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Koni Shock/Strut & Epic Engineering Spring Install


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As I get older, I get less motivated and would probably allow Rick to work on my own car funds allowing. I hear he is so good you have to bring Porsche money to get your Subie worked on.

 

Keep in mind that the last mechanic to touch any of my Subies (my 08 Spec B) had me so infuriated I opened my own Subaru shop to give locals a competent option.

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Jeremy and Rick have helped me out a number of times back in the day. I'm so glad Mike open his own business and is a trusted Vendor on here.

 

I still recommend him for parts and help. I have bought a lot of parts from Rick too. While I'm at it, Mike at AZPinstalls.com still sells parts too.

 

I enjoy the Koni's & Epic springs Mike, aka m sprank, got for me years ago every time I drive my wagon.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 3 months later...

Edit: Okay after doing a little searching, I think I have this right.

 

for my 01 Legacy Gt; I would need the following for this to work.

 

* 02-07 WRX Front Struts

* Compatible Koni Inserts for front struts

* Rear Koni strut for 4th Gen Legacy Sedan

 

Is this correct, and am I missing anything else?

 

What top hats do I use?

What car model springs do i use?

Can I use aftermarket 3 gen legacy springs?

Edited by Supreme_X
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Edit: Okay after doing a little searching, I think I have this right.

 

for my 01 Legacy Gt; I would need the following for this to work.

 

* 02-07 WRX Front Struts

* Compatible Koni Inserts for front struts

* Rear Koni strut for 4th Gen Legacy Sedan

 

Is this correct, and am I missing anything else?

 

What top hats do I use?

What car model springs do i use?

Can I use aftermarket 3 gen legacy springs?

 

Wow, that's an interesting question. Have you figured it out yet ?

 

m sprank may be able to help you if you contact him.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 5 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
19....

 

 

20. Install the lower spring seat onto the shock. It is common for people to install this upside down, so make sure the seat is oriented as in the picture below. Go ahead and install the dust cover while you are at it. The rear dust cover needs to be "forced" onto it's mounting boss on the shock as it is a very tight fit.

 

For anyone who might be, a little challenged, like myself, the photo is to indicate the 'cup' part of the rear lower spring mounts are supposed to face down, not up - as opposed to worrying that the angle bit might be the wrong way around.

 

If you mess it up and face the 'cup' up, your springs will be very hard to compress enough to fit on the strut, and when you finally get done and are happy 'everything is right' and lowering the car, you'll notice the car is about 1.5-2" too high in the rear.

 

ask me how I know

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  • 2 weeks later...

So from what I've been able to read on the internet, and _now_ I kind of understand the crappy Ikea-like 'instructions' that came with my Konis - it sounds like you have to take the rear struts off and totally compress the rod in order to adjust them?

 

I've tried using the knob that come with the front Koni tubes to adjust the rears, and it _seems_ like they're adjusting, or at least the adjustment tab is spinning around appx 1-1.5 turns.

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So from what I've been able to read on the internet, and _now_ I kind of understand the crappy Ikea-like 'instructions' that came with my Konis - it sounds like you have to take the rear struts off and totally compress the rod in order to adjust them?

 

I've tried using the knob that come with the front Koni tubes to adjust the rears, and it _seems_ like they're adjusting, or at least the adjustment tab is spinning around appx 1-1.5 turns.

 

I don’t believe so, I know this to be the case on other vehicles such as the Volvo turbo bricks but on ours we seem to have on the fly adjustment.

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So from what I've been able to read on the internet, and _now_ I kind of understand the crappy Ikea-like 'instructions' that came with my Konis - it sounds like you have to take the rear struts off and totally compress the rod in order to adjust them?

 

I've tried using the knob that come with the front Koni tubes to adjust the rears, and it _seems_ like they're adjusting, or at least the adjustment tab is spinning around appx 1-1.5 turns.

 

On our cars you use the knob on all 4 to adjust. Should be 2 full turns from full soft to full hatd. Certain other Konis need the rod compressed to adjust, but not Subaru fitment Konis.

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  • 1 year later...

hey so i have the koni's assembled with swift springs for the rear. I just finished painting the front shock housings, and am getting ready to assemble the fronts. I was reading through the directions and noticed that my front koni's came with a spacer of sorts. I do not see that spacer (like a super thick washer (about 10mm thick) fits on the stepped portion of the shock where the top spring perch goes).

 

Just wondering what the order of operation is or if the spacer washer is not needed (kind of like the cylindrical shim for the insert to front shock housing).

 

Sorry if this has been asked, but i am super busy right now and don't have time to search through this whole thread. If it has been asked already could someone please point me there?

 

Thank you

Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing

Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread

Steering Rack Rebuild

 

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Thank you,

 

 

I think i was able to figure it out just trying to put it together. I am attaching pictures to better help explain what I am questioning the use of

 

 

It is the silver spacer looking thing next to the shock in one picture and slipped on it in the other

IMG_8420.thumb.jpg.0c98ac032c693c739d15fbdaaa33e316.jpg

IMG_8419.thumb.jpg.ef8f435c198deb393e97570e481d5a22.jpg

Edited by jaylew

Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing

Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread

Steering Rack Rebuild

 

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Sets the depth that the shaft can go into the top hat. Basically an adapter for top hats of different thickness. You will use the adapter. Without it the top hat would not be seated to the shaft.

 

+1

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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  • 1 year later...
does anyone know on a brand new strut, if drilling the hole and releasing the oil will create an unsafe situation? I assume nothing will be a missile able to take off someones head? No springs installed. Just a bare brand new kyb strut is what i have.
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That is the first step in cutting open the donor struts for Koni struts. I haven't done mine yet, but from the video you just clamp it in a vise upside down and drill a small hole to release the gas then drain the fluid.
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That is the first step in cutting open the donor struts for Koni struts. I haven't done mine yet, but from the video you just clamp it in a vise upside down and drill a small hole to release the gas then drain the fluid.
I see....pardon me ignorance. Good luck [emoji106].

 

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

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He's releasing the oil because he's using the brand new KYB as a donor for the Koni insert. Yeah, you can drill a hole in the bottom first on a brand new one. I usually cut mine first, but drilling won't make it grenade.
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