What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Got the shortblock dropped off at the shop. If they have all the correct buckets on hand to set valve lash, I should be able to pick up on Monday. Either way I should have the assembled longblock back in my hands next week. Then it's time to install the timing belt/water pump, and dress the rest of the longblock. Gonna be fun trying to figure out where all the odds and ends ended up in the absolute travesty that is my disorganized garage

FYI, shameless plug. I have a crapload of buckets now: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/lifter-bucket-exchange-thread-279743.html

Finally got the new-to-me JDM headlamps and mirrors installed. Hoping to have the leveling and power folding switches wired in this week.

Question: the passenger mirror only has up/down, or if I switch two pins around only left/right. Does anyone know the correct pin out for these? None of the posts I could find seem to match up with my mirrors.

Today: installed check valves on my Aquamist nozels. There is enough pressure delta between the two jets that it was draining at part throttle, leading to inconsistent injection. Also tuned the gauge range a bit and came to the conclusion I need to raise the boost level it kicks in at, as with “6” bars at full flow it’s off the bottom of the chart when it starts up. I can’t pull timing or fueling until I get the failsafes “safe”, so the system has been causing me to LOOSE power for the last year. But it has protected the motor from the 22psi spikes during shifts, so it has that going for it..

Also the drivers side window switch broke while at the car wash. I got it to close again with some messing with but it’s probably no safe to lower again until I swap the switch pack out.

Today: installed check valves on my Aquamist nozels. There is enough pressure delta between the two jets that it was draining at part throttle, leading to inconsistent injection. Also tuned the gauge range a bit and came to the conclusion I need to raise the boost level it kicks in at, as with “6” bars at full flow it’s off the bottom of the chart when it starts up. I can’t pull timing or fueling until I get the failsafes “safe”, so the system has been causing me to LOOSE power for the last year. But it has protected the motor from the 22psi spikes during shifts, so it has that going for it..

 

Also the drivers side window switch broke while at the car wash. I got it to close again with some messing with but it’s probably no safe to lower again until I swap the switch pack out.

I have a switch pack from the OBXT if you need it.

I have a switch pack from the OBXT if you need it.

Thanks for the offer. I have one from a junk yard car already as it got stuck once before. I just finally have motivation to swap it.

Also today: doing some pulls after installing the Aquamist check valves shows the actual AFR hitting the commanded target AFR almost dead on. This SHOULD NOT HAPPEN WITH THE SYSTEM ON as the ECU has no idea the meth injection system is there. You have to offset your open loop fueling map by the same amount your system is injection (~0.6 AFR in my case) to set the actual final fueling target you want to run.

So ether I have a fuel pressure issue (not super likely) or my MAF is reading ~5% low. It's stubbornly maxing out just under 300g/sec, so maybe there is a pre-turbo leak somewhere letting in an extra 15g/sec of air. Yay, something else to figure out.

Today, I ordered rear hub assemblies. Now that my suspension is no longer making noise all the time, I can hear all of the other crap I need to do...

Drat!

j.

So..... Whats the going rate for Spec B front and rear brake calipers?

Not a lot.

If you were't so far away I'd make an offer.

Shipping across the country has to be expensive.

So..... Whats the going rate for Spec B front and rear brake calipers?

Call a local auto parts store and ask or check their web site.

I like to buy things like this local. If you have a problem you can get a replacement in hours, not day's waiting for the UPS guy.

Not sure you read my story about the right front caliper on my wagon from my local NAPA. Took three to get a good one, they even delivered the 3rd to my driveway. 18 months later that one began to seize up. I stopped into NAPA told the I had a brake issue, he remembered me, gave me a free replacement. The other calipers are all working great, I replaced all the calipers on the Spec and wagons front at the same time. The dealer did the wagons rears when they did the brake line recall replacement.

NAPA took good care of me overall.

I also bought a bunch of brake parts for my 86 Ford F150 from them too.

After many months, the splitters are assembled. Waiting on the Amazon truck for the gasket material.

Shameless plug for the GB thread - https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/gb-pw-splitter-aluminum-278751.html

I *might* have picked up a set of almost new DW 740s for a decent price.

According to the flow sheet, they look more like 790s

Once I can get DW to send back my two stock sets that I sent for testing, I'll put them in the classifieds. I send off eight stock injectors and asked for two sets of four, they said they were so close to each other that I could make a set of eight with them.

He wants to offload his old calipers.

Oh, never mind then...

There's a reason auto parts stores sell reman's.

Yesterday I noticed the car was running lean up top. A few weeks ago I cleaned and refreshed the MAF electrical connections, and even just plugging/unplugging the maf caused covertrussian's scaling to change. So I went out tonight and did some quick MAF scaling checking.

Yep, about a 4% error up top just as expected... I'll apply 65% of the correction factor above ~4 v and try it again. This put the number more in line with what I was expecting.

Also looking at the logs there is an odd leaning out around 5600 RPM. From there MAF stays flat, but it richen back up by redline. So the Grimmspeed intake may have some sort or resonance in this range. Ideally one would fix this with the MAF-MAP compensation table, but in the early cars this maxes out at 3600RPM. Thus one can only fix the fueling error using the per cylinder injector comp tables and have to live with the timing error. It's only 1.5% error, but annoying none the less. I added 0.008 fuel target offset to the last two columns in the 5600 RPM rows on all cylinders so we'll see if that helps.

So..... Whats the going rate for Spec B front and rear brake calipers?

Probably nothing. My best guess would be 30-40 for someone who needs a core for reman unit and somehow does not have old OEM one, or someone doing conversion from NA/OBXT brakes to LGT brakes. That leaves shipping them out of picture unless shipping is almost free.

I will keep mine properly sealed/boxed until either someone needs them locally, or good trade comes, or I get tired and throw them away. Shame really but such is life.

I would want them to rebuild and eliminate potential down time from unforseen obstacles.

I would possibly pay shipping if someone were throwing them away.

Yeah no immediate plans to throw them away. I still have some storage space left in the garage, will seal them and put away until the above mentioned occurs. I really replaced them chasing sporadic front wheel shake under braking which new OEM calipers didn't cure anyway, so these old ones should be fine.

I still have OEM suspension and OEM DP stored as well.

I would want them to rebuild and eliminate potential down time from unforseen obstacles.

 

I would possibly pay shipping if someone were throwing them away.

Perhaps I should keep them. I am currently on Stoptech both front and rear BBK. I don't plan on ever going back to stock but if I ever needed to send out the stoptechs for service it might be worthwhile to keep the OEM brakes.

Thanks for the help everyone.

Got the power folding switch wired in! Also found out why I only have one direction of adjustment on the passenger side. One the pins in the mirror joystick was missing :womp: luckily the JDM switch had everything.

Now it’s off to get a new(ish) 5EAT put in.

I sent off five COSMO coils for them to test as part of my post-mortem

I was surprised today when they contacted me to let me know that 3 of 5 had failed.

I’m pretty sure the sixth (that I didn’t find before shipping) had probably failed.

If it did or didn’t, that puts me at a 50-66% failure rate.

Two of them that failed did in 7500 miles.

That’s just crazy.

I’ve asked them if they have any insight into why such a high failure rate with mine.

Will pass on any info I learn.

Well that makes me want to order the NKGs you found and sell mine on NASIOC before they have issues. That’s a crazy high failure rate!

Were they all hard fails or were they still partially working?

Well that makes me want to order the NKGs you found and sell mine on NASIOC before they have issues. That’s a crazy high failure rate!

 

Were they all hard fails or were they still partially working?

I'm trying to get more info from them about what state they are in and what they think might have happened. I know they had degraded to the point of almost constant misfires, not sure if they were out of sync or just didn't fire.

They are offering to replace two of them under warranty and send back the working two for a set of four; but I'm not totally sure I want any of them back.

I'm trying to get more info from them about what state they are in and what they think might have happened. I know they had degraded to the point of almost constant misfires, not sure if they were out of sync or just didn't fire.

 

They are offering to replace two of them under warranty and send back the working two for a set of four; but I'm not totally sure I want any of them back.

Was there a particular reason other than cost that lead you to use anything other than OEM? I personally would be afraid to run them, especially if they can't determine with certainty why they failed in the first place.