Breaking up badly, check my logs?

Hey guys glad to be back... sorta... recently when i go full throttle, or even near it and get over 5 or so psi, the car breaks up badly and goes no where. on stock tune its not nearly as noticeable but the car definitely feels a little sluggish. I've attached one of my good pulls from when i was in the process of getting an E-tune, marked "full pull 3 rev 3", and couple of logs from since I've had the problem. the newer logs may or may not be useless, and but I'm quite willing to take a few more if anyone has specific driving conditions that they think would help show the issue, or want different things to be logged. I've tried to contact Mcdowell tuning, who i got the tune from, but i don't think he's in the biz anymore since his website is down and he didn't answer any of my emails. any help is much appreciated.

Thanks, STIK

UPDATE: starting to feel similar symptoms to when i had a coil pack fail on me, hard misfires one at a time. fingers crossed thats what it is because i can get that fixed myself pretty easy. but I'm not getting any misfire codes.

full pull 3 rev 3.csv

datalog25.csv

datalog24.csv

datalog23.csv

datalog22.csv

datalog21.csv

Did you check your plugs? I had one with cracked porcelain that caused similar symptoms (ignoring the log data).

i haven't had a chance to tear into it no. but that's along the lines I'm thinking, weak spark for one reason or another. plugs should be about 30k old so that could be the case. I'll check the drivers side tonight since i know cylinder 3 has a newer coilpack & plug on it than the rest. thanks Surge

i just did a little log while i was out getting lunch, very clearly cylinder 4 is my issue, i grit my teeth and stayed in it and set off a p0304 cylinder 4 misfire, i'll post that up when i get home tonight. I think I'm going to grab plugs on the way home and slam them in tonight.

what are everyone's thoughts on just replacing all the coil packs since they have 90k on them (minus 1 of them which has about 20 on it, pretty sure its cylinder 3 but paul miller subaru is struggling to tell me)? I've also read that running a coil on a faulty plug kills the coil so maybe it better to just get some coils and chalk it up to preventative maintenance

Swap coils between cylinders 2 & 4, see if the misfire follows. If so, replace the bad coil. If not, swap injectors, then plugs. After that, it's time for a compression test. Since it's #4, there's a decent chance you're looking at a burnt exhaust valve.

No need to dog it to the point of throwing a code. Just monitor/log roughness on all cylinders at idle and revving in the driveway.

I had a similar issue in the past with cylinder 3 and 1 and took it to my mechanic.

To diagnose, we checked all the plugs and they looked good.

Then, the mechanic swapped the coil packs to see if the misfire followed to another cylinder and it did. He looked at the coil pack and noticed the seating tab was coming loose and resolved it by replacing the broken plastic. Once it was reseated, the roughness/misfires in cyl 3 went away.

At the same time, he happened to check and reseat the injectors and that seemed to help remove the cyl 1 roughness.

Just some things to think about as I also was about to buy 4 coil packs. Coil packs typically last a long time, my mechanic says he easily sees 150k on them, but ymmv.

IDK guys she looks fine to me.... Can't get one for over a week off Amazon, the dealer will probably be 2-3 days and charge me an extra $30. Anyone know who the OE supplier is? Maybe I can get one at an auto parts store.

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Coil #4 sure looks toasted. Diamond make them for Subaru. Pretty sure NGK and Diamond are related.

the dealer was the only place that could get it for me by tomorrow. but I'm pissed that i had to pay $115 for it while being told that the parts guy "is literally losing money talking to" me, was told i had to come in to prepay and had to convince him it was possible to to take my credit card number over the phone.... I hate my dealer. Are Subaru dealers this bad everywhere or just in the land of zero competition that is VT.

IDK guys she looks fine to me.... Can't get one for over a week off Amazon, the dealer will probably be 2-3 days and charge me an extra $30. Anyone know who the OE supplier is? Maybe I can get one at an auto parts store.

 

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Many dealers are unfriendly.

Normal subaru color code for 4th gen lgt is black to the back. But many people replace the end clips and dont color code them.

Have you replaced the coil pack plugs before? I see a black electrical connector for cylinder 2 where a white electrical connector should be. Is there a white electrical plug on cylinder 4?

The plugs were changed at 60K, I had 1 coil pack fail but i believe it was cylinder 3 not 2 but i contacted the dealer that did it(failed on the highway on a trip down to jersey so i din't deal with it myself) but they never got back to me to let me know which was changed, coil just got to subaru so I'll take a look at the other side when i install the new one tonight. it is possible that the black lead is just a heat shield, it does look much thicker than the other lead

He meant the plug itself. There is typically a white and black plug on each side. With the white plug to the front and black plug to the rear (firewall). But the wiring is usually such (length) that you can't reverse them anyway.

hmmm, i can't really see the plug to say if the one in the back is white or not from the picture, but I'll grab some pictures tonight and report back. to my knowledge the harness has not been messed with at all. judging by the picture tho it doesn't look like the lead going to the back coil could reach the front one.

hmmm, i can't really see the plug to say if the one in the back is white or not from the picture, but I'll grab some pictures tonight and report back. to my knowledge the harness has not been messed with at all. judging by the picture tho it doesn't look like the lead going to the back coil could reach the front one.

yeah, that was my impression from looking at it as well. I had to replace the plug on my #3 because it just disintegrated. At 180k miles, I just replaced all my coils with a set of COSMO coils as preventative maintenance.

https://www.cosmoracing.com/high-power-ignition-coils/subaru-high-power-ignition-coils/LEGACY-2005-2009-2.5L-H4-TURBO-GT-EJ255-IGNITION-COILS

yeah, that was my impression from looking at it as well. I had to replace the plug on my #3 because it just disintegrated. At 180k miles, I just replaced all my coils with a set of COSMO coils as preventative maintenance.

 

https://www.cosmoracing.com/high-power-ignition-coils/subaru-high-power-ignition-coils/LEGACY-2005-2009-2.5L-H4-TURBO-GT-EJ255-IGNITION-COILS

I saw those and it certainly crossed my mind, but i didn't want to change anything since i still plan to run the tune that i have, tho i may be in the market for a new tune in the next year or so if ever get the new daily I've been talking about for the last 3 years. fingers crossed my connectors are still in good shape and I'm not walking to the parts store tomorrow morning...

p.s. how are those SOO much cheaper than even the generic ones from the parts store?

Nvm. Got her out

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He meant the plug itself. There is typically a white and black plug on each side. With the white plug to the front and black plug to the rear (firewall). But the wiring is usually such (length) that you can't reverse them anyway.

Oh, you can. LOL. I have made decent money and a had a few laughs on that one. Another shop tried to sell a guy an entire engine because they swapped the connectors. He never went back when I showed him.

Nvm. Got her out

 

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Glad you figured it out. You have a 5th gen. I missed that the first time. You never had white and black.

That coil is toast. LOL.

Glad you figured it out. You have a 5th gen. I missed that the first time. You never had white and black.

 

 

 

That coil is toast. LOL.

5th gens harness makes it pretty tough to screw up, the back lead was maybe 4" and the cylinder 2 was probably 4 times that. and after handling them longer and getting the grim off i'm pretty sure they are the same color.

I just got it buttoned up and went on a test drive and it ran well so I'd say it was a success. it still felt a little funny and over boosted a little, 18.5 with target at 17, but i might chalk that up to how cold it was out. it certainly would have been nice to have some more extensions or flexible connections to get it done, ended up a 3/4" socket over the back of the spark plug socket was the way to go after getting it backed out half way out with an extension. looks like someone may have used anti-seize or something on the spark plug when it was installed because the threads were ugly and it resisted backing out the whole way. Checking the plug gaps was a good idea because it well was over .005 out, and a big shout out to the manual that said to turn the coil 180 when taking it out. turning it clockwise as you slip it past the frame rail to put it in makes it glide right in. I only did 1 plug because of how long it ended up taking and how easy it is to take the battery out since thats all you need to do to get starter. ill probably try to do the other 3 this weekend. thanks for all the help guys.

Pics to follow. ill post some logs tomorrow, the crap computer i have accessport manager on is to much of a pain to use right now.

Wow these are terrible pictures

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