Timing belt and clutch pricing

The GT is due for the timing belt/water pump service. When I had the '10 Outback done it was like $700 (independent mechanic). Just got a quote from a "local" Subaru dealer for $1350 . What is the average price you guys are paying? I have a few more feelers out for other shops, and I've not ruled out doing it myself, but with the move, the garage will take some time to get in order.

 

Also, the throw-out bearing still makes noise. Not sure if I should bite the bullet and get it done at the same time, or wait till it goes. I have no idea what a clutch cost to replace, and have never done it myself.

The GT is due for the timing belt/water pump service. When I had the '10 Outback done it was like $700 (independent mechanic). Just got a quote from a "local" Subaru dealer for $1350 . What is the average price you guys are paying? I have a few more feelers out for other shops, and I've not ruled out doing it myself, but with the move, the garage will take some time to get in order.

 

My dealer told me $1450 for the timing belt/when I was in for recall. I just ordered the 6 star Bernie timing belt kit and OEM water pump and it cost me just over $400. OEM is probably over $500 especially when including the coolant. It takes me about 8 hours to do. The book labor is probably in the 7 hour range.

 

Compared to the 2.5i, the turbo model has more parts in the way (charge pipe, BPV, vacuum lines on passenger side) and the water pump is more a lot more work just to get to one bolt in the back (drop the exhaust manifolds/turbo as one unit is the easiest way or drop the cat which usually involves cutting the mounting nuts off). If your car has a lot of salt driven miles and has rust you probably looking at the turbo coolant lines and turbo heatshield replacement as well.

 

Make sure if you do go to an independent shop that they do NOT put in Gates timing kits. Gates was the only aftermarket company who makes a Water pump that fits the 5th Gen GT. It is way too much work to redo. I looked into using Continental kits but by the time I bought the OEM tensioner and water pump it was only $30 less than what it would cost me for OEM pump + 6 star Bernies kit.

You have to pull the motor to do the clutch. I bet the timing belt/water pump is probably 1-1.5 hours of labor plus parts if the motor is out, since many of the same parts need to be remove for a motor pull.

Not saying I couldn't do all the work, just not sure on the desire.

 

Thankfully if I do end up doing it myself, we can deal with one car for a bit. I would have buy or borrow an engine puller and stand.

 

Also, what is recommended to replace on the clutch job?

 

If I pull the engine that FSB is getting swapped for the larger 13-14 one as well.

Edited July 9, 2021 by Falcor

I went overkill and replaced everything with new when I did my clutch, so take this list with a grain of salt: New stock exedy flywheel, flywheel bolts, solid clutch fork, billet pivot ball, and trans snout repair kit (for the throw out bearing).

 

Engine out is the best time for rear main seal, FSB, FSB bushings/lube, trans fluid drain/fill, downpipe, wastegate porting, turbo coolant lines, spark plugs, engine mount inspection, starter gear lube, engine bay cleaning, etc..... its a slippery slope.

 

If I had to pick one thing to do during the clutch job, I'd say either the clutch fork or the snout repair kit. If your bearing is already making noise, I'd make the snout kit a must.

 

 

I did what dgoodhue said for timing parts, the parts I listed above (plus FSB, spark plugs, turbo coolant lines, trans fluid and subaru coolant, and assorted exhaust gaskets), and clutch for less than 1k. Borrowed a hoist from a friend and took about 8 hours of labor by myself.

Edited July 11, 2021 by coco26

You guys are putting ideas in my head....

I went overkill and replaced everything with new when I did my clutch, so take this list with a grain of salt: New stock exedy flywheel, flywheel bolts, solid clutch fork, billet pivot ball, and trans snout repair kit (for the throw out bearing).

 

Engine out is the best time for rear main seal, FSB, FSB bushings/lube, trans fluid drain/fill, downpipe, wastegate porting, turbo coolant lines, spark plugs, engine mount inspection, starter gear lube, engine bay cleaning, etc..... its a slippery slope.

 

If I had to pick one thing to do during the clutch job, I'd say either the clutch fork or the snout repair kit. If your bearing is already making noise, I'd make the snout kit a must.

 

 

I did what dgoodhue said for timing parts, the parts I listed above (plus FSB, spark plugs, turbo coolant lines, trans fluid and subaru coolant, and assorted exhaust gaskets), and clutch for less than 1k. Borrowed a hoist from a friend and took about 8 hours of labor by myself.

 

Sorry for asking in here, but I'm having trouble finding a definitive answer. I have read in multiple places that the spring included on the TSK3 TOB should be removed prior to install if using an upgraded clutch fork. Thoughts? Thanks!

Sorry for asking in here, but I'm having trouble finding a definitive answer. I have read in multiple places that the spring included on the TSK3 TOB should be removed prior to install if using an upgraded clutch fork. Thoughts? Thanks!

 

I haven't heard of anything like that. Not sure what on the TOB an upgraded fork would affect, aside from just not breaking.

 

 

You guys are putting ideas in my head....

 

It would be the ideal time to for bigger injectors, cams, turbo........

I went overkill and replaced everything with new when I did my clutch, so take this list with a grain of salt: New stock exedy flywheel, flywheel bolts, solid clutch fork, billet pivot ball, and trans snout repair kit (for the throw out bearing).

 

Engine out is the best time for rear main seal, FSB, FSB bushings/lube, trans fluid drain/fill, downpipe, wastegate porting, turbo coolant lines, spark plugs, engine mount inspection, starter gear lube, engine bay cleaning, etc..... its a slippery slope.f.

 

should reseal the oil pan while you're in there as well. PCV valve. pop off the rocker covers and check valve clearance/replace buckets if they're worn. replace anything that looks rusty and crusty and anything weeping...if you plan on keeping the car just do all of the maintenance you can in one fell swoop while the engine's out, you'll thank yourself later.

I’m going to need to make a parts list and to do list for this job.

 

 

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good old project creep. it never ends...

Opening up a can of worms here, but what clutch is recommended for daily use? Not going to track this car, but not going to baby it all the time either.

 

Also, brand of flywheel?

I went with the Southbend stage 2 daily - FJK1001-HD-O. I only picked it because some other people here had it.

 

It feels identical to stock in my opinion. It slipped some while I was doing my stage 2 tuning, and again when I did some pulls with 4 people in the car, but otherwise has held the power no problem.

 

I got the standard Exedy flywheel from RockAuto because that's apparently OEM, but it doesn't look like those are listed anymore. Mine was in great shape and probably didn't even need to be resurfaced, but I replaced it anyway.

i went with an exedy stage 1 clutch...i'm tuned to "stage 1" with an AP and don't intend to push the car any more than that as far as power levels go, and i'm certainly not a track person, so i feel it fits my use case well. just slightly grabbier than OEM, but still nice and smooth and easy to use in traffic etc. i just resurfaced my flywheel and used it again, been just fine for the past 20k miles

Opening up a can of worms here, but what clutch is recommended for daily use? Not going to track this car, but not going to baby it all the time either.

 

Also, brand of flywheel?

 

I resurfaced my flywheel, it currently has 105k miles no issues. Will replace with OEM flywheel for the next clutch replacement. I'm also running the southbend stage 2 daily, but on "stage 1" power (266whp/327wtq). It's held up perfectly fine for the last 55k miles of daily use.

I have the stock clutch on stage 1 (custom tune, cat back exhaust which probably doesn't add much hp). It has never slipped on me and I brought my car to the track and have down a few 4000-4500rpm launches. Personally for staged 1, I would use stock or Exedy stage 1 clutch (which is what the stock clutch is anyways) If you going to do an aftermarket downpipe or later turbo, I used a better clutch than stock.

I did the Exedy Stg 1, OEM flywheel, Verus fork/pivot. Had Mach V do the work, came out to just over $1600 parts and labor. Original clutch was slipping in 5th and 6th at just around 50k in Nov last year so decided to pull the trigger. Happy with it so far, not much chatter at first, no smell, etc. There was a much different engagement point and springiness that I had to get used to, but all good now. Haven’t done the clutch damper delete. Yet.

Those of you with the Exedy clutch, is is the Stage 1 OEM or Organic?

 

Also, I don't plan on a downpipe or porting the turbo. The most I would probably do is a catback or axle back.

 

Would there be any reason I should be concerned with head gaskets? If I remember right this gen of the turbo 2.5 is fine unless you get the boost way up there.

well...i changed my clutch when i had to get the head gaskets done...i know there are a few people on here that have also had to do head gaskets, but i don't think it's as widely common as the older EJs since these engines use MLS gaskets. if the engine's already out the hard part is over for replacing them, but you'll still have to get machine work done and then that's even more project creep...turn it from a day or two to a week plus, depending on your machine shop, and then you're looking at possibly lifter buckets and extra seals and a whole can of worms.

 

i went with a stage 1 OEM from exedy

So, if the head gaskets are fine, leave them alone.

If I remember right this gen of the turbo 2.5 is fine unless you get the boost way up there.

 

This

So, if the head gaskets are fine, leave them alone.

 

exactly

Those of you with the Exedy clutch, is is the Stage 1 OEM or Organic?

 

Organic for me.

The GT is due for the timing belt/water pump service. When I had the '10 Outback done it was like $700 (independent mechanic). Just got a quote from a "local" Subaru dealer for $1350 . What is the average price you guys are paying? I have a few more feelers out for other shops, and I've not ruled out doing it myself, but with the move, the garage will take some time to get in order.

Not surprising - MSRP for subaru parts for the timing belt, tensioner, four idlers (2 big smooth, 1 small smooth, 1 cogged), water pump, and 2 gallons of coolant is $848.13 - add other common sense items (plugs, serpentine belt, thermostat, and random other little bits) and you are around $950 in parts... they can probably bang most of the job out pretty quick, but the water pump is way more of a pain on your GT than the Outback.

 

 

What did they quote for the clutch?

They were going to get back with me, never did. I need to call them back, but when they didn’t I kinda lost a bit of respect for them.

 

Bad thing is they are the closest dealer within 1 1/2 hrs.

 

 

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