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Dual Zone Climate Control Inop


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Hello Everyone,

 

I'm new here and have just bought a 2009 2.0d RE. It has the 6 disc changer with dual zone climate control.

 

The climate control is not working, at all. nothing on the display, the buttons don't work. But if I turn the headlights on, the buttons light up, the display doesn't and the buttons don't work.

 

The car went in to my local Subaru dealer who are rubbish and don't wan't to know.

 

I bought a used climate control panel on ebay that was previously tested, and did exactly the same thing in my car.

 

Has anyone had this issue before and know what it could be? I'm desperate to have some heating!

 

Thanks.

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Back in the day late 2004 a few of us learned that loose battery terminals from the factory would cause issues with the HAVC and radio. I stumble onto it when I went to clean the cables before winter.

 

Make sure your battery terminals are clean and tight. Next would be a loose relay in the under hood fuse box (?). You could remove the relay and reinstall.

 

FWIW, a few years back the AC in both my cars began to not work great. after a few summers with the wagon doing this, after about 90 minutes of driving with the AC on, the AC would begin to blow warmer air. If would shut it off, drive for a mile, then turn it back on, the AC was cold again. Turns out to be a $6.00 relay in the under hood fuse box.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Where are you located? A forum member in your neck of the woods might be able to recommend a decent shop.

 

Our cars are getting to an age where stuff like the wiring, battery terminals, grounds, and alternator can be on there way out and cause things like this to occur. When the alternator started failing on my old Camry, I didn't even notice a couple of the things that didn't work. My seatbelt safety chime stopped going off as did the light on the dash. The driver door speaker stopped working. Both these things fixed themselves with a new alternator.

 

If you don't have a multimeter then I'd recommend one. They're cheap and pay for themselves in a few years of owning older cars, having a house, or fussing with electronics where you might want to use one.

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This might help:

 

 

I was going to try this on mine with a flickering screen, but I haven't had a problem with it in a long while, so I've just saved the bookmark for whenever I need it. It's basically just bending out the grounding tabs on back of the faceplate so they make contact again. If you try it, let us know if it works!

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