 18, 2017 by SBT

Good to hear it is just a c clip most likely. I intend to follow the OP's procedure. With luck it should all come apart and go back together without too much struggle.

 

Seen the job done on a 90 Civic. Never done this myself. I do have a good IR air wrench. Should help.

Have any of you gotten an odd wobble like noise at 45-50mph after axle rebuilds? I replaced both wheel bearings (timken), rebuilt driver side axle (from a used one since stock was shot), replaced rotors, etc. So did quite a bit of work to blame one specific part, but only axle sticks out at me

 

I'm wondering if I got the boot clamps off center enough to cause odd vibrations.

 

EDIT: Tried another axle, noise still there, must be related to something else I replaced then (thinking brakes/rotors).

 

If you're talking about the roll pin in the inner shaft, the 2005+ BL/BPs don't have these. My 98 BD GT does. You should be able to pull the shafts right out of the trans. Just careful pushing them back in that you lube them well and be careful with your axle seals that you not tear them.

 

Edit: Corrected model info

 

Both of my 05's had the c-clip on the part that goes inside trans. 2006 2.5i Outback I'm working on right now has them too.

Edited October 31, 2017 by covertrussian

EDIT:

 

Rented a 3 jaw 7 ton puller. It took that to get the axle pushed through the hub. PITA. On the other side I'm going straight to the puller not going to even mess around with trying to smack it through there.

Edited October 28, 2017 by Riptide

Having done this over the weekend. I did the driver side in about 1/4 the time it took me on the passenger side. Spent a lot of time on the passenger side goofing around trying to get the axle out of the hub. My car has 94K on it and is a 2005. C-clip axles no retainer pin.

 

Things that help:

Air tools

3 jaw puller

Someone to step on the brakes

Disconnecting the brake line brackets

 

A lift would help too but is obviously not critical. I also did not have to completely disconnect the sway bar endlink like the OP did. I backed it off to give it a little slop is all. Everything was able to move around OK with just the ball joint out of the socket.

 

Having done this twice now I would go straight to the 3 jaw puller. If in a bit of a hurry could probably finish the job on one side in 30-45 minutes.

Whats the difference between Beck Arley 103-3042 and 103-2976? Rock Auto and a thread here on Legacy GT shows 103-3042 as the correct part and every other place I have checked including auto part stores show 103-2976. I know the cups can be different and I am guessing that may be the difference. My car has the original cups with the indentations.

The Beck/Arnley 103-3042 is the boot, grease and retaining clamp for the 2008-2009 Legacy and 2007-2009 Outback.

 

B/A 103-2976 is the boot, grease and retaining clamp for a 2005-2007 Legacy and a 2005-2006 Outback

I'm sure this was posted before in this thread, but I'm going to post it again as I love changing the inner boots this way. As you don't need to remove the axle or nut. I think I might have even

 

 

I'm about to replace the passenger side inner boot as my Invidia DP cooked all the grease out of my boot. No rips in the boot and you can see the leaking around the boot end/clamp area. Changing DP as well. Cause f that.

Even the OEM down pipe will dry out the passenger side inner CV boot first. Its what makes a Subaru a Subaru. All aftermarket will do it as well. Dont blame the down pipe, its the nature of the beast. Even happens on the NA cars as the cat is closest to the passenger side inner boot (replaced one today on an 09 Legacy 2.5i).

Anyone recommend a type of grease to put on the axle teeth when replacing? Is it necessary? Edited January 19, 2018 by web94

Even the OEM down pipe will dry out the passenger side inner CV boot first. Its what makes a Subaru a Subaru. All aftermarket will do it as well. Dont blame the down pipe, its the nature of the beast. Even happens on the NA cars as the cat is closest to the passenger side inner boot (replaced one today on an 09 Legacy 2.5i).

 

I must not have explained it correctly. I have had 2 turbo Subarus and have replaced many a pass side boot. All with OEM DP. So I know exactly what you are talking about.

 

This is different. Boot isn't ripped or torn. It isn't even dry. It is a fairly new boot as well. The only place that the grease is coming out is the end of the boot where it clamps. It didn't do this just before when the OEM DP was on. First spirited drive with the new DP and it was coming out the end.

 

To be clear, I'm not saying all Invidia DPs do this. I got mine used and I'm pretty sure the cat is dead. Which causes the cat to be hotter. Since on the invidia design (and some others) the cat is like an inch from the boot, it will cook the grease and liquefy it and it leaks out around the clamp. At least this is what I have read online (other folks with this issue) and it explains my experience.

 

BTW love your tuning threads, they are helping me a lot!

The clamps come loose all the time. Small clamp on the axle shaft side to be specific. They tend to leak grease and then sling it on the down pipe, up pipe, steering rack, etc. This too is nothing new to a Subaru. The grease is always diarrhea like upon disassembly. NA, turbo all of them.

 

The cat should only be hotter is it was obstructing flow. If it was "blown out" rather than "wadded up" it should not be an issue. "Wadded up" will cause an obstruction which in turn will cause exhaust gas temp to rise. But it will also diminish your power and possibly limit your ability to climb in RPM.

 

Usually a quick visual is all you need. Hit the pipe with a rubber mallet. If it does not rattle, the cat is at least "tight" in the pipe.

 

Not saying Invidia is infallible. Just hate to see someone trash a perfectly good part due to a mis-diagnosis. I am not there to see for myself, so your judgement will be the best and the deciding factor.

For what it's worth, I just replaced mine with a whole axle from TRQ, manufacture # AM-28543735. Got it on ebay for $50.00 with a 10 year warranty. 200 miles in and no noise or complaints.

Ok so i finally have an issue w my autozone axle

Driver sd outer boot is ripped , starting to leak grease

 

Now , should i swap a new one, or just replace that outer boot

Ah decisions ....

 

Side note- i noticed that auto zone carrys a “ heavy duty” option

PN-SB 8047HD

With 27 outer spline 25 inner?

That cant be right , right?

Ours are 25/25 to my recolection , no?

Anybody know whats up here??

Thanks

Whoops i meant rock auto”

Not auto zone lol

Was gonna say just bring it back to vatozone for a free replacement. They have a lifetime warranty. If they ask, tell them its not just a torn boot, but that it "clicks" in turns too.

U aint lyin sprankles lolol

Vatozone

Its not a bad thing, it just is. I call em like I see em. PC or not.

The clamps come loose all the time. Small clamp on the axle shaft side to be specific. They tend to leak grease and then sling it on the down pipe, up pipe, steering rack, etc. This too is nothing new to a Subaru.

 

This is exactly what I saw on my LGT passenger side boot small clamp at 45,000 miles in 2013. And now in 2019 I am seeing a grease leak on the driver side boot small clamp, at 65,000 miles.