What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4

Don't cheap out on the thermostat either. I've replaced multiple on Subarus and they never ever work. Just spend the extra $3 and get an OE replacement.

well, not today, but last weekend installed some VLED micro evolution extreme LEDs - I'll have to say I am pretty impressed - very uniform lighting - no hot spots, and not much light above the cutoff. Definitely more light than the phillips extreme vision bulbs I had in there. Ended up pulling the bumper/headlights to do the install - relatively painless.

 

 

What do folks recommend for LED turn signal lights? VLEDS has some nice ones, but I am not really looking to spend $150+ on a pair...

well, not today, but last weekend installed some VLED micro evolution extreme LEDs - I'll have to say I am pretty impressed - very uniform lighting - no hot spots, and not much light above the cutoff. Definitely more light than the phillips extreme vision bulbs I had in there. Ended up pulling the bumper/headlights to do the install - relatively painless.

 

 

What do folks recommend for LED turn signal lights? VLEDS has some nice ones, but I am not really looking to spend $150+ on a pair...

 

I've also been wondering about this. I've put LED bulbs everywhere in my car except for the High Beams, Low Beams, brake lights, and turn signals.

I would leave the brake lights alone. Some years have an electrical when you put them there.

I know! turn signal LEDs can also be a problem if you don't have a flasher that can handle them, as well. (the brake lights thing is weird since the center stop light is an LED - I know they sell things to prevent the CANbus from freaking out, but don't know how well they work)

 

 

The Sylvania Zevo LEDs seem to have good reviews on Amazon... at $20 a pair, I have been thinking about giving them a try.

I have LED amber turn signals with the TapTurn module to keep them from hyperflashing. Had em for 4yrs with no problems. I've also got the VLEDs V6 triton brake lights that came with an inline resistor. So far after 2 years no crazy dash lights Edited January 27, 2020 by Zee199969

Put nice bright LED H11 bulbs in the fog lights today.

 

While I was in there disabled those damn DRL's

well, not today, but last weekend installed some VLED micro evolution extreme LEDs - I'll have to say I am pretty impressed - very uniform lighting - no hot spots, and not much light above the cutoff. Definitely more light than the phillips extreme vision bulbs I had in there. Ended up pulling the bumper/headlights to do the install - relatively painless.

 

 

What do folks recommend for LED turn signal lights? VLEDS has some nice ones, but I am not really looking to spend $150+ on a pair...

 

 

 

I used these for the front turn signals:

 

 

https://www.superbrightleds.com/vehicle/2011-subaru-legacy-vehicle-led-lights?make=73&model=1076&year=2011

 

 

And these for the front side marker:

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074VGYW3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cRKlEbAW49F3Y

 

 

Wait for Humble to reply, he is the expert on LED bulbs in these cars [emoji6]

 

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I'VE BEEN SUMMONED

 

well, not today, but last weekend installed some VLED micro evolution extreme LEDs - I'll have to say I am pretty impressed - very uniform lighting - no hot spots, and not much light above the cutoff. Definitely more light than the phillips extreme vision bulbs I had in there. Ended up pulling the bumper/headlights to do the install - relatively painless.

 

 

What do folks recommend for LED turn signal lights? VLEDS has some nice ones, but I am not really looking to spend $150+ on a pair...

 

For turn signals, as nice as the Tritons are, I think they're a bit overkill for both price and performance. VLEDs has a smaller application hi-vis amber 7440/7443 bulb that will provide more than enough LED brightness for only about $60/pair here: https://www.vleds.com/shop-application/turn-signals-front/7440/7443-50-hv-amber.html

 

Same bulb will also work for the rear, but back there you also have the option of going with a Red bulb if you want to switch up the look a tad. I did that with mine a few years back and I love the way it looks. That bulb is here: https://www.vleds.com/7443-50-r.html and here is a video of my before and after with the red turn signal: https://www.instagram.com/p/BQ6CZ3BD1Uz/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

 

I've also been wondering about this. I've put LED bulbs everywhere in my car except for the High Beams, Low Beams, brake lights, and turn signals.

 

I recommend changing everything except high-beams to VLEDs. Since our DRL runs off our high-beam running at half power, there's currently no LED solution on the market that will function properly with our setup. Whenever your DRL is on, it will be the high beam at full blast.

 

I would leave the brake lights alone. Some years have an electrical when you put them there.

 

VLEDS Tritons have a plug and play resistor that 100% solves the electrical/canbus gremlins from LEDS brake lights. Reference the below posts:

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5775085&postcount=6

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5775235&postcount=13

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5778741&postcount=26

 

And this video: https://www.instagram.com/p/Bc-C7MUjngU/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

 

 

I know! turn signal LEDs can also be a problem if you don't have a flasher that can handle them, as well. (the brake lights thing is weird since the center stop light is an LED - I know they sell things to prevent the CANbus from freaking out, but don't know how well they work)

 

 

The Sylvania Zevo LEDs seem to have good reviews on Amazon... at $20 a pair, I have been thinking about giving them a try.

 

Flash cancellors are about $10. Reference this post for part and install guide: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5595966&postcount=9

 

As for brake/taillights, I believe the perfect setup for us would be VLEDs Triton V6 (standard or extreme, your choice, I have the standard) with VLR-6 resistor, and VLEDs 50R bulbs for the trunk lid lights, the same red bulb I referenced above for red read turn signals.

 

Installed sti rear stay kit kinda. Wasn’t direct fit bolt on like I was hoping but I made it work. Probably won’t make a difference but I wanted some Jdm sti bits cause I’m a nerd I guess and they were only $48 shipped. Also installed sub frame brace from newer model and led license plate bulbs

 

 

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Initial impressions: The combo of Koyorad and STI thermostat is pretty great. Ambient temps were 90F. Drove for about 15-20 min around the area. Stopped at lights, got on the freeway up to 65 mph and temps ranged from 178-185F with cruising temp pegged at 180F once the engine warmed up. Typically I'd see temps ranging from 187-201F with a cruising temp of 190F.

 

Parts list:

Koyorad radiator: VH091662

STi thermostat: 21210AA030

Samco hoses: TCS516/C

 

I would give about 8-12 weeks on the Samco hoses if anyone is interested in them. I bought mine from NoLimit Motorsport, but you can probably get them elsewhere as well.

 

The Koyorad is 100% plug and play. I followed the FSM and read up on BBPeik's install of the mishimoto rad. The Koyorad comes with the plug in the upper right corner so there's no need to buy one from the hardware shop. Stock fans bolted up perfectly. I'll do an update after a week of commuting to see if the temps have changed.

 

Nice job!

 

Could you tell me if you had any problem with clearence between Fan, hose or anything else? Can I use a stock hose? Installation is like replacing the stock rad by another stock one?

 

I see some differences between your Koyo and the stock one. There are 2 attachments points in the bottom of stock radiator that Koyo don't have (Koyo's bottom part just have points to install Fans, nothing more) .

 

Stock rad can be seen in the following post:

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/another-all-aluminum-radiator-option-5th-gen-gt-276124.html

 

I'd like to know if a lack of these 2 points is a problem with installation.

For the last 2 weeks the car was given for following maintenance works.

- valve cover gasket leaking, valve adjustment works, gaskets replacement

- fuel injectors condition check

- glow plugs replacement

- clutch kit replacement

- flywheel replacement

- turbocharger replacement

- new chip tuning

and some other gaskets, seals and other parts.

Paid ~ 2k USD for everything and "made my car great again!" ©

Nice job!

 

Could you tell me if you had any problem with clearence between Fan, hose or anything else? Can I use a stock hose? Installation is like replacing the stock rad by another stock one?

 

I see some differences between your Koyo and the stock one. There are 2 attachments points in the bottom of stock radiator that Koyo don't have (Koyo's bottom part just have points to install Fans, nothing more) .

 

Stock rad can be seen in the following post:

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/another-all-aluminum-radiator-option-5th-gen-gt-276124.html

 

I'd like to know if a lack of these 2 points is a problem with installation.

 

Thanks shi_daniel! In regards to "There are 2 attachments points in the bottom of stock radiator that Koyo don't have", are you talking about the pegs that go into the subframe of the car to hold it in? IIRC mine had those pegs both top and bottom and the radiator is held in pretty securely on my car. I added a picture for reference.

 

Also as far as clearance, everything clears with plenty of space. I do still have OEM fans and chargepipe. The upgraded silicon SAMCO radiator hoses clear just fine also.

Finally had some time to get this suretrac installed into diff I got from Bbpeik. Just need to order new seals and a breather and should be ready to go.

 

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Edited January 31, 2020 by Zee199969

I thought I was way overdue, after I change the oil in the Legacy. I realize I had another 500 miles to go. I forgot to change out the fog light bulb while It was on the lift. Edited February 4, 2020 by amusa

Rolled past 100k miles yesterday. Put on 75k of those miles myself in the last 6.5yrs. Guess I won a timing belt replacement:lol: Nothing major had to be replaced outside of normal maintenance items. Looking forward to getting another 100k with this car

Over the weekend I installed top hats. Thought it would fix this clunking noise from the driver side. I’m pulling my hairs out now. Last night I rechecked the torque on every bolt. The strut bolts, control arm bolts, ball joint, endlinks. It’s all tight af. I’m starting to think it might be something in the koni inserts or not suspension related at all. It’s an odd noise, very audible at low speeds on roads that appear smooth, but have little bumps/cracks.

 

Edit: it might be my damn engine cover

Edit again: it’s not lol

Edited February 7, 2020 by ibr_adam09

Had the windows tinted. Hadn’t done this on any previous cars. Went with 3M Color Stable “nano-ceramic hybrid” as much for heat reduction as looks. Not super dark result, which suits me. VA limits are 35% for front and 50% rear/back. $350 and 90 minutes this morning at a well-rated shop in Vienna, VA. Can’t roll windows for 3 days or so, which means I’ll be driving the truck to work since I have to pass through a security check to park.

Had the windows tinted. Hadn’t done this on any previous cars. Went with 3M Color Stable “nano-ceramic hybrid” as much for heat reduction as looks. Not super dark result, which suits me. VA limits are 35% for front and 50% rear/back. $350 and 90 minutes this morning at a well-rated shop in Vienna, VA. Can’t roll windows for 3 days or so, which means I’ll be driving the truck to work since I have to pass through a security check to park.

 

What pickup truck do you drive? I sure as hell miss mine sometimes

2012 Nissan Frontier SV 4x4 King Cab. VQ40 V6 AT. Love it. Keep it at the cabin in WV but bring it east when needed.

2012 Nissan Frontier SV 4x4 King Cab. VQ40 V6 AT. Love it. Keep it at the cabin in WV but bring it east when needed.

 

That thing will last you forever

Had the windows tinted. Hadn’t done this on any previous cars. Went with 3M Color Stable “nano-ceramic hybrid” as much for heat reduction as looks. Not super dark result, which suits me. VA limits are 35% for front and 50% rear/back. $350 and 90 minutes this morning at a well-rated shop in Vienna, VA. Can’t roll windows for 3 days or so, which means I’ll be driving the truck to work since I have to pass through a security check to park.

I've always been very happy with the 3M films - I had color stable 35% on my old WRX, and on my Legacy I have their Crystalline 40.

Had the windows tinted. Hadn’t done this on any previous cars. Went with 3M Color Stable “nano-ceramic hybrid” as much for heat reduction as looks. Not super dark result, which suits me. VA limits are 35% for front and 50% rear/back. $350 and 90 minutes this morning at a well-rated shop in Vienna, VA. Can’t roll windows for 3 days or so, which means I’ll be driving the truck to work since I have to pass through a security check to park.

 

did you actually go with the 50/35? i went with 35% all around and never had a problem in richmond. it's dark but not absurdly dark to get the police looking, if that makes sense.

Yeah, went with the max legal. When at home I’m parked outside so went with the darker shade to cut heat. Doesn’t actually look that dark. Wife’s Ascent’s factory tint looks darker to me. And I am no longer enjoying a lifestyle that would be of any interest to law enforcement if they did notice; if they are pulling me over it’s more likely going to be for how fast I’m driving. Mea culpa...

 

Some glitched Legacy. Also got a "new" Thule Atlantis